Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

FriendCustomer said:
you would be perfect for napoli tailoring then. button hole stitching from napoli reminds me of your handbags.
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Careful

NSFW

Hope i dont get banned for this

and not for touchy touchy people!

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Now to calm you down

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robertito said:
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Just read this. My tailor does a milanese buttonhole for 10 Euros. I saw him a Caruso jacket and the video Darren did and voila. Admittedly the first one wasn't very good, but he said that he only needed practice, now they are far better. Can't London tailors do the same for let's say 50 squid?
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Of course they can. And it needn't cost 50 squid either. The whole point of bespoke, which Crompers misses, is you go with your set of requirements, and then you reach an agreement, like grown-ups.

And if you have a particular 'style' in mind, you ask for it, within reason, like grown-ups (otherwise you can fvck off of to Vesuvius). Crompers would lose his wager.

Whoever said it's about whoring himself to the latest iGent vogue (can't be arsed to read through the comments above) is absolutely spot on. Mark me, in five years' time, those of us who weather the storm and stand by British tailoring will be vindicated. Everyone will be asking for machine-stitched plain buttonholes. Until the next fashion cycle, when Cifonelli introduces velcro. Pitti 103 will resonate to the sound of ripping (jackets AND flies).

Here, have a look at this.
 
TheUntermensch said:
Actually he's been shitting on British style for about five years now. It's all Napoli this, and soft shoulder that, and forever going on about how British tailors cannot do "style".

Sometimes I wonder if there's a backstory to it. Rumour has it he was turned away with a flea in his ear by some of the Savile Row houses when his demands for free suits got too outrageous.

Now for a Pic Of The Day.
View attachment 27715
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There's a whiff of truth in that, but also you have to factor in the Brit love of places that have much better summers than at home as somehow more desirable and an idyll to escape to in a permanent enchanted state of endless summer. Everything is somehow eternally better than the cold, drab and grey skies of Blighty. So I think it's a bit more than being to sling his hook by the tailors in London. He's presenting something else, the touch of the exotic to English eyes.

Thruth said:
British tailoring does not carry the current wow factor that Italian and other tailoring does especially with the IG and Igent set.
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That much is true, but British tailoring does not seek a quick fix and a wow. Whilst in its worse forms I think it can be dull and boring, when executed right it has more of an aristocratic feel in the very best landed gentry and city gent way. It's not a style for the common man, because it's not intended to be.
 
Thruth said:
British tailoring does not carry the current wow factor that Italian and other tailoring does especially with the IG and Igent set.

If Craptom is going to maintain his style influencer influence he has to whore himself to what the current rage is.

As for being able to deal with criticism in the comments he refuses to agree.

Even Sarto busted him on calling Langa ta Tanga shirts shit and then better than the Kiton.
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Mmmm.

Shouldn't an #influencer be influencing rather than following?
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
It's not a style for the common man, because it's not intended to be.
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I have to disagree there. British tailoring and the British style has always been about practicality. The modern suit itself originated from country attire, as opposed to city and court attire, which had followed the French style since Charles II. Then Beau Brumell cleaned it up even further, and used a country palette of blacks, browns and greys, plus boots (just fancy that!).

Look at this way: British style takes the attire of the common man, and elevates it to aristocracy. Then the common man tries to look his best and imitates the aristocracy. It's a symbiotic relationship.

And let's be honest, so-called Italian style wasn't that much different until the iGents burst onto the scene. I mean the style all over the Western world, right up to the Eastern Approaches and unto Vladivostok, was pretty much standard: shirt, tie, jacket, trousers, socks, shoes. The iGents had to mess with it, so it became turtle-neck, crumpled jacket, ankle-length trousers with massive turn-ups, no socks, slippers, an overcoat (in summer, and indoors), and clutch-bag.

Molto cutting edge style.
 
formby said:
Mmmm.

Shouldn't an #influencer be influencing rather than following?
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That is why I wrote what I wrote.

He is late to the party. The Italian influence began well before he began blogging.

So he is not leading anything.

He is merely channeling.

Anyone who knows anything is not influenced by him.
 
Doesn't he 'work' for The Rake? (a misnomer if ever there was one. Can you imagine any of them whoring, boozing & gambling the night away? Thought not) What is the mode de jour there? This is where we'll find the answers...
 
Thruth said:
That is why I wrote what I wrote.

He is late to the party. The Italian influence began well before he began blogging.

So he is not leading anything.

He is merely channeling.

Anyone who knows anything is not influenced by him.
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So what you're actually saying is...
 
formby said:
So what you're actually saying is...
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HE IS A FUCKING TACKY SCAMMER WITH DEEP NARCISSISM WHO SHOULD BE PROYECTED ON THE WALLS OF THE UNI FOR DEEP ANALICE. HE HAS BEEN LANGA-TA-TANGA-ED BY TACKY UNSHIRT MAKER AND INFLUENCED BY MONEY & POWER LIKE A BANKSTER WHO STOLE MY CONDO DEVELOPMENT
 
Thruth said:
HE IS A FUCKING TACKY SCAMMER WITH DEEP NARCISSISM WHO SHOULD BE PROYECTED ON THE WALLS OF THE UNI FOR DEEP ANALYSIS. HE HAS BEEN LANGA-TA-TANGA-ED BY TACKY UNSHIRT MAKER AND INFLUENCED BY MONEY & POWER LIKE A BANKSTER WHO STOLE MY CONDO DEVELOPMENT
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Chill, embrace your inner Lobster...
 
I don't know why the iGents are circle jerking so hard over the Neapolitan style. When it comes to Italian suits, I own roughly 50% Neapolitan style, and 50% Roman style (Brioni, Battistoni, etc.), and more than often I favor the Roman style. Why? Because I have narrower shoulders, and prominent traps. The (slightly) more constructed style, with sharp lines and a more extended shoulders looks much better on me, than very soft Neapolitan style.

I've seen a lot of iGents that would look much better with more constructed shoulders. In fact, if you have narrow shoulders, or the illusion (wide hips) of it, go with English or Roman (or Milanese).
 
Narrow, rounder shoulders where the arm protrudes much further than the shoulder require some shoulder extension.
Unless you want to look like an egg with a blanket, that is.
 
formby said:
Doesn't he 'work' for The Rake? (a misnomer if ever there was one. Can you imagine any of them whoring, boozing & gambling the night away? Thought not) What is the mode de jour there? This is where we'll find the answers...
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There's a strong homoerotic vibe in the editorial team, even though most of them have supermodel-standard girlfriends. I'll leave it at that.
 
TheUntermensch said:
I have to disagree there. British tailoring and the British style has always been about practicality. The modern suit itself originated from country attire, as opposed to city and court attire, which had followed the French style since Charles II. Then Beau Brumell cleaned it up even further, and used a country palette of blacks, browns and greys, plus boots (just fancy that!).

Look at this way: British style takes the attire of the common man, and elevates it to aristocracy. Then the common man tries to look his best and imitates the aristocracy. It's a symbiotic relationship.
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Oh yes, it goes without saying up until the last 30 years or so, the sharpest dressers in the UK were very much a mixture of the upper echelons and the striving working classes on their way to better things. The upper class and working class in the UK have/had much in common in brutalized upbringings.
 
formby said:
Doesn't he 'work' for The Rake? (a misnomer if ever there was one. Can you imagine any of them whoring, boozing & gambling the night away? Thought not) What is the mode de jour there? This is where we'll find the answers...
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It'd be a lot cooler if they did.
 
I actually quite like some of the stuff in The Rake. I nearly threw up in my mouth when I saw him and his disgusting mis-shaped giant bald skull peering out at me from the pages recently, wearing his ubiquitous smug, shit-eating grin.
A face I could never tire of punching.
 
Great White Snark said:
I actually quite like some of the stuff in The Rake. I nearly threw up in my mouth when I saw him and his disgusting mis-shaped giant bald skull peering out at me from the pages recently, wearing his ubiquitous smug, shit-eating grin.
A face I could never tire of punching.
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Youre my man.
 
I'm the first one to avoid judging anyone by physical appearance
but seriously, I wonder why does he look like that
 
No worries man. The jacket looks nice in person and the outfit worked w/ the pants and shoes, which aren't visible. I'm happy :-)
 
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