Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

belinmad said:
I think torso:leg ratio comes into play as a secondary observation, no? Typically (or at least what I have always experienced and seen in other bespoke garments is you measure your jacket to your thumb’s knuckle - which means you are measuring torso:arm ratio really, no? From there, some people prefer it a tad shorter (a trend that most people dressing footballers seem to have adopted) or longer (Sexton style). I’m 5’9” and jackets that are shorter than my knuckle just feel oddly childish.

I do have a few that are cut longer, always depending on how “deep” the waist suppression on the coat is, ie if there’s a clear supression subtly starting below the armpit, then I see a longer jacket as more elegant and forgiving. A jacket with a more brusque waist supression (just at waist level) tends to look a bit ridiculous if too long. So maybe there’s also the ratio of the two overlapping triangles?
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To clarify, my tailor did mention he usually does the knuckle thing, but shortened my jacket specifically because of my short torso. Then again another tailor cut it following and I felt both look fine; they probably also took into account other factors in their house style when determining the best jacket length too.

Agree that deep waist suppression looks better with longer jacket. I think it is also the case with very low lapel rolls and open quarters. The curves look too abrupt and draw too much attention on shorter jackets in my eyes. Would look like you're wearing a mini skirt.
 
alex1942 said:
To clarify, my tailor did mention he usually does the knuckle thing, but shortened my jacket specifically because of my short torso.
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Yep, this is precisely what I meant - most would start with the knuckle point as a reference, and adjust as needed (in this case your tailor looking at the torso:leg proportions)
 
Not sure if this has been shared before. I find this guy's combinations very agreeable. I prefer hies darker or textured shoes.

Edit: and many of his jeans.


 
Pimpernel Smith said:
The thing with the modern politician it's a case of being bland to hide the skulduggery going on behind the scenes. Like Boris with his Pulsar. Just a stage act. Does anyone think he's not sporting that as an affectation to bedazzle the weak and feeble minded. He's as hungry for power and status as the rest of us. And has got it. The I don't think enough of about my appearance to comb my hair, or wear a decent watch, because I don't care and are powerful enough not to dig what you think, or engage in mere aesthetics is pure stage craft.
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Boris will say whatever he thinks will help Boris.

However, when it comes to personal appearance you have to remember that Boris is an incredibly lazy sod. He is different from the modern politicians who go tieless and are neat but bland.
 
Sauce said:
Same here, at 6' 5" a short coat looks woeful on me. I see it all the time on tall men as well. Sports coat half way on their bum, slighty lower on the front. Looks so bad.
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It looks so naff and there's no get out, you just can't repair the damage of that look. It's the jacket world equivalent of half mast trousers.
alex1942 said:
Not sure if this has been shared before. I find this guy's combinations very agreeable. I prefer hies darker or textured shoes.

Edit: and many of his jeans.


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I like the socks in his first photo.
Kingstonian said:
However, when it comes to personal appearance you have to remember that Boris is an incredibly lazy sod. He is different from the modern politicians who go tieless and are neat but bland.
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Hard to way him up, the jovial class clown, the bumbling fool who looks like he's been dragged through a bush backwards, doesn't quite match his success. I think it's a bit of an act. But I think you're right he will do and say anything to maintain his position. Not sure of his taste in women, that Carrie isn't anything to get excited about.
 
Tailor friend, flawless jacket

159972176_4148465388520426_7830527389454489406_n.jpg
 
QuandoDio said:
Should be in the disagreeable tbh.
Unbuttoning cuff buttons
Exploding pocket square
Wrong choice of pocket square.
Gaudy bracelet
Contrast red thread ( or lapel chain) ?

That being said, nice fitting suit jacket.
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Yeah but was a pretty nice example of great jacket, those do not come around easily.
 
Sartodi Napoli said:
Tailor friend, flawless jacket

159972176_4148465388520426_7830527389454489406_n.jpg
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Great looking suit. I can live with the cuff button undone and the PS but the lapel pin and bracelet would have to go. And the waistcoat.

Interesting contast cuff on the shirt. Don't think I've seen that before.
 
Woof.

One of my best friends had a backyard wedding last summer (finally), and a couple guys we know are really into western wear these days it seems, which is hilarious given we all grew up literally a couple hundred yards from the beach, surfing and fishing and whatnot. So they attend in denim, one cowboy hat, and bandanas for masks since it's peak Covid.

I asked them if they were getting ready to rob a stagecoach.
 
Dropbear said:
SWD Formal:

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Wrong thread! This is the agreeable menswear thread, and that is most definitely not agreeable - unless you are that guy who used to hang around here who liked dressing up like a coal miner or Depression-era farmer in the dustbowl.
 
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The fucker looks SO much better with proper shoulder padding (Sexton in this case).
I don’t understand his obsession with unstructured Italian style.
 
Sauce said:
Like a thousand times better.

What causes those shoulder divots?
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Typically its an armhole construction problem, I think. Something around the armhole width not matching the wearer’s shoulder shape, IIRC. Frank Shattuck would talk endlessly on how cutting the armhole the right way is key for how the sleeve drapes from the shoulder.

Maybe he had it altered? I’m assuming a Sexton suit would have its armholes properly cut.
 
the shoulders are too narrow. a wider angle would allow the padding and fabric to flow over the edge and it would drape down better. its such a sharp angle that its causing the divot.
 
Sauce said:
Like a thousand times better.

What causes those shoulder divots?
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Same suit as above. No divots and dare I say, quite superb tbh. Maybe he has added lockdown/ christmas season weight or the way he is standing. Or it is just rumples as the suit looks like it needs a press.

Still, I agree with the sentiment, more structured stuff suits him better.
 
belinmad said:
The fucker looks SO much better with proper shoulder padding (Sexton in this case).
I don’t understand his obsession with unstructured Italian style.
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Unfortunately common. People don't dress for their body style and follow tailoring trends instead (and we're probably all guilty of that to some extent!). There are quite a few people with sloping shoulders who would really benefit from padding but who insist on unstructured shoulders.

Rambo said:
the shoulders are too narrow. a wider angle would allow the padding and fabric to flow over the edge and it would drape down better. its such a sharp angle that its causing the divot.
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Jeffrey Diduch (jeffreyd over on SF), who is a tailor, explained some years back that it's usually caused by the jacket being too narrow for the wearer's body, particularly across the upper back. As a result, the fabric pulls horizontally, which causes the divots at the tops of the sleeves.
 
Journeyman said:
Jeffrey Diduch (jeffreyd over on SF), who is a tailor, explained some years back that it's usually caused by the jacket being too narrow for the wearer's body, particularly across the upper back. As a result, the fabric pulls horizontally, which causes the divots at the tops of the sleeves.
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yes
 
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