Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

A Foo and his money are soon parted.
tumblr_nejixhv8kg1rugtzko2_1280.webp
 
WTF was happening there?
Is this the DIY method of adjusting the spread of a shirt collar?
I musta missed this first time around!
 
Last edited:
Great White Snark said:
WTC was happening there?
Is this the DIY method of adjusting the spread of a shirt collar?
I musta missed this first time around!
Click to expand...


I do not want to show off, not a narcissist, but as you know, I studied shirtmaking and high tailoring in Naples.

Never seen this "technique" of cutting the lapels of the collar on the neck of the client, also it seems way dangerous.

The only thing that comes to my mind is a neurotic client asking for a different angle of the collar, and the shirtmaker doing that on the fly to make happy the neurotic, already knowing by far this kind of clientele ( just acting to get the cash) instead of just remaking the collar from scratch from pattern soft paper.

It seems a test shirt based on maybe a regular size or maybe wrong measures, note the huge corrections with pins the shirt has everyplace. It´s way more difficult to get a good result adapting wrong measures as on that pic than doing properly from the start that just very small corrections would have to be done, and sometimes even comes perfect without needing to correct.

Who was this shirtmaker? Mattuozzo? She is pretty good.

Who knows what idiotic thing this dumbdick would have asked to the shirtmaker? Just reading him is a complete nonsense and erratic neurotic behaviour.

That other Floris degenerate here was asking me idiotic things on ties that by any reason correspond for ties, until my deep patience ended and I kicked him out.

I remember a wedding case I readed in the newspaper, there is a lumpen tradition of cutting the tie in pieces and ask cash for each piece on weddings. Low class savage friends of the just married guy came with a chainsaw to cut the tie, and ended cutting the neck of the guy and he beheaded. This is for real.
 
Last edited:
Proof that bespoke shirtmaking at Charvet is100% handwork. Picture shows head cutter Catherine at work.
tumblr_nejixhv8kg1rugtzko1_1280.webp
 
Last edited:
The left side looks like an actual collar - the right side like circumcised garbage.

Typical that he's slimming it up all over, too. Igents have no idea how shirts should fit.
 
jba803 said:
What’s wrong with the suit?
Click to expand...
More like "what's right with it."

Shoulders are extended and sloping, a bad combo. You can see the seam hanging off of his left arm.

Too slim in the waist, and the buttoning point is too high for the trouser rise. The trousers themselves look like low-to-medium rise with belt loops on a non-slim body, so the right leg is buckling in the back. Trouser taper is too aggressive, so the bottoms bunch instead of break. It looks like it also has that awful 3-2 roll with the lapels fully pressed. That, combined with the buttons, makes the jacket all too short. He was probably told that this would make him seem taller, but instead it makes him look like a truncated puddle.

That's not even considering the arms, which are too slim and already wrinkled. Wtf kind of material is that, anyway? Divorce grey cotton/wool in a non-offensive weight?
 
Darth Bane said:
More like "what's right with it."

Shoulders are extended and sloping, a bad combo. You can see the seam hanging off of his left arm.

Too slim in the waist, and the buttoning point is too high for the trouser rise. The trousers themselves look like low-to-medium rise with belt loops on a non-slim body, so the right leg is buckling in the back. Trouser taper is too aggressive, so the bottoms bunch instead of break. It looks like it also has that awful 3-2 roll with the lapels fully pressed. That, combined with the buttons, makes the jacket all too short. He was probably told that this would make him seem taller, but instead it makes him look like a truncated puddle.

That's not even considering the arms, which are too slim and already wrinkled. Wtf kind of material is that, anyway? Divorce grey cotton/wool in a non-offensive weight?
Click to expand...
Can you post a photo of an ideal fit from a tailor? I like the corcos silhouette.
 
jba803 said:
Can you post a photo of an ideal fit from a tailor? I like the corcos silhouette.
Click to expand...
I can't speak to their usual cuts, but that one wasn't good. Are they a MTM outfit?

There are hundreds of examples of good fit and proportion online. Here are just a few:

the-mirror-crackd-1980-edward-fox-date-1980-KGRNB6.webp

gettyimages-103154006-612x612.webp

Henry Daniell in Four Jacks and a Jill (1942).webp
soawplaid-cl2a-jkt.webp

gf2black3-main2.webp



It's a matter of finding someone who can cut your clothes to good proportion, not any particular tailor. If a tailor can't or won't make clothes that will fit and look good in motion, then he shouldn't be patronized. If he doesn't even cut your clothes, but instead has it copied in China/India/Vietnam/some other god-awful place, then you should run, not walk, far far away.
 
Darth Bane said:
I can't speak to their usual cuts, but that one wasn't good. Are they a MTM outfit?

There are hundreds of examples of good fit and proportion online. Here are just a few:

View attachment 50015
View attachment 50016
View attachment 50017View attachment 50018
View attachment 50019


It's a matter of finding someone who can cut your clothes to good proportion, not any particular tailor. If a tailor can't or won't make clothes that will fit and look good in motion, then he shouldn't be patronized. If he doesn't even cut your clothes, but instead has it copied in China/India/Vietnam/some other god-awful place, then you should run, not walk, far far away.
Click to expand...
These photos aren’t current and haven’t been relevant for 3 decades. Can you post something that’s been made from 2015 to 2025?

What do you think of the tailoring from Alan See and Mark Cho? Anything relevant from the ongoing bespoke thread over on styleforum?
 
verrihappy said:
The perfect Corcos silhouette.View attachment 50020
Click to expand...
Front balance is uneven, I think. If it was even and the chest was tight both lapels would be bowing out at roughly the same area and angle, but it's only on one side. That can only mean one side is actually cut higher than the other. That's a borderline unfixable mistake...this should have been caught at the latest on the first fitting. That's actually a really, really poorly done piece from a technical and service attentiveness perspective.

Irrespective of my personal opinion on Corcos' styling. It is a fact that Corcos' lapels make chunky people look even chunkier due to the moderate belly and lack of overall sharpness to the cut of his lapels. The collar being relatively high and wide adds to the widening effect even more. Lastly, the lightly padded shoulders don't help this guy one bit especially since he doesn't have mildly sloping shoulders to appear more congruent with the cut of the lapels (my opinion).

I worded it as joke in one of my previous posts, but the corcos style really is made to flatter the shapeless manlet body type. It's just not a very stylish cut, imo.

Most people of the broad shouldered body type will very likely do better with neapolitan or a very restrained English structure cut. Edward Sexton would do it if you told him you didn't want the bombastic house cut. I cannot say about the ones that succeeded him though since I haven't bothered to try any other English tailors since his passing.
 
Last edited:
verrihappy said:
The fab and famous Sartoria Corcos house cut.
View attachment 50025
Click to expand...
His upper ribcage is rotated to the left, and was not accounted for.

You can see it in how forward his right arm, shoulder, and chest are. This is why he has the sleeve pitch seeming issue and the excess fabric is collapsing from the upper chest to lower chest (his body is not where it's supposed to be to fill the gap or conversely the jacket is not where it should be sitting). The uneven shoulder slope is more of an illusion of the camera because of his upper rib rotation.

Addendum: kinda feels like some sort of block pattern was used and adjusted in an mtm sorta way instead of bespoke. Just a gut feel on my part
 
Last edited:
jba803 said:
These photos aren’t current and haven’t been relevant for 3 decades. Can you post something that’s been made from 2015 to 2025?

What do you think of the tailoring from Alan See and Mark Cho? Anything relevant from the ongoing bespoke thread over on styleforum?
Click to expand...
Since when is good tailoring "not relevant?" You do realize that people keep real suits for decades, right? They don't just throw them away because some Vietnamese shill or fashion magazine says they're dated.

Here are some more recent photos of Sir Edward Fox, along with his son. Frederick Fox's suit is obviously more contemporary, and light grey like the Corcos, but cut much better: http://web.archive.org/web/20210301...2017/09/inheriting-style-from-edward-fox.html I prefer a slightly wider lapel and lower buttoning like his father, but that's me.

I don't care for most of the new tailoring houses. In almost every case, they outsource their work, cut corners, and make terrible fits. As near as I can tell, the overwhelming majority of Styleforum no longer buys real bespoke, either, but simply re-posts commissions from second-rate MTM outfits and shits on actually decent RTW makers like Brioni, etc. They actually believe that their Spier suit from India fits better than an Italian-made designer one would.

Everything in-house I have seen from Mark Cho has been utterly forgettable. His store carries some decent brands, but also igent-hype (Ambrosi). I'm still struggling to imagine a scenario in which I'd pay upwards of $3600 for a MTM suit with a machine-made chest, collar, etc. Fuck that. If I'm spending that kind of money, I'm going to an English tailor who can actually cut and make clothes.
 
jba803 said:
These photos aren’t current and haven’t been relevant for 3 decades. Can you post something that’s been made from 2015 to 2025?

What do you think of the tailoring from Alan See and Mark Cho? Anything relevant from the ongoing bespoke thread over on styleforum?
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, I just went back and re-checked the 'bespoke' thread.

As I suspected, the only posters showing things approaching quality are getting them from outfits like J Mueser, who isn't even a tailor and doesn't make suits in-house. Those people hide the actual tailors from you and overcharge for the services. Who knows if they even use a truly individual pattern?
 
Genki26 said:
His upper ribcage is rotated to the left, and was not accounted for.

You can see it in how forward his right arm, shoulder, and chest are. This is why he has the sleeve pitch seeming issue and the excess fabric is collapsing from the upper chest to lower chest (his body is not where it's supposed to be to fill the gap or conversely the jacket is not where it should be sitting). The uneven shoulder slope is more of an illusion of the camera because of his upper rib rotation.

Addendum: kinda feels like some sort of block pattern was used and adjusted in an mtm sorta way instead of bespoke. Just a gut feel on my part
Click to expand...
Genki26 said:
His upper ribcage is rotated to the left, and was not accounted for.

You can see it in how forward his right arm, shoulder, and chest are. This is why he has the sleeve pitch seeming issue and the excess fabric is collapsing from the upper chest to lower chest (his body is not where it's supposed to be to fill the gap or conversely the jacket is not where it should be sitting). The uneven shoulder slope is more of an illusion of the camera because of his upper rib rotation.

Addendum: kinda feels like some sort of block pattern was used and adjusted in an mtm sorta way instead of bespoke. Just a gut feel on my part
Click to expand...
Most likely the crooks at Sartoria Corcos are using a block pattern, as you see similar defects across different SF lowlifes showcasing with gay pride their supposedly bespoke commissions from Master Scammer Kotaro.
 
Darth Bane said:
Since when is good tailoring "not relevant?" You do realize that people keep real suits for decades, right? They don't just throw them away because some Vietnamese shill or fashion magazine says they're dated.

Here are some more recent photos of Sir Edward Fox, along with his son. Frederick Fox's suit is obviously more contemporary, and light grey like the Corcos, but cut much better: http://web.archive.org/web/20210301...2017/09/inheriting-style-from-edward-fox.html I prefer a slightly wider lapel and lower buttoning like his father, but that's me.

I don't care for most of the new tailoring houses. In almost every case, they outsource their work, cut corners, and make terrible fits. As near as I can tell, the overwhelming majority of Styleforum no longer buys real bespoke, either, but simply re-posts commissions from second-rate MTM outfits and shits on actually decent RTW makers like Brioni, etc. They actually believe that their Spier suit from India fits better than an Italian-made designer one would.

Everything in-house I have seen from Mark Cho has been utterly forgettable. His store carries some decent brands, but also igent-hype (Ambrosi). I'm still struggling to imagine a scenario in which I'd pay upwards of $3600 for a MTM suit with a machine-made chest, collar, etc. Fuck that. If I'm spending that kind of money, I'm going to an English tailor who can actually cut and make clothes.
Click to expand...
The majority of styleforum never bought bespoke. The ones that do post on the ongoing bespoke thread.

Why are you posting images from yesterday’s past? Nobody dresses like that anymore.

Stay focused, what’s so forgettable about Mark Cho’s outfits?

What about crispyj, brax, mp94, aristoi bcn, the schmidt? They’ve all posted nice fits on the ongoing bespoke thread.

1751589922325.webp

1751589730113.webp


1751589819554.webp
 
Last edited:
Darth Bane said:
I can't speak to their usual cuts, but that one wasn't good. Are they a MTM outfit?

There are hundreds of examples of good fit and proportion online. Here are just a few:


It's a matter of finding someone who can cut your clothes to good proportion, not any particular tailor. If a tailor can't or won't make clothes that will fit and look good in motion, then he shouldn't be patronized. If he doesn't even cut your clothes, but instead has it copied in China/India/Vietnam/some other god-awful place, then you should run, not walk, far far away.
Click to expand...

I've had good results with firms where the salesperson doesn't cut the clothes; only does the measuring and fitting.

Modern drape cut....

1751591441963.webp

1751591529752.webp


1751591540548.webp


1751591552039.webp


1751591571316.webp
 
verrihappy said:
Nice fit? View attachment 50038
Click to expand...

I'd never have figured out he was so girthy were it not for the mirror in this one. He has one of the worst cases of forward rolled shoulders I've ever seen. It makes him look narrow as hell. The wide lapels and huge slope on that shoulder make him look even narrower despite his large build. Very incongruent. Could have used more shoulder padding.

This guy's suits definitely only look good in pictures that hide his side profile (aka he looks mediocre irl). No bespoke is gonna save him till he fixes that horrible forward roll on his shoulder
 
Last edited:
jba803 said:
The majority of styleforum never bought bespoke. The ones that do post on the ongoing bespoke thread.

Why are you posting images from yesterday’s past? Nobody dresses like that anymore.

Stay focused, what’s so forgettable about Mark Cho’s outfits?

What about crispyj, brax, mp94, aristoi bcn, the schmidt? They’ve all posted nice fits on the ongoing bespoke thread.

View attachment 50032
View attachment 50030

View attachment 50031
Click to expand...
Ok, now I know you cannot be serious. Nobody dresses like what? In well-cut suits and tweed? Three-piece suits? I do, for one.

Consider the fact that one of your own modern examples is wearing a cravat, which is a far more unusual and oldschool item than a well-cut suit. Besides, I've already linked you to a modern photo of Freddie Fox.

I'm going to ignore Cho-cho and look at the photos you're posting. The first one isn't so bad, apart from the casual crap underneath, but it still has that silly droop shoulder like an old man's jacket (except for the old guys I posted, of course). The fabric bunching makes me suspect it's a bit too lightweight for me - I'd have liked to see heavier with that pattern.

The second jacket has a truncated look, far too short and squat. The sloped shoulders don't do him any favours. This guy needs structure and slimness to balance his physique, which the unstructured look isn't granting.

The last one's shoulders are ok, but again, a very rumpled effect to the fabric that is incongruous with its style (dark, serious). Button stance is again too high, and trousers too tapered. He needs a higher rise and a fuller lower leg.
 
Last edited:
jba803 said:
I've had good results with firms where the salesperson doesn't cut the clothes; only does the measuring and fitting.

Modern drape cut....

View attachment 50033
View attachment 50034

View attachment 50035

View attachment 50036

View attachment 50037
Click to expand...
Meanwhile, I have never purchased anything from a tailor that was not a tailor.

I'm not sure what these images are for. The last two are just oversized and rumpled, not drape cuts. Why not Anderson and Sheppard if you want drape?
 
jba803 said:
The majority of styleforum never bought bespoke. The ones that do post on the ongoing bespoke thread.

Why are you posting images from yesterday’s past? Nobody dresses like that anymore.

Stay focused, what’s so forgettable about Mark Cho’s outfits?

What about crispyj, brax, mp94, aristoi bcn, the schmidt? They’ve all posted nice fits on the ongoing bespoke thread.

View attachment 50032
View attachment 50030

View attachment 50031
Click to expand...
Gaysuits for the modern shortarsed body shape.
 
verrihappy said:
Most likely the crooks at Sartoria Corcos are using a block pattern, as you see similar defects across different SF lowlifes showcasing with gay pride their supposedly bespoke commissions from Master Scammer Kotaro.
Click to expand...

I was scammed by the psychopath Orazio Luciano, he also cuts by industrial sizes blocks and then recuts to client and fused.

Even trolls on the other unforum gaslighted me saying that was not true.

Damn cluster B degenerates.
 
verrihappy said:
The nightmare on Saville Row.
View attachment 50040

In Pitti U'homo
View attachment 50041
Click to expand...


The essence of tailong is to boost elegance.

A man with a skull tatoo on his hand as that one who looks a El Salvador gangs "Mara salvatruchas" is the opposite to it.

1751749879994.webp
.
1751749900456.webp


Who would you book and trust first, that one or any other perfectly dressed as this? ( even dressing well can also be a psychopathic disguise)

1751749841084.webp
 
Genki26 said:
I'd never have figured out he was so girthy were it not for the mirror in this one. He has one of the worst cases of forward rolled shoulders I've ever seen. It makes him look narrow as hell. The wide lapels and huge slope on that shoulder make him look even narrower despite his large build. Very incongruent. Could have used more shoulder padding.

This guy's suits definitely only look good in pictures that hide his side profile (aka he looks mediocre irl). No bespoke is gonna save him till he fixes that horrible forward roll on his shoulder
Click to expand...


The jacket also should arrive to the middle of his hand to get a more proportioned figure instead of giving the impression he is wearing clothes of his younger brother.

Badspoke.

Looking at the pic due to the jacket, it gives the impression he is a very short guy, while he seems 1,72 m. or so.
 
Last edited:
Sartoria Corcos fan/bend boys love their quality bespoke commissions.
Screenshot_20250706-075834.webp

That despite the ultra short sleeves.
Screenshot_20250706-080234.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 31 (members: 0, guests: 31)
Back
Top Bottom