Let's Talk About Denim

[Journeyman]

I heard of a fellow army medic who would offer to piss on soldiers’ toes. Something about the uric acid treating fungal infections.

I've never heard of that, but I did hear once that soldiers in WWII would piss on their newly-issued leather boots. Apparently, the urine helped to soften the leather up so that the boots were less painful when marching.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

I've never heard of that, but I did hear once that soldiers in WWII would piss on their newly-issued leather boots. Apparently, the urine helped to soften the leather up so that the boots were less painful when marching.

If you ever go past a tanning factory the stench of urinals is almost unbearable.

 

[Journeyman]

^ Very true - I'd forgotten about the use of urine in tanning leather.

 

[Dropbear]

From Gunpowder to Teeth Whitener: The Science Behind Historic Uses of Urine

Preindustrial workers built huge industries based on the liquid's cleaning power and corrosiveness--and the staler the pee, the better

www.smithsonianmag.com

 

[Journeyman]

Urine as teeth whitener? I think that I'd just settle for yellow teeth...

 

[Dropbear]

 

[Dropbear]

Tellason Stock looks alright for the price ($99). Might use some of my Amazon credit to give it a go.

As far as a black denim trucker goes, I can’t see anything that beats the basic Levis for value.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Tellason Stock looks alright for the price. Might use some of my Amazon credit to give it a go.

As far as a black denim trucker goes, I can’t see anything that beats the basic Levis for value.

Rogue territory makes a nice one. If you want to go for something quality you could check Iron Heart or one of the japanese brands

 

[Dropbear]

Rogue territory makes a nice one. If you want to go for something quality you could check Iron Heart or one of the japanese brands

Damn, that Iron Heart does look nice... but more than I’m will to spend.

 

[sirloin]

I've been happy with a pair of 3sixteen I bought in the fall. At Self Edge, they come in about 100$ less, than the Iron Heart

 

[Grand Potentate]

Damn, that Iron Heart does look nice... but more than I’m will to spend.

Quality over quantity

 

[Dropbear]

Quality over quantity

But $70 versus $435? Sometimes life is about compromises.

 

[Grand Potentate]

But $70 versus $435? Sometimes life is about compromises.

true but as an owner of more than one levi's jacket i'll tell you that i wish i had bought the better one in the first place.

 

[Dropbear]

true but as an owner of more than one levi's jacket i'll tell you that i wish i had bought the better one in the first place.

Why? Is it the construction, the materials or the fit?

 

[Thruth]

Why? Is it the construction, the materials or the fit?

I'll second what Grand Potentate says about moving upmarket a bit or a lot. Get a beefier denim, selvedge denim, better construction. Levis are light denim, non-selvedge, OK construction.

You've looked at Ciano Farmer before. They make a number of them. Only problem is the waiting time. 11+ weeks now.

Tellason is a well done jacket and so is 3Sixteen. Iron Heart is killer stuff that will most likely be your last denim jacket.

Freenote cloth ($300). 14.75 oz Japanese denim.

Left Field NYC. 13 ounce deadstock cone mills. $260

Naked and Famous have a couple of black ones just under $200

Railcar Fine Goods. This outfit is under the radar but they make killer denim and other pants as well as limited edition jackets. 13.75 ounce. It is rigid. $380

Standard and Strange have a Mister Freedom Ranch Blouse in Midnight on sale for $350 (regular almost $600) if you are a 40 or 42

 

[Dropbear]

Ok, I found those Telleson and N&F jackets on Amazon with free returns. Guess I’ll go a little upmarket.

 

[Thruth]

Ok, I found those Telleson and N&F jackets on Amazon with free returns. Guess I’ll go a little upmarket.

NOT UPMARKET ENOUGH!

 

[Dropbear]

NOT UPMARKET ENOUGH!

I ordered a Telleson. MIDMARKET FTW!!!

 

[Grand Potentate]

Freenote cloth ($300). 14.75 oz Japanese denim.

i REALLY dislike the lines on this jacket.

Why? Is it the construction, the materials or the fit?

all three. all levis these days are put together fairly poorly, the fit is extra roomy which probably isn't good for you, and the materials are only fair at best. for a show piece like a jacket i'd step up in quality.

 

[fxh]

Denim jackets look good (can) but hard to wear in practice. They don't stop wind, they are heavy in summer and too light in winter. Uniqlo has some good cheap ones if they fit you and they look as good as the "authentic" stuff.

 

[shookt]

Tellason Stock looks alright for the price ($99). Might use some of my Amazon credit to give it a go.

As far as a black denim trucker goes, I can’t see anything that beats the basic Levis for value.

I've been wearing mine from Sage and enjoying it a fair bit especially in the fall and on unseasonably warm winter days. It's an Indonesian brand using Japanese denim and the price is good for what you're getting - better than Levi's imo. It's my jacket of choice for 40-60F weather.

 

[Dropbear]

I've been wearing mine from Sage and enjoying it a fair bit especially in the fall and on unseasonably warm winter days. It's an Indonesian brand using Japanese denim and the price is good for what you're getting - better than Levi's imo. It's my jacket of choice for 40-60F weather.

just looked over their site - thanks for sharing! I may order some jeans from them in the future. 21oz sanfortized denim for $130 shipped is tempting...

 

[Dropbear]

The Telleson jacket arrived yesterday. The style, materials and construction are all solid, but it’s going back. I ordered the L to fit my shoulders, which it does, but it’s way too big and boxy (sleeves would need shortening as well as chest and waist). It does seem a little longer than other brands, which is another positive.

Next, I’m trying the N&F in M. Body and sleeve should be ok, though it could be a bit short. Also, I kinda wish it had the waist adjusters on the back.

Failing that, I may yet end up going UPMARKET with Thruth .

 

[Journeyman]

Failing that, I may yet end up going UPMARKET with @Thruth.

I hear that all the cool kids like the Foo wear Saint Laurent. You should be able to get one of their jackets and look like a drug-addicted anorexic hipster for $1000 upwards.

 

[Dropbear]

Much better fit:

 

[Grand Potentate]

Much better fit:

View attachment 33339

oh yeah. you aren't getting a fit like that with levi's.

 

[Pauly Chase]

Dropbear Yoox has a bunch of Nudie jeans at 30% off, if you are still exploring the denimz world.

 

[Great White Snark]

Much better fit:

View attachment 33339

I thought on the other thread you said you weren’t doing the Canadian tuxedo?
It still counts even if it’s black y’know?

 

[Dropbear]

I thought on the other thread you said you weren’t doing the Canadian tuxedo?
It still counts even if it’s black y’know?

Yeh, I guess I’m ok with it as long as there is a high contrast - not matching denim.

like a sports coat and odd trousers, not an open necked and suit.

 

[Dropbear]

I love this olive denim, but I don’t want a ‘work shirt’ and I’m not sure I’d wear green jeans. Pity they didn’t make it up as a jacket:

https://www.weargustin.com/store/shirts-japan-olive-workshirt

 

[Pauly Chase]

Received my Nudie Grim Tim in dry organic denim, black. The 1% elastane definitely makes a huge difference. Going to keep and see how these will turn.

 

[Dropbear]

Jesus

 

[Journeyman]

40oz cloth?

I reckon you'll just be able to stand them up by themselves in the corner when you take them off at the end of the day!

 

[Dropbear]

There’s a beautiful Orslow indigo denim jacket on Blue Owl on sale now. I’m very tempted, but I’m still a bit stuck on what I’d wear it with. Double indigo looks too metal band for me and I don’t wear chinos on the weekend.

 

[fxh]

There’s a beautiful Orslow indigo denim jacket on Blue Owl on sale now. I’m very tempted, but I’m still a bit stuck on what I’d wear it with. Double indigo looks too metal band for me and I don’t wear chinos on the weekend.
View attachment 33421

Go the old - dark on top light below. Some faded faded jeans. Works OK with black jeans.
Triple denim looks ok - better than double denim. Looks like you meant it - Go hard or go home

 

[Dropbear]

Lots of MTO options and 30% off. Some of the denim looks a bit cheap and I’m not sure about royal Thai tailors, but it might be with a shot:

Custom Made Denim

Custom Made Denim. Get Japanese selvedge denim & custom leather. Perfect size guaranteed. Free worldwide shipping. 10% OFF first time.

sosoclothing.se

 

[sirloin]

Buying cheap and regretting it, is newer worth it.

 

[Thruth]

There’s a beautiful Orslow indigo denim jacket on Blue Owl on sale now. I’m very tempted, but I’m still a bit stuck on what I’d wear it with. Double indigo looks too metal band for me and I don’t wear chinos on the weekend.
View attachment 33421

Freenote Cloth has corduroy alternatives to the denim trucker jacket. Price is dear at $320 but they will have sales.

Their waxed Rider jacket is nice but it costs 400 pigs

Personally I think this one has you written all over it

 

[Thruth]

Railcar Fine Goods has their Deuce jacket $265 in selvedge canvas

 

[Dropbear]

Railcar Fine Goods has their Deuce jacket $265 in selvedge canvas

View attachment 33433

That is nice. I’m definitely on a renewed streetwear and denim kick these days.

I bought the lightweight Telleson ecru type 3 trucker with some Amazon credit. Should be a nice summer evening jacket. The black N&F is also a keeper.

I should stop there, but I’m still looking at some classic copper thread and buttons, dark indigo type 3 truckers. So far the MTO or Orslow are appealing, but I’m trying to talk myself out of something I probably won’t get that much use out of.

additionally, I’m waiting for a good deal on indigo Ironheart 666-21s.