Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

dreamspace

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Blazer looks like something you'd find in a 1992 Armani or Hugo Boss catalog - even though the menswear nerds will argue that it's based on "classic menswear from the 1940s / 1950s"
 

InstaHate

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Blazer looks like something you'd find in a 1992 Armani or Hugo Boss catalog - even though the menswear nerds will argue that it's based on "classic menswear from the 1940s / 1950s"
It fits well, and though I’m not a fan of gold buttons, I understand that they have their place and the guy is old enough that he probably pulls it off. But the button stance or whatever it’s called, as you say, very early 90s.
 

doghouse

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It fits well, and though I’m not a fan of gold buttons, I understand that they have their place and the guy is old enough that he probably pulls it off. But the button stance or whatever it’s called, as you say, very early 90s.
If you are gonna go gold button, you gotta really go all the way. Gold Rolex, generally DB blazer, open collar with ascot or even bare chest hair. No half measures allowed.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Untermensch

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It also costs the best part of £5000.
He’s ‘avin a larf
'E 'as an even bigger larf in the next post, where, through extraordinaly logial contortions, he justifies the 800 squid price tag for a ready-to-wear pair of trousers. Spouting nonsense about "bespoke-level" and "handwork" and "design".
 

Pimpernel Smith

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He has his own style blog and his book Stone's Rules has sections on menswear style. He's a fan of MILF porn actress Nina Hartley, and I say that as it means he has some taste. Although the advert he put out looking for a raging bull for his wife with him as cuckold, was probably not his best move. He hasn't updated his style blog for awhile, but rumour has it, he's deep undercover.....

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Scherensammler

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Crompton in a purple jacket that most TV quizz show presenters would find over the top.

To add insult to injury it is badly fitted with an uneven wrinkled fit at the top of the arms. It also costs the best part of £5000.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/11/liverano-liverano-purple-jacket-style-breakdown.html

He’s ‘avin a larf
So Liverano takes bolts of cloth to trunk shows to get rid of dead stock... Interesting.
The overall look and fit is the usual Crompton shite, mixed with the horrible, chunky lapel and collar that Liverano does.
What Antonio apparently not does is fit a down shoulder properly. The right side is a total disgrace. So is the price.
"At moment of writing" 4910€ for the jacket? Does that mean he expects the price to go up or down after his review?
I've watched the "Antonio's colours" film and Antonio is known for buying cloth even when it may not sell. It puts an enormous strain on a tailor shop to dosh out money for such things.
 

Untermensch

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Hear, hear. It looks like a waiter's outfit.

And don't get me started about the price, or Crompers's pathetic justifications of daylight robbery. Tailors are not rich, he says. My heart bleeds.
 

Scherensammler

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It is usually the owner of the tailor shop who is better off. The tailors who actually make the stuff are (at least in the UK) self employed and/ or work long hours to have a decent income. Most SR firms only survive because they are owned by wealthy people.
 

Untermensch

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It is usually the owner of the tailor shop who is better off. The tailors who actually make the stuff are (at least in the UK) self employed and/ or work long hours to have a decent income. Most SR firms only survive because they are owned by wealthy people.

I think that's exactly what Crompers means when he says "tailors" - the owners.

Be that as it may, charging close to 6000 Euros for a suit, when your workshop is in Florence, pretty much guarantees solid profits. Charging 900 Euros for a pair of off-the-rack trousers will make you a millionaire. I mean if a suit takes 60 hours of painstaking work (Crompers's words, not mine!), RTW trousers take what, 10 hours at most? There is a point at which 'luxury' becomes larceny.
 

The Shooman

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I think that's exactly what Crompers means when he says "tailors" - the owners.

Be that as it may, charging close to 6000 Euros for a suit, when your workshop is in Florence, pretty much guarantees solid profits. Charging 900 Euros for a pair of off-the-rack trousers will make you a millionaire. I mean if a suit takes 60 hours of painstaking work (Crompers's words, not mine!), RTW trousers take what, 10 hours at most? There is a point at which 'luxury' becomes larceny.
From talking to tailors over the years l have discovered the following:

- some tailors feel more confident that they can charge big bucks, so they do.
- some tailors also want a decent lifestyle so they also charge big bucks because they think their work is good enough to warrant those higher prices.
- some tailors have more expenses so they charge more ie, they have nice workrooms and they buy many expensive machines.


and l get the feeling that there is now a global market for some expensive things that are made really well. The more expensive the more status. John Lobb Paris or Berluti bespoke comes to mind.
 

Untermensch

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From talking to tailors over the years l have discovered the following:

- some tailors feel more confident that they can charge big bucks, so they do.
- some tailors also want a decent lifestyle so they also charge big bucks because they think their work is good enough to warrant those higher prices.
- some tailors have more expenses so they charge more ie, they have nice workrooms and they buy many expensive machines.


and l get the feeling that there is now a global market for some expensive things that are made really well. The more expensive the more status. John Lobb Paris or Berluti bespoke comes to mind.
The status of tailors has changed. They used to be tradesmen (i.e. "trade", in the British English sense. i.e. not the elite. That would be anyone who wasn't a member of the intellectual class or the landed gentry.). Now they see themselves as artists and are hobnobbing with the elite. Their prices reflect that shift in status.

Expensive=status. You said it. Europe, especially the Continent, is full of arrivistes, quite literally - many are the children of Italian migrants - who went from zero to millionaires by tapping into a very wealthy and very easily wooed market.
 

Kingstonian

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"For now, suffice it to say that I think pretty much all men can look great in a hat. "

Saint Crompers of Belgravia

I don't think so.
That is another less assertive way of putting the Fedora Lounge philosophy.

I have seen Crompton in worse stuff even if it does have an element of playing dress up.

Walked down Jermyn Street yesterday. Bates hatters occupies most of the large window in Hilditch & K premises. So somebody must be buying hats.

Also went into Hamleys to see if I could buy a couple of yo-yos. Staggered how expensive they are but they are also more complicated versions than the ones in my childhood and like a lot of stuff the age of yo-yo players has gone up considerably
 
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His name is Justin FitzPatrick. Writes a shoe blog called the 'Shoe Snob' and sells shoes to IGents under the rather egocentric name of 'J.FitzPatrick'.

Specialises in selling tasteless colourful leather shoes and arcane shoe designs which the iGents cant find anywhere else. Makes them in Portugal and sells them over the internet and through a shop in London. Some of the ugliest most ridiculous shoes available which is really something.

Was known when he used to hang around with West End tailors and shoemakers as an alcoholic who liked to get into fights outside some of the popular pubs in the area. Complete jackass.

https://www.jfitzpatrickfootwear.com/collections/boutique

Behold ...
 

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Kingstonian

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I liked his blog. Some interesting posts on it. For non-high rollers like me he did a feature on Spanish shoe brand Berwick for example (which are as cheap as you can get but sound). His own shoes were never understated though. Used to offer a polishing service out of Gieves and H if I remember correctly. A shoe obsessive but so what. That's the nature of clothing forums.
 
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