Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
929
Yes, it reminds one how far Drake has fallen. From excellent tie maker to just another shitty brand for the weak and feeble minded.


It never was excellent, they scammed me with this uncentered and bad cutted shitte
Drakes crap 2 0.jpg
 

Ambrosius08

Well-Known Member
Messages
181
He’s probably emulating the breeches of his ancestors, and is thus wearing tights in their honour.
He would be more comfortable wearing a codpiece as well, though.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
6,566
I’m not a fan of cuffs on cords, but otherwise I like it.

For a tall slim guy he is a bit of a triangle shape in the torso. Isn’t he always banging on about how Italian soft shoulders suit him so much better than structured English suiting?
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
I’m not a fan of cuffs on cords, but otherwise I like it.
Agree. I have the same style suit (posted elsewhere), and I quite enjoy wearing it. No one ever accused me of teaching Geography whilst wearing it (yet).

Isn’t he always banging on about how Italian soft shoulders suit him so much better than structured English suiting?
Yeah and I frankly don't see it. I'd wear as much padding as humanly possible without looking like an 80's New Jersey Goombah.
 

Journeyman

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Supporter
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4,094
If I had these shoulders, I'd probably kill myself.

Well, I wouldn't go quite that far!

However, that's a very good point. Tailored clothing is meant to hide deficiencies while emphasising positives.

So, for someone with very sloping shoulders, that should mean having some padding, so as to build up the shoulders and give them some shape.

It's amazing to see how some of these menswear authorities insist on wearing very expensive tailoring that does them no favours at all, and actually highlights deficiencies such as Crompton's ski-jump shoulders.
 

belinmad

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Messages
983
Well, I wouldn't go quite that far!

However, that's a very good point. Tailored clothing is meant to hide deficiencies while emphasising positives.

So, for someone with very sloping shoulders, that should mean having some padding, so as to build up the shoulders and give them some shape.

It's amazing to see how some of these menswear authorities insist on wearing very expensive tailoring that does them no favours at all, and actually highlights deficiencies such as Crompton's ski-jump shoulders.

yup - I posted 3 pictures of him above, with varying degrees of padding. I don't know about others, but I think the one on the right is the one that favours him the most.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
yup - I posted 3 pictures of him above, with varying degrees of padding. I don't know about others, but I think the one on the right is the one that favours him the most.
And then some. He looks so much better. While Italian soft shouldered tailoring carries a certain element of comtempory cool about it, more so if you're not Italian, I'd just concede the fact it doesn't look good on me if I had Comp shoulder. Comp shoulder needs padding.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
And then some. He looks so much better. While Italian soft shouldered tailoring carries a certain element of comtempory cool about it, more so if you're not Italian, I'd just concede the fact it doesn't look good on me if I had Comp shoulder. Comp shoulder needs padding.

Agree. This is such a basic thing (get the cut that works for you), yet people insist on following trends, brands or influencers.
I use high waisted trousers because I have a big belly/torso. If I go low waist and belt I have a muffin top and shirts that are always coming out of the trousers. I try to stay away from padding/chest structure because otherwise I look like a balloon. People with my body type should do the same. People with Crompton's body type should do the opposite. Not that hard, really.
 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,870
The one on the right is Huntsman is it not. House style is a structured shoulder.

Interestingly (or not) Manton had a love for soft unstructured shoulders and he couldn't carry them off either. I remember him posting a picture of himself wearing a jacket made by a Washington DC tailor which was cut in a very similar style to Huntsman. It suited him, yet he disliked it.

Voxsartoria always looks nice in his lightly padded stuff, but he's a stocky bloke.

I also wear lightly padded shoulders as I don't need them building up.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
8,193
View attachment 41220

Positioning the pattern of the patch pockets in diagonal is particularly jarring to me.
''Oh yes, I'm quite the boring old fart...''
View attachment 41231
If I had these shoulders, I'd probably kill myself.
The balding ring of his hairline is not good either. There ain't no cure for that unless you can pull-off the Kojak look. Which with his head he can't hence, the attempt at a beard to balance it out.
So, for someone with very sloping shoulders, that should mean having some padding, so as to build up the shoulders and give them some shape.
To be fair, the amount of padding to support that would be in embarrassment territory.
The one on the right is Huntsman is it not. House style is a structured shoulder.
It is indeed, part of his weird Styrian style outfit he constructed in a fit of some Trapp family like madness. He clearly ditched the bottom half of the catastrophe.
 
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formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,870
''Oh yes, I'm quite the boring old fart...''

The balding ring of his hairline is not good either. There ain't no cure for that unless you can pull-off the Kojak look. Which with his head he can't hence, the attempt at a beard to balance it out.

To be fair, the amount of padding to support that would be in embarrassment territory.

It is indeed, part of his weird Styrian style outfit he constructed in a fit of some Trapp family like madness. He clearly ditched the bottom half of the catastrophe.
I think he had plus 4s made with it. Could be wrong as I don't forensically analyse his website.
 

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
716
There’s someone who posts regularly on SF (PSB?) with single button peak lapel suits and gauntlet cuffs. Pants are always too short. Someone made a mildly critical comment that he’d look better with more structured shoulders as his current style inverted the desirable V-shaped silhouette making him look soft around the middle. That was met with people lining up to defend the fella and the critic had to take some shit.
This demonstrates to me how pointless it is trying to offer even mild criticism to certain individuals. Look at all the acolytes Cromp has lionising him and hanging on his every word. He presents himself as a sartorial oracle and yet never seems able to mitigate the exact and in his case blindingly obvious reason why bespoke trumps RTW in the first place. I know he’s probably not paying but a normal customer paying several thousand dollars / pounds for a bespoke suit ought to be able to get the benefit that tailoring can mask these physical deficiencies.
 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,870
There’s someone who posts regularly on SF (PSB?) with single button peak lapel suits and gauntlet cuffs. Pants are always too short. Someone made a mildly critical comment that he’d look better with more structured shoulders as his current style inverted the desirable V-shaped silhouette making him look soft around the middle. That was met with people lining up to defend the fella and the critic had to take some shit.
This demonstrates to me how pointless it is trying to offer even mild criticism to certain individuals. Look at all the acolytes Cromp has lionising him and hanging on his every word. He presents himself as a sartorial oracle and yet never seems able to mitigate the exact and in his case blindingly obvious reason why bespoke trumps RTW in the first place. I know he’s probably not paying but a normal customer paying several thousand dollars / pounds for a bespoke suit ought to be able to get the benefit that tailoring can mask these physical deficiencies.
Pet Shop Boys on StyleForvm? Oud ave thunk it...!!!
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
There’s someone who posts regularly on SF (PSB?) with single button peak lapel suits and gauntlet cuffs. Pants are always too short. Someone made a mildly critical comment that he’d look better with more structured shoulders as his current style inverted the desirable V-shaped silhouette making him look soft around the middle. That was met with people lining up to defend the fella and the critic had to take some shit.
This demonstrates to me how pointless it is trying to offer even mild criticism to certain individuals. Look at all the acolytes Cromp has lionising him and hanging on his every word. He presents himself as a sartorial oracle and yet never seems able to mitigate the exact and in his case blindingly obvious reason why bespoke trumps RTW in the first place. I know he’s probably not paying but a normal customer paying several thousand dollars / pounds for a bespoke suit ought to be able to get the benefit that tailoring can mask these physical deficiencies.

In this forum the biased critics are the overwhelming majority. I'm not a Crompton's acolyte, but I like his style and acknowledge him good taste.
And if you have sloping shoulders, better to accept it than using padding to change your natural frame.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
And if you have sloping shoulders, better to accept it than using padding to change your natural frame.
Why is this better? If you have a bigger belly, should you have high raise trousers to mask it, or accept it and have a muffin top? If you have a hump, should you also accept it, or have your tailor try to work around it? If you have one leg shorter than the other, should you have your shoemaker accommodate for it, or limp?

A significant benefit of bespeaking clothes is to make you look better, mask and lessen imperfections so you feel more confident.

Choosing a cut that goes the opposite way because it’s trendier, feels more sophisticated, or helps you peddle your business is disingenuous at best and most likely poor judgement.

This type of thinking is also common in places forums like SF and sometimes here, where you see people buy RTW or MTM, more interested in showing off the brand they have, believing that gives them credibility , instead of focusing on what looks good on them and more importantly, what doesnt
 
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