Cotton v's wool v's linen in summer

formby002

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No, sorry. I found it on the Instagram account of Sartoria Ciardi.

I understand that the picture misses a whole look, though I like what is visible: the fabric and the lapel.
That's the thing. Large and/or bold patterns can be hard to judge without looking at the finished article, even better if worn in an ensemble...A problem when flicking through cloth swatches is visualising the finished thing.

It reminds me of a boating blazer. Swelled edges too by the look of it.
 

florisgreen

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I can hardly think of something suiting the summer season better than this gorgeous shirt in cotton voile by D'Avino Napoli. Fabric Carlo Riva.

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Pimpernel Smith

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I’ve noticed quite a few brands pimping cotton suits this summer.

I don’t think cotton is any cooler than a light wool or linen-wool blend. I’m also not convinced it is any lower maintainable or care - you’re still going to get it professionally cleaned and not just throw it in the machine, right?

Aside from it being cheaper (and looking it, imo) and appealing to people unfamiliar with suit fabrics, I don’t see the appeal.

But I could be missing something you daily suit wearers know.
The problem with cotton is that it creases quick and doesn't give. I'd prefer a cream cotton suit through to a non-mix linen one any day.
 

florisgreen

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The problem with cotton is that it creases quick and doesn't give. I'd prefer a cream cotton suit through to a non-mix linen one any day.
Cotton also changes colour in the sun more easily, and discolour with sweat contact. Especially unpleasant the stripes that originate at the back part of the knee. I would always prefer wool or a wool mix over cotton.
 

florisgreen

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Such a safari shirt is ideal to be good styled when the weather is too hot even for lightest jacket.

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florisgreen

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It seems that Simon Crompton is not alone needing a "chore" suit or jacket. I don't really dislike it, so much better than the most streetwear, but don't get the sense of it, unless you actually use it for working.

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florisgreen

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Beautiful jacket in a lovely cloth. The advantage of such a subdued grey/beige colour is that you can play with bold colours in the shirt or tie or pocket square.

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florisgreen

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I love these classic wide-leg trousers from Scott Fraser Collection.

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You can define the cloth and some features.

They have a bunch of gorgeous fabrics you can choose from. Among my favourites for summer these ones in linen, cotton/linen mix and tropical wool:

Sea Glass Green Irish Linen/ Dusky Pink Cotton Linen
Sea-glass-Irish-linen-400x600.jpg
Dusty-pink-cotton-linen-400x600.jpg


Khaki Irish Linen/ Caramel Irish Linen
Khaki-Irish-linen-400x600.jpg
Caramel-Irish-linen-400x600.jpg


Cornflower Irish Linen/ Sunflower Cotton Linen
Corn-flour-blue-Irish-linen-400x600.jpg
Sunflower-cotton-linen-400x600.jpg


Tobacco Irish Linen/ Sage Linen
Scott-Fraser-Collection-Tobacco.jpg
Scott-Fraser-Collection-Sage-linen-400x600.jpg


Cornflower Tropical Wool/ Putty Linen
Scott-Fraser-Collection-Corn-flour-blue-tropical-wool-400x600.jpg
Scott-Fraser-Collection-Pale-putty--400x600.jpg



Price £280.
 
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fxh

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If you are going to wear "wide" trousers you need to have party and invite your trousers down to meet you shoes.
 

florisgreen

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New at The Merchant Fox this Concour d'Elegance Navy Prince of Wales Check:

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It's a lightweight cloth in 100% superfine merino wool.
 

florisgreen

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I really like this safari jacket in denim from G. Inglese, the cloth seems supple and has a beautiful colour.

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I wonder however how it would age (discolouring).
 

Panama

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I'd like to have this expertise.
Just learn the weaves:


Open
Leno, Giro d'Inglesse, Aertex

Light Weight
Batiste, Lawn, Voile, Zephyr

Basket
Oxford, Oxford Pinpoint, Panama,
Castello/Prince Oxford

Standard
Royal Oxford, Poplin, Broadcloth, Twill, Fil a fil, Jacquard/Dobby, Chambray

Others
Seersucker, Herringbone, Flannel

Pique, Marcella - both probably Dobby.

I have just jotted the above, I am a bit rusty so I may have categorised a few incorrectly. I learnt a new weave the other day, I will have to find it.
 
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Panama

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605
Just learn the weaves:


Open
Leno, Giro d'Inglesse, Aertex

Light Weight
Batiste, Lawn, Voile, Zephyr

Basket
Oxford, Oxford Pinpoint, Panama

Standard
Royal Oxford, Poplin, Broadcloth, Twill, Fil a fil, Jacquard/Dobby, Chambray

Others
Seersucker, Herringbone,

Pique, Marcella - both probably Dobby.

I have just jotted the above, I am a bit rusty so I may have categorised a few incorrectly. I learnt a new weave the other day, I will have to find it.
The Kersey weave...
 

florisgreen

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1,543
Getting ready for Autumn.

A beautiful three patch pocket jacket by Sartoria Dalcuore in Fox Brothers Somerset Jacketing.

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A stunning cloth, Fox Drop, Autumn Tweed, inspired to the colours of the countryside surrounding the factory in the West of England.

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Otto

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I'm finding that lightweight cotton chambray shirts are good in the heat. Pretty open weave it seems, and so breathable, but more substantial than poplin, so it doesn't stick to your skin when you sweat. Doesn't wrinkle like linen either but still has a nice texture.
 

florisgreen

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Beautiful cloths for Spring and Summer jacketing, Fox Brothers.

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Especially fond of those with basket weave.
 

florisgreen

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1,543
I don't know if we have a dedicated thread to this garment, thus posting here.

A beautiful morning gown from The Merchant Fox in a light wool/linen mix, suitable for the warm season.

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doghouse

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I know you too well

It's true

Fox's prices are ridiculous.

From what I've gotten from them I think they are generally in the ballpark. There's some items that are quite steep I've seen them selling, but others pretty much online with the market. The dressing gowns are actually a bit below say Turnbull.
 

formby002

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It's true



From what I've gotten from them I think they are generally in the ballpark. There's some items that are quite steep I've seen them selling, but others pretty much online with the market. The dressing gowns are actually a bit below say Turnbull.
I was referring to the cloth prices. A few tailors have told me they're ridiculous and looking at their website...
 

doghouse

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I was referring to the cloth prices. A few tailors have told me they're ridiculous and looking at their website...

I guess it depends. The retail is very high, but my tailor purchasing for me has been inline with most of the higher end merchants
 
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