Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Untermensch

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328
Interesting. He is often wide eyed with enthusiasm in the presence of people he thinks are the clothing experts and he has put up some classic videos. The award video was great. Kirby is there in all his finery, smoking Cuban cigars and drinking fine malt whisky, but waiting expectantly for the takeaway pizza to be delivered. It’s difficult not to like someone like that. He’s not too snooty either. He likes the dressing up stuff but he’s still personable. You would just have to get him off the subject of clothes for a while.
He gets really pished when he drinks.
 

The Shooman

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He gets really pished when he drinks.
No pizza so far in this video, he really steps it up here. Bespoke dinner suit, cigar, champagne and fine caviar.

Kirby Allison 1.jpg


Kirby is a celebrity in the igent world because he entertains. He is not an expert in menswear, but he talks good and has good quality video production. Few clothing videos have those two things. His videos aren't too short either, which is good. He actually comes across as a likable guy because he is a unique character. I like that he enjoys his life and appreciates the finer things.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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4,410
Interesting. He is often wide eyed with enthusiasm in the presence of people he thinks are the clothing experts and he has put up some classic videos. The award video was great. Kirby is there in all his finery, smoking Cuban cigars and drinking fine malt whisky, but waiting expectantly for the takeaway pizza to be delivered. It’s difficult not to like someone like that. He’s not too snooty either. He likes the dressing up stuff but he’s still personable. You would just have to get him off the subject of clothes for a while.
Please post a link, thanks!

Edit: Oh, I see it now.
 

Kingstonian

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1,659
No pizza so far in this video, he really steps it up here. Bespoke dinner suit, cigar, champagne and fine caviar.

View attachment 33794


Kirby is a celebrity in the igent world because he entertains. He is not an expert in menswear, but he talks good and has good quality video production. Few clothing videos have those two things. His videos aren't too short either, which is good. He actually comes across as a likable guy because he is a unique character. I like that he enjoys his life and appreciates the finer things.
He does not pretend to be an expert or to lay down his own rules on dress. He is also a good listener. No interruptions.

‘Kirby Alison meets The Shooman’ would be a good episode:-

Opening shot - Kirby coming through arrivals at Melbourne airport. He is wearing a three piece suit and a big overcoat. He doffs his Homburg to the camera.

‘Hello I’m Kirby Allison in Melbourne, Australia. I’m here to meet a gentleman known as The Shooman and to discuss his incredible collection of shoes and knitwear.’

Cut to taxi. Then Kirby is in the studio setting the scene. ‘I decided to bring a pair of made-in-Australia, RM Williams boots on this trip and also my grandfathers old crocodile shoes. I don’t wear that much knitwear in Texas but I brought a couple of items.’

Then he makes the introductions and you have his rapt attention for thirty minutes while enjoying the whisky and cigars. Then it’s pizza time and Kirby breaks out several bottles of Penfold Grange to wash it all down. He finishes off with a kiwi fruit dessert. Sorted.
 

Alterwelt

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17
USD$2000+ outfit

View attachment 33784


Another $2000+ outfit
View attachment 33785
To each their own. I don't have a problem with this, in that its his money and if he wants to drop 2k on a casual outfit so be it. at least he looks good.


with Mr. Crompton To be fair, he is knowledgeable, but his entire blog is him fashion modeling on himself. therein lies the problem: Crompton doesn't have natural sprezz of any kind (his outfits are not bad, but they look too studied) nor does he have model-good looks. so when he discusses examples, he uses himself as a platonic ideal. if anything he has milk-bottle shoulders, etc, which make even many of his bespoke fits look off.
 

Kingstonian

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1,659
To each their own. I don't have a problem with this, in that its his money and if he wants to drop 2k on a casual outfit so be it. at least he looks good.


with Mr. Crompton To be fair, he is knowledgeable, but his entire blog is him fashion modeling on himself. therein lies the problem: Crompton doesn't have natural sprezz of any kind (his outfits are not bad, but they look too studied) nor does he have model-good looks. so when he discusses examples, he uses himself as a platonic ideal. if anything he has milk-bottle shoulders, etc, which make even many of his bespoke fits look off.
Crompton is now more knowledgeable and has access to more expensive kit than when he started. Unfortunately, he is a bit too didactic, as if he wants to set himself up as some sort of recognised authority on menswear, an arbiter of good taste.

The trouble with exclusively modelling stuff himself is that it is a bit repetitive. This is not helped when you still look like you could be a character from ‘The Office’.

He does very little to justify the cost of what he is wearing nowadays.

There used to be blog by Thomas Mahon, ex-Savile Row, that gave advice on suits at varying price ranges even down to Marks and Spencer level. That was far more useful to the average person than a blog about expensive bespoke tailoring for which you need to travel to Naples
 

Journeyman

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That's a name I haven't heard in a lonnnnnnnnnnng time.




Thomas Mahon is a fucking legend.
I remembered his excellent blog, English Cut, and went to have a look at it only to discover that it's been taken over by a made-to-measure group and has no useful information on it whatsoever.

It seems that Mahon was forced out of his English Cut tailoring firm due to some dubious manoeuvring from a prospective business partner, and that he's now the head cutter of a firm called Redmayne.


 

Kingstonian

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1,659





I remembered his excellent blog, English Cut, and went to have a look at it only to discover that it's been taken over by a made-to-measure group and has no useful information on it whatsoever.

It seems that Mahon was forced out of his English Cut tailoring firm due to some dubious manoeuvring from a prospective business partner, and that he's now the head cutter of a firm called Redmayne.


When you look at Redmayne prices you can get a made to measure suit for under £1000. Bespoke is from £3250. The made to measure price, in particular, seems ‘affordable’ in comparison to Crompton prices. An additional pair of trousers cost less than a pair of Crompton’s second hand, patched jeans.
 

Untermensch

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328
Thomas Mahon's story is, in a nutshell, is this:

He owned and ran English Cut. Like all independent tailoring houses, it was struggling for money, and could never compete with the Savile Row names bought by Chinese/Hong Kong or Gulf State luxury groups. Mahon was approached by an American investment firm offering to buy English Cut if Mahon would invest inmade-to-measure etc. and generally expand his offer and restructure his business. He went from owner to employee He was just starting to do so, spent a lot of money in the process, but the investment firm then fired him, and withdrew their investment, leaving Mahon out, and English Cut in administration.

English Cut was bought by someone else, and is making crap, if Mahon's comments are anything to go by.

Mahon, on his own and without a penny to his name, rejoined Redmayne, which is where he had started out as an apprentice. He is now their head cutter. Redmayne's been around since 1860 so they have "quality, craftsmanship, and tradition" by the bucket.

I'd say, all things considered, all's well that ends well.

Mahon is a no-nonsense bloke. He is from the t'North, after all. He famously likes to say that he cannot afford his own suits. I'll take that any day over Cifonelli posturing.

Mahon's pattern drafting style is quite similar to Steven Hitchcock's. Lots of freehand. You can see him at work here, though this video belongs in the Agreeable section: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvj5kkmkHgQ

And our friend Allison has interviewed him here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rm50YatnY0
 

doghouse

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Thomas Mahon's story is, in a nutshell, is this:

He owned and ran English Cut. Like all independent tailoring houses, it was struggling for money, and could never compete with the Savile Row names bought by Chinese/Hong Kong or Gulf State luxury groups. Mahon was approached by an American investment firm offering to buy English Cut if Mahon would invest inmade-to-measure etc. and generally expand his offer and restructure his business. He went from owner to employee He was just starting to do so, spent a lot of money in the process, but the investment firm then fired him, and withdrew their investment, leaving Mahon out, and English Cut in administration.

English Cut was bought by someone else, and is making crap, if Mahon's comments are anything to go by.

Mahon, on his own and without a penny to his name, rejoined Redmayne, which is where he had started out as an apprentice. He is now their head cutter. Redmayne's been around since 1860 so they have "quality, craftsmanship, and tradition" by the bucket.

I'd say, all things considered, all's well that ends well.

Mahon is a no-nonsense bloke. He is from the t'North, after all. He famously likes to say that he cannot afford his own suits. I'll take that any day over Cifonelli posturing.

Mahon's pattern drafting style is quite similar to Steven Hitchcock's. Lots of freehand. You can see him at work here, though this video belongs in the Agreeable section: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvj5kkmkHgQ

And our friend Allison has interviewed him here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rm50YatnY0
About the size of it. I thought he always had a partner in English Cut though, but I could be misremembering.
 

Untermensch

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About the size of it. I thought he always had a partner in English Cut though, but I could be misremembering.
I don't have all the details, but I think so. When the equity firm came in, they ceased to be the owners. I don't know who bought English Cut in the end. The went into administration, which is different from bankruptcy. I was told at Henry Herbert that they were approached by someone trying to get them to buy English Cut.
 

doghouse

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I don't have all the details, but I think so. When the equity firm came in, they ceased to be the owners. I don't know who bought English Cut in the end. The went into administration, which is different from bankruptcy. I was told at Henry Herbert that they were approached by someone trying to get them to buy English Cut.
Yeah I kinda kept up with the whole saga when they went into administration but then sort of tailed off.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Like all independent tailoring houses, it was struggling for money, and could never compete with the Savile Row names bought by Chinese/Hong Kong or Gulf State luxury groups
Look at what happened to Gieves & Hawkes as an example of how to fuck up a quality enterprise.
 

Untermensch

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Pimpernel Smith

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I hardly see anyone in their Chester store.
Two years back I went in and bought some sales stuff. It was cheap as chips and utter crap in hindsight. None of it passed the wearing more than a couple of times. If you were paying full price for that, you were getting ripped-off.

Put me right off and the last three trips I've been back, I've just walked past the Grosvenor Precinct store and yes, it always looks empty. I was a Gieves and Hawkes fan boy back in the late 1990s, off-the-peg, I couldn't afford anything else, but the cut and quality was superb.
 

doghouse

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I've been in their outlet in Hong Kong, about 6 years ago or more. I'd give it a miss if anyone is considering going.
 

formby001

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Two years back I went in and bought some sales stuff. It was cheap as chips and utter crap in hindsight. None of it passed the wearing more than a couple of times. If you were paying full price for that, you were getting ripped-off.

Put me right off and the last three trips I've been back, I've just walked past the Grosvenor Precinct store and yes, it always looks empty. I was a Gieves and Hawkes fan boy back in the late 1990s, off-the-peg, I couldn't afford anything else, but the cut and quality was superb.
I bought a Bridge Coat in the mid 00s from their then Kendals Manchester concession. It was very well made, and well styled too. Still got it somewhere I think.

Think it was about £500.
 

Dropbear

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Kingstonian

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The kindest thing I can say about him is that he seems genuine in his love of all things Fedora Lounge, he seems to value comfort as much as style and he isn’t a total snob (will usually point readers to a more affordable option if it is nearly as good).
Never heard of him. Where does he post?

The great thing about Fedora Lounge is their absolute belief in the transformative value of a hat. Sure the posters are all mostly a bit weird and below the neck their style is often remiscent of ‘People of Walmart’; but they certainly know the details on their hats and take great comfort from them.
 
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