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[formby002]

Hmm, very nice. Middle weight also, thanks for the suggestion.

Had to look Lovat on web, they have a mesmerizing video on their landing page.

Lovat weave a lot of the Tweed for other merchants too.

 

[WCutter]

Lovat weave a lot of the Tweed for other merchants too.

Thanks for pointing things like this, it's really helpful for me. Ever since I joined DW I was under a constant bombardment of brands, tailors and names of mills, merchants, retailers ... I'd probably need some more good months for getting a grasp of this landscape.

Which is ok for me - as I will postpone any high end decisions (bespoke, big names); I'll first experiment with alterations of RTW or what I already have, wear things for maybe a year, see what plays and what not, maybe try some MTM at some moment for confirmation. I embarked on a mission of charting the MTM and bespoke tailors in my country first, I'm not gonna rush to Naples or Paris first. Or it depends what I'll be learning in meeting them ...

 

[formby002]

Does anyone on here subscribe to The Rake?

Opinions...?

 

[formby002]

Thanks for pointing things like this, it's really helpful for me. Ever since I joined DW I was under a constant bombardment of brands, tailors and names of mills, merchants, retailers ... I'd probably need some more good months for getting a grasp of this landscape.

Which is ok for me - as I will postpone any high end decisions (bespoke, big names); I'll first experiment with alterations of RTW or what I already have, wear things for maybe a year, see what plays and what not, maybe try some MTM at some moment for confirmation. I embarked on a mission of charting the MTM and bespoke tailors in my country first, I'm not gonna rush to Naples or Paris first. Or it depends what I'll be learning in meeting them ...

When the time comes I wouldn't get too hung-up on cloths to be honest. A good tailor will guide you in the right direction. That's part and parcel of being a good tailor.

 

[doghouse]

Does anyone on here subscribe to The Rake?

Opinions...?

Yeah I did. It's a high quality publication in terms of materials. Content is generally pretty good, I just kind of pared down my subscriptions

 

[formby002]

Yeah I did. It's a high quality publication in terms of materials. Content is generally pretty good, I just kind of pared down my subscriptions

I've been reading some of the editorials that they publish on their website, seem like puff pieces/advertorials...

 

[doghouse]

I've been reading some of the editorials that they publish on their website, seem like puff pieces/advertorials...

For the most part the web totally is, but the magazine actually has legitimate articles in it.

 

[Great White Snark]

The Rake can be a decent read. What GQ once aspired to be long ago, before it completely lost its way. Sick to death of The Rake sucking off the likes of Ciffoneli and Edward Sexton, they definitely need some new heroes.

There are a couple of competing magazines out there now - The Nobleman and Gentleman’s Journal - which are covering the same ground so it will be interesting to see who survives in this narrow niche.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

Does anyone on here subscribe to The Rake?

Opinions...?

Shills, fake news, bribed reports, tacky whatever.

Example of corruption and bad taste.

 

[fxh]

Shills, fake news, bribed reports, tacky whatever.

Example of corruption and bad taste.

You feeling ok?

You haven’t mentioned anal intercourse in this post.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

You feeling ok?

You haven’t mentioned anal intercourse in this post.

Was already incluided on this sentence "Example of corruption and bad taste."

U asperger right?

 

[karoliso]

Hey folks

Wearing a tie (knitted or shantung, perhaps) with a casual moleskin bomber jacket as such. Can it be pulled off?

 

[doghouse]

Its not impossible but man it will be difficult. I would think you have to go for that mid century vibe overall. Don't think Shantung either, like a black knitted tie

 

[Grand Potentate]

Hey folks

Wearing a tie (knitted or shantung, perhaps) with a casual moleskin bomber jacket as such. Can it be pulled off?

would jerry seinfeld wear a tie?

 

[Dropbear]

Its not impossible but man it will be difficult. I would think you have to go for that mid century vibe overall. Don't think Shantung either, like a black knitted tie

Never go Full Fedora Lounge

would jerry seinfeld wear a tie?

 

[doghouse]

Never go Full Fedora Lounge

Lol, no not Fedora Lounge, more like late 60s football coach or FBI agent.

 

[Thruth]

Hey folks

Wearing a tie (knitted or shantung, perhaps) with a casual moleskin bomber jacket as such. Can it be pulled off?

I don't wear ties without jackets. Bombers are casual jackets. I dug up a former member's pic of him wearing a Valstarino with a tie. Doesn't work for me. But no one is going to bat an eye in business casual workplace.

 

[fxh]

Hey folks

Wearing a tie (knitted or shantung, perhaps) with a casual moleskin bomber jacket as such. Can it be pulled off?

NO

 

[karoliso]

Message received

 

[fxh]

Hey folks

Wearing a tie (knitted or shantung, perhaps) with a casual moleskin bomber jacket as such. Can it be pulled off?

Those jackets are a minefield. I rarely if ever see them worn well. Its too much of a hill to climb. The only way they can work is to dress up a pair of jeans a bit but never with tie.
I seem to recall that Simon Crompton has a go - reasonably successfully - mainly I think with T shirt and white jeans. But keep in mind he will probably have a tailored made jacket worth a few thousand squids or the price of a small car and a professional photographer- caveat emptor.

 

[karoliso]

That's fair. I was considering a more casual jacket and thought that one would look good with an oxford shirt, either chinos or dark indigo/ecru jeans, and some dark brown pebble grain derbies.

 

[fxh]

That's fair. I was considering a more casual jacket and thought that one would look good with an oxford shirt, either chinos or dark indigo/ecru jeans, and some dark brown pebble grain derbies.

Don’t know which country you are in but Uniqlo has some decent enough Harrington type jackets that are cheap, good looking and seem well made. I’d start there first.

 

[Thruth]

That's fair. I was considering a more casual jacket and thought that one would look good with an oxford shirt, either chinos or dark indigo/ecru jeans, and some dark brown pebble grain derbies.

Perfectly fine sans tie.

Just don't be this affected twat.

 

[Great White Snark]

The only time I’ve seen collar and tie work well with a blouson / bomber type jacket is those old USAAF pilots in WW2. Think Matthew Modi r in ‘Memphis Belle’.
I think Damian Lewis had a similar look towards the end of Band of Brothers when he had his A-2 jacket (not sure how airborn infantry merited an A-2!) but you’d look a bit cosplay if you tried it with a c**t cap and bloused bottom pants like that in this day and age!

 

[Dropbear]

Anyone with a Proper Cloth account want to get a $20 credit by sharing a code with me?

Proper Cloth — Custom Shirts Made Smarter.

You've got to try this! Proper Cloth is the #1 custom shirt maker that sends perfect fitting shirts to your door (with a guaranteed fit). Get started now.

propercloth.com

 

[Dropbear]

There’s been some interesting discussions elsewhere about leather jacket patterns recently, with a few Big Leather Daddies critiquing the Aero fit and range of movement. The thing that intrigued me is hearing a few people say that they ‘hang on the neck and not the shoulders’ making them uncomfortable after a few hours and creating sore necks and backs.

The illustrations below have been cited as evidence and are certainly something I have seen in a lot of Aeros as well as another Scottish maker. But it also looks like something I have seen in some tailoring discussions about suits.

I thought it might be interesting to get the opinion of people used to discussing menswear, because I recall this is often blamed on poor tailoring or the shoulder slope, rotation or something like that.

 

[Grand Potentate]

There’s been some interesting discussions elsewhere about leather jacket patterns recently, with a few Big Leather Daddies critiquing the Aero fit and range of movement. The thing that intrigued me is hearing a few people say that they ‘hang on the neck and not the shoulders’ making them uncomfortable after a few hours and creating sore necks and backs.

The illustrations below have been cited as evidence and are certainly something I have seen in a lot of Aeros as well as another Scottish maker. But it also looks like something I have seen in some tailoring discussions about suits.

I thought it might be interesting to get the opinion of people used to discussing menswear, because I recall this is often blamed on poor tailoring or the shoulder slope, rotation or something like that.

View attachment 44891View attachment 44892View attachment 44893

i might be completely new to this but who gets a sore neck or back from wearing a jacket???

 

[Dropbear]

i might be completely new to this but who gets a sore neck or back from wearing a jacket???

Right? I’m guessing they are wearing some 8lb monster stiff and heavy armor 4oz thick motorcycle jacket, but still. I can’t imagine it, though I do notice those lines on most Awro patterns - I figure it’s probably something to do with how far back the neck is or the shoulder rotation, but I’m no expert. I still struggle to see the physics or a jacket that you ‘wear on the neck and not the shoulders’.

 

[güero]

I still struggle to see the physics or a jacket that you ‘wear on the neck and not the shoulders’.

In the pictures you see the chest overlapping and the bottom opening up. I guess that is the effect?

 

[Dropbear]

In the pictures you see the chest overlapping and the bottom opening up. I guess that is the effect?

It’s like the effect you’d get by pushing your shoulders forward and your neck back - creating creases going from the base of the back of neck to the armpits. I’ve seen it on some suit jackets where the should padding even looks bunched up as a result. I just don’t know what it is in the pattern that causes this. Or why they don’t fix it.

 

[Great White Snark]

Right? I’m guessing they are wearing some 8lb monster stiff and heavy armor 4oz thick motorcycle jacket, but still. I can’t imagine it, though I do notice those lines on most Awro patterns - I figure it’s probably something to do with how far back the neck is or the shoulder rotation, but I’m no expert. I still struggle to see the physics or a jacket that you ‘wear on the neck and not the shoulders’.

Not sure about the ‘hanging on the neck’ issue but you’ve clearly highlighted the sloping creases evident in your examples. This may or may not be relevant but this happened to me on a shirt I was having made. It was made with squarer shoulders than I possess. I’m certainly not Crompy Milk Bottle but when the shirt maker adjusted for the angle of my shoulders that inverted ‘V’ of creases magically disappeared. It could be that the jackets if custom made are made with accurate chest, waist, arm measurements etc but not with enough regard to the shoulder angle of the customer.

 

[Dropbear]

Not sure about the ‘hanging on the neck’ issue but you’ve clearly highlighted the sloping creases evident in your examples. This may or may not be relevant but this happened to me on a shirt I was having made. It was made with squarer shoulders than I possess. I’m certainly not Crompy Milk Bottle but when the shirt maker adjusted for the angle of my shoulders that inverted ‘V’ of creases magically disappeared. It could be that the jackets if custom made are made with accurate chest, waist, arm measurements etc but not with enough regard to the shoulder angle of the customer.

I think that might be exactly it. A combination of 90 degree shoulder angle and a neck hole too far forward.

I’m sure it’s too hard to alter shoulder angle on the pattern for customers (as you say, they will tweak the basic measurements, but it’s not a bespoke pattern), so maybe they felt this worked best for the widest range of people - with those more slopey of shoulder having to accept some creasing.

 

[Streetlight]

Armhole and shoulder seam is everything.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

How does Ebay nowadays to sell high end used clothes as Corneliani, Brioni and the rest etc?

I used to sell a lot of used ties 15 years ago, but do not know at this time.

 

[Thruth]

How does Ebay nowadays to sell high end used clothes as Corneliani, Brioni and the rest etc?

I used to sell a lot of used ties 15 years ago, but do not know at this time.

It’s still good.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

It’s still good.

Better than this?

shitte why does it says not available? James Ruskin session

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mNYFRZ7Lwwk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Grand Potentate]

Better than this?

shitte why does it says not available? James Ruskin session

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mNYFRZ7Lwwk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

got a bad link here. use the media embed button (the one that looks like a picture on top of a movie reel) and if it doesn't work in there then the link is no good.

 

[Dropbear]

Has anyone sold stuff on SF lately? Do people even look there anymore?

I have a bunch of trousers and sports coats I don’t wear that are too good for goodwill but also nothing too special ($50-$100 range). I’m not selling on eBay now that they have dumped PayPal and I’m not familiar with other platforms like Grailed.

 

[Ciociaro]

Can we open a recommended film thread?

I have been several years very busy with the studies and even got tv or watched a single film. ( ok tons of porno, but those doesn´t counts) lol

Now I just watched The Joker since the uni asked for us to psychoanalice the guy.

Great film about trauma out of mistreating, my speciality.

Can you recommend me in general great films, preferently cult ones, over 4 star rating, no commercial crap please. Got very few spare time.

last ones I watched were in 2010, so I am pretty lost nowadays and can´t id crap from good stuff just for the poster or name.

Meanwhile I will watch all the John Carpenter films from the 70s and 80s, can´t be better than than.

Do you only want post 2010 films?

I highly recommend “The Great Beauty”. It is a beautifully shot and interesting sartorially as well—as it features a Neapolitan in Rome. Also, it exposes the psychosis of modern artists of the Abramivitch ilk. If you enjoy that, check out the “the hand of God” which is set in Naples but inferior—also by Sorrentino.

“Tree of life” is also worth seeing, but perhaps too pretentious.

”once upon a time in Hollywood” is a celebration of old time masculinity of he Clint Eastwood variety—and opposed to the effeminate and the hippies

“the Irishman” is worth seeing, even if it’s the Scorsese’s best work. I also think “silence” is well worth a watch—Scorsese’s passion project about persecuted Portuguese jesuits in Japan.

”Grand Budapest Hotel” is a fine celebration of pre war central Europe and grand hotels—but I’m not sure whether you would enjoy Wes Anderson’s direction; he is not for everyone

 

[Ciociaro]

My fav films are the Goodfellas and Casino by the way, but the Irishman seems not to be close.

La grande belleza, the main charachter wears Attolini, all Naples was plenty of the film poster back then and the guys at Attolini factory were kinda excited.

Yes a masterwork of film, very ironic one, I love the scene they were snorting and two planes leave two lines of chemtrails at the end of that scene.

there is another one do not say if from the same director or not, but got the style copied from Casino, is about the life of one Italian corrupted prime minister, Andreoti, what a great film, those were the last films actually I watched before my cinema blackout.

I just rewatched Assault of the precint 13th, one of my cult films.

Can´t argue with a confident man. What a masterwork

yes, the Irishman is not as good as those films.

Yes, the Andreotti one is also by Sorrentino. He also did one on Berlusconi, called “Loro”, but I haven't seen it. He also did the series ”the young pope” about Pius XIII, who fights aghainst the gheys/masons in the church. Much better than the sequel “the new pope”

Lately, I have been watching the Dirty Harry sequels.