Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

florisgreen said:
This collar, intended to be worn without a tie, would be the right choice for a more relaxed look. Nice cloth as well.

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I agree completely. I really like one-piece collars with hidden buttons at the points for casual use. I dislike how button-down shirts look, and I think a well-made one-piece collar rolls much more beautifully than one made with a separate band. Especially since these shirts will never be worn with a tie.
 
Simple perfection, in a single breasted jacket and in a double breasted blazer, Sartoria Dalcuore.

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Lovely rolling lapel in the SB three buttons ironed to two jacket and wonderful proportions in the DB 4on1 blazer: the distance between the buttons and between the stance and the hem is exemplary to me.
 
florisgreen said:
Simple perfection, in a single breasted jacket and in a double breasted blazer, Sartoria Dalcuore.

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Lovely rolling lapel in the SB three buttons ironed to two jacket and wonderful proportions in the DB 4on1 blazer: the distance between the buttons and between the stance and the hem is exemplary to me.
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Looking at it on the mannequin, it seems overly feminine to me. Do you have any pics of it being worn by a human being?
 
Florisgreen wrote:

Simple perfection, in a single breasted jacket and in a double breasted blazer, Sartoria Dalcuore.


Screenshot (424).png

Screenshot (425).png



Lovely rolling lapel in the SB three buttons ironed to two jacket and wonderful proportions in the DB 4on1 blazer: the distance between the buttons and between the stance and the hem is exemplary to me.

We need to see these on people, not tailors dummies...

Oh...!!!
 
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Curiously when I saw it the first time I wasn't positively struck by the Teba jacket. Getting fond of it, I think that it's a great option when you want to dress down a little, still maintaining a good style. This one by The Merchant Fox.

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florisgreen said:
Curiously when I saw it the first time I wasn't positively struck by the Teba jacket. Getting fond of it, I think that it's a great option when you want to dress down a little, still maintaining a good style. This one by The Merchant Fox.

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It’s manufactured by Justo Gimeno in Zaragoza, actually, using the same pattern as all other JG white-labeled Tebas
 
Mr Freedom makes some great, high-end pieces yet keeps it super casual and self-deprecating:

 
florisgreen said:
Curiously when I saw it the first time I wasn't positively struck by the Teba jacket. Getting fond of it, I think that it's a great option when you want to dress down a little, still maintaining a good style. This one by The Merchant Fox.

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I was actually thinking about having one made in a navy Dugdale tweed with a very faint windowpane check. I think I’d prefer just a tad more fitted cut than the one in the top picture, though.
 
florisgreen said:
This would better fit in the disagreeable thread.
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It’s probably not the best example. I think he comes across well - part of it is the clothes and part is the attitude. All very refreshing, especially since he is selling super expensive Americana clothing to clothing nerds and obsessives.
 
Ambrosius08 said:
I was actually thinking about having one made in a navy Dugdale tweed with a very faint windowpane check. I think I’d prefer just a tad more fitted cut than the one in the top picture, though.
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Was going to get the Merchant Fox one, but everyone on here put me off with tales of it being a rip-off and more cost effective ones direct from Spain. Then I lost interest and got one of the Cordings Livingstone jackets in a silk and linen mix a leftover sales one, unlike the 100% linen on the website now.
 
RepeatingPattern said:
Tebas are OK, but the Armoury's 3-pocket blouson is rather nice too, as is the 100 Hands traveller jacket.
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Cavour are doing a jacket this coming season like the 100 Hands Traveller. I've seen the pototype and it was really nice. Not sure what the retail will be on it but I reckon it'll come in quite a bit less than 100 Hands.
 
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"Jean-Manuel and his team have their tailoring made by the Orazio Luciano workshop in Naples - but to Jean-Manuel’s own style and pattern.

So while the make and quality is the same as Orazio, the style is for a slightly more classic, longer and more comfortable jacket, compared to the close-fitting Orazio jacket I have"
 
florisgreen said:
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"Jean-Manuel and his team have their tailoring made by the Orazio Luciano workshop in Naples - but to Jean-Manuel’s own style and pattern.

So while the make and quality is the same as Orazio, the style is for a slightly more classic, longer and more comfortable jacket, compared to the close-fitting Orazio jacket I have"
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this looks so odd to me. i think those are olive pants so that's a weird combo with the light blue. and his seemingly starched collar just gives off a very weird vibe. plus, who wears pocket parrots with olive pants and a cream jacket? just strange.
 
Hmm, surprisingly I like everything but the square there (horrid). I don't think the collar is starched, just the crispness of freshly laundered linen.
 
Rambo said:
this looks so odd to me. i think those are olive pants so that's a weird combo with the light blue. and his seemingly starched collar just gives off a very weird vibe. plus, who wears pocket parrots with olive pants and a cream jacket? just strange.
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Thats looks like a Carpi collar? Pencil man is always off to a bad start with soft tailoring for me.

Be interesting to read his Orazio Luciano coat review, seeing as it was a freebie no doubt. Not quite slagging it off but sounds like he's not over keen on their house style- if he had any sense he'd have had his coat made longer by them and a more "comfortable" fit-if anyone wants to trawl his blog and post a link...
 
Ambrosius08 said:
This outfit would look much better with medium-grey trousers and a less saturated tissue. Like this:
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I strongly disagree on this. I know med-grey trousers is the answer to everything in CM but nope. It just looks like he was trying a different jacket.

It is a warm weather outfit, odd autumnal drab grey trousers is not it. I agree re saturation though.

The square is just garbage. Combination is best without a square but if he must don a square there then I suppose white/cream linen base works.
 
QuandoDio said:
I strongly disagree on this. I know med-grey trousers is the answer to everything in CM but nope. It just looks like he was trying a different jacket.

It is a warm weather outfit, odd autumnal drab grey trousers is not it. I agree re saturation though.

The square is just garbage. Combination is best without a square but if he must don a square there then I suppose white/cream linen base works.
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You’re right. I originally planned to give him brown (and more lightly coloured) trousers, but my photoediting mojo wasn’t potent enough and I compromised.

There really is no need for a square with a loud shirt like that, but white linen would be perfect as you say.
 
QuandoDio said:
Hmm, surprisingly I like everything but the square there (horrid). I don't think the collar is starched, just the crispness of freshly laundered linen.
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Agreed. The square can be a nice touch, but can spoil a look as well: better none than a bad one.
 
Ambrosius08 said:
This outfit would look much better with medium-grey trousers and a less saturated tissue. Like this:
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QuandoDio said:
I strongly disagree on this. I know med-grey trousers is the answer to everything in CM but nope. It just looks like he was trying a different jacket.

It is a warm weather outfit, odd autumnal drab grey trousers is not it. I agree re saturation though.

The square is just garbage. Combination is best without a square but if he must don a square there then I suppose white/cream linen base works.
Click to expand...

Honestly I like both colour and also a dark brown would look great in my opinion.
 
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