ConchitaWurst
Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
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1. ah, ok
2. honing my shill skills, ololo ... in his pants.
3. not at all, sorry
TOGLIATTI
Well-Known Member
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https://www.cardinalescarpe.it/collezione/mocassini-uomo.html
Please be our forum guinea pig
A real-life acquaintance of mine is very happy with his pair
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Unless you are Leit, then it refers to Bastardized Johnny Lobb
makes sense, there is nothing big about a factory made gyw shoe, just because its slightly above EG, which on the other hand "rambles" with AE seconds, ololo.
glad you framed the big picture, cheers
glad you framed the big picture, cheers
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Olo. Well, I framed it in the context of Leit's Lobbs being boat shoes not as an indictment of Lobbs being shite because they are just a GYW shoe.
Of course, there is no substitute for bespoke. But let's stick with RTW.
Can you provide a reference for BJL's and what their equivalent in American seconds are? If EG = AE 2nds = AE2NDSEG then BJL = ?
Maybe some RTW recommendations for top top quality RTW GYW, Blake, Blake Rapid, pegged/handwelted or cemented shoos that outshine BJL and AE2NDEG?
Reasonably easy to try on in person?
Reasonable availability for purchase?
Your pals Gus & Peter might say RTW StC, no? But that can't be. Ascot's big $€£ pre-made Vass offerings?
If Big Johnny Lobbs are not really BIG in terms of quality RTW shoes, do you think maybe the new RTW line from Yohei Fukada might become Big Yohei Fukada's? Or the Meccariello RTW line may be Big Antonio Meccariello's?
Your input would be valuable here. It would be good to have you recommend something in place of what you don't recommend.
Both available from the not yet opened top top SwedishShoeShop™ The Sabot Shoes currently being shilled on IG.
The Fukada's will be slightly more in cost than another of your fave brands, G&G (would G&G's be American rejects like Alden thirds?).
copied that. will get back to this in due time.
ps: I didn't say JL is shit. of course, there is a substiute for bespoke as it is not for anyone on so many levels ... the JL boat shoe is one of the nicest, I have seen, though.
ps: I didn't say JL is shit. of course, there is a substiute for bespoke as it is not for anyone on so many levels ... the JL boat shoe is one of the nicest, I have seen, though.
gambit50
Well-Known Member
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- 93
Is that so? What a prolific little n00B poster you are. And the handle, well, how disappointing. Now, if it were EG instead of P with that surname then it would be noble. I wonder if anyone will pickup the pseudo double entendre in the names.
At first, I figured you possibly a
ConchitaWurst
sock or something of that nature given the huge EuroTroika™ circle jerk going round with your posts. But now I see you are JUST A COMMON SHILL!!!!!!!!!!
AND WHY ARE YOU SHOUTING WITH YOUR USERNAME!!!!!
So completely rude and bereft of tact and/or etiquette.
Finally, PLEASE LIKE MY POSTS
ConchitaWurst
Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
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Is that so? What a prolific little n00B poster you are. And the handle, well, how disappointing. Now, if it were EG instead of P with that surname then it would be noble. I wonder if anyone will pickup the pseudo double entendre in the names.
At first, I figured you possibly a
But now I see you are JUST A COMMON SHILL!!!!!!!!!!
AND WHY ARE YOU SHOUTING WITH YOUR USERNAME!!!!!
So completely rude and bereft of tact and/or etiquette.
Finally, PLEASE LIKE MY POSTS
<3
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Wow, just WOW!!! Fukuda shoos are the nicest l have ever seen. Been a massive fan for a couple of years now. I hope his rtw are hand welted. Will be good to see what he charges for those.
let's see what I can make of this.
of course and jfyi(all), I'll leave the disposable dainite discussion out of this exchange. also, don't worry if you are under eighty kilogramms(160 lbs.) quality of shoes is nothing to worry about. buy whatever floats your boat or go the lelandj route. nothing else matters ..., tongue in cheek.
rule of thumb: fit is paramount, availability is a crux.
basics: there are three big schools of shoemaking. english, italian and austro-hungarian. japanese is none of them, so it depends where the guy has been trained. english rule style over fit, bummer.
while my experience with RTW is rather limited. I always found churchs very authentic and well made. it was the most popular brand among the jeunesse dorée in my home country. consider, that the majority of this people incl. me(not jd though) went the bespoke route, due to the easy access and the price ratio in comparison to english RTW. go figure.
currently and if availability is an obvious issue, I would look into c&j(hi Lord Buckley ), churchs and alfred sargents, which offer a good value proposition.
stateside there should be a wide offer of italian brands, which are among the big three. compare it to label drinking with italian wine. no big risk.
as I always mentioned. my experience with rtw is quite limited. also you
Thruth
gave me a very good input on John Lobb RTW plus your JLStJ , while I have to say my vintage JLStJ are crap, more or less.
meccariello is
ConchitaWurst
territory.
fukuda is japanese and lobb trained. make your own conclusion. no recommendation from my part.
also, I'm not discussing in a broken record manner my disdain for alden and EG. no algorithm included, I recognize crap, when I see it in flesh. alden is hitting some out of the park sometimes, though. buy american, just buy vintage and you are good to go.
did I miss something?
of course and jfyi(all), I'll leave the disposable dainite discussion out of this exchange. also, don't worry if you are under eighty kilogramms(160 lbs.) quality of shoes is nothing to worry about. buy whatever floats your boat or go the lelandj route. nothing else matters ..., tongue in cheek.
rule of thumb: fit is paramount, availability is a crux.
basics: there are three big schools of shoemaking. english, italian and austro-hungarian. japanese is none of them, so it depends where the guy has been trained. english rule style over fit, bummer.
while my experience with RTW is rather limited. I always found churchs very authentic and well made. it was the most popular brand among the jeunesse dorée in my home country. consider, that the majority of this people incl. me(not jd though) went the bespoke route, due to the easy access and the price ratio in comparison to english RTW. go figure.
currently and if availability is an obvious issue, I would look into c&j(hi Lord Buckley ), churchs and alfred sargents, which offer a good value proposition.
stateside there should be a wide offer of italian brands, which are among the big three. compare it to label drinking with italian wine. no big risk.
as I always mentioned. my experience with rtw is quite limited. also you
Thruth
gave me a very good input on John Lobb RTW plus your JLStJ , while I have to say my vintage JLStJ are crap, more or less.meccariello is
ConchitaWurst
territory.fukuda is japanese and lobb trained. make your own conclusion. no recommendation from my part.
also, I'm not discussing in a broken record manner my disdain for alden and EG. no algorithm included, I recognize crap, when I see it in flesh. alden is hitting some out of the park sometimes, though. buy american, just buy vintage and you are good to go.
did I miss something?
viaattovannucci
No Custom Title
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Cheers!let's see what I can make of this.
of course and jfyi(all), I'll leave the disposable dainite discussion out of this exchange. also, don't worry if you are under eighty kilogramms(160 lbs.) quality of shoes is nothing to worry about. buy whatever floats your boat or go the lelandj route. nothing else matters ..., tongue in cheek.
rule of thumb: fit is paramount, availability is a crux.
basics: there are three big schools of shoemaking. english, italian and austro-hungarian. japanese is none of them, so it depends where the guy has been trained. english rule style over fit, bummer.
while my experience with RTW is rather limited. I always found churchs very authentic and well made. it was the most popular brand among the jeunesse dorée in my home country. consider, that the majority of this people incl. me(not jd though) went the bespoke route, due to the easy access and the price ratio in comparison to english RTW. go figure.
currently and if availability is an obvious issue, I would look into c&j(hi Lord Buckley ), churchs and alfred sargents, which offer a good value proposition.
stateside there should be a wide offer of italian brands, which are among the big three. compare it to label drinking with italian wine. no big risk.
as I always mentioned. my experience with rtw is quite limited. also you
meccariello is
fukuda is japanese and lobb trained. make your own conclusion. no recommendation from my part.
also, I'm not discussing in a broken record manner my disdain for alden and EG. no algorithm included, I recognize crap, when I see it in flesh. alden is hitting some out of the park sometimes, though. buy american, just buy vintage and you are good to go.
did I miss something?
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let's see what I can make of this.
of course and jfyi(all), I'll leave the disposable dainite discussion out of this exchange. also, don't worry if you are under eighty kilogramms(160 lbs.) quality of shoes is nothing to worry about. buy whatever floats your boat or go the lelandj route. nothing else matters ..., tongue in cheek.
rule of thumb: fit is paramount, availability is a crux.
basics: there are three big schools of shoemaking. english, italian and austro-hungarian. japanese is none of them, so it depends where the guy has been trained. english rule style over fit, bummer.
while my experience with RTW is rather limited. I always found churchs very authentic and well made. it was the most popular brand among the jeunesse dorée in my home country. consider, that the majority of this people incl. me(not jd though) went the bespoke route, due to the easy access and the price ratio in comparison to english RTW. go figure.
currently and if availability is an obvious issue, I would look into c&j(hi Lord Buckley ), churchs and alfred sargents, which offer a good value proposition.
stateside there should be a wide offer of italian brands, which are among the big three. compare it to label drinking with italian wine. no big risk.
as I always mentioned. my experience with rtw is quite limited. also you
meccariello is
fukuda is japanese and lobb trained. make your own conclusion. no recommendation from my part.
also, I'm not discussing in a broken record manner my disdain for alden and EG. no algorithm included, I recognize crap, when I see it in flesh. alden is hitting some out of the park sometimes, though. buy american, just buy vintage and you are good to go.
did I miss something?
Thanks! Yes, you missed a couple of things but no big deal.
Pre-Prada Church's or in your opinion are the current just as good. Would not want to spend $800 Canadian on shite.
Which level of Alfred Sargent? Last time they were offered in North America (handgrade) they were only a few hundred dollars less than EG. That much better? Can't find their hand grade online either easily.
Italians? Which ones. Priced pretty close to EG here.
So I should say no to these eh?
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Yes, the Church's have more material that goes into the making of them in the areas where it counts so they are made to hold up well. It doesn't matter if the Church's have lower spi on the soles, it is how they build them that matters. They have the build quality of the higher end shoes, and this makes them a very respectable gyw shoe. Be careful of the lower line gyw Church's that are now made that has less materials in the making of them, they are gutless like C&J benchgrade.
I am pretty sure Fukuda worked at Cleverley for a few years. He is a real artist and detailed maker like many of those Japanese.
I really like how solid many of my big John Lobbs are...nice thick leather and solid where it counts....real tough old birds. E.G does feel flimsier however they are still built to hold their shape well after years of use. E.G are definitely built noticeably better than mid end shoes, they are made to a highend gyw standard with lots of materials used in their making.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Since post Prada the Church's company has introduced a massive range of shoes including glued soled dress shoes, blake, fairstitch construction, goodyear welted with paper thin soles, goodyear welted with less materials in the making and cheaper leathers (sadly very popular shoes now) and the Church's built to the old standards. I have seen it all.
The pre Prada Church's were better finished than the best of the post Prada Church's. Why? The pre Prada Church's had a slightly bevelled nicely finished waist where-as the post Church's has a crude flat waist with no nice finishing to it. In general the pre Church's has better finishing on the soles and leather and inside where-as the post Church's are more crude.
What about quality of leather? That is too hard to say because the leather quality varies from shoe to shoe because they cut many pairs from the one hide. I have pre Prada Church's made from really nice leather and many post pairs with lesser leather, but l have also seen post Church's with quite decent leather.
In sum, the quality of post Prada Church's has the ability to be very good IF you find the good ones, but they will not be as sculptured and finished as the pre Prada ones. Yes, they have cut corners on the old classics in terms of cosmetics, and they are certainly putting out bucketloads of junk now, but they still sell the good old Church's of decent quality, but harder to find now.
I will always value my Church's as among my favourite gyw pairs. Here's why:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=11555
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Nice posts
The Shooman
.Supports the point that I was trying to make that calling EG & BJL shite is just misinformation. Plus adds to the discussion rather than just calling something shite and providing few if any solid examples of alternatives.
They are well made and above most RTW shoes.
Are they worth the price? What really is? But they do make many others pale in comparison when you see, feel and wear them.
Church's are good but to find the good ones is harder these days as many of the lesser level ones are what the stockists bring in. Corrected grain and binder leather do not help matters.
Overall there has been a decrease in quality since being acquired by Prada.
I just bought a pair of new old stock Alan Macafee loafers. Probably are from the time of when McAfee was absorbed by Church's in the early 80's. Lovely leather, well made. I bought them because they are an amazing shoe that is all but forgotten now. testament to Macafee and Church's. Had to be owned by someone who knew what they were all about.
Fukada worked for several of the Northampton makers, EG included but was at Cleverley to learn bespoke.
The Shooman
A Pretty Face
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Nice posts
Supports the point that I was trying to make that calling EG & BJL shite is just misinformation.
Calling such shoes shite is bound to alienate people because it is too much of an extreme statement. Lobb can last decades, and even if the gemming does come apart it can be repaired at the factory. Is Lobb rtw a real shoo? Of course not! But it is an excellent imitation shoo and a great factory product.
If they give a person great satisfaction they probably are worth the price, especially if you have them for 20 years.
gyw = made to last a decade or more with good care, and some have them for longer
hand welted = made to last a lifetime with good care. Solved many problems in the repair process.
One factory in Oz report it is common for gyw shoes have their gemming start to come apart after 7 years, but most don't come apart, none-the-less the gemming failure is still common. A top workshop in Oz also reports gemming failure as common. Simon Crompton's Edwartd Greens had gemming failure before the 5 year mark, but he had it glued back at the factory,so no big deal, but certainly no way near as good as hand welted for too many reasons to discuss here. I wrote an essay of thousands of words why hand welted is superior too all the other constructions, but l never posted it (it was bound to be 10,000 words when finished for a website of a friend, but too detailed and boring for most so l scrapped it).
Yes, many of these lesser gyw Church's use thinner leathers, cheaper leathers, lesser finishing and less materials in the making. The salesman will try to tell you that they are now cheaper price because Church's retooled their factory, but don't buy it, they have brought down the quality of a certain range that is commonly available now to expand the market place. Church's will also tell you that all Church's shoes are made the same, but that is bollocks also...it is misleading info.Naturally all gyw are made the same, but not all gyw Church's are the same. See what l am getting at? Church's are using tricks to baffle brains, and it works! When you let them know that you know they do come clean and confess haha.
Yep, lots of junk stuff now, but still some great classics made to decent quality.
btw, some grain corrected leather is very high quality. I've seen some flawless grain corrected leather. How? Because l checked the underside and it was like velvet and impeccable, but some like a smooth finish. Eventhough it is called grain corrected, in cases of high end leather one could argue it is not really grain corrected at all because their are no real faults to correct. Silvano Lattanzi has been known to make corrected grain bespoke shoes. Do you think Silvano is going to use junk?...NO WAY!!!
I've got Church's with really nice grain corrected leather and l have others with bad grain corrected leather.
Thanks for the info.
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Was simply pulling your chain to see if you would have a heart attack.
you're welcome.
a few thoughts:
no one on DW is interested in shoes. its just yadda yadda, hence I told you this thread is a trainwreck per se. there is no output, bummer.
literally, you can pull my chain, but as soon shoey and me post/reply to the same statements, its more controversial than christians and islamists. thats why I'm "against" this kind of discussion. it just makes no sense. we're not on the same page and obviously there is no room for sarcasm, also.
I'll leave it at that. no need to exaggerate ...
this tells me what?
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No one is interested in shoes on DW? Olololo. Slight overstatement. There is output. Look for it.
You make black/white statements. Fill in he grey, share some of your knowledge to inform the unwashed masses. Maybe they will switch from IG oglers to semi-knowledgable junior shoomen.
I know. That is asking too much from you. You prefer love/hate. Love to hate DW. But still you lurk. We know what you hate but tell us what you love.
All kinds of room for sarcasm on both sides, especially when you open a door to an adjacent room.
Where Fukada worked was confirming what
The Shooman
had suggested but wasn't sure about. Providing information. Remember, the grey bits? Adds to discussion, which turns train wrecks threads into useable threads.As I have said before, you have lots to offer wrt bespoke and shoe construction. You just refuse to participate in any constructive manner.
But that is your choice.
I think I will post a poll:
What does Walker hate most:
Some choices:
EG
G&G
JLP
JLSJ
Dumpster Diver
Peter Zottolo
Gus
Dainite
The usual suspects
FriendCustomer
Awful Tie Aficionado
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sirloin
Well-Known Member
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Quite the contrary.
actually, I do not hate DW. I love good shoes and I have them. you have no clue, what I hate, no you haven't, sorry. actually, I try not to hate, literally I banned this word from my vocabulary. mother tongue and ingrish.
lurking is not forbidden, is it?
I've been called out for shilling ..., alright. I cannot talk about my knowledge ignoring my experience, can I? If you can answer this, I'm all ears.
whoever the usual suspects are? I dunno ...
ps: your list was unfortunately completely irrelevant. I left EG because its crap and I stand to my statement. no hate included. certainly not.
psps: gus walbolt is a motherfucking asshole and he knows that. peter zottolo is a parvenu and was bitten by the bug to implement his ancestry into styfo format. I cannot blame him for that and I definitely do not hate him from not understanding what a pair of good shoes is. consider, he sent a pair through you on the way to paul chang aka jerrybrowne(styfo handle), who has more money than mind, anyway. also, his wife(pz)is hot and does not have a nouevau riche nail job and food on her plate. think of fipsi - the fucking bastard.
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tell me more, pls. I never got the feeling and when I talked the talk, I was called out for shilling, go figure. kindergarten, copy that.
nice. as long as you can't see the quibbles on this bloody shoes you pictured, it is difficult for me ... no miracle.
FriendCustomer
Awful Tie Aficionado
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Actually no. You were called out for attempting to use the services of a known shiller Gus Walabolt to help you implement your maftei scam on San Fran style fo members. There is a difference. But you were never one for reading comprehension. Capiche.
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Thank goodness you have banned "hate" from your vocabulary.
Dislike. That would be a more appropriate word. Yes. Dislike.
Nothing wrong with lurking. But more talk of your love for good shoes and why they are good shoes.
You can't separate talking about shoes and shoe construction because of allegations of shilling?
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Two separate issues. You are the expert, talk about the quibbles. They were posted to get you talking.
The second issue was simply and only to provide information on where he trained.
Go back and read. The post was "will Fukada be considered BIG"
Christ, I'm getting tired of trying to get you to spit out something positive and constructive on shoe matters
Christ, get fucktard FC out of this place and we can talk. Its so fucking easy. I told you so many times w/o avail, anyway. ymmv ...
FriendCustomer
Awful Tie Aficionado
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sirloin
Well-Known Member
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All listen, when there is talk about craft. Bullshit is bullshit. We know the positions, rubber vs leather yawn. Stories and details is what matters. The rest?
no one did in the past, period. all the good shoe threads are dead and this one is full of wischi waschi. not going to waste my time anymore, sorry.
the field is free for the real experts e.g. FC, go ahead, I'm out ...
so you think, you can tell me how it went, seriously? glad you believe your own shit, ololo. btw, why is maftei a scam? I'm honestly curious?
FriendCustomer
Awful Tie Aficionado
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Yes I can. I know exactly how it went down.
I never said Maftei is a scam. Again poor reading comprehension on your part. (Why do you continuly subject us to this? Nvm). You were the scam artist, Gus was your shill, Maftei was simply the product you planned on selling to San Fran Style Fo members in a dishonest way.
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Imagine if he had executed it accurately. Maftei would've been what st Crispin's is today.
why do you stick with a false version then? nvm.
fwiw, I'm the only person, who knows what happened and we never spoke, right?
jfyi, mr. maftei doesn't even know that gus walbolt exists. mr. m. just asked me to do a research about san fran. I received a few recommendations for gus, just to find out that he is a moron and you are a fucking liar, who made offending accusations. now, go out of my way ..., quick.
hey, Rambo and
Thruth
, you must be incredibly happy to protect this guy. great effort, grats.who is he? btw and afaik, maftei sells more shoes/per year than StC. they just use different sales channels. if someone has the actual figures from StC handy, we can compare. also, no one at StC has been trained at Scheer. imo, its a different product and they never could establish their bespoke programme, go figure. its apples to oranges ..., ymmv. nvm.
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Gus. He learned from his mistakes, as seen from crispy's success in SF.