Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Lobbster

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I had to look this up. He has had several name changes over the years. He is now known as NewYorkIslander. I can understand him knocking endless, expensive clothing on the head. What I could not believe is the Manchester City thing. Even worse, he travels to Manchester to watch them and brings his kid!

Unbelievable! I thought he had a New York sports team to follow

Seems like he revived his support around the time they became more succesful which is hardly surprising. He could also support New York City FC that are owned by the same group but that's probably too johnny-come-lately for a die hard Sky Blues supporter. Makes me wonder when he sets up his own firm, calls his mates lads and starts beating up a couple of rags.

Still, I know a couple of guys who fly out of Switzerland to watch ManUnited play every two weeks.
 

Kingstonian

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Perhaps the most egregious thing of all (we’ll look past the secondary bandwagon jumping of coming up with some excuse to support City just at a time when they happened to be dominant. I wonder where he was when they were in the third division?) was him changing from New York Ranger to New York Islander. I never found out why, but unless you find out that the entire corporate structure of your team are fervent neo Nazis or were all responsible for the My Lai massacre or something similar, you just can NOT change your team. Dem’s the rules!
I had to look this up too. Now I know they are two competing ice hockey teams. I can understand watching both if one season one team is more attractive. Declaring support and then so publicly switching is the strange part. I know the team could move to the West coast and keep the same name but that’s an American thing. Both ice hockey teams are still in New York anyway.

Maybe the Rangers fans laughed at his clothing choices?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I had to look this up. He has had several name changes over the years. He is now known as NewYorkIslander. I can understand him knocking endless, expensive clothing on the head. What I could not believe is the Manchester City thing. Even worse, he travels to Manchester to watch them and brings his kid!
Back in the time of the football casuals, in my area you had a choice of Liverpool, Everton, Tranmere Rovers and Chester to support. That's if you were normal, if you were a football hooligan you would support Manchester City for some aggro.
 

Journeyman

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What are his other names?
Used to be known as NewYorkRanger, too. I'm not sure of any other names he may have used. He ran a side business making ties and (sometimes) shirts, called Yellow Hook or something similar. However, he shut that down a while back.
 

doghouse

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Used to be known as NewYorkRanger, too. I'm not sure of any other names he may have used. He ran a side business making ties and (sometimes) shirts, called Yellow Hook or something similar. However, he shut that down a while back.
I recall Ranger myself, but not any others.
 

Great White Snark

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WTF was all that shit about trying to dress like a hooligan?

“I spent a ton of money on clothes trying to fit in but now I’ve seen the light and the error of my ways ... and now spend a ton of money on different clothes trying to fit in with a different bunch of people. Thank god I had that epiphany, eh?”
 

Pimpernel Smith

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WTF was all that shit about trying to dress like a hooligan?

“I spent a ton of money on clothes trying to fit in but now I’ve seen the light and the error of my ways ... and now spend a ton of money on different clothes trying to fit in with a different bunch of people. Thank god I had that epiphany, eh?”
Something to do with with being a Manchester City fan, methinks.

There in lies the error of his ways, but not in the way he thinks: “I spent a ton of money on clothes trying to fit in but now I’ve seen the light and the error of my ways ... and now spend a ton of money on different clothes trying to fit in with a different bunch of people....''

If he had been a fan of The Who's original Quadropenia, he would already know that working your fashion sense to financial death, just to fit in is an evolutionary dead-end. Something that was already answered definitely back in 1973.

You need to be working on the premise that you're getting ahead of the game on all fronts because you're the center of your own universe and everyone else are bit players.
 

Great White Snark

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The wording of that article is crap.

Contarary to what the writer infers, “you ought not to smoke” isn’t in and of itself a value judgement.

You ought not to smoke ... if you want to live a long life
You ought not to smoke ... if you wish to avoid a load of health problems
You ought not to smoke ... to avoid children being affected by second hand smoke
You ought not to smoke ... in public places where non smokers may be irritated

etc etc.
 

Journeyman

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^ That looks utterly appalling, but of course we're not the target market.

Unfortunately, it will probably sell like hotcakes and resellers will be asking 500% markup on Grailed and eBay within days of its release.
 

Thruth

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NYR/NYI did not need any bespoke clothing given his teaching job and prevailing dress code

Him saying he started wearing Stone Island to look like young football hooligans when he became enthralled by English football says all one needs to know about his thought sartorial and life thought processes.
 

Thruth

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I had to look this up too. Now I know they are two competing ice hockey teams. I can understand watching both if one season one team is more attractive. Declaring support and then so publicly switching is the strange part. I know the team could move to the West coast and keep the same name but that’s an American thing. Both ice hockey teams are still in New York anyway.

Maybe the Rangers fans laughed at his clothing choices?
isn’t he from Brooklyn? I think the switch was when the Islanders started playing out of the Barclay’s Centre in Brooklyn as well as the Nassau Coliseum. The “ Local team”.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Him saying he started wearing Stone Island to look like young football hooligans when he became enthralled by English football says all one needs to know about his thought sartorial and life thought processes.
I've never heard of a football hooligan crew taking Stone Island as their uniform. It's normally some European sports label or something very blingy.
 

formby001

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I've never heard of a football hooligan crew taking Stone Island as their uniform. It's normally some European sports label or something very blingy.
Late 90s early 00's. Bit of a uniform for those who wanted to be a bit GANGSTA...

Shit look to be honest....
 

Thruth

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I've never heard of a football hooligan crew taking Stone Island as their uniform. It's normally some European sports label or something very blingy.
SI popularity started in the 80's with hooligan crews traveling abroad and bringing it back, at a time when it was under the radar in the UK. formby001 formby001 is correct in saying it bloomed in the 90's/00's when it was taken up by streetwear and wannabe hard men not just in the UK but across Euroland.

SI was initially started as a diffusion brand of CP Company (Massimo Osti) so the kit did not cost as much as it does now that it is a "premium" SWD brand.

Both are interesting brands that use technology in materials and dyeing/surface treatment but usually in a garish way. You will still see them use Ventile. The SI shadow project limited pieces tend to be far less garish and can be old school or not. I'd buy either of these jackets in a heart beat if I could find them anymore. Retail price is ridiculous even with the quality and thought. Kind of like Ten C in that regard. The arm badges are removable thank Christ.

This kind of kit has similar quality to that of Japanese SWD companies producing classic looking SWD pieces. These two jackets would not be out of place in a White Mountaineering, Mountain Research, Visvim, Mount Rainier Design, or Neighborhood F/W collection.

1588697646524.png

Screen Shot 2020-05-05 at 10.58.02 AM.png
 

Lobbster

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For footballs hooligans/ultras it wasn't just Stone Island but bacially any brand with a visible logo that signified a bit of status and money like Burberry or Aquascutum in the UK or Fay in Italy. For a certain time you weren't allowed to enter grounds with hats, scarves or coats by these brands potraying their signature checks or tartans, on Stone Island pieces you had to remove the badge on the arm. This lead to people stealing the badges and putting them unto anything to show off.



 
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McBox

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The real question - will anyone still care about Permanent Style if it keeps dredging the depths of Simon’s mind in a quest to stay relevant?

 

Untermensch

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The real question - will anyone still care about Permanent Style if it keeps dredging the depths of Simon’s mind in a quest to stay relevant?

What a load of shite. We will survive because we care. Wishing the problem away will solve it. I thought the "E" in PPE stood for Economics.
 

Great White Snark

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What a load of shite. We will survive because we care. Wishing the problem away will solve it. I thought the "E" in PPE stood for Economics.
Couldn’t agree more. What a steaming pile of disagreeable smug shite. I’m sick to death of this “think positive and we’re going to be alright” horseshit. Yes Crompton you and your little bubble of silver spoon buddies around the world may well weather the storm and “be alright”. I know of 80 000 Americans who sure as shit are not going to “be alright” and no amount of sycophantic platitudes from your ridiculous little clique of acolytes is going to make them “alright”. This is not some strange anomalous economic quirk which has caused a slight wrinkle in the fortunes of a few overpriced shops and tailoring houses around the world. 300 thousand people are dead you fucking ignorant self-absorbed shit. And Hong Kong is not a country.
But yeah, I’m sure YOU are going to be alright.
 

Alterwelt

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i couldn't agree more. I think he means 'alright' in that a few of the storied textile mills, artisans, and makers will survive. thats it. its fucking bloodbath for everyone else.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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For footballs hooligans/ultras it wasn't just Stone Island but bacially any brand with a visible logo that signified a bit of status and money like Burberry or Aquascutum in the UK or Fay in Italy. For a certain time you weren't allowed to enter grounds with hats, scarves or coats by these brands potraying their signature checks or tartans, on Stone Island pieces you had to remove the badge on the arm. This lead to people stealing the badges and putting them unto anything to show off.



Lagered up and speeding on the terraces in you Burberry he man drag. Never really got the football terraced mentality, herded into pens and crammed in like rats about to be experimented on. It was always a brutal experience, could never see the pleasure in it.

The real question - will anyone still care about Permanent Style if it keeps dredging the depths of Simon’s mind in a quest to stay relevant?

That's one of his finer nauseating and sycophantic advertorials. We will survive, because we, the elite care about luxury businesses, but care naught about the brands for the lesser peoples. But the subtext is one of fear. Not all rich people are into tailoring and bespoke.

Edit: the comments are interesting too. You got Leo saying he's a tailor and works on the ''black'' in Italy so isn't entitled to insurance/social security payments. So the Napoli maestros, that Crompton is elevating and promoting, are a bunch of non-tax paying folk who are above paying taxes and contributing to society? Then Leo retorts that he earns below the tax threshold. Then their products should be as cheap as spaghetti, wot?

Further Crompton say's he's willing to pay more for air travel to make it carbon neutral. Well that's not going to happen is it? You fly on a plane it produces emissions. Unless you're going to offset them and stop the lesser people and countries from flying. How very noble of you.

It's all virtue signalling by a blogger running on empty. But at least he's on message.

You can drop one of the subjects in the 2nd year apparently.

Its a bullshit degree.
Boris Johnson is very scathing about PPEers, being that he did a proper Classical degree of some weight and depth. There's also criticism that the shallowness of many Brit MP's and Civil Servants who have the PPE degree have very shallow strategic and tactical thinking. As a degree from Oxford, it will still open doors.
 
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formby001

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Lagered up and speeding on the terraces in you Burberry he man drag. Never really got the football terraced mentality, herded into pens and crammed in like rats about to be experimented on. It was always a brutal experience, could never see the pleasure in it.



That's one of his finer nauseating and sycophantic advertorials. We will survive, because we, the elite care about luxury businesses, but care naught about the brands for the lesser peoples. But the subtext is one of fear. Not all rich people are into tailoring and bespoke.



Boris Johnson is very scathing about PPEers, being that he did a proper Classical degree of some weight and depth. There's also criticism that the shallowness of many Brit MP's and Civil Servants who have the PPE degree have very shallow strategic and tactical thinking. As a degree from Oxford, it will still open doors.
The main problem with PPE is that it encourages breadth at the expense of depth and promotes a superficial, glib understanding of subjects and given the abundance of these people in influential positions within British politics/culture, Houston we have a problem....

Exhibit 1:

Simon Jenkins PPE


Response:

Prof Tim Gowers FRS.

 
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Untermensch

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Lagered up and speeding on the terraces in you Burberry he man drag. Never really got the football terraced mentality, herded into pens and crammed in like rats about to be experimented on. It was always a brutal experience, could never see the pleasure in it.



That's one of his finer nauseating and sycophantic advertorials. We will survive, because we, the elite care about luxury businesses, but care naught about the brands for the lesser peoples. But the subtext is one of fear. Not all rich people are into tailoring and bespoke.

Edit: the comments are interesting too. You got Leo saying he's a tailor and works on the ''black'' in Italy so isn't entitled to insurance/social security payments. So the Napoli maestros, that Crompton is elevating and promoting, are a bunch of non-tax paying folk who are above paying taxes and contributing to society? Then Leo retorts that he earns below the tax threshold. Then their products should be as cheap as spaghetti, wot?

Further Crompton say's he's willing to pay more for air travel to make it carbon neutral. Well that's not going to happen is it? You fly on a plane it produces emissions. Unless you're going to offset them and stop the lesser people and countries from flying. How very noble of you.

It's all virtue signalling by a blogger running on empty. But at least he's on message.



Boris Johnson is very scathing about PPEers, being that he did a proper Classical degree of some weight and depth. There's also criticism that the shallowness of many Brit MP's and Civil Servants who have the PPE degree have very shallow strategic and tactical thinking. As a degree from Oxford, it will still open doors.
Have you seen the film "Gomorra"? Not the series, but the film. The series is shite and glamourises the Camorra, who are the scum of the earth. The film is as very accurate portrait of the Camorra's underground illegal economy in Naples. One of the characters in the film is a Neapolitan maestro sarto. His boss pays a cut of his profits to the Camorra, who put up the capital for his business in the first place. Standard money laundering routine. The tailor is then forced to outsource some work to illegal migrant Chinese labour. Again, standard.

Crompers thinks he knows Naples and Italy. He knows jack shit.
 

formby001

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Have you seen the film "Gomorra"? Not the series, but the film. The series is shite and glamourises the Camorra, who are the scum of the earth. The film is as very accurate portrait of the Camorra's underground illegal economy in Naples. One of the characters in the film is a Neapolitan maestro sarto. His boss pays a cut of his profits to the Camorra, who put up the capital for his business in the first place. Standard money laundering routine. The tailor is then forced to outsource some work to illegal migrant Chinese labour. Again, standard.

Crompers thinks he knows Naples and Italy. He knows jack shit.
Read the book, its even better...
 

Pimpernel Smith

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The main problem with PPE is that it encourages breadth at the expense of depth and promotes a superficial, glib understanding of subjects and given the abundance of these people in influential positions within British politics/culture, Houston we have a problem....

Exhibit 1:

Simon Jenkins PPE


Response:

Prof Tim Gowers FRS.

I've read that piece by Simon Jenkins before. It shows the rot in the so called liberal Left. For them even the hard sciences are trumped by their ideological scourge. Scary shit.

The riposte is right. I was crap in school at maths all that sin, cos, tan and algebra killed it for me. But I learnt subsequently a grounding in maths and statistical techniques and the games that can be played is everything. It will get you ahead.

Crompers thinks he knows Naples and Italy. He knows jack shit.
As a director of an Italian enterprise and having two decades worth of working with Italians and organisations, I confirm, his is the English gents fantasy of Italy. He hadn't even done his research on the Italian support for workers during this time - for all the heroic tailors and maestros he says he cares about. Which is: the company pays the money to the state and they will pay the top-up direct to the employee and the rest of salary in 5-6 months time. A big motivator to get people back to work. As they're not going to get paid for several months.
 

formby001

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I've read that piece by Simon Jenkins before. It shows the rot in the so called liberal Left. For them even the hard sciences are trumped by their ideological scourge. Scary shit.

The riposte is right. I was crap in school at maths all that sin, cos, tan and algebra killed it for me. But I learnt subsequently a grounding in maths and statistical techniques and the games that can be played is everything. It will get you ahead.



As a director of an Italian enterprise and having two decades worth of working with Italians and organisations, I confirm, his is the English gents fantasy of Italy. He hadn't even done his research on the Italian support for workers during this time - for all the heroic tailors and maestros he says he cares about. Which is: the company pays the money to the state and they will pay the top-up direct to the employee and the rest of salary in 5-6 months time. A big motivator to get people back to work. As they're not going to get paid for several months.
Exhibit 2: Our hero strikes again. Going from this:


To this, in less than 2 months!!

 

Lobbster

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Crompton a part of the elite? He wishes. Ask anyone in the clothing industry what they think of the press, that’ll give you an idea where he stands. To his friends on the continent he’s a cheap multiplier to gain traction in a difficult market, proper advertising will be far more expensive. Nothing more than a useful idiot and they’ll throw him under the bus if a better opportunity shows up. They are fine with his business model of „I’ll make people think I’m a customer and you give me a freebie and pay for my expenses” unlike people in Northern Europe. Here he’ll be invited to do a sort of editorial piece and it will be clear that he was paid for it, no photoshop with friend drinking espresso while having a laugh. As you can tell by his move to editorial content on “cream shirts” how the freebies have dried up a little and he has no idea how to grow his site. By now he’s just as afraid as everyone else. This piece is him just rambling while having people assure him that everything will be fine by some magic economic upturn which it obviously won’t be. After all, his business model is mainly reliant on the money he gets from advertising and a bit of editorial work both of which will be the first things to be scrapped when you’re going into a financial hardship.
 

fxh

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PPE to me = Personal Protective Equipment. Does it mean something else in UK Higher Ed?
 

formby001

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PPE to me = Personal Protective Equipment. Does it mean something else in UK Higher Ed?
Same in UK. PPE = Personal Protective Equipment.

However, there is a university degree course initially studied at Oxford, and now at several other universities called Philosophy, Politics & Economics or PPE for short.

I've always thought of it as being like a turbocharged A-Level General Studies which was typically a filler A-Level for those who wanted to study a 4th A-Level but didn't want a particular taxing subject. Quite common in its time. Pimpy will remember A-Level General Studies I'm sure.

People have been complaining about if since at least the 60s. So criticisms are not new.

 

Pimpernel Smith

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Exhibit 2: Our hero strikes again. Going from this:


To this, in less than 2 months!!

The Guardian: burning through the Scott Fund Ltd reserves like there's no tomorrow.

Crompton a part of the elite? He wishes. Ask anyone in the clothing industry what they think of the press, that’ll give you an idea where he stands. To his friends on the continent he’s a cheap multiplier to gain traction in a difficult market, proper advertising will be far more expensive. Nothing more than a useful idiot and they’ll throw him under the bus if a better opportunity shows up. They are fine with his business model of „I’ll make people think I’m a customer and you give me a freebie and pay for my expenses” unlike people in Northern Europe. Here he’ll be invited to do a sort of editorial piece and it will be clear that he was paid for it, no photoshop with friend drinking espresso while having a laugh. As you can tell by his move to editorial content on “cream shirts” how the freebies have dried up a little and he has no idea how to grow his site. By now he’s just as afraid as everyone else. This piece is him just rambling while having people assure him that everything will be fine by some magic economic upturn which it obviously won’t be. After all, his business model is mainly reliant on the money he gets from advertising and a bit of editorial work both of which will be the first things to be scrapped when you’re going into a financial hardship.
As a bottom feeder adman, he must be worried that his market sector may not be coming back as such frivolous expenditure will be seen as superfluous in the times ahead. It's not like he's got big brand portfolios.

I've always thought of it as being like a turbocharged A-Level General Studies which was typically a filler A-Level for those who wanted to study a 4th A-Level but didn't want a particular taxing subject. Quite common in its time. Pimpy will remember A-Level General Studies I'm sure.
Aye, General Studies, that was the general knowledge with added French/German or Latin you did for a bit of a laugh. Universities didn't accept it's scoring, so it was utterly useless.

Its a social sciences/humanities course. But yeah, you get a BA at the end of it.
With (Hons).
 

Kingstonian

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The main problem with PPE is that it encourages breadth at the expense of depth and promotes a superficial, glib understanding of subjects and given the abundance of these people in influential positions within British politics/culture, Houston we have a problem....
Ministers alarmed by dangerously low levels of PPE

By Magdalen Balliol

The government promised urgent action last night to deal with the national shortage of PPE which is causing grave concern in Whitehall.
‘In the old days, there were limitless supplies’ said a senior official. ‘ Hugh Gaitskell and Roy Jenkins, Ted Heath and Harold Wilson - and all had the know-it-all confidence that comes with an Oxford degree in politics, philosophy and economics.
‘More recently we had William Hague and Peter Mandelson, David Cameron and Ed Balls. Even Theresa May understood the need to maintain stocks of PPE with Jeremy Hunt and Phil Hammond.
‘But now? A bloody classics graduate. And some of his cabinet didn’t even go to Oxford’
Sir Keir Starmer announced last night that Labour would help ease the PPE shortage by rushing supplies of Ed Miliband to the front bench.
The Lib Dems pointed out that their acting leader also had PPE. ‘Sir Ed Davey - surely you've heard of him?’ said a spokeswoman. ‘No? Oh well’

Private Eye number 1520
 
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