Let's Talk About Denim

Grail denim for the purists who want vintage period-correct details:

 
Grail denim for the purists who want vintage period-correct details:

I'd pay big $$ for my jeans to fit like this
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I'd pay big $$ for my jeans to fit like this
View attachment 44741
Denim nerds like to cosplay, which means having period correct details and cut on their jeans. This is is an extreme example for people who want the true vintage style, but a more popular one would be Fullcount:

 
Denim nerds like to cosplay, which means having period correct details and cut on their jeans. This is is an extreme example for people who want the true vintage style, but a more popular one would be Fullcount:

The denim is a 13.7oz weight which is constructed strictly from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, has been hand picked at a rate of only once a year.
 
The denim is a 13.7oz weight which is constructed strictly from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, has been hand picked at a rate of only once a year.
Those lazy cotton picking Zimbabweans!
 
If there is one thing The Shooman The Shooman and I agree on, it’s trouser fit.

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If there is one thing The Shooman The Shooman and I agree on, it’s trouser fit.

View attachment 45990


I did not know The Shooman The Shooman was into Cosplay
 
Ok so I read the whole thread and still have no idea what to get. Of to the store I guess...
 
I do still think Naked Famous produces decent products at reasonable prices with a variety of cuts especially for those of us with tumor sized thighs.

If you are looking at mid range denim, I am a huge fan of 3sixteen and Samurai
 
I do still think Naked Famous produces decent products at reasonable prices with a variety of cuts especially for those of us with tumor sized thighs.

If you are looking at mid range denim, I am a huge fan of 3sixteen and Samurai
NF Weird Guys in left hand twill is sorta the gold standard for entry level denim, imo.
 
I'll agree with Pauly Chase Pauly Chase and Dropbear Dropbear on Naked and Famous being the/an entry-level leader.

But I have to pimp Brave Star denim in LA. Lots of cuts, solid made-in-the-USA quality, good selvage denim. Still doing Cone Mills runs and good Japanese denim all under $200. Ciano Farmeresque with stock sizes and no waiting time. Great customer service. USPS sent my chinos to Japan and lost track of them. Called the owner and he said he would send me a new pair and to keep the other pair if they ever showed up. They did.
 
What are you looking for?
I don't really know. Straight leg, not too heavy/hot, higher rise, blue, no ostentatious branding. It doesn't have to be superspecial. It will be piece #3 of my dad wear collection so it will be abused and get dirty. Since everyone here seems to agree Naked and Famous is an OK buy, I'll try them. There is a specialized denim store fairly close, they probably carry those as well. I read you recommending Levi early on in this thread and I like the idea. Had a quick look at their website, the variety is extremely confusing and they seem ridiculously expensive for what they offer?
 
I'll agree with Pauly Chase Pauly Chase and Dropbear Dropbear on Naked and Famous being the/an entry-level leader.

But I have to pimp Brave Star denim in LA. Lots of cuts, solid made-in-the-USA quality, good selvage denim. Still doing Cone Mills runs and good Japanese denim all under $200. Ciano Farmeresque with stock sizes and no waiting time. Great customer service. USPS sent my chinos to Japan and lost track of them. Called the owner and he said he would send me a new pair and to keep the other pair if they ever showed up. They did.
Wise advice from Thruth. I have no experience with Bravestar but Ciano makes the best jeans, hands down. The custom wait is long, but if you can get them in stock then it’s an excellent option. I’m a big fan of the Miner cut- straight leg and a high waist.
 
I don't really know. Straight leg, not too heavy/hot, higher rise, blue, no ostentatious branding. It doesn't have to be superspecial. It will be piece #3 of my dad wear collection so it will be abused and get dirty. Since everyone here seems to agree Naked and Famous is an OK buy, I'll try them. There is a specialized denim store fairly close, they probably carry those as well. I read you recommending Levi early on in this thread and I like the idea. Had a quick look at their website, the variety is extremely confusing and they seem ridiculously expensive for what they offer?

Did you buy something?

If only Pimpy had been here to recommend the Levi’s with the handle on the butt.
 
I haven't. I should make it to the store next Tuesday. Here's what they have: https://www.stuf-f.com/bekleidung/denim/ Will at least try some and get an idea of the different weights. Unfortunately no Naked and Famous available anywhere close to me.
Man that’s a great selection they have there. If you can’t find anything there then you might just have to chop off your legs.
 
iron heart

21oz denim might be a bit extreme for Dadcore.

That store has a heap of quality brands, though not so much on the entry level end of the spectrum. Can’t really go wrong if you walk in there and try stuff on. Personally, I’d probably start with TCB.
 
21oz denim might be a bit extreme for Dadcore.

That store has a heap of quality brands, though not so much on the entry level end of the spectrum. Can’t really go wrong if you walk in there and try stuff on. Personally, I’d probably start with TCB.
Agree. I had one of their 21oz. Ridiculously stiff
 
Had a hard time finding this thread.

I recently became aware that at one point Imogene + Willie made (some of) the RRL jeans. This could have been a decade ago. Point is, I + W do not make the most spectacular US made denim. They are ok. I don’t think they are premium and their QC has slipped, so RRL were/are way overpriced and kinda meh.
 
None of my jeans fit and in replacing them, I've realized that my denim expectations have changed.

1. I don't want to soak nuthin' no more. Sanforized or unsanforized doesn't matter. As long as the denim brother soaked it in their special wash and dried in on rocks in the sun or the loading dock to take the shrink out to leave it crinkly-feeling, that is raw-enough selvedge denim for me these days.

2. I'm done with heavy leather and shearling so I don't need no monster weight denim either. Heavyweight, low tension weaves are great and all for softness, but the low tension accelerates wear and breakdown sooner. I don't need heavy rigidity either. I think I am back to a 14ounce +/- an ounce or two either way sweet spot.

3. I don't need no sick fades. I never really did. Sick fades come from interesting denim, interesting dyeing and pathological wearing and never washing. I don't mind wearing denim for weeks without washing, but I'm not thinking of how that is affecting the fade.

The first pair I’ve bought is Japan Blue in a 14.8 ounce denim.

Mid-to-top tier maker. Good value for price but they are not cheap. Just bettered positioned in the premium market. Exposed rivets, no coloured selvedge thread embellishments or the like that you will find on their stablemate brand Momotaro.

They have modern cuts and I need a slim taper. Plus it is mid rise and not low rise.

It is available in Canada and the shop always has sales plus free shipping. It’s all I need and I’m not going to bump into many people wearing JB.

I’ll get a second pair to rotate with them but I haven’t thought about brand.
 

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