Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

tried a new shirtmaker

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I was looking at some POW, found it too powerfull and ordered a Donegal in a gray tone I can't even remember. I think elite houndstooth would have been a good choice instead.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
he told us that in the old days when there were tons of young boys working at the sartorias they cut suits for an average guy from 2.3 meters. telling that it would take an apprentice a full (italian) working day for this job because you needed every cm of cloth.
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That would be a child like figure, just the average, post war Neapolitan guy. 96 cm (37")chest and 1,60 m (5'3") "tall"! Cut without vents and with small inlays. Maybe that's why the Neapolitan jacket is a bit shorter.
 
Scherensammler said:
That would be a child like figure, just the average, post war Neapolitan guy. 96 cm (37")chest and 1,60 m (5'3") "tall"! Cut without vents and with small inlays. Maybe that's why the Neapolitan jacket is a bit shorter.
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he was talking about the 60-70s actually. average being 170-180 cm of height of normal build. told us his father was 185 and quite big and he needed 2.5 meters for a suit. indeed inlays most likely small. we didnt discuss vent or ventless but the typical neapolitan jacket has two vents. for many decades. our discussion also didnt touch micromanagement level as to precise jacket length
 
Scherensammler said:
That would be a child like figure, just the average, post war Neapolitan guy. 96 cm (37")chest and 1,60 m (5'3") "tall"! Cut without vents and with small inlays. Maybe that's why the Neapolitan jacket is a bit shorter.
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My tailor has made me a suit with pleats, chest drape , cuffs and all other normal features from 2.7 m and I am 5'10 with a large chest. I imagine certain compromises were made but none that are visible to a normal person.

Perhaps it is possible that there are things about the trade you do not know or understand. Certainly a world were children started sewing at age 7 in a community were all were tailors is different from your world and probably it's quite a different craft all together.
 
It could be very well true, I tried two trousermakers:
a) Younger generation, they needed 2m of cloth, though I'm very tall with long legs and I wanted double pleats, cuffs and high rise, however they said that unfortunately they had some waste which could be recuperated had I ordered a full suit;
b) Old master, for the same style he only needed 1.4m.
 
WildBlue said:
It could be very well true, I tried two trousermakers:
a) Younger generation, they needed 2m of cloth, though I'm very tall with long legs and I wanted double pleats, cuffs and high rise, however they said that unfortunately they had some waste which could be recuperated had I ordered a full suit;
b) Old master, for the same style he only needed 1.4m.
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2m for pants are insane
 
Rambo said:
out of curiosity, what do you think those would have been? if the jacket fits, and there's no compromises in length, what could have been subtracted?
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No or little inlays (literally no cloth to let out pants at any part), fake cuffs, less cloth on inside of jacket (lining closer to the lapels if that makes sense) and certainly other things that I don't understand or see.
 
Old German calculations for a 3 piece suit:

img475-Stoffverbrauch_zpstci8q2n9.jpg~original


From an Italian cutting manual from the 1960s:

Height%20of%20Italian%20men%20in%20the%201960s_zpsittb2yki.jpg~original


No conversion for those who do not recognize the supremacy of the metric system!
 
ConchitaWurst said:
please leave these difficult calculations to Scherensammler Scherensammler . pay attention. you first need chest (inches) to make guesstimates like this
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I just assumed that a slender Euro man with a top top old tailorz on Napoli would need this much as my ex-HongKongIndian™ Tailor was happy with 2m for my big chest and bigger belly. Of course I am a midget. My current EyetieEnglisher™ Prefers a touch more
 
Thruth said:
I just assumed that a slender Euro man with a top top old tailorz on Napoli would need this much as my ex-HongKongIndian™ Tailor was happy with 2m for my big chest and bigger belly. Of course I am a midget. My current EyetieEnglisher™ Prefers a touch more
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It also depends on the style: English tailors leave a bigger inlay for the vent and the side seam, so plenty to let out in future years. Also slightly longer jacket length and higher rise in the trousers and trouser hem that actually touches the shoe.
 
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