Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Scherensammler said:
It also depends on the style: English tailors leave a bigger inlay for the vent and the side seam, so plenty to let out in future years. Also slightly longer jacket length and higher rise in the trousers and trouser hem that actually touches the shoe.
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So how is that old and dusty book of lies called you are quoting from?
 
Bonus for iGents, Illuminati and fashionistas:

CCF28042017_00000_zpstrmiwjlb.jpg~original


Note the way to calculate the necessary cloth (this tailor is MegaTopTop™, he can make a suit from only 167 cm):

Lagenbild%20Ciraci_zpsiuzmdouh.jpg~original
 
ConchitaWurst said:
what side if menswear are you actually into? just curious
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you'd be surprised to hear me say it but i'm very interested in the non-casual side and the rest of the business. just because i don't wear them doesn't mean i can't admire them from afar. one day.
 
Rambo said:
you'd be surprised to hear me say it but i'm very interested in the non-casual side and the rest of the business. just because i don't wear them doesn't mean i can't admire them from afar. one day.
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Just curious, but why don't you wear them?
 
Last of the 3 warm weather giacas. Quarter-lined, open weave wool.

Just need to get it pressed.

IMG_7850.webp
 
doghouse said:
Quarter lined plus patch pockets equals TopTopElite™
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Only the TopTopElite™ will know that! So it's kind of "It takes one to know one". Very nice.
It's a small club and you're in it! :applause:
One question though: How do you spot posers, that are not TopTopElite™?
 
Scherensammler said:
Only the TopTopElite™ will know that! So it's kind of "It takes one to know one". Very nice.
It's a small club and you're in it! :applause:
One question though: How do you spot posers, that are not TopTopElite™?
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We can't divulge those secrets.
 
Scherensammler said:
Only the TopTopElite™ will know that! So it's kind of "It takes one to know one". Very nice.
It's a small club and you're in it! :applause:
One question though: How do you spot posers, that are not TopTopElite™?
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they typically have blogs
 
Hey guys. Not sure if this is the correct place to post a question but I would think you would all be knowledgeable enough to know the answer.

I just had my first fitting for my first bespoke project with a local tailor. I'm a big guy and therefore always wear a low rise trouser. This always ends up running the risk of showing of a bit of the nefarious 'builder's crack', though it seems to be a problem that varies greatly from trouser to trouser. I noticed when I sat down that there was a little slippage, though for whatever reason I did not raise it with my tailor.

So anyhow my question is, is this something that can be fixed by design? like is it possible to ask my tailor to have a slightly higher rise in the back than the front (which looks fine) or is that a stupid idea? Or is the a way to reshape the seat of the pants to fix this?

Thanks in advance for the help. if there is a more appropriate forum for such a question please let me know.

Cheers
 
I'm sure Scherensammler Scherensammler will be along and is a proper person of skill. The old (and new) fishtail trousers are much higher at the back. Most jeans also have a significant difference between back or front.

I'm not suggesting you copy the bloke below but ...
c206f84c6935ed8d2f790d2b602a8df40cda8399.jpg
 
FriendCustomer said:
Hey guys. Not sure if this is the correct place to post a question but I would think you would all be knowledgeable enough to know the answer.

I just had my first fitting for my first bespoke project with a local tailor. I'm a big guy and therefore always wear a low rise trouser. This always ends up running the risk of showing of a bit of the nefarious 'builder's crack', though it seems to be a problem that varies greatly from trouser to trouser. I noticed when I sat down that there was a little slippage, though for whatever reason I did not raise it with my tailor.

So anyhow my question is, is this something that can be fixed by design? like is it possible to ask my tailor to have a slightly higher rise in the back than the front (which looks fine) or is that a stupid idea? Or is the a way to reshape the seat of the pants to fix this?

Thanks in advance for the help. if there is a more appropriate forum for such a question please let me know.

Cheers
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fxh said:
I'm sure Scherensammler Scherensammler will be along and is a proper person of skill. The old (and new) fishtail trousers are much higher at the back. Most jeans also have a significant difference between back or front.

I'm not suggesting you copy the bloke below but ...
c206f84c6935ed8d2f790d2b602a8df40cda8399.jpg
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As can be seen in the picture, the classical high back (fishtail) trousers need to be worn with braces. That allows them to be worn by all figure types.
There are only 2 other options to avoid the trousers showing crack in the back (and avoiding braces), one being a low cut front and a slightly higher cut back worn with a belt, the second one the same cut but with side adjusters.
Out of those 3 options the braces variant is likely the most comfortable (and elegant) one, as it allows the trousers to be worn on the belly and also eliminates the danger of slippage in the back with a flat seat.
 
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But thanks anyway bros. Bravo, not suprisingly much better answers than Aussie ass crack weirdo Ovlov received over on SF.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
giphy.gif


But thanks anyway bros. Bravo, not suprisingly much better answers than Aussie ass crack weirdo Ovlov received over on SF.
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Olo. What kind of "bespoke" tailor is he visiting that does not know how to create proper fitting pants?
 
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