Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

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Dirnelli (Dearnell from now on?) went to Phillips Exeter and Brown? Today I learned.

Shit, seems like all the #menswear big shots are Ivy league and Oxbridge grads. No wonder I don't have any followers.
 
Friendcustomer is not a prole and is a regular at eyes wide shut type orgies. This is well known. He attends in a Maximus mask and a vicuna robe.
 
aristoi bcn said:
I saw it. Granata's stuff posted in IG is much better than Crapdano. Did they both studied at Kiton's?
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Not very difficult. Crapdano is absolute crap. #nokiton# no. Granata is a provincial guy who's worked for many sartorias as a little hand (Solito, Formosa, Dalcuore, Orazio, Carfora) before launching his business. He works with his brother and a cousin. His main strenght is his mastering of the collar shape and shoulders. He has rather a structured stile for a neapolitan, loving rope shoulders, light padding and low scollatura. At the beginning he cutted a very slim and uncomfortable quadratura which I dislike but he is very adaptative. So, if you ask him a classic cut, he will understand and do it well. The key to obtain a good result is a cristal clear communication during the first contact and avoiding cross-communications during the process.
 
When you’re getting fitted but all you can think about is orphan children who have to wear RTW suits to Easter mass

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Crompton still visiting tailors in every village in Italy.

Because they all have ‘different styles’.

When posters suggest he visits the provinces in England he says they are all in the ‘Savile Row tradition’.

‘Yes but they are cheaper in the provinces and do excellent work’ cry the readers.

‘So what, it is only a few grand difference and - anyway - lots of my readers are overseas. They could not be expected to travel the vast mileage from London to the provinces’ says Crompton

‘Let’s have an end to this unnecessary obsession with cost’
 
Kingstonian said:
Crompton still visiting tailors in every village in Italy.

Because they all have ‘different styles’.

When posters suggest he visits the provinces in England he says they are all in the ‘Savile Row tradition’.

‘Yes but they are cheaper in the provinces and do excellent work’ cry the readers.

‘So what, it is only a few grand difference and - anyway - lots of my readers are overseas. They could not be expected to travel the vast mileage from London to the provinces’ says Crompton

‘Let’s have an end to this unnecessary obsession with cost’
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Even worse
According to him all different tailors within the one same town got vastly different styles
 
Kingstonian said:
Crompton still visiting tailors in every village in Italy.

Because they all have ‘different styles’.

When posters suggest he visits the provinces in England he says they are all in the ‘Savile Row tradition’.

‘Yes but they are cheaper in the provinces and do excellent work’ cry the readers.

‘So what, it is only a few grand difference and - anyway - lots of my readers are overseas. They could not be expected to travel the vast mileage from London to the provinces’ says Crompton

‘Let’s have an end to this unnecessary obsession with cost’
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I don't think Italy's cheap on the tailoring/decent menswear front. Prices are exactly the same as here I find.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
I don't think Italy's cheap on the tailoring/decent menswear front. Prices are exactly the same as here I find.
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Prices Crompton quotes for Italian clothes do not seem cheap. Maybe he gets ‘bunga bunga’ included in the deal?

British readers are the ones claiming that they can get less expensive, but comparable to Savile Row, kit by travelling half an hour to St Albans. But Cromps is not interested. Claims of military and naval tailoring styles also fall on deaf ears. And anyway he would have to visit at ‘least eight of them’. The prospect of eight commissions in the British provinces apparently horrifies him.
 
Kingstonian said:
Prices Crompton quotes for Italian clothes do not seem cheap. Maybe he gets ‘bunga bunga’ included in the deal?

British readers are the ones claiming that they can get less expensive, but comparable to Savile Row, kit by travelling half an hour to St Albans. But Cromps is not interested. Claims of military and naval tailoring styles also fall on deaf ears. And anyway he would have to visit at ‘least eight of them’. The prospect of eight commissions in the British provinces apparently horrifies him.
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He falls into that English tradition of seeing the exotic and therefore worthwhile overseas. Except he's not really dandy enough to make it work for him. I've been there myself, but that was when I was 24. When you're twice as old and been there and done it, you can't really get away with the new sartorial frontier as some dusty Tuscany or Sicilian town. J.P. Gaul had the same affliction. Can you remember his posts when he was visiting Italy and having his morning cappuccino, he was like a lyrical dog on heat.
 
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