Let's Talk About Denim

[Dropbear]

Grail denim for the purists who want vintage period-correct details:

Type-SO Authentic High Rise Straight Fit "Semi Bespoke" — Bowery Blue Makers

Legend Kiyama Originals Raw Japanese Denim The "SEMI BESPOKE" is a personal dialogue between the wearer and the maker, allowing you to tailor the finer details of the Type-SO to your own vision. From thread colors and fabric grain to pocketing, your preferences will be meticulously inte

www.boweryblue.com

 

[fxh]

Grail denim for the purists who want vintage period-correct details:

Type-SO Authentic High Rise Straight Fit "Semi Bespoke" — Bowery Blue Makers

Legend Kiyama Originals Raw Japanese Denim The "SEMI BESPOKE" is a personal dialogue between the wearer and the maker, allowing you to tailor the finer details of the Type-SO to your own vision. From thread colors and fabric grain to pocketing, your preferences will be meticulously inte

www.boweryblue.com

I'd pay big $$ for my jeans to fit like this

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

I'd pay big $$ for my jeans to fit like this
View attachment 44741

You can get the Levi 501 Vintage 1937's for the same look, Made in Japan, I got them taken in as that bagginess was too much for me. But exact same style and silhouette.

 

[Dropbear]

I'd pay big $$ for my jeans to fit like this
View attachment 44741

Denim nerds like to cosplay, which means having period correct details and cut on their jeans. This is is an extreme example for people who want the true vintage style, but a more popular one would be Fullcount:

Full Count 1930s 13.7oz Loose Straight Jean - Raw

This limited edition jean from Full Count feels like it is straight out of the history books. The 1930s model is a loose fitting jean with a mid to high rise which gives the classic American workwear shape. The back pockets feature exposed rivets and are left plain on this jean as they overlap...

sonofastag.com

 

[fxh]

Denim nerds like to cosplay, which means having period correct details and cut on their jeans. This is is an extreme example for people who want the true vintage style, but a more popular one would be Fullcount:

Full Count 1930s 13.7oz Loose Straight Jean - Raw

This limited edition jean from Full Count feels like it is straight out of the history books. The 1930s model is a loose fitting jean with a mid to high rise which gives the classic American workwear shape. The back pockets feature exposed rivets and are left plain on this jean as they overlap...

sonofastag.com

The denim is a 13.7oz weight which is constructed strictly from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, has been hand picked at a rate of only once a year.

 

[Dropbear]

The denim is a 13.7oz weight which is constructed strictly from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, has been hand picked at a rate of only once a year.

Those lazy cotton picking Zimbabweans!

 

[Dropbear]

If there is one thing The Shooman and I agree on, it’s trouser fit.

{The Rite Stuff} Daybreak Salt & Pepper Work Pants (Charcoal)

*Here’s your chance to pick up the Daybreaks at a one-time special price; these pairs were made without the selvedge line because of a miscommunication but that means savings for you!* From the factory to the farm, the garage and the delivery route, the humble work pant is an emblem of hard...

the-rite-stuff.com

 

[Thruth]

If there is one thing The Shooman and I agree on, it’s trouser fit.

View attachment 45990

{The Rite Stuff} Daybreak Salt & Pepper Work Pants (Charcoal)

*Here’s your chance to pick up the Daybreaks at a one-time special price; these pairs were made without the selvedge line because of a miscommunication but that means savings for you!* From the factory to the farm, the garage and the delivery route, the humble work pant is an emblem of hard...

the-rite-stuff.com

I did not know The Shooman was into Cosplay

 

[güero]

Ok so I read the whole thread and still have no idea what to get. Of to the store I guess...

 

[Grand Potentate]

Ok so I read the whole thread and still have no idea what to get. Of to the store I guess...

What are you looking for?

 

[Pauly Chase]

I do still think Naked Famous produces decent products at reasonable prices with a variety of cuts especially for those of us with tumor sized thighs.

If you are looking at mid range denim, I am a huge fan of 3sixteen and Samurai

 

[Dropbear]

I do still think Naked Famous produces decent products at reasonable prices with a variety of cuts especially for those of us with tumor sized thighs.

If you are looking at mid range denim, I am a huge fan of 3sixteen and Samurai

NF Weird Guys in left hand twill is sorta the gold standard for entry level denim, imo.

 

[Thruth]

I'll agree with Pauly Chase and Dropbear on Naked and Famous being the/an entry-level leader.

But I have to pimp Brave Star denim in LA. Lots of cuts, solid made-in-the-USA quality, good selvage denim. Still doing Cone Mills runs and good Japanese denim all under $200. Ciano Farmeresque with stock sizes and no waiting time. Great customer service. USPS sent my chinos to Japan and lost track of them. Called the owner and he said he would send me a new pair and to keep the other pair if they ever showed up. They did.

 

[güero]

What are you looking for?

I don't really know. Straight leg, not too heavy/hot, higher rise, blue, no ostentatious branding. It doesn't have to be superspecial. It will be piece #3 of my dad wear collection so it will be abused and get dirty. Since everyone here seems to agree Naked and Famous is an OK buy, I'll try them. There is a specialized denim store fairly close, they probably carry those as well. I read you recommending Levi early on in this thread and I like the idea. Had a quick look at their website, the variety is extremely confusing and they seem ridiculously expensive for what they offer?

 

[Dropbear]

I'll agree with Pauly Chase and Dropbear on Naked and Famous being the/an entry-level leader.

But I have to pimp Brave Star denim in LA. Lots of cuts, solid made-in-the-USA quality, good selvage denim. Still doing Cone Mills runs and good Japanese denim all under $200. Ciano Farmeresque with stock sizes and no waiting time. Great customer service. USPS sent my chinos to Japan and lost track of them. Called the owner and he said he would send me a new pair and to keep the other pair if they ever showed up. They did.

Wise advice from Thruth. I have no experience with Bravestar but Ciano makes the best jeans, hands down. The custom wait is long, but if you can get them in stock then it’s an excellent option. I’m a big fan of the Miner cut- straight leg and a high waist.

 

[Dropbear]

I don't really know. Straight leg, not too heavy/hot, higher rise, blue, no ostentatious branding. It doesn't have to be superspecial. It will be piece #3 of my dad wear collection so it will be abused and get dirty. Since everyone here seems to agree Naked and Famous is an OK buy, I'll try them. There is a specialized denim store fairly close, they probably carry those as well. I read you recommending Levi early on in this thread and I like the idea. Had a quick look at their website, the variety is extremely confusing and they seem ridiculously expensive for what they offer?

Did you buy something?

If only Pimpy had been here to recommend the Levi’s with the handle on the butt.

 

[güero]

Did you buy something?

If only Pimpy had been here to recommend the Levi’s with the handle on the butt.

I haven't. I should make it to the store next Tuesday. Here's what they have: https://www.stuf-f.com/bekleidung/denim/ Will at least try some and get an idea of the different weights. Unfortunately no Naked and Famous available anywhere close to me.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I haven't. I should make it to the store next Tuesday. Here's what they have: https://www.stuf-f.com/bekleidung/denim/ Will at least try some and get an idea of the different weights. Unfortunately no Naked and Famous available anywhere close to me.

Man that’s a great selection they have there. If you can’t find anything there then you might just have to chop off your legs.

 

[belinmad]

Momotaro, flathead and real mccoy are all great

 

[Grand Potentate]

Momotaro, flathead and real mccoy are all great

iron heart

 

[Dropbear]

iron heart

21oz denim might be a bit extreme for Dadcore.

That store has a heap of quality brands, though not so much on the entry level end of the spectrum. Can’t really go wrong if you walk in there and try stuff on. Personally, I’d probably start with TCB.

 

[belinmad]

21oz denim might be a bit extreme for Dadcore.

That store has a heap of quality brands, though not so much on the entry level end of the spectrum. Can’t really go wrong if you walk in there and try stuff on. Personally, I’d probably start with TCB.

Agree. I had one of their 21oz. Ridiculously stiff

 

[Thruth]

Had a hard time finding this thread.

I recently became aware that at one point Imogene + Willie made (some of) the RRL jeans. This could have been a decade ago. Point is, I + W do not make the most spectacular US made denim. They are ok. I don’t think they are premium and their QC has slipped, so RRL were/are way overpriced and kinda meh.

 

[Thruth]

None of my jeans fit and in replacing them, I've realized that my denim expectations have changed.

1. I don't want to soak nuthin' no more. Sanforized or unsanforized doesn't matter. As long as the denim brother soaked it in their special wash and dried in on rocks in the sun or the loading dock to take the shrink out to leave it crinkly-feeling, that is raw-enough selvedge denim for me these days.

2. I'm done with heavy leather and shearling so I don't need no monster weight denim either. Heavyweight, low tension weaves are great and all for softness, but the low tension accelerates wear and breakdown sooner. I don't need heavy rigidity either. I think I am back to a 14ounce +/- an ounce or two either way sweet spot.

3. I don't need no sick fades. I never really did. Sick fades come from interesting denim, interesting dyeing and pathological wearing and never washing. I don't mind wearing denim for weeks without washing, but I'm not thinking of how that is affecting the fade.

The first pair I’ve bought is Japan Blue in a 14.8 ounce denim.

Mid-to-top tier maker. Good value for price but they are not cheap. Just bettered positioned in the premium market. Exposed rivets, no coloured selvedge thread embellishments or the like that you will find on their stablemate brand Momotaro.

They have modern cuts and I need a slim taper. Plus it is mid rise and not low rise.

It is available in Canada and the shop always has sales plus free shipping. It’s all I need and I’m not going to bump into many people wearing JB.

I’ll get a second pair to rotate with them but I haven’t thought about brand.

 

[Thruth]

The denim is a 13.7oz weight which is constructed strictly from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, has been hand picked at a rate of only once a year.

It is a sexy tissue, the 13.7 Oz. I have the 1108BK slim straight. It is not a lightweight fabric so it has some heft, but it is soft.

It like freaking wraps itself around you, man, and you just want to touch it. Just touch it.Know what I mean?

But in reality, I pretty much like in and around 14 oz, though I did dig The Strike Gold and ONI 16 Oz when they fit.

But none of the denim I’ve had feels like this. Momotaro uses Zimbabwean and feels similarly soft and airy. But neither is a loose weave. For full disclosure I can only afford to touch Momotaros, not wear them.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

It looks like a 501 I got in school in 1991.

Is not that dated?

Liked the red stitching

 

[Thruth]

It looks like a 501 I got in school in 1991.

Is not that dated?

Liked the red stitching

Well, Japanese denim brands more often than not re-interpret classic denim like Levi's, and it is a straight leg like 501s. The original Levi's cut from 1873 is what is now know as 501, and it was the post-WWII models onward that started to resemble modern 501s, so yours were dated in 1991.

The pink stitching is a Momotaro thing.

Maybe I should wear Celine like Mafoofan?

Or maybe Dana Lee denim?

 

[Dropbear]

After a few decades of being a denim nerd, for the past four years I’ve mostly been wearing 5 pocket chinos (tans, olive, eggshell, etc). Anyway, I got the itch to wear jeans again and realised my remaining two pairs aren’t ideal.

I think I’m going to go the Freenote’s Wilkes, which is supposedly a western/cowboy cut similar to old Wranglers. I like the higher rise and slim/straight leg, though a touch of taper below the knee would be better.

 

[Grand Potentate]

After a few decades of being a denim nerd, for the past four years I’ve mostly been wearing 5 pocket chinos (tans, olive, eggshell, etc). Anyway, I got the itch to wear jeans again and realised my remaining two pairs aren’t ideal.

I think I’m going to go the Freenote’s Wilkes, which is supposedly a western/cowboy cut similar to old Wranglers. I like the higher rise and slim/straight leg, though a touch of taper below the knee would be better.

Thruth

 

[Thruth]

After a few decades of being a denim nerd, for the past four years I’ve mostly been wearing 5 pocket chinos (tans, olive, eggshell, etc). Anyway, I got the itch to wear jeans again and realised my remaining two pairs aren’t ideal.

I think I’m going to go the Freenote’s Wilkes, which is supposedly a western/cowboy cut similar to old Wranglers. I like the higher rise and slim/straight leg, though a touch of taper below the knee would be better.

Don't limit yourself. I just measured my Orslows, Momos, 3Sixteens and Full Counts. With 32" actual waist measurements, they all have 11-11.25 front rises, the 3Sixteens have a back rise of 14 and the rest 15. mine all have more taper from the knee down. Slim top block. pretty close to the Freenote's in measurements. Better denim. Can be had for similar price if you look around. I thought you wanted a front rise up way above your pupitz. Lots of other option for those rises plus a slimmer straight leg cut.

 

[Dropbear]

Don't limit yourself. I just measured my Orslows, Momos, 3Sixteens and Full Counts. With 32" actual waist measurements, they all have 11-11.25 front rises, the 3Sixteens have a back rise of 14 and the rest 15. mine all have more taper from the knee down. Slim top block. pretty close to the Freenote's in measurements. Better denim. Can be had for similar price if you look around. I thought you wanted a front rise up way above your pupitz. Lots of other option for those rises plus a slimmer straight leg cut.

I do have some custom off-white 5 pocket chinos on their way with a 13” rise. Might be excessive, but you won’t be seeing my arse crack when I bend over or my gut when I do an Elon Musk leap for joy at seeing Daddy Trump on stage.

$200 on sale for 15oz rinsed, 12” rise and 8.5” opening on the Freenotes. Which models would you suggest in other brands that would offer similar-better?

These look good, except for the lack of taper:

Indigofera Kain - Kobakama Wolly Denim

The newest fit in Indigofera's lineup is the Kain. A high rise and straight fit, the Kain has the highest rise of any denim we offer and is paired with a straight leg that's not quite as wide as the Kirk fit. The Kobakama Wolly Denim is a 14oz Japanese fabric full of neppy characteristics. FINAL...

franklinandpoe.com

 

[fxh]

I tried on some Nudie before xmas - had to rush and couldn't get my size, but they seemed to fit your criteria.

Rad Rufus 40s Redcast

High-waist, regular-fit jeans with a straight leg in a captivating redcast rinse wash. Made from organic cotton.

www.nudiejeans.com

I've started wearing some jeans around home a bit as they resist stains better than a lot of the crap chinos - I've been using.

 

[Thruth]

I do have some custom off-white 5 pocket chinos on their way with a 13” rise. Might be excessive, but you won’t be seeing my arse crack when I bend over or my gut when I do an Elon Musk leap for joy at seeing Daddy Trump on stage.

$200 on sale for 15oz rinsed, 12” rise and 8.5” opening on the Freenotes. Which models would you suggest in other brands that would offer similar-better?

These look good, except for the lack of taper:

Indigofera Kain - Kobakama Wolly Denim

The newest fit in Indigofera's lineup is the Kain. A high rise and straight fit, the Kain has the highest rise of any denim we offer and is paired with a straight leg that's not quite as wide as the Kirk fit. The Kobakama Wolly Denim is a 14oz Japanese fabric full of neppy characteristics. FINAL...

franklinandpoe.com

Full Count slim straight comes to mind. $246 everyday at Okayama Denim. Zimbabwean cotton. Maybe the rise is not high enough for you.

Fullcount New 1108 (Slim Straight)

1108W 13.75 oz. Fullcount exclusive Japanese Selvedge denim 100% Zimbabwe Cotton Slim Straight 5 metal button fly Copper rivets / Hidden back copper rivets Chainstitched hems and waistband Goatskin leather waistband patch *Model is pictured wearing a size 29, raw. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and...

www.okayamadenim.com

 

[Dropbear]

No matter how many years of experience have with this measuring against sizing charts, it still messes with my head when I see crazy tag sizes. I’m retiring a pair of Canadian jeans in Size 31, to replace them with some Swedish jeans in size 36!?!?!

Or seeing different vendors measuring the same jeans with a range from 33.5” to 36”!

 

[Dropbear]

I know I’m overthinking it all, but I guess it’s a product of a long torso and slim waist giving a combination of short polos and low jeans. The risk of showing Musk belly is real. Anyway, I think I’ll order some Orslow 105s and 66s from somewhere with a good return policy.

 

[Dropbear]

Medium Sunspel and 32” Weird Guys with an 11.5” rise

 

[Grand Potentate]

View attachment 49605


Medium Sunspel and 32” Weird Guys with an 11.5” rise

Not a fan of this whole setup.

 

[Dropbear]

Poindexter jeans: unlocked!

 

[Dropbear]

Urrgghhh. After a five year hiatus, I seem to have the denim bug again. I’ve started looking at jackets (type III, Rider or similar) in a washed indigo or ecru. Looking for something a bit tailored and boxy, not too cropped. I’ll start looking on eBay to scratch that itch.

 

[fxh]

Poindexter jeans: unlocked!

View attachment 49634

These look to be great - high rise, not too tight, slim ish for your preference, not too narrow at cuff. ?

go out and get a pair in every colour they make.