Let's Talk About Denim

Thruth

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Jeff Bezos enters the selvidge mid-rise denim field;
1% elastane. No rivets. Made in India. Cheap buttons and zippers. Not raw as reviews say they are very soft and shoe evidence of being pre-washed

10 ounce is lightweight.

You are better off paying $30 for Unbranded, Brave Star or some of the other entry level decent quality raw selvedge denim.
 

Dropbear

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Thruth: can you recommend a weekend pair of jeans for me. Under $100, neat, dark denim and I don’t care about fades, comfortable and not all starchy, selvedge not important, mid-weight, rise isn’t too important since I won’t be tucking anything into them. Slim straight fit.

Basic Gustin or N&F Weird Guy .... what else?
 
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Rambo

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Thruth: can you recommend a weekend pair of jeans for me. Under $100, neat, dark denim and I don’t care about fades, comfortable and not all starchy, selvedge not important, mid-weight, rise isn’t too important since I won’t be tucking anything into them. Slim straight fit.

Basic Gustin or Nudie Weird Guy .... what else?
naked and famous - just around 100. frequently on sale
apc - slightly over 100
levi's on sale - often run 40% off.
brave star - made in usa good quality for under $100. not familiar with their quality first hand though: https://bravestarselvage.com/collections/selvedge-denim-jeans
edwin - popular online for low cost.
japan blue - probably the cheapest of the japanese imported brands.

cheaper ones i wasnt impressed with, mostly because of the fit:

goodfellow by target
uniqlo
gap
unbranded

of the ones i didnt like i'd say unbranded had the best construction and quality by far.
 
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Dropbear

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I haven't bought raw denim for a long time, but I do think N&F is the best bang for the buck.
That vanity sizing bullshit pisses me off. Looking at the various size charts, it looks like 30” Weird Guy is about the same as 32” Gustin straight.
 

Pauly Chase

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I have two pairs of Weird Guy, I actually went TTS, they aren's as slim in the waist if you just a little athletic.
 

Thruth

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Thruth: can you recommend a weekend pair of jeans for me. Under $100, neat, dark denim and I don’t care about fades, comfortable and not all starchy, selvedge not important, mid-weight, rise isn’t too important since I won’t be tucking anything into them. Slim straight fit.

Basic Gustin or N&F Weird Guy .... what else?
Give Brave Star a shot. They are really well made. They have a sale on right now under $100. The have some raw cone mills denim still but just go with the sanforized ones unless you want to mess around with soaking. I really like the ones I got. Website has good measurement charts for finding your fit.
 

mattc123

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What’s the forum party line on high priced Japanese denim. I’ve long thought it was mostly BS but recently picked up a pair of 18oz PBJs and have to admit that they are pretty unbelievable.
 

sirloin

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Can you wear 18oz without sweating like a pig? Got a 3sixteen 14.5oz pair recently, and even in 12-15 c weather, just going for a walk, I get hot.
 

Dropbear

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Can you wear 18oz without sweating like a pig? Got a 3sixteen 14.5oz pair recently, and even in 12-15 c weather, just going for a walk, I get hot.
Weight and also weave tightness make a difference. My all-time favourite pair of jeans were 18 or 19oz with a fairly loose weave. Soft but heavy, rugged but not stiff. Ideal winter jeans.

One of my pet dislikes about the whole ‘sick fades bro’ thing is that it has encouraged manufacturers to produce super starchy, right denim. It can be hard finding a decent pair of soft, dark indigo jeans these days.
 
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Pauly Chase

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I still have a pair of Slimane era MIJ 19cms. Need to start stretching them out since my thighs have gotten much bigger.
 

Dropbear

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First new pair of dark denim jeans in a while. I want to soften them a little, pre-shrink the legs before considering hemming and also lock-in the colour, so I figure I’ll do a salt water bath and hot water soak.

Sound about right? Any magic formula to the salt or just dump some in?

35” inseam likely to shrink to about 32”?
 
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Rambo

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First new pair of dark denim jeans in a while. I want to soften them a little, pre-shrink the legs before considering hemming and also lock-in the colour, so I figure I’ll do a salt water bath and hot water soak.

Sound about right? Any magic formula to the salt or just dump some in?

35” inseam likely to shrink to about 32”?
It varies on the type of denim and is a complete crapshoot. Might be better off going with a sanforized pair if you want color retention. Length shrinkage is a total crapshoot but ive never gotten 3" on any of my levis. More like 1.5-2.
 

Dropbear

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It varies on the type of denim and is a complete crapshoot. Might be better off going with a sanforized pair if you want color retention. Length shrinkage is a total crapshoot but ive never gotten 3" on any of my levis. More like 1.5-2.
They are sanforized N&F Lefthand Twill. I just want to lock in the color (and minimise bleeding) and get any further shrinkage out before I get them hemmed.

Weird Guy fit is lower waisted than I expected, but I can live with that.
 
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Dropbear

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I pissed down the barrel of an AKM once, for Soviet authenticity in cleaning after shooting with corrosive primers.

I heard of a fellow army medic who would offer to piss on soldiers’ toes. Something about the uric acid treating fungal infections.
 

Untermensch

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I pissed down the barrel of an AKM once, for Soviet authenticity in cleaning after shooting with corrosive primers.

I heard of a fellow army medic who would offer to piss on soldiers’ toes. Something about the uric acid treating fungal infections.
No, it's just that urine is a sterile liquid. In an emergency, when nothing else is available, it can be used to irrigate wounds or clean the skin. You from the Soviet Bloc, Dropbear? Should I wear high-twist wool with my ushanka, or should I go for something with a slubby texture?
 

Dropbear

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Urine isn’t really sterile at all. You can blame Edward Kass, a pioneering epidemiologist of the 1950s, for that myth. Your pee-pee has 20-40 different bacteria in it (hopefully at fairly low levels).

Any good comrade knows the people’s ushenka, like the Afghanka, should be made with genuine fish fur sourced from the artisanal fisherman of the Black Sea, who have eschewed the mercantile trades for centuries.
 
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Untermensch

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Sterile in relation to the bog water you'll have at your disposal in a survival situation, but let's not quibble.
 

Thruth

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They are sanforized N&F Lefthand Twill. I just want to lock in the color (and minimise bleeding) and get any further shrinkage out before I get them hemmed.

Weird Guy fit is lower waisted than I expected, but I can live with that.
Soak them as you would unsanforized denim + add cup of white vinegar to the tub to help reduce bleeding.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Urine isn’t really sterile at all. You can blame Edward Kass, a pioneering epidemiologist of the 1950s, for that myth. Your pee-pee has 20-40 different bacteria in it (hopefully at fairly low levels).

Any good comrade knows the people’s ushenka, like the Afghanka, should be made with genuine fish fur sourced from the artisanal fisherman of the Black Sea, who have eschewed the mercantile trades for centuries.
Don't you have to piss on your jeans to be accepted into the local chapter of the Hell's Angels?
 

Pauly Chase

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Just browsed through BlueinGreen Soho's website. Makes me miss the days of raw denim. I know someone who bought a pair IH 21 oz a few years back and worn them every day for over a year, the result was pretty amazing. There is no trick to breaking down denim, just wear until they smell, soak, dry, and repeat.
 

fxh

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Just browsed through BlueinGreen Soho's website. Makes me miss the days of raw denim. I know someone who bought a pair IH 21 oz a few years back and worn them every day for over a year, the result was pretty amazing. There is no trick to breaking down denim, just wear until they smell, soak, dry, and repeat.
I do that with underpants.
 
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