Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

I’d rather see a colourful pic like this with a bit of imagination shown (despite the misfires) than the sea of navy and charcoal you get with US and UK cabinet ministers.
 
It just hit me that the Spanish type of lapel (lower gorge, kinda rounded lapel, and with a more open notch) is almost similar to 80's and 90's Oxxford. In fact, it's similar to a ton of suits from that era. Very outdated today.
 
TheUntermensch said:
All I see there is a sea of sky blues and light greys, and a sea of blue ties.
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That's politicians for you: rock 'n roll for ugly people.

I thought there's a reason why celebs and politicians generally sport plain or simple colours and pattern as too complex checks and the likes use to be an issue with cameras and video tape.
 
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Scherensammler said:
Mechanics/ car dealerships in Germany charge around 100,- Euros per hour. Add to that new parts at dealership prices and you get into the range of a nice new suit. Depending on what needs to be done, of course.
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I paid 50 euros/hour on unnoficial Maserati dealer before being lumpen. Repainting a full car was 2000e instead of 6000e with the exact can of paint.

One of the few Ferrari-Bentley-Porsche approved mechanichs who doesn´t charge 150 euros per hour as the official fee is.

Humillating thing was that normal not highend brands was 30e/h on the exact place with the same mechanics.

Now I am happy to never pay the metro 1 euro bill and run when the supervicer comes.
 
Jupiter said:
For your info H&S 100% cashmere fabric in their Overcoats bunch costs 300/350 euros per meter.

What is your view on Sastreria Serna? Another spanish untailor?
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Ostreria el Sarna

sarna

  1. nombre femenino
    Enfermedad contagiosa de la piel causada por un parásito, llamado arador de la sarna, que se introduce debajo de esta y que se alimenta de las células superficiales; se caracteriza por la presencia de una multitud de vesículas que producen picor.
 
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What's the deal with every Asian iGent copying or wearing Liverano-style suits and jackets, is it the official uniform over there? Some of the coats start to look like morning coats from front.
 
Danish dressing up poster who was mentioned on Ask Andy. Not so many of these around now apart from the people of Fedora Lounge. Cardcaptor Charlie was the last one I recall - used to make his own kit for top hat and tails. All dressed up but nowhere to go. Extra parts in costume dramas is probably his best bet.

https://www.instagram.com/haethaenstat/
 
Kingstonian said:
Danish dressing up poster who was mentioned on Ask Andy. Not so many of these around now apart from the people of Fedora Lounge. Cardcaptor Charlie was the last one I recall - used to make his own kit for top hat and tails. All dressed up but nowhere to go. Extra parts in costume dramas is probably his best bet.

https://www.instagram.com/haethaenstat/
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I like how his stuff looks and fits, but it's indeed too cosplayish and I hope he dresses up for the pics just as a hobby and doesn't actually go anywhere dressed like that.
 
Kingstonian said:
Danish dressing up poster who was mentioned on Ask Andy. Not so many of these around now apart from the people of Fedora Lounge. Cardcaptor Charlie was the last one I recall - used to make his own kit for top hat and tails. All dressed up but nowhere to go. Extra parts in costume dramas is probably his best bet.

https://www.instagram.com/haethaenstat/
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I don't mind some of these blokes when they are serious and go hard. They can do a service is showing others how it used to be and what these things actually look like in real life. Many of them do a real service by archiving stuff.
 
TheUntermensch said:
He does.
http://haethaenstat.blogspot.fr/p/photos-of-my-attire.html

And it's doesn't look too shabby either. It's a lot less cosplay than the Rubinacci types.
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And in IT Support, no less.

I can only image what the guys in Bangalore think upon seeing this guy for the first time over skype, in his chalkstripe DB suit from the 40's.

But yeah, seems like his fits are nice. Some good outfits, but he looks like an extra for some period drama.
 
fxh said:
I don't mind some of these blokes when they are serious and go hard. They can do a service is showing others how it used to be and what these things actually look like in real life. Many of them do a real service by archiving stuff.
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They're not archiving it, they're out there wearing it for real in some reverse-archival anthropology technique. Dressing like an Edwardian to see how it works today. The problem being that despite the good cuts, he will stand out for undue attention as a bit of an eccentric loon. You can get away with one attribute, especially in IT, but not two together.

dreamspace said:
And in IT Support, no less.

I can only image what the guys in Bangalore think upon seeing this guy for the first time over skype, in his chalkstripe DB suit from the 40's.

But yeah, seems like his fits are nice. Some good outfits, but he looks like an extra for some period drama.
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Aye, put a fez on him and he could get the part of Dr Watson:
images.webp
 
dreamspace said:
And in IT Support, no less.

I can only image what the guys in Bangalore think upon seeing this guy for the first time over skype, in his chalkstripe DB suit from the 40's.

But yeah, seems like his fits are nice. Some good outfits, but he looks like an extra for some period drama.
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Amateur dramatics might be a good outlet. Some people like dressing up. Steam punk types do similar but they mostly all look the same.
 
Scherensammler said:
Bum freezer jacket for chubby guy, just like the master is wearing:



The original:

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I don't understand how it is possible for lapels to buckle that way when just slightly lifting an arm. Not even my worst fitting RTW jackets do that. Though in this case they seem to buckle even standing still...
 
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Paris olololo. That room is kitted out for Tuson Arizona or some other southwestern retirement community. Or one of Saddam Hussein’s Bagdad love nests. Must be a one of the dreaded Parisian no go zones where that guy is serving sandwich grec shawarma.
 
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rdiaz said:
I don't understand how it is possible for lapels to buckle that way when just slightly lifting an arm. Not even my worst fitting RTW jackets do that. Though in this case they seem to buckle even standing still...
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Look how beautiful the lapels sit on ye olde TEACHER when his jacket is not buttoned:



What I don't get is how #influencers can praise this awful stuff. Hardly anything he makes fits at least reasonably well.
All his stuff is too tight in the fronts and in some cases it's so obvious I get the feeling ye olde TEACHER must be half blind and/ or knows f*ck all about cutting...
 
there's no fricken way he can button that thing up... and isn't that black, burnt tyre smelling fussing on the tall man's lapels?
 
rdiaz said:
there's no fricken way he can button that thing up... and isn't that black, burnt tyre smelling fussing on the tall man's lapels?
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Not sure, but some tailors put fine cotton or lining on the lapel part to make the pad stitching sink in so it doesn't show on the outside (can happen with delicate cloths in linen and/ or certain colours).
Our TrioInfernale™ should know more...
 
Scherensammler said:
Not sure, but some tailors put fine cotton or lining on the lapel part to make the pad stitching sink in so it doesn't show on the outside (can happen with delicate cloths in linen and/ or certain colours).
Our TrioInfernale™ should know more...
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Hope so. Though looking at how this stuff fits I wouldn't be surprised to see fusing...
 
Scherensammler said:
Look how beautiful the lapels sit on ye olde TEACHER when his jacket is not buttoned:



What I don't get is how #influencers can praise this awful stuff. Hardly anything he makes fits at least reasonably well.
All his stuff is too tight in the fronts and in some cases it's so obvious I get the feeling ye olde TEACHER must be half blind and/ or knows f*ck all about cutting...
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It raises a lot of questions when you know he is the former head cutter of Liverano. 3000 uros for such a crap? Super tight cut and also super short. Is it a florentine specialty?
 
rdiaz said:
Hope so. Though looking at how this stuff fits I wouldn't be surprised to see fusing...
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I don't think there is any fusing. The torso and waist are cutted too tight. Bad measurements. On the danish the closing button is way too high and the jacket way too short. We had this discussion with our german scottish friend few months ago. But his intouchables customers are certainly happy with the product. Notice the creases on his thigh. He'll explode the pant after few months.
 
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Jupiter said:
It raises a lot of questions when you know he is the former head cutter of Liverano. 3000 uros for such a crap? Super tight cut and also super short. Is it a florentine specialty?
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You've got to be kidding me. Those monstrosities come from the same cutter as this?
e1487c0fb296723c580e2e180ce427ca.jpg

What happened to him?
 
A one man shop getting too busy. Too many customers and too much travel for the fellow.

And here I thought, it was Paone who was too old to hold his scissors.
 
rdiaz said:
You've got to be kidding me. Those monstrosities come from the same cutter as this?
e1487c0fb296723c580e2e180ce427ca.jpg

What happened to him?
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Maybe old man liverano actually does something to keep his inferior minimum wage employees, mainly immigrant and southern Italian scum, in check.

At least the fat man’s jacket looks very clean without pulls but the cutaway is quite feminine. This is not a look for important elegant men. Perfect for China friends and 3rd world pitti trash.
 
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