The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Lord Buckley said:
Not sure about the relevance of the placement of the matryoshka dolls.
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Yeah, it creeps me out. Lots of shoe makers place dolls next to their shoes, and l can't pretend l feel good about it. Are they dabbling in the occult and the spirit world and using low level spells???...that is the first thought that comes to my mind. Dandy shoe care does it too, and so do other shoe makers...seriously creepy stuff!

Objects can be given energy and used as tools in the occult to fulfill objectives.




 
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^They're just trying to add some visual interest to their photos or video clips. Some do it more successfully - or less creepily - than others.
 
The Shooman said:
. I was also thinking of some MTM trousers, but that depends on various factors. If they made them to good standards o/s and finished the fittings here l may be persuaded to give at least one pair of trousers a go. I don't really want to pay $1,500 for bespoke trousers.
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I have a suit and a linen jacket made by them. All good - the bloke behind the glass isn't just an alterationist - hes done proper tailoring - so if there are problems he can and does actually fix them and hes on the spot - not away somewhere else.. You can get him called in on initial measuring too which is handy. I think trousers are around $600 - $700 depending on the material.
 
Lord Buckley said:
I like the look of these and the price. Not sure about the relevance of the placement of the matryoshka dolls.



Indeed, bespoke trousers at $1,500 would need to come with a life time guarantee against being worn out and impervious to red wine, curry and spaghetti stains.
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Lord Buckley said:
I like the look of these and the price. Not sure about the relevance of the placement of the matryoshka dolls.



Indeed, bespoke trousers at $1,500 would need to come with a life time guarantee against being worn out and impervious to red wine, curry and spaghetti stains.
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Italian pants are insured against spaghetti
British pants are insured against curry - but come with dried feces
 
Cordwainer is a brand that flies out of the radar in the forums. AUS 450 is EUR 300. Do you think that they are worth EUR 300?
In Spain you can find them for around EUR 200.00 http://www.calzadosgarrido.com/cordwainer~14/marcas.aspx Also you can find them in Madrid and Barcelona airports (in Tascon if I remember correctly) I would say that Berwick is of similar quality at a cheaper price point.

Anyhow do you know an Australian brand called Trenery? Just bought a pair of chukkas for a song, quite happy with them.

I just remember, I think that Pertini is part of the Cordwainer group, more fashion orientated.. http://www.pertini.es/men-2.html
 
robertito said:
Cordwainer is a brand that flies out of the radar in the forums. AUS 450 is EUR 300. Do you think that they are worth EUR 300?
In Spain you can find them for around EUR 200.00 http://www.calzadosgarrido.com/cordwainer~14/marcas.aspx Also you can find them in Madrid and Barcelona airports (in Tascon if I remember correctly) I would say that Berwick is of similar quality at a cheaper price point.

Anyhow do you know an Australian brand called Trenery? Just bought a pair of chukkas for a song, quite happy with them.

I just remember, I think that Pertini is part of the Cordwainer group, more fashion orientated.. http://www.pertini.es/men-2.html
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Part of the problem here is The Australian Tax= the xtra costs imposed by distance from anywhere , transport costs plus a small population/ market (20 million) dispersed over a large land mass - if I go overseas I fly for 4 hours and I'm still over Australia. Hong Kong is 9 hours flight. Europe is 14 hours minimum - but mostly 20 + hours or 2 days travel. Added to this there are only really 2 major cities, MELBOURNE and Sydney with 4 million ++ each. Shoes are expensive here for these reasons plus the trend/slide to informality and sneakers with everything.
 
We all work as waiters giving beers to all drunken English people that come to La Costa on all paid package and can't even afford a Ryanair return flight
 
robertito said:
We all work as waiters giving beers to all drunken English people that come to La Costa on all paid package and can't even afford a Ryanair return flight
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"On. The. Trays!"

IMG_4892.webp
 
The Shooman said:
quite interesting and unique. The fact that they are `made in France' makes me extra curious about them. Would be good to see them in the flesh one day.
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Those are terrible photos and don't show the colour at all. They are a lovely deep reddish brown and nice leather
 
Quite curious about those shoes, fxh... I have an old pair of Cheaney brogues that look almost identical. Great shoes, but I know nothing about them - emailed Cheaney and apparently they haven't been in their catalogues and they couldn't tell me anything about their date/construction. I'll try to add some photos later
 
fxh said:
The Shooman The Shooman
Today - I picked up these near new Ted Lapidus GYW Made in France Longwings.View attachment 24794 View attachment 24795 View attachment 24796
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The Shooman said:
quite interesting and unique. The fact that they are `made in France' makes me extra curious about them. Would be good to see them in the flesh one day.
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MES said:
Quite curious about those shoes, fxh... I have an old pair of Cheaney brogues that look almost identical. Great shoes, but I know nothing about them - emailed Cheaney and apparently they haven't been in their catalogues and they couldn't tell me anything about their date/construction. I'll try to add some photos later
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Heres some slightly better pics.

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3.webp
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Thanks fxh

Here's a useless photo of my similar Cheaneys. I love the colour, need to search for a replacement soon.
received_10155807813769797.webp
 
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The Shooman The Shooman
Shooey - I saw a picture of some Churches Double Monks the other day and they looked very similar to a pair of Peal & Co Double Monks I have.
Peal & Co is Brooks Brothers Shoe brand - is it likely they would have been made by Churches?
 
fxh said:
The Shooman The Shooman
Shooey - I saw a picture of some Churches Double Monks the other day and they looked very similar to a pair of Peal & Co Double Monks I have.
Peal & Co is Brooks Brothers Shoe brand - is it likely they would have been made by Churches?
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fxh - I don't think so. Peal used to be its own brand many years back, although I think that it primarily made leathergoods such as suitcases and briefcases, rather than shoes. From memory, the business failed and BB bought the name and then started assigning the Peal & Co label to upper-tier leather goods and shoes offered by BB. As far as I'm aware, over the past decade BB have commissioned both C&J and Alfred Sargent to make Peal & Co shoes, but I've never heard of Church's making Peal & Co shoes.

Of course, I may be entirely incorrect!
 
Journeyman said:
fxh - I don't think so. Peal used to be its own brand many years back, although I think that it primarily made leathergoods such as suitcases and briefcases, rather than shoes. From memory, the business failed and BB bought the name and then started assigning the Peal & Co label to upper-tier leather goods and shoes offered by BB. As far as I'm aware, over the past decade BB have commissioned both C&J and Alfred Sargent to make Peal & Co shoes, but I've never heard of Church's making Peal & Co shoes.

Of course, I may be entirely incorrect!
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Yes all that is what I thought but there was something just made me think they were same (ish)
 
Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos

These sold on ebay yesterday for a bargain $912 AU. I have never bought shoos on ebay because finding the right fit is too risky, but l was tempted to have a gamble with these. I never bidded, but owning something stunning like these from Lattanzi has been a dream for many years. These heavily ltalian flavoured clear brogues would have been just the ticket. It really pains me that l don't own these.

Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos 1.webp Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos 2.webp
Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos 3.webp Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos 4.webp
 
The Shooman said:
Silvano Lattanzi for Kiton shoos

These sold on ebay yesterday for a bargain $912 AU. I have never bought shoos on ebay because finding the right fit is too risky, but l was tempted to have a gamble with these. I never bidded, but owning something stunning like these from Lattanzi has been a dream for many years. These heavily ltalian flavoured clear brogues would have been just the ticket. It really pains me that l don't own these.

View attachment 25791 View attachment 25792
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Fairly sedate for Eyetie shoes. Like the rounded, not overly pointy last
 
Here is when ANTONIO MECCARIELLO used to make the exact same shoe for Kiton.

KITON
Kiton shoos 4.webp

Kiton (2).webp


And here is one of ANTONIO MECCARIELLO's pairs under his own name.
ANTONIO MECCARIELLO - old kiton maker 1.webp ANTONIO MECCARIELLO - old kiton maker 2.webp

I still think two of the Japanese shoe makers who have worked at Cleverley are far better makers than any of them above, and up there with Delos if not slightly better. Why? Because they are very tidy with fine details such as stitching and attaching the upper to the welt where-as the others lack that perfection, but on a good day Delos can equal it and Gaziano & Girling occasionally gets close also.

Yokei Fukuda bespoke
Yohei Fukuda blue.webp
 
but but but BUT....if you want to know who the best shoemaker in the world is, it is supposed to be Pierre Corthay according to Delos. AND if you look at his creations you can see he has no equal IMO. Why? Because his fine stitching is perfect, his attaching the sole to the welt is perfect without any lumps or bumps (by far the best ever), his use of colour is off-the-charts, and his lasting seems perfect as well.

Here are perfect examples of perfection. Impossible to fault how exact everything is. Delos and some of the Japanese can get close on a good day (maybe 80% as good as Pierre), but Pierre is the indisputable king imo.
Pierre corthay 1.webp
Pierre corthay 2.webp

Pierre corthay 3.webp


A better picture of Pierre Corthay bespoke
Pierre corthay 4.webp

Pierre corthay 5.webp



You will NOT find anything more perfectly made on the internet!!!!! Not even this shoe by Dimitri Gomez compares to Pierre's masterpieces.

Dimitri Gomez bespoke
Dimitri Gomez seamless wholecut1.webp
 
shooey - you once posted on how to best take pics of shoes - I've never managed to get the colour right or even the look.
 
fxh said:
shooey - you once posted on how to best take pics of shoes - I've never managed to get the colour right or even the look.
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Yes, most post bad pics.

What about going all out and getting this shoo MTO in a stunning antiqued green patina as seen in these pics. Maybe it's time to make it happen and have a bit of fun. That would be such an incredible looking shoo! It would be totally the cat's whiskers mate!!! Maybe getting one in a heavily antiqued cherry burgundy-red would be a winner too. Mmmm, very hard to sleep at night when l think of things like this, sooo exciting to think about.
Gaziano & Girling Deco 2 eyelet.webp
Deco patina 3.webp
Deco patina 4.webp
Deco patina 5.webp
 
I think l am just going to have to forget about all other shoos and just live a dream and own bespoke shoos by this guy, Yokei Fukuda.



I would like a pair like this below, but in medium brown,OR since he makes such flashy colours l could even do a heavily antiqued red or green derby.




Very very exciting to think about.




 
Here's is the pair l would probably get. It looks similar to the `Willoughby' by big John Lobb, and it is one of the most stunning shoos l have ever worn and seen. It is a total showpiece in real life.

Here is Yohei Fukuda's version in bespoke:



I could get this in a heavily antiqued red or in a heavily antiqued green or just a heavily antiqued medium brown. Owning three in different colours would even be better.

The problem is that there are so many beautiful shoos that l want to own them all. Looking at Yohei's shoos gets me more excited than anything else, l get knots in my tummy and have sleepless nights dreaming of the possibilities. I actually get breathless thinking about it. It's really tormenting to see them knowing l will never OWN THEM ALL. I don't just want one or two, l want them all!!!

See...that's the thing, l gave up shoos because l got sick of the sleepless nights.

Look!



There are too many stunners to count. Here is his instagram that shows many mindblowing shoos.
https://www.instagram.com/yoheifukudashoemaker/?hl=en
 
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Yohei Fukuda bespoke v's John Lobb willoughby


The willoughby by big Johnny Lobb are mindblowingly stunning in real life (best rtw derby l have ever seen and indeed a masterpiece), especially when a dash of red tinge is polished into it. Just imagine how much better the Fukuda bespoke would be with the sharper last and tight close cut fiddleback waist.
 
Interesting in terms of formality. Usually its held that closed laced shoes are more formal than open laced. But clearly those black open laced/derbys are about as formal as you can get.
 
fxh said:
Interesting in terms of formality. Usually its held that closed laced shoes are more formal than open laced. But clearly those black open laced/derbys are about as formal as you can get.
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Nah, those derbies are a very smart casual look and nothing more,ie, they could never take the place of an oxford. I wear the two eyelet derby with certain casual pants where-as l would never wear an oxford with casual pants. But remember fxh, I have always worn dressy shoos with casual clothing, it is my signiture style.

Those derby's are a very cool sharp modern day look done with abundant taste.
 
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