The First Five Thread: Starting a Wardrobe From Scratch

[Chorn]

How does one rationalize wearing a sub 3 inch knit ties with wide euro-preferred lapels?

One doesn't and shouldn't (my knits are mostly 3in). Though for what it's worth, my eye has never objected to knits where they would to a regular tie (even before SF indoctrination). And you can always twist the knot for some extra width.

Leit, narrow before wide, though a wardrobe has space for both.

 

[colco]

Not going to lie. I had to look up the definition of fungible (interchangeable). At the discounted price and the variation in blue, I think it may be worth grabbing the Yount knit as well. For instance, I would hesitate to the wear the Yount to formal events or interviews, whereas my old Chipp grenadines were my go-to for my interview trail last F/W. Also, due to circumstance, I have ended up with an olive knit and grenadine as well. I see them as 2 very different ties.

I'll sleep on it.

Interesting, I have eliminated all redundant solid ties. So only one navy, brown, green, etc. In every instance I have favored keeping a knit over a grenadine. I am striving for minimilism though.

 

[fxh]

Agreed, though for what you wear, that would have been a better option. A bit different from mine, though. And at 55, it wouldn't be the worst purchase in the world.

And though a number of people disagree with me, I don't think that a grenadine in navy, which strikes me as fairly formal, and a knit in a similar color are fungible.

I agree. Grenadine, even grossa, which is what I have, is different. Grenadine is a much much more formal tie than a knit.

 

[colco]

One doesn't and shouldn't (my knits are mostly 3in). Though for what it's worth, my eye has never objected to knits where they would to a regular tie (even before SF indoctrination). And you can always twist the knot for some extra width.

Leit, narrow before wide, though a wardrobe has space for both.

I have found knits that are larger than 2.5 (perhaps a stretch to 2.75") to be unwieldy beasts that tie huge knots. I have a long torso and need to go near the end of any knit tie to get both an appropriately sized knot and length to meet the waist of my trousers (though rise plays into this).

I do not understand the appeal of pointy end knits, though this is separate to my reponse to what Claghorn wrote.

 

[Darkside]

Since everyone likes pics, here is one comparing some knits and grenadines.

 

[colco]

those are fairly refined knits to my eye. Not terrilby discernable from the Grossa weave. So, with the pointy ends more or less interchangeable. A crunchier knit with a square end and a Fina weave would more disparate.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Since everyone likes pics, here is one comparing some knits and grenadines.
View attachment 8863

What are we comparing here?

 

[colco]

There was a discussion a few days ago about whether grenadine and knit ties are interchangeable

 

[Grand Potentate]

There was a discussion a few days ago about whether grenadine and knit ties are interchangeable

I remember. But this is just a bunch of ties on a bed. Attractive as that is, I'm not sure how that helps flesh the argument out in one way or another.

 

[fxh]

My most informal tie. I think I've only worn it once.

 

[fxh]

I was going to post a few ties.
But I didn't want to get into trouble from Rambo for " just a bunch of ties on a bed."

 

[fxh]

Knit Tie.
NOT on bed.

Spoiler

 

[fxh]

More random ties including Tweed /Donegal Jacket

Spoiler

 

[fxh]

For Rambo - random Colourful Ties On Bed shot

Spoiler

 

[fxh]

A few of my knit Ties On Bed

Spoiler

 

[Grand Potentate]

For Rambo - random Colourful Ties On Bed shot

Spoiler

View attachment 8882

Yes Rambo loves burning ties. Look at all the ties we can burn in this picture.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Darkside how's your wardrobe project coming along?

 

[Darkside]

Darkside how's your wardrobe project coming along?

Pretty good actually. I think I have enough CM wear to get me through most situations, though I have developed an unhealthy proclivity for high quality neckties. I, unfortunately, don't get to wear full CM dress too often, and when I need to wear a tie for work, an odd jacket is inappropriate. My next OJ will probably be a tweed of some sort.

I was actually thinking, what would be your guy's F5 shoes?

These would be mine:
1. Black Calf oxford
2. Brown Calf or suede oxford
3. Brown pebblegrain or suede derby
4. Brown Chelsea
5. Brown suede Chukka

 

[Grand Potentate]

3. Brown pebblegrain or suede derby

needs a boot. you can toss this one in exchange.

 

[Arnathor]

i'm assuming you are talking about captoe balmorals as the first shoe, Darkside ? Where do whole cut fit in?

 

[Darkside]

i'm assuming you are talking about captoe balmorals as the first shoe, Darkside ? Where do whole cut fit in?

Sure a captoe can work, or a plaintoe. When did I insinuate wholecut?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_shoe

 

[Arnathor]

Sure a captoe can work, or a plaintoe. When did I insinuate wholecut?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_shoe

Do they fit in or are they too much an oddity to fit in?

 

[Grand Potentate]

Sure a captoe can work, or a plaintoe. When did I insinuate wholecut?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_shoe

He was asking if they're an acceptable substitute on the top 5.

 

[Thruth]

i'm assuming you are talking about captoe balmorals as the first shoe, Darkside ? Where do whole cut fit in?

Bowling alley

 

[QuandoDio]

Pretty good actually. I think I have enough CM wear to get me through most situations, though I have developed an unhealthy proclivity for high quality neckties. I, unfortunately, don't get to wear full CM dress too often, and when I need to wear a tie for work, an odd jacket is inappropriate. My next OJ will probably be a tweed of some sort.

I was actually thinking, what would be your guy's F5 shoes?

These would be mine:
1. Black Calf oxford
2. Brown Calf or suede oxford
3. Brown pebblegrain or suede derby
4. Brown Chelsea
5. Brown suede Chukka

You need a loafer in there.

 

[Arnathor]

I disagree, I'd put a pair of wingtip bluchers in there first.

 

[Grand Potentate]

You need a loafer in there.

Paging LKP . LKP , you're needed for reinforcement.

 

[Darkside]

Do they fit in or are they too much an oddity to fit in?

Sorry, I misunderstood your Canadian English.

I am not a fan of wholecuts at all. They always look like the footwear version of a person with alopecia who is missing their eyebrows to me. I'm sure they could be used as your black formal oxford if needed.

You need a loafer in there.

I disagree, I'd put a pair of wingtip bluchers in there first.

The casual shoe is where there is more leeway I think. Some people will wear a loafer with odd jacket and trousers, but some won't. Personally, I do think a suede loafer is a useful shoe, but maybe more for a CM casual context. Here are mine when they were new. Maybe not part of the starting 5, but probably a good bench player.

 

[Thruth]

Pretty good actually. I think I have enough CM wear to get me through most situations, though I have developed an unhealthy proclivity for high quality neckties. I, unfortunately, don't get to wear full CM dress too often, and when I need to wear a tie for work, an odd jacket is inappropriate. My next OJ will probably be a tweed of some sort.

I was actually thinking, what would be your guy's F5 shoes?

These would be mine:
1. Black Calf oxford
2. Brown Calf or suede oxford
3. Brown pebblegrain or suede derby
4. Brown Chelsea
5. Brown suede Chukka

An oxblood balmoral and/or blucher would be very useful but YMMV depending on your like of the burgundy tone

 

[Darkside]

An oxblood balmoral and/or blucher would be very useful but YMMV depending on your like of the burgundy tone

I know it is very #menswear, but I actually have a pair of burgundy doublemonks and I do find the color to be extremely versatile.

 

[Thruth]

I know it is very #menswear, but I actually have a pair of burgundy doublemonks and I do find the color to be extremely versatile.

Not #menswear Youngblood. Oxblood-coloured shoes pre-date iGents. Been around a good long while but became quite popular post WWII. And burgundy ain't oxblood.

 

[seamless]

Not #menswear Youngblood. Oxblood-coloured shoes pre-date iGents. Been around a good long while but became quite popular post WWII. And burgundy ain't oxblood.

My first pair of Allen Edmonds. Almost 10 years old now. I'm a big fan of burgundy/oxblood shoes.

 

[Darkside]

Not #menswear Youngblood. Oxblood-coloured shoes pre-date iGents. Been around a good long while but became quite popular post WWII. And burgundy ain't oxblood.

I was referring to the #Dubmonkz style as iGent, and not the colour.

My first pair of Allen Edmonds. Almost 10 years old now. I'm a big fan of burgundy/oxblood shoes.

View attachment 12375

Impressive!

 

[WeakMonday]

Im thinking of getting my first bespoke overcoat.. Camelhair or grey herringbone?

 

[fxh]

grey herringbone

 

[LKP]

Im thinking of getting my first bespoke overcoat.. Camelhair or grey herringbone?

of course camelhair
or maybe dark blue cashmere

even ConchitaWurst looked great in my camel coat
and FriendCustomer looks mega sexy in his

 

[Darkside]

Im thinking of getting my first bespoke overcoat.. Camelhair or grey herringbone?

I am in the same dilemma. I may get a MTM overcoat made from Kent Wang and these are the two options I narrowed it down to. I feel like grey herringbone will attract less attention. Camelhair is "classic" but I rarely see people wearing that color in the wild.

 

[LKP]

of course camelhair
or maybe dark blue cashmere

even ConchitaWurst looked great in my camel coat
and FriendCustomer looks mega sexy in his

I am in the same dilemma. I may get a MTM overcoat made from Kent Wang and these are the two options I narrowed it down to. I feel like grey herringbone will attract less attention. Camelhair is "classic" but I rarely see people wearing that color in the wild.

There is no dilemma

Camelhair is so much better than grey herringbone

 

[Darkside]

There is no dilemma

Camelhair is so much better than grey herringbone

Between Grade A fabrics, would you go for 007 or 011?

 

[Thruth]

I am in the same dilemma. I may get a MTM overcoat made from Kent Wang and these are the two options I narrowed it down to. I feel like grey herringbone will attract less attention. Camelhair is "classic" but I rarely see people wearing that color in the wild.

There is no dilemma

Camelhair is so much better than grey herringbone

I would agree that camelhair is the best choice of the two. But I believe LKP also said previously that navy would be a good first choice and I'd agree. Or charcoal.

Top backside

Still you cannot go wrong with camelhair