Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

[Untermensch]

Between extreme unstructured spalle rags camicie and extreme padded aerofoil shoulders, I don't know which is worse.

Be that as it may. To business:

He must do be doing it on purpose. There can be no other explanation.

 

[FriendCustomer]

Is that a Cifonelli, or someone trying to do a Cifonelli?

Here I am in a heavily padded Cifo suit ( I also have a very lightly padded). It is not what I would call a pagoda shoulder.

Please feel free to keep all these photos of me in the disagreeable thread

 

[Untermensch]

There's a lot more drape than the usual Cifonelli. Did you have to put your foot down, or were they accommodating?

The end result is quite pleasing. And a lot better than the usual Cifonelli house style.

 

[FriendCustomer]

There's a lot more drape than the usual Cifonelli. Did you have to put your foot down, or were they accommodating?

The end result is quite pleasing. And a lot better than the usual Cifonelli house style.

Very accommodating. They are open to trying almost anything and will work on it until it is right if the client is not happy. Considering the price, one would hope that is always the case. I actually didn't specifically ask for drape, but made it clear at the fittings that I did not want the tight fit. Honestly most tailors I've used give me a bit of drape, I think it has something to do with my shape more than anything else. I am not a blogger or brand rep so it didn't phase them at all. There current more extreme house style is relatively recent and more of a marketing thing I imagine. I probably got their standard old man cut like Jean d'Ormesson, or at least that's my fantasy. They also cut extremely uncharacteristic suits for Ralph Lauren and I imagine others. I wouldn't use them again, but that's only because of the price. You could most certainly also get a middle of the road Savile Row suit from C&M. I know a long term client of Roy Chittleborough who gets suits that look nothing like the Joe Morgan insta house style, even after Chittleborough retired.

 

[Jupiter]

the idea that such an extreme level of padding (or any padding) is necessary to construct this type of shoulder is absurd. i have a DB suit which has a similar style shoulder with absolutely no padding, granted it is less extereme. All is done with cutting, canvas, iron and wadding at the sleeve head.

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here is a more extreme example, not me, from the same tailor, also with no padding :

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Very Gianni Carracuti style.

 

[Jupiter]

Shiller gunfight at the Parisian Gentleman Corral. Where you learn shilling is not the appropriate word. Please use sampling from now on.

 

[Untermensch]

Ah, they're reacting to that negative review on Amazon.

One still wonders where Jacomet makes his money though. He doesn't seem to have a job aside from blogging and writing a book every four years.

 

[Scherensammler]

Ah, they're reacting to that negative review on Amazon.

One still wonders where Jacomet makes his money though. He doesn't seem to have a job aside from blogging and writing a book every four years.

Saw a video with him. He had a high income job before he started his latest venture. According to him in that video he asked God what to do, because he was at the end of his rope.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Saw a video with him. He had a high income job before he started his latest venture. According to him in that video he asked God what to do, because he was at the end of his rope.

And with the good Lord telling him how to screw you over on the deal.....

 

[Scherensammler]

Here you go:

 

[InstaHate]

olo Dick Johnson 8===D

 

[spencer096]

how i feel when laughing at dick johnson jokes

 

[Thruth]

 

[Fatcat]

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[Lumpen]

Here you go:

I only see here a wannabe tacky histrionic and the picture Wikyfrikypedia should feature when you search for Naricissist Personality Disorder.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

I only see here a wannabe tacky histrionic and the picture Wikyfrikypedia should feature when you search for Naricissist Personality Disorder.

Anyone in Europe who's adopted a native North American hair style should automatically be sectioned until proven otherwise.

 

[Jupiter]

Pompous Pompeo.

 

[Scherensammler]

Pompous Pompeo.

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Maybe it's his name, but he always looks like a member of a Mafia™ family. Very Soprano...

 

[spencer096]

Pompous Pompeo.

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[Jupiter]

Maybe it's his name, but he always looks like a member of a Mafia™ family. Very Soprano...

CIA™ is a big family. As a famous sociologist said: "A State is a mafia who has succeeded". Kudos to the Langley analyst who read us.

 

[InstaHate]

My first reaction was, ha, this fellow is clearly looking for the nearest playground

But then I was overwhelmed by denim

I bet he is from
The French side and not the German side.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

My first reaction was, ha, this fellow is clearly looking for the nearest playground
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But then I was overwhelmed by denim

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I bet he is from
The French side and not the German side.

French side most definitely.....there's a little bit of Macron in there trying to get out....all he needs now is to marry his mother as front to show how normal he is.

 

[Pauly Chase]

My first reaction was, ha, this fellow is clearly looking for the nearest playground
View attachment 30378

But then I was overwhelmed by denim

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I bet he is from
The French side and not the German side.

That jean hem. He is rocking it.

 

[Lumpen]

Sartoria Tofani ha actualizado su foto del perfil.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Sartoria Tofani ha actualizado su foto del perfil.

There goes an earnest young fellow....

 

[Buitenlander]

Did they join the Swedish Hells Angels? Wolfpack? Regare?

 

[Jupiter]

View attachment 30416Did they join the Swedish Hells Angels? Wolfpack? Regare?

Very Indian decoration with an authentic Indo-European at the forefront. Love it.

 

[aristoi bcn]

View attachment 30416Did they join the Swedish Hells Angels? Wolfpack? Regare?

The green jacket on the lefts is very well cut. I guess from Pino Peluso.

 

[Jupiter]

The green jacket on the lefts is very well cut. I guess from Pino Peluso.

Yes it is.

 

[Thruth]

Riveting dialogue

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Yes it is.

I didn't know the murderer who was convicted of killing Pier Paolo Pasolini turned to bespoke tailoring?

 

[InstaHate]

Inching ever closer towards overalls.

 

[LelandJ]

Aborted male corset, progress I see.

 

[Jupiter]

Riveting dialogue

For sure.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Inching ever closer towards overalls.
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What is that for? Honest question. Why would you want that?

 

[FriendCustomer]

What is that for? Honest question. Why would you want that?

its a fishtail back. it is the traditional way pants are cut for suspenders. The one in question is a bit exaggerated but it is not all that far off from what you get on the row. Normally they are never seen as one is typically wearing a vest and jacket with them.

 

[Scherensammler]

its a fishtail back. it is the traditional way pants are cut for suspenders. The one in question is a bit exaggerated but it is not all that far off from what you get on the row. Normally they are never seen as one is typically wearing a vest and jacket with them.

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but this type of trousers is traditionally worn with braces. So there is no need for a skin tight fit.

 

[FriendCustomer]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this type of trousers is traditionally worn with braces. So there is no need for a skin tight fit.

agree 100%. do you not make them in scotland?

 

[Untermensch]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this type of trousers is traditionally worn with braces. So there is no need for a skin tight fit.

True, but you don't want any excess fabric round the seat, either. It looks ugly. Ideally, you want to achieve a straight drape down from the hips (that's the widest point of the arse, just above the gluteal fold) to the heels. Excess fabrix won't give you that razor-sharp laser-straight line.

Three photos with the navy trousers are a splendid example of good tailoring.

 

[InstaHate]

Overalls are basically high waisted trousers with built in suspenders. I’m telling you, this is the next step in #menswear

More signs of what is coming: