Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Kingstonian

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Cordovan is always going to be fad, as it really is a winter shoe and doesn't bare scrutiny in the summer sun. As I've said before the only one worth buying is the Alden trad saddle oxford, a pre-WWII survivor and collegiate shoe. Mine will out live me, as I only wear them once or twice a year. It's a shoe that is weirdly not of much use at all.
The only three worth buying are the long wing, plain and Yuma - if you could still get it. Maybe a plain loafer too.

There can be rain issues with Cordovan too, which would limit Winter use.
 

Lobbster

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172
To Crompton's tattoo? It's on his blog and I'm pretty sure there was a post about it here, too.



I like shell, and it's very easy to care for - I find it to be much less work than calf.

However, you're certainly correct about ill-fitting shoes. I'm surprised at the number of people with high insteps and/or wide feet who insist on buying oxford-style shoes on chiselled lasts and end up looking very uncomfortable, with a massive "v" in the lacing.

Then, of course, the large number of very expensive, virtually unworn shoes for sale on various buying and selling fora is testament to how difficult it can be to judge fit when buying shoes on the internet.



Well said - although I must admit it's not something I ever expected to hear you say!
The chap with the three pairs of boots you mentioned. The tattoo made me pity him more than anything.

I'm fine with two or three pairs. Longwings and loafers are true classics but this love-in for boots in every colour imaginable is odd but that seems to be an American thing. Maybe it's workwear related.

Very true, same goes for sizing up with wide feet making them look like clown shoes. I suppose that's due to not living anywhere near a centre and doing everthing via online shopping without prior consultation. Living in the country I can symphatize with that but it seems dumb to drop thousands when you don't know how these shoes should fit.

They had a guy who got a new pair of EGs and ended up accidentially removing the antiquing with some pre-wearing routine involving renovateur. Their standards for new shoes are ridiculous. Who acutually cares? After a handful of wears they'll get scratched anyway.
 

Alterwelt

Active Member
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36
Then, of course, the large number of very expensive, virtually unworn shoes for sale on various buying and selling fora is testament to how difficult it can be to judge fit when buying shoes on the internet.
True.

Or how wearable certain styles are. I remember years ago, iGents got all giddy about double monk shoes and people rushed to buy them. They soon discovered that If you’re not used to it, they’re kinda tough to wear. Then you saw a bunch on sale on the fora.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,546
I am enjoying these shoe stories of igents, please keep them coming. The igents buying all these shoes are a different breed, I don't recognise any of them as shoomen. True shoomen are rare. These igent shoe buyers are not the old traditional shoomen who are born into it and have shoos in their blood. See, the old shoomen honed their tastes and experience over decades where-as these shoo-gents are johnny come lately types who are still wet behind the ears. They don't do things right because they are a novice in shoo matters.

You can't teach a shoomen old tricks, he needs to have shoos in his blood if he is going to do things right, only then will he be able to handle being part of the shoo world. See...igent shoomen (fake shoomen/little boy shoomen) are not big daddy shoomen, so they stuff things up because the shoo world of the BIG daddy is out of their league.

btw, l love every single shoe l own.

regards,
The Shoomen/.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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I am enjoying these shoe stories of igents, please keep them coming. The igents buying all these shoes are a different breed, I don't recognise any of them as shoomen. True shoomen are rare. These igent shoe buyers are not the old traditional shoomen who are born into it and have shoos in their blood. See, the old shoomen honed their tastes and experience over decades where-as these shoo-gents are johnny come lately types who are still wet behind the ears. They don't do things right because they are a novice in shoo matters.

You can't teach a shoomen old tricks, he needs to have shoos in his blood if he is going to do things right, only then will he be able to handle being part of the shoo world. See...igent shoomen (fake shoomen/little boy shoomen) are not big daddy shoomen, so they stuff things up because the shoo world of the BIG daddy is out of their league.

btw, l love every single shoe l own.

regards,
The Shoomen/.
The desire to have other makers creates a version of another maker’s shoe is one interesting aberration.

Have Vass do a version of the EG Galway and then call it a Valway. What’s worse

Have Meermin do one too but I don’t see them referring to them as Malways, which would indeed be appropriate.

Then there is no longer such a thing as EG dark oak because it is now DOAK.
 

Alterwelt

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The desire to have other makers creates a version of another maker’s shoe is one interesting aberration.

Have Vass do a version of the EG Galway and then call it a Valway. What’s worse

Have Meermin do one too but I don’t see them referring to them as Malways, which would indeed be appropriate.

Then there is no longer such a thing as EG dark oak because it is now DOAK.
I agree. Many times the iconic shoe for a particular shoemaker is result of their forte in that area, last, and finishing and it can be hard to transfer that.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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5,430
The only three worth buying are the long wing, plain and Yuma - if you could still get it. Maybe a plain loafer too.

There can be rain issues with Cordovan too, which would limit Winter use.
I don't remember any rain issues, but then again the time I was sporting them 2010/11/12/13 the winters were pretty cold here with more frost than rain.

My Alden No.8 cordovan longwings lasted about 24 months. I'm doing a lot better with their crepe sole and oiled leather sole shoes. Purchased the 3 pairs in 2014 and they're going strong, but only because I only bring them out in the summer.

The chap with the three pairs of boots you mentioned. The tattoo made me pity him more than anything.

I'm fine with two or three pairs. Longwings and loafers are true classics but this love-in for boots in every colour imaginable is odd but that seems to be an American thing. Maybe it's workwear related.
Unless you're fell walking, or living in a continental climate, the only boots you need are C&J's Coniston.
 

Thruth

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I agree. Many times the iconic shoe for a particular shoemaker is result of their forte in that area, last, and finishing and it can be hard to transfer that.
Do they go to online MTM or another tailor and ask for an A&S cut?

it is worse when they are getting Vass to channel their EG fetish. That would be like asking Maurice Sedwell to do Timothy Everest
 

Alterwelt

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Do they go to online MTM or another tailor and ask for an A&S cut?

it is worse when they are getting Vass to channel their EG fetish. That would be like asking Maurice Sedwell to do Timothy Everest
true. i think that is why EG stopped taking custom orders for different style permutations a while back. you had people with questionable taste picking odd leathers and lasts, then you have a bunch of EG branded franken-shoes in the wild.

some of the smaller boutique igent stores tend to do this too with clothing.
 

Mattrick

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95
Over a decade ago I had some Alden boots in #8 shell. I quickly sold them on as the stressed plastic look of the creases didn't appeal. Now that I'm seeing the whiskey variety I'm reassessing it as that colour looks nice.

True.

Or how wearable certain styles are. I remember years ago, iGents got all giddy about double monk shoes and people rushed to buy them. They soon discovered that If you’re not used to it, they’re kinda tough to wear. Then you saw a bunch on sale on the fora.
Tough in what way?
 

doghouse

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I don't remember any rain issues, but then again the time I was sporting them 2010/11/12/13 the winters were pretty cold here with more frost than rain.

My Alden No.8 cordovan longwings lasted about 24 months. I'm doing a lot better with their crepe sole and oiled leather sole shoes. Purchased the 3 pairs in 2014 and they're going strong, but only because I only bring them out in the summer.



Unless you're fell walking, or living in a continental climate, the only boots you need are C&J's Coniston.
The Coniston are a great boot. I think the Dubarry Kerry is about as good as it gets though. They just resoled mine gratis after 5 years of construction site use this past December.

20191214_145809.jpg
 

Alterwelt

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Over a decade ago I had some Alden boots in #8 shell. I quickly sold them on as the stressed plastic look of the creases didn't appeal. Now that I'm seeing the whiskey variety I'm reassessing it as that colour looks nice.



Tough in what way?
Over a decade ago I had some Alden boots in #8 shell. I quickly sold them on as the stressed plastic look of the creases didn't appeal. Now that I'm seeing the whiskey variety I'm reassessing it as that colour looks nice.



Tough in what way?
Double monks tend to draw attention to the shoe. So it looks the best when it’s worn with more subdued clothing. Also double monks look better in certain colours than others. For instance black single monk looks better than a black double monk. And lighter shades of dub monks are more challenging to wear because they draw attention to the feet and even more.

also there is the issue of lasts. Given it’s already somewhat dainty appearance, less chiseled lasts tend to look better.

that being said, dubmonks have a place in the wardrobe but it’s versatility is overrated.
 

The Shooman

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Double monks tend to draw attention to the shoe. So it looks the best when it’s worn with more subdued clothing. Also double monks look better in certain colours than others. For instance black single monk looks better than a black double monk. And lighter shades of dub monks are more challenging to wear because they draw attention to the feet and even more.

also there is the issue of lasts. Given it’s already somewhat dainty appearance, less chiseled lasts tend to look better.

that being said, dubmonks have a place in the wardrobe but it’s versatility is overrated.
Yes, double monk versatility is over-rated. Instinctively a d.m is a casual shoe, so it doesn't look good with a suit or really dressy clothes. A single monk is a lot more versatile. I like double monks a lot, but l rarely wear them because there are usually much better choices. The problem is that igents don't understand these types of things, nor do have their own style, they are prone to trends.
 

Mattrick

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I don't own a double monk, but I'm considering buying a pair. That's why I asked. I often see the merit of the conventions regarding shoes, but I can't say I agree in this case. Rather like how I dismiss the idea that loafers shouldn't be worn with a suit.

I think a single monk, with its it's often chunky buckle, looks far more casual than a double. Obviously this doesn't apply to a model with a small buckle in a 'swept back' design, such as the Vale by Lobb, which are the smartest of monks. Ultimately, a monk with a small buckle, whether single or double, looks fundamentally neat and smart to me.
 

fxh

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I have 3 pairs of brown double Monks I’ve had for years before they were Ubiquitous. Then when they were all around I stopped wearing them. Perhaps worn two of the pairs 3 times in last few years.

i have one very old pair of black single monks that no longer fit.
 

sirloin

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Only have one pair of single monks, bought ~15 years ago. A brown Westbury from Church. Sadly I never wear them, as I find it hard to fit into my current wardrobe. Should give them a try again. Might actually work with jeans and a shirt or sweater?

Doubles? Never. Saw a young guy in a black pair, just today, with a navy suit. Obviously it would have been better, with a nice black oxford. But having seen the trend, it did not look totally off either.
 

Mattrick

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I have 3 pairs of brown double Monks I’ve had for years before they were Ubiquitous. Then when they were all around I stopped wearing them. Perhaps worn two of the pairs 3 times in last few years.

i have one very old pair of black single monks that no longer fit.
Well, that's the thing. We might decide we like something after seeing examples around us, but we also might decide we dislike something due to negative associations or over-familiarity. This doesn't really say anything about the merits of the thing in question.
 

Arnathor

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I had two pair of double monks and only wore them 5-6 times and have since given them away. Too i-genty for my liking.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Yes, double monk versatility is over-rated. Instinctively a d.m is a casual shoe, so it doesn't look good with a suit or really dressy clothes. A single monk is a lot more versatile. I like double monks a lot, but l rarely wear them because there are usually much better choices. The problem is that igents don't understand these types of things, nor do have their own style, they are prone to trends.
Great point The Shooman The Shooman , as with any shoe or clothing for that matter, the presence of forethought and somber second thought separates users from losers. From time to time I get the urge to buy a double monk shoe, but it passes. I was considering a pair of black pebble grain Santoni Goodyear DM shoes recently but the feeling passed because I could not imagine wearing them.

1594233957230.png

I wear all of my monks, all but one pair are single strap. No strange colours, no strange leather. No giganda buckles. Maybe strange to some because they are boots but someone has to be a Bootman to balance Shooey being a Shooman.

MTO JMW double monk boots.
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Lobbs
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My local cordwainer

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Gravati

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Mattrick

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95
That's nothing. Because more is always better: the quad monk.
With this you have several options for leaving straps unfastened. Sprezzaturissimo! 2700-Salvatore-Ferragamo-Como-Monk-Strap-Shoe.jpg
 

Great White Snark

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Every single shoe and boot on this page is ugly as fuck and look like it belongs on a cripple. Bleeuuurrrrgggghhhhh. Thank Christ that ridiculous trend has seen its day.
 

fxh

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I meant to add that if for some reason I won Tatts (Australian lottery) I’d consider getting some plain black leather restrained single monks. I don’t think they are casual.
 

The Shooman

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I meant to add that if for some reason I won Tatts (Australian lottery) I’d consider getting some plain black leather restrained single monks. I don’t think they are casual.
if you win tatts have them made out of black alligator by BIG Johnny Lobb.

Yes, a black restrained single monk is one of the best shoes.
 

fxh

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if you win tatts have them made out of black alligator by BIG Johnny Lobb.

Yes, a black restrained single monk is one of the best shoes.
Black Alligator is too flash for me. A black single monk needs to be plain. No brogueing etc
 

Great White Snark

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If only there was a thread all about shoes. Maybe we could call it something like “The All Inclusive Shoe And Boot Thread”
That way we could all post about shoes in that thread and keep this one for making fun of that smug bald twat parvenu.
 

Great White Snark

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My mates were in a band on tour in Japan and came to believe that there was a Japanese equivalent of every western person in pop culture.
You’ve clearly stumbled across the Japanese Quentin Crisp!
 
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