Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Mattrick

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This is frequently brought up in the comments. He doesn't review regional tailors, both British and Continental European, because they're of no interest to his international readership as they don't travel to London or the US.
I can't be sure but I don't think every Italian tailor he has used travels to London and the US.
 

Lobbster

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Does he still work for The Rake, if so, do they have an editorial line, if so, what is it. Does it favour Italian tailoring?
The editiors favour what's the most expensive, so they cover houses like Rubinacci, Huntsman, Caraceni Milano among others. In the beginning it was SR heavy but I haven't looked at their magazines in quite some time. The owner Wei Koh seems to favour Italian and French tailoring houses, especially Sciamat.

I can't be sure but I don't think every Italian tailor he has used travels to London and the US.
Those will be the ones he gets paid to review. You just have to look at the last tailor he reviewed to know that this statement is obviously bullshit. He basically encourages people to go to Pugila but not to the English countryside. I always took it as more of an excuse because the tailors in Germany or Austria will not pay him for a review.
 

Untermensch

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Untermensch

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Another Die Workwear. What is it with American journalists and their celebrity-worshipping philosophical musings on menswear?
 

Alterwelt

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Another Die Workwear. What is it with American journalists and their celebrity-worshipping philosophical musings on menswear?
America no longer has a coherent aesthetic or a point of view on menswear. A combination of mass casualization, and athe-leisure took care of that. In addition the millennial generation values experiences - status and social currency revolve around more that.

So celebrity worship occupies a large portion of it.

Celebrity worship in the US existed before, but back then, the celebrities were seen as articulating the platonic ideals of existing aesthetics. Cary Grant – the debonair businessman, John Wayne – the western cowboy, the JFK – the New England Prep.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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America no longer has a coherent aesthetic or a point of view on menswear. A combination of mass casualization, and athe-leisure took care of that. In addition the millennial generation values experiences - status and social currency revolve around more that.

So celebrity worship occupies a large portion of it.

Celebrity worship in the US existed before, but back then, the celebrities were seen as articulating the platonic ideals of existing aesthetics. Cary Grant – the debonair businessman, John Wayne – the western cowboy, the JFK – the New England Prep.
And remember, Cary Grant, is a lad from Bristol in England.

At the Silicon Valley level, or what was once called that before they off-shored the nitty-gritty production to China, they tend eschew any kind of formality and their dressing in t-shirts for meetings and shareholder stuff is a deliberate two fingers to say they don't give a shit about your way of doing things. I don't think enough about you to dress-up.

The Robert Armstrong interview is interesting:

''.....his clothes, his hair, he was this phenomenal figure, analogous to David Bowie in a way.'' No disrespect to Prince, but David Bowie came out of the English fog and coal fireside terrace working class life like an alien and changed the culture completely. He was that revolutionary in 1972.


''.... Another one of my themes is how little colour men are able to wear - and what a bummer that is. '' That's not really true. Women are tied by the same conventions when it comes to presenting the corporate professional organisation look.
 

doghouse

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Another Die Workwear. What is it with American journalists and their celebrity-worshipping philosophical musings on menswear?
I don't know. Doesn't seem overly celebrity worshiping to me. Not a ground breaking article, but generally ok imo.
 

Untermensch

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I'm glad you understood the interview replies and provided a précis. It was all impenetrable intellectual fog to me.
 

doghouse

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America no longer has a coherent aesthetic or a point of view on menswear. A combination of mass casualization, and athe-leisure took care of that. In addition the millennial generation values experiences - status and social currency revolve around more that.

So celebrity worship occupies a large portion of it.

Celebrity worship in the US existed before, but back then, the celebrities were seen as articulating the platonic ideals of existing aesthetics. Cary Grant – the debonair businessman, John Wayne – the western cowboy, the JFK – the New England Prep.
I'm not sure we ever had one coherent to be honest. At least not post 1960 or so. Don't get me started on athleisure though or I'll end up opening a bottle of whiskey and yelling at passersby before the day is over.

I think the whole millennial values experience thing a little over blown personally. They were the ones leading the so called menswear revival" on the interwebs. That being said, I think the notion there was some menswear renaissance underway a little overblown as well. I believe there was an uptick in people caring about what they wore and how they looked and what that said, but there was not some sea change where an army of youngsters were going to don three piece suits to go for cocktails again. It's expression is mutating now to with more alternative expressions of fashion. I think it's a win verall though as it's moved the urban areas of the country away from the shapeless awfulness of the late 20th century American sartorial condition, or lack thereof.
 

doghouse

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I'm glad you understood the interview replies and provided a précis. It was all impenetrable intellectual fog to me.
Eh, it speaks to the conversations we used to have in the old FNB days, touching on what sort of meaning and messaging clothes convey and mean. I find that interesting. I fully believe Crompers has absolutely zero clue and nodded along pensively during the interview.

I think he is right that in America, it has become a little more acceptable to have an interest in clothes and appearance, hearkening back to days of yore.
 

Great White Snark

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A couple of quotes from that Grodd fella are absolute horseshit.
‘A man should never wear a belt, especially with a shiny buckle as it draws the eye to the crotch’
This is the kind of personal opinion dressed up as unassailable truth that the likes of Foo would splatter around. A well dressed man will have his jacket buttoned and no belt buckle visible unless he’s sat down. If you’re worried that your belt buckle will attract the unwanted attention of other men when you sit you’ve got more problems than how to dress. What about pants made for a belt, like jeans? Is this where Crompton’s risible jeans-without-belt-loops came in?

‘If someone notices my tie I cut it up’ (I remember reading the recently departed Robert Evans saying they same thing. It must be nice to have enough wealth to be able to be so cavalier and go snipping away at ties that one presumes have been carefully considered and purchased at no small cost. I would tell the stupid fucker ‘nice tie’ on a daily basis just to fuck with him! What if someone said ‘nice suit’? Would he go and rip that up? What about ‘nice car’? Would he drive it off the Brooklyn Bridge?

Pure weapons-grade horseshit.
 

doghouse

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‘A man should never wear a belt, especially with a shiny buckle as it draws the eye to the crotch’
This is the kind of personal opinion dressed up as unassailable truth that the likes of Foo would splatter around.
I don't go in for absolutism, so I somewhat I agree with your principle here, but anyone that wears a belt with a suit should be beaten with a rubber hose. There's very few exceptions to this.

‘If someone notices my tie I cut it up’ (I remember reading the recently departed Robert Evans saying they same thing. It must be nice to have enough wealth to be able to be so cavalier and go snipping away at ties that one presumes have been carefully considered and purchased at no small cost. I would tell the stupid fucker ‘nice tie’ on a daily basis just to fuck with him! What if someone said ‘nice suit’? Would he go and rip that up? What about ‘nice car’? Would he drive it off the Brooklyn Bridge?
You are correct here. This is inane.

You are lacking a parentheses btw.

{{Wipes tear from eye}}
I know, I know.
 

Kingstonian

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A couple of quotes from that Grodd fella are absolute horseshit.
‘A man should never wear a belt, especially with a shiny buckle as it draws the eye to the crotch’
This is the kind of personal opinion dressed up as unassailable truth that the likes of Foo would splatter around. A well dressed man will have his jacket buttoned and no belt buckle visible unless he’s sat down. If you’re worried that your belt buckle will attract the unwanted attention of other men when you sit you’ve got more problems than how to dress. What about pants made for a belt, like jeans? Is this where Crompton’s risible jeans-without-belt-loops came in?
‘This is the kind of personal opinion dressed up as unassailable truth that the likes of Foo would splatter around.’

True, but Foo was a Johnny come lately, junior arbiter of taste. We had Manton before that. He could give chapter and verse on clothing.

Then there was the supercilious chap that started his own forum and then would not let anybody else in. In the end, there was only him and his Romanian general factotum left.He used to produce limited edition cloths with weights that were going out of fashion in the Victorian era.
 

Great White Snark

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I wear a belt with a suit. So there.
Me too.
Anyone tries to beat me with a rubber hose and I’ll take my belt off and whip seven shades of shit out of them with its shiny metal buckle.
And since almost all OTR suit pants come with belt loops, are these fuckers walking around with empty belt loops (which looks shit!) or paying a tailor to remove them? Or are they all rich enough to “commision” all their suits, jeans, chinos, shorts, cords, cav twills, etc to be made without loops?
 

doghouse

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Then there was the supercilious chap that started his own forum and then would not let anybody else in. In the end, there was only him and his Romanian general factotum left.He used to produce limited edition cloths with weights that were going out of fashion in the Victorian era.
To this day I haven't figured out if Alden was a put on or really like that. Every now and then I will pop in and see if anything is happening over there, but the level of activity is so low it makes us look like Glastonbury festival by comparison.
 

Thruth

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To this day I haven't figured out if Alden was a put on or really like that. Every now and then I will pop in and see if anything is happening over there, but the level of activity is so low it makes us look like Glastonbury festival by comparison.
I pop in to see if there is some of God's Tissue for sale
 

ASSHAT

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In 154.6 oz tissue I assume.

Does that fruit loop Frank Shattuck still post a bunch of unhinged spittle laced rants?
the shetland are all 13/14 oz, always has been. other things are heavier. he even has summer cloths now.
 

Thruth

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In 154.6 oz tissue I assume.

Does that fruit loop Frank Shattuck still post a bunch of unhinged spittle laced rants?
13ish as per usual. Scabal’s Shetland tweed was 13 ounces when they making it too
 

doghouse

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Wow, speaking of the way back machine, I popped over to FNB on a whim a minute ago, and Horace just happened to post for the first time in five years this morning. Something is in the air it seems.
 

fxh

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Wow, speaking of the way back machine, I popped over to FNB on a whim a minute ago, and Horace just happened to post for the first time in five years this morning. Something is in the air it seems.
Same for me. Popped in a few hours back and there is Horace summoning Vaclav.

the lockdown is feeding the virus in the mind. No?

what happened to the bloke on AAAC who was a trolley collector?
 

Kingstonian

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what happened to the bloke on AAAC who was a trolley collector?
Howard ? Supermarket cart in American English.

It was never established whether he was extremely earnest or a very clever prankster.

Howard posted today in the Interchange section.
 
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