Random Style Thoughts

[Thruth]

So, as I have gone full-on SWD wardrobe, I have some thoughts.

I've gravitated towards Rag and Bone for chinos. Well made, hard-wearing, mid-rise and fit 2 works for me. Soft and smooth fabric. Not cheap. Naked and Famous make nice slim chinos, low rise, which for some would be a no-go. Quality construction and a nice fabric, with a crisper, firmer hand than the Rag & Bone. Both have predictable fits so easy to buy online. There are tons o'chinos out there, but R&B almost exclusively for me.

My favourite trousers are OG 107/Baker pants. Most have rises to the natural waist, and higher. There are enough slim brands versus the military wide leg cut.

Lightweight - Stan Ray Fatigue (slim). Affordable, well made, scarce.

Normal weight - I have Tellason, Naked and Famous, Sauce Zhan, and Orslow. I don't see anything that puts Orslow head and shoulders above the others for the premium price.

Summer shirts - Lucky Brand cotton/linen blend western shirts with snaps. That's all I need.

In remembrance of the late, grating Walker/Fritzl/Gerd, horses for courses. YMMV. And I've been re-reading the Operation Paprika thread on SF.

 

[Thruth]

I can't wear rigid leather soled shoes. Even Dainite soles are no longer comfy. Turned away from hand welted and GYW. For shame.

Instead, zero drop boots, Moc-toe boots with wedge soles and trainers. It might be heresy, but Yeezy 350s are comfy as shit. Just sayin' is all.

 

[Thruth]

I've reduced to three pairs of jeans. Orslow 107 black, 3Sixteen ST 120x indigo, and Momotaro G005-MZ Dotan indigo. I wear the Momotaros 95%+ of the time.

 

[Dropbear]

Buzz Rickson chinos are my go to. For OG107s, Bronson aren’t bad.

I have three pairs of jeans in heavy rotation: Sugar Cain, Freenote and Indogofera. Plus some Hard Yakka shorts around the house.

I wear a lot of loop wheel t-shirts and Mr Freedom remain my faves with Whitesville close behind.

I’m either in engineer boots or flip flops. Love the monkey boots I got made last year, but they haven’t got as much wear as the slip-ons. I may pull out the RMWs for international travel though.

Lately I’ve been buying short sleeve collared shirts - mostly N&F, which are good for the price and about as ‘business casual as I can manage these days.

 

[fxh]

So, as I have gone full-on SWD wardrobe, I have some thoughts.

I've gravitated towards Rag and Bone for chinos. Well made, hard-wearing, mid-rise and fit 2 works for me. Soft and smooth fabric. Not cheap. Naked and Famous make nice slim chinos, low rise, which for some would be a no-go. Quality construction and a nice fabric, with a crisper, firmer hand than the Rag & Bone. Both have predictable fits so easy to buy online. There are tons o'chinos out there, but R&B almost exclusively for me.

My favourite trousers are OG 107/Baker pants. Most have rises to the natural waist, and higher. There are enough slim brands versus the military wide leg cut.

Lightweight - Stan Ray Fatigue (slim). Affordable, well made, scarce.

Normal weight - I have Tellason, Naked and Famous, Sauce Zhan, and Orslow. I don't see anything that puts Orslow head and shoulders above the others for the premium price.

Summer shirts - Lucky Brand cotton/linen blend western shirts with snaps. That's all I need.

In remembrance of the late, grating Walker/Fritzl/Gerd, horses for courses. YMMV. And I've been re-reading the Operation Paprika thread on SF.

Yeah - I'm mostly in SWD or "workwear" these days.

I've got rid of over half my suits and am down to about 6 or 7 now. of which I only wear about 3, and then I only wear suit and tie about 5 times in a year. Same with wool trousers and sportcoat. Rarely wear wool trousers. Sometimes wear cord with sportcoat, sometimes wear sturdy twill with jacket. I have about 20 + pairs of Goodyear welted leather shoes, Edward Green, Crocket & Jones, Churches, Grenson - then Loakes , Trickers, Florsheim antique gunboats etc plus assorted other footwear including 4 pair of RM Williams. 90% of them have sat in boxes for 5 years without a wear.

On my feet most days are Cariuma Catiba Pro off white canvas or black with gum sole low tops with a couple of pair of hi tops. I do wear a pair of suede brogue shoes with off white gum sole, Desert Boots and Playboy knockoffs occasionally or my Doc Martins. I have 4 pair of Stan Ray Loose fatigues, Olive, Black, White, and khaki/beige all high rise except the white ones - however the white has the best thickest twill. Despite the descriptions that aren't all that loose. Except around the thighs for me. The legs are straight rather than wide - with about a 9" opening.

Strangely for all the Stan Ray Made in USA PR - I think all of the ones i have are Made In China.

The last pair I got, the khaki, about 18 months ago - are bit disappointingly thin-ish material and I had to search around the world and get them from Canada. Stan Ray used to have a local distributor here in Melbourne but closed it down. Even then there was crazy Quality issues - I had to send 3 pair of OGs back dues to crazy sizing fit issues, like being 3" out in waist and one pair being 7.5" leg opening instead of 9".

Like good old Dropbear I have found Olderbest/ Bronson/MBBCAR/Non-Stock/Okonkwo/Timecather (all the same company as far as I can see) are Ok, ,material is good and solid, workmanship ok to good, prices cheap enough to take a chance, and surprisingly I have found their customer service - returns etc to be good. So have a few of their things, Chamray work shirts style good to great, Army style chinos OK but too wide legged to be ideal and jeans OK. All very cheap. Some details not right for me - I hate button flies F'rinstance.

I have had a bit of success with some Uniqlo items, but most are garment dyed and a bit thin, some with unnecessary details eg carpenters pants. Lately most of their stuff hasn't worked. Stupid Barrel Pants, wide thighs and narrow ankles etc.

I still like casual stuff/streetwear to look clean and smart not sloppy and scruffy and self consciously "hip" or "making a statement"

Jeans are problem - the better ones I have are from Luxire many years ago when they had good denim. Except the leg opening is too narrow for me these days - under 8". Not sure how their denim is these days - a lot seems to have elastane in it - a no go for me.

Much of workwear is too expensive or/and not quite right for me. Many seem to have gone overboard on the imagined depression era gawky look that isn't - and never was - flattering. Trouser legs too wide, thighs and bum too baggy and even seam length too short with no let down allowance.

 

[sirloin]

In remembrance of the late, grating Walker/Fritzl/Gerd, horses for courses. YMMV. And I've been re-reading the Operation Paprika thread on SF.

I've always liked that one.

For me, there is not much difference. Wardrobe is a mix of swd and semi-casual—have been that way for atleast 15 years. Still use GYW and handwelted leather shoos 95% of the time, outside of high summer. Want to add a bit more semi casual trousers/jackets/suirts, and if possible want to restart travelling for tailoring again next year. Not because I need to, but for the experiences.

As such I've always wanted enough clothes to be able to let the mood decide, but not so much that items are newer worn and newer wear out or need repairs. As an example, for my usage I've always found 3 pairs of jeans is a good balance, for variaty and wear. This combined with lack of funds, have kept me from making too many expensive mistakes.

So over the years, I'm not really changing direction, but mostly honing in on style and shopping for quality.

 

[Thruth]

I'm umbrella-less by choice. That said, it has been rainy of late. When I wore suits, an umbrella + Loro Piana Storm System technology in any brand's raincoat was solid protection. Had a Macintosh and loved the faint tire smell. Like Knize Ten without the petrol.

I have shells/jackets in many waterproof breathable and not so breathable fabrics. Goretex is probably the best rain protection when you need it, all things considered. Guaranteed to keep you dry, clammy, and sounding like a garbage bag. But I have an Alpha SV because it is the goat. For extended downpours.

Event is as waterproof as Gore-Tex (20,000mm), breaths better, which can make you colder on initial overheating than Gore-Tex. PU laminate can peel over time, and you have to be more diligent on re-applying DWR, but I've had a Westcomb Mirage backcountry shell and it's 15 years old. a bit less garbage bagesque. A goat but not made anymore. For extended downpours.

Schoeller C-Change. It's like a pinecone with the fabric pores opening when warm and closing when cold. Same downsides as Event. Really breathable and as waterproof as the other two. I've had a Triple Aught Designs Stealth hoody since 2010 or so and it is for three season rain protection. Hell, when my watering bowl blew a line one winter it when what I was wearing for the hour it took to wrench that motherfucker into submission. It's also quiet. Problem is, it's hardly used outside of the motorcycle touring sector, so not many choices.

Ventile/Etaproof. I dig this stuff. Single layer is very water-resistant. Think Seattle/Vancouver constant showers. I once walked for two hours in Vancouver constant drizzle for two hours wearing a Wings + Horns single layer Ventile down ranch jacket and it got a bit damp but did not ruin the down. Makes for nice three season jackets just because Ventile has a nice crisp feel. Makes for nice casual pants. Double layer is waterproof. Fewer examples in the market. I have a pair of double layer chino/mild field pant that are very business casual with the ability to be worn in sideways rain. I've used an Ecologyst hooded anorak for the past couple of years more than anything else. Ventile is my ball hat of choice. Stiksen, Varsity Headwear and Supreme.

Waxed canvas. Like Ventile, is old technology. Good when there is a chance of rain in cool weather. A style choice with side benefits. What I've learned is that there is a happy place with fabric weight that is water-resistant and burly enough to layer under to extend the range. Filson Tin Cloth needs to be broken in by truck. I gave mine to my SIL and he wore it on the railway daily for three years. Finally, it was broken in. I don't need nuthin' no more that take that kind of break in time, 'cause I ain't got time for breakin' in. I find less than 10-11 ounce to be too flimsy especially if unlined. For example, Filson Tin Cloth is 14 ounce versus Filson Shelter Cloth at 11 oz. Shelter cloth is burley enough but easy to wear off the peg. I'm off Barbour. I was disappointed by the Winter Sapper. It was not that much warmer than the standard Sapper and the proper hood was too goofy. I settled on a Supreme British Millerain hooded workwear bomber. Nice weight and construction. A better Carhart. I rotate than with a Pretty Green Millerain hooded field jacket.

Ulitimate non-breathable waterproof:

Klattermusen Cutan fabric:

 

[Thruth]

Buzz Rickson chinos are my go to. For OG107s, Bronson aren’t bad.

I have three pairs of jeans in heavy rotation: Sugar Cain, Freenote and Indogofera. Plus some Hard Yakka shorts around the house.

I wear a lot of loop wheel t-shirts and Mr Freedom remain my faves with Whitesville close behind.

I’m either in engineer boots or flip flops. Love the monkey boots I got made last year, but they haven’t got as much wear as the slip-ons. I may pull out the RMWs for international travel though.

Lately I’ve been buying short sleeve collared shirts - mostly N&F, which are good for the price and about as ‘business casual as I can manage these days.

I don't wear tees that aren't merino and long sleeved.

 

[Thruth]

I've always liked that one.

For me, there is not much difference. Wardrobe is a mix of swd and semi-casual—have been that way for atleast 15 years. Still use GYW and handwelted leather shoos 95% of the time, outside of high summer. Want to add a bit more semi casual trousers/jackets/suirts, and if possible want to restart travelling for tailoring again next year. Not because I need to, but for the experiences.

As such I've always wanted enough clothes to be able to let the mood decide, but not so much that items are newer worn and newer wear out or need repairs. As an example, for my usage I've always found 3 pairs of jeansbox is a good balance, for variaty and wear. This combined with lack of funds, have kept me from making too many expensive mistakes.

So over the years, I'm not really changing direction, but mostly honing in on style and shopping for quality.

My Paprikas are in a box somewhere. Zottolo passed on them, which was why Gerd hated him.