Let's Talk About Denim

fxh said:
These look to be great - high rise, not too tight, slim ish for your preference, not too narrow at cuff. ?
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Cheers! I’m happy with how they came out. I left a little extra length in the inseam for shrinkage.

fxh said:
go out and get a pair in every colour they make.
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I am thinking about getting a second pair in tan.

Additionally, the Orslow jeans arrived lastnight. The 107 is too tapered in the calf for me but the 66 is a good fit. Slimmer than I’d imagined it would be (some pics show them as positively baggy), but still far from skinny. The rise is just mid (about an inch less than the Luxires above) and the denim is a little fuzzy with some starchiness and a nice vintage blue that is more reminiscent of old Levi’s than today’s deep indigos. No significant negatives, though there is a little leg twist and the pockets are a little shallow. Overall happy with them, though they are not at all radically different to the two pairs they are replacing.

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Finally, I’m kinda eyeing the TCB Type III denim jacket. I like the fit, the colour and the softness, but I’m not sure it’s really my vibe anymore. I also have far too many light weight blue jackets, even accounting for my kids’ regularly pillaging my wardrobe.

www.denimio.com

TCB 60s Trucker Jacket

Based on the TCB owned 60's denim jacket a jacket made by modifying the silhouette etc. All parts of the chain stitch are sewn with a union special. The back of the breast pocket is a light ounce denim fabric. The fabric is same as 'TCB jeans 6
www.denimio.com www.denimio.com
 
Grand Potentate said:
What’s special about this particular one again?
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Nothing really special - just a well made replica of vintage Levi. I like the fit: high armholes, slim and not boxy, not too short or long. And the denim is just really nice. It has the same depth as Oni and looks great with the gold thread. And half the price of the usual top-tier brands.

TCB (Two Cats Brand) is a really good not-crazy-expensive Japanese outfit. Makes me want to explore their jeans, as well.
 
Dropbear said:
Nothing really special - just a well made replica of vintage Levi. I like the fit: high armholes, slim and not boxy, not too short or long. And the denim is just really nice. It has the same depth as Oni and looks great with the gold thread. And half the price of the usual top-tier brands.

TCB (Two Cats Brand) is a really good not-crazy-expensive Japanese outfit. Makes me want to explore their jeans, as well.
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I like this one a lot more:

tcbjeans.myshopify.com

New S40's Jacket

We've decided to renew the S40's Jacket, which we've been making for the past five years. At the time, the theme was to take inspiration from vintage styles, but to offer a more comfortable fit by shortening the length and slimming the armholes. However, as time passed and we re-examined the...
tcbjeans.myshopify.com

has some unique details.
 
Grand Potentate said:
I like this one a lot more:

tcbjeans.myshopify.com

New S40's Jacket

We've decided to renew the S40's Jacket, which we've been making for the past five years. At the time, the theme was to take inspiration from vintage styles, but to offer a more comfortable fit by shortening the length and slimming the armholes. However, as time passed and we re-examined the...
tcbjeans.myshopify.com

has some unique details.
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Meh. Probably just a Gen X thing, but I really like Type IIIs over all the others
 
after childhood, I never found denim jackets attractive. I last had one in the early 90s when I cut my shoulder length hair. That way I wouldn't have to tear off the sleeves and sew Motörhead and Metallica badges.
 
Thruth said:
after childhood, I never found denim jackets attractive. I last had one in the early 90s when I cut my shoulder length hair. That way I wouldn't have to tear off the sleeves and sew Motörhead and Metallica badges.
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I had an oversized acid wash denim Type III in high school and after that, they were all ecru, black or suede. Guess I’m going Full Bogan now?
 
Dropbear said:
I had an oversized acid wash denim Type III in high school and after that, they were all ecru, black or suede. Guess I’m going Full Bogan now?
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hahahahaha. I also realize I don't like light jackets and I'd rather buy a lined canvas trucker, which are mostly variations on the Type III. Same like I'd rather have a chambray shirt than a denim one.
 
Thruth said:
hahahahaha. I also realize I don't like light jackets and I'd rather buy a lined canvas trucker, which are mostly variations on the Type III. Same like I'd rather have a chambray shirt than a denim one.
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I get it. And you have the climate to justify it. I’m all about the light jackets these days, since I can get more wear out of them.

I love the heavy CXL leather jacket I have, but I just put it away for another year having only worn it a few times.

Thruth said:
where did you score it from?
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Denimio
 
Thruth said:
hahahahaha. I also realize I don't like light jackets and I'd rather buy a lined canvas trucker, which are mostly variations on the Type III. Same like I'd rather have a chambray shirt than a denim one.
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Or you can get a Levi’s x Folsom trucker jacket in waxed canvas.
 
Dropbear said:
Better, daylight pic of the Orslow 66’s:

View attachment 49674
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These were sold as ‘one wash’ and ‘expect minimal shrinkage’. First wash and the waist shrank about 2/3 of an inch and the length maybe an inch - and I’m cool with that. But the whole leg width also shrunk, making them thigh huggers and the opening went form 8.5” to 7.75” (def wont fit engineers under them now).

It’s annoying, but I’m not unhappy with the fit now and will still get plenty of wear out of them . It does mean I need to buy another (wider) pair.

I think I’ll take a punt on the Chinese made Bronson jeans next.
 
doghouse said:
If any jeans fans are interested, Raleigh Denim is running their last batch of White Oak Cone denim now. I snagged a pair last month, as my Cone Mills 505s are basically shot by now. They are MTO so take a bit to get, but highly recommend. They are making maybe 50 pairs I think?
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Oh fuck. I see Vidalia Mills just went under. Who is gonna get those White Oak looms now?
 
Dropbear said:
Oh fuck. I see Vidalia Mills just went under. Who is gonna get those White Oak looms now?
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Was supposed to be auctioned last week but it was put off again. It's a full meal deal; land + factory + contents. No piecing out.

As an aside, I twigged to it first on r/rawdenim, and then found the auction details and the messed up off again/on again chronology. Two credit unions are owed $32 million, so mebbe they think they own them. The town owns and it is their sheriffs auction.
 
Crompers still paying top dollar for someone else’s fades:

 
Bronson replica of the 1955 Levi’s 501s. For $100 these are amazing. Fills the gap I had for wide hem jeans to go over engineer boots:

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^
I gave these a cold soak before wearing them. First, I gave the top block a warm soak for a little extra waist and hip shrinkage, which worked really well. I want a fuller leg for engineer boots but I don’t need them hanging off my arse. I think it worked well, but I’ll know for sure once they completely dry.

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I ended up returning the TCB Type 3 jacket I bought earlier this year - the chest measurement was good, but the armholes so narrow that it felt restrictive when I raised my arms and pinched in the armpits. Shame, as it was a beautiful jacket.

Now I’m thinking about getting either a Type 2 or a Lee 101J. To be work with casual chinos, so while vintage is an option I don’t want anything too worn-out looking.

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LOL. I decided to put on some jeans today to take the kid to Memorial City Mall for ice skating. Horrible mistake.....
 
I guess I’m on a denim jacket kick lately. Picked up a vintage Lee Storm Rider from the 70s and thinking about getting a Wrangler repro.

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RepeatingPattern said:
Storm riders are the best design. I hope you found one that fits; sizing was all over the place throughout the decades.
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Same! The measurements look good (with a classic short length). I’d love to get a good 60s version with the wool blanket lining, but those get pricey. This is a very good condition 70s jacket with a synthetic blanket.
 
I just saw that Indigofera now offer a real high-rise (13-14”), with a straight leg (down to a 9” opening). In some pics the thighs look a bit slim but overall I dig it - kinda like vintage 70s Wranglers.

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RepeatingPattern said:
Storm riders are the best design. I hope you found one that fits; sizing was all over the place throughout the decades.
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You’re not wrong about the sizing! I’m a true 38” chest and this is tagged a 44R. The fit is comfortable/relaxed and good for winter layering. I could size down to a 42R comfortably for a tighter (Heath Ledger above) fit without layers but that’s about it.

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Indigofera Kain jeans just arrived. Nice high rise and boot-friendly opening, without being super baggy or boot-cut.

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sirloin said:
They look great.
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They might be the most flattering and versatile jeans I’ve owned. My only complaint is the pockets, like Orslow, are stupid shallow. I can’t carry a phone in my pocket and sit down, without it getting pushed out. Even when standing, the top cm of the phone is sticking out of the pocket.
 
I can’t endorse double denim and I still say your recent acquisitions look too short on you resulting in a weird silhouette but that’s still a nice looking jacket and I say that as someone who prefers the classic Levi trucker over the Lee.

Maybe this one looks slightly longer than some of the others you listed which contributes to a better look overall?

I still say chasing very high rise jeans and pairing with very short vintage jackets is not doing you any favours. Like everything there’s a happy medium here.
 
Great White Snark said:
I still say chasing very high rise jeans and pairing with very short vintage jackets is not doing you any favours. Like everything there’s a happy medium here.
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Well you’re really not going to like this one, haha.

Red Tornado’s copy of the Wrangler 24MJZ. The action back and hidden elastic straps really make this comfortable.

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I got this on a whim, having wanted an original for years and then finding the repros are so cheap. Still that’s two blue unlined denim jackets, so I’ll probably keep one and give the other to my son.
 
Zé Ferreira said:
With how the forum has grown in even a week, I figured I could do my best at heading up an all-purpose denim thread for questions, fit pics, etc. Again - no limits here on branding, style, use, anything. Just post pictures of your jeans, ask questions about fit or sizing, and have fun.

FWIW, I'm a firm believer in Momotaro.

I also am an advocate of "purchase denim that fits you" and not a SIZE DOWN A BAJILLION!!- type.

Also, wash your damn jeans.
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Absolutely — fit over label every time. Momotaro is great, but I’d add that once you find a denim that feels right in cut and weight, it really pays to stick with it and let it develop character over time.


Also, couldn’t agree more on washing — a proper rinse now and then keeps things soft and prevents unnecessary wear, especially on heavier fabrics.
 
Indogofera jeans and vintage (Japanese 1990s repro of the original sateen 1960s) Lee Westerner jacket. I’ve spent years here bemoaning my short legs (I’m 6’0 with a 30” inseam), so happy to find some casual stuff that is more flattering for me

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