The First Five Thread: Starting a Wardrobe From Scratch

What do people mean by "streetwear" - seems very undefined. Pauly - is that what you wear when you sit in the gutter (curb in USA speak?) outside 7/11 for hours at night and smoke cigarettes?
 
Darkside said:
This is still a good thread for beginners, ...
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alternative choices in different colour.

If I could pick a minimal CM wardrobe after my experiences and knowledge now, it would probably include the following:

1 Navy worsted wool suit + charcoal
1 Navy blazer
1 Brown Blazer / donegal sportcoat
1 pair khaki cotton trousers
1 pair gray flannel trousers
1 light blue OCBD
1 light blue uni stripe OCBD
1 white OCBD + pink and lavender
1 white light blue spread collar shirt / light blue uni
1 white spread collar shirt / light blue kent collar
1 pair brown oxfords/derbies/Chelseas
1 pair black captoe oxfords / black plain toe derby
1 brown belt
1 black belt
1 white linen square

... and a couple of ties. / ascots, silk scarves, tea towels
 
Probably the most useful thread of all. I thought I might pitch in. Give a European outlook, as it were. Mine's the very bare minimum "capsule collection", as the iGents call it.

*When I say shirt, I don't mean button-down.

  • 1 navy plain worsted wool suit, 2-piece
  • 1 navy single-breasted blazer
  • 1 pair khaki cotton trousers
  • 1 pair gray flannel trousers
  • 1 light blue or white shirt w double cuffs
  • 1 light blue and white striped shirt w double cuffs
  • 1 tattersall or check shirt, button cuffs
  • 1 pair black cap toe oxfords
  • 1 pair brown suede chukkas
  • 1 white linen square
  • 1 pair of braces (you won't be using belts in my capsule collection).
  • 1 navy pea coat
  • 1 pair cufflinks
  • 1 striped tie, woven silk
  • 1 patterned tie, printed silk
  • 1 pair dark socks (not black)
  • 1 pair dark brown leather gloves
  • 1 wool scarf
  • cotton underwear of your choice (M&S of course)

I think that covers it. Let me know if I have forgotten anything.

Notes:
- No belts, so your suit trousers must include brace buttons. The flannel and cotton trousers should include side adjusters. If you wear them without a jacket, you don't want to use braces, as it looks affected. Otherwise, have belt loops fitted and wear them with a brown belt.
- I have included a coat. I think it's essential, because this is an all-season capsule collection. A pea coat is more versatile than an overcoat.
- The suede chukkas may be controversial, but I find them extremely useful. They can be dressed up or down. They can be worn with your grey flannel trousers, or the khakis. If you omit the jacket (in extremely hot climates, for instance), they look far better than calf leather shoes.
- I recommend dark brown leather gloves because they can be worn with both black or brown shoes and any shade of fabric for the suit.
- The tattersall or check shirt enables you to dress down the blazer, and can be worn with the sleeves rolled up when you shed your blazer in extreme weather.
- You will obviously own more than 1 pair of socks, but this is a survival kit.
- The navy suit with the striped shirt and striped tie screams hardworking office monkey (I assume you're one. If you're an executive you won't be bothering with my advice). With the plain shirt and the patterned tie, it becomes cocktail attire.
- The colour of your underwear is up to you. Bear in mind that it may have to be pressed into service as a makeshift sling, catapult, sail, inflatable raft, or a flag.
 
My first five would not include a suit at all. It would be a must if working in a formal environment, otherwise I would not include something that would be worn only on rare occasions.

That said, navy blazer, med -not light- grey flannels (which can be worn all year except summer if not very heavy), light blue shirt with button cuffs and non button down collar, brown versatile oxfords, and any solid tie that works with the navy blazer.
Everything has to fit of course.

Would make a boring ensemble but one that works.

Edit, I didn't read the OP, it's about first five odd jackets :ahahahaha:
 
No one really starts from scratch do they? I wouldn't get a suit unless I was in sitautions where they were needed often.

As above: blazer, flannels, blue shirt, tie and brogues.

Then you'll be ready for a shit, shave, a shower and shoe shine before boldy going out the door.
 
No one really starts from stratch. Most of us start from a collection of poor quality polyester suits, plastic shoes and rubbish accessories bought in extremis for job interviews and suchlike. We end up with a bunch of crap that costs about 20% of the entry-level good quality stuff, but which we'll never wear again.

If I had to start all over again, I'd forgo the cheap in extremis crap and plan ahead. The capital outlay is more expensive, but you're saving money in the long run.

I mean you can't sell polyester suits on ebay. No one will buy them.
 
TheUntermensch said:
No one really starts from stratch. Most of us start from a collection of poor quality polyester suits, plastic shoes and rubbish accessories bought in extremis for job interviews and suchlike. We end up with a bunch of crap that costs about 20% of the entry-level good quality stuff, but which we'll never wear again.

If I had to start all over again, I'd forgo the cheap in extremis crap and plan ahead. The capital outlay is more expensive, but you're saving money in the long run.

I mean you can't sell polyester suits on ebay. No one will buy them.
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I did that with shoes, as soon as I was earning, I ditched the Bally's and moved straight into the C&J's. Didn't that with other gear though. I was bit of a Jaeger man. And then there was that awful Versace suit and shirts I bought for my nephew's christening mid 1990s. The shirts were 250 quid each then, I beaming bright neon blue thing and purple. Very 80s. Perhaps the last dying gasp.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
I did that with shoes, as soon as I was earning, I ditched the Bally's and moved straight into the C&J's. Didn't that with other gear though. I was bit of a Jaeger man. And then there was that awful Versace suit and shirts I bought for my nephew's christening mid 1990s. The shirts were 250 quid each then, I beaming bright neon blue thing and purple. Very 80s. Perhaps the last dying gasp.
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250 quid. Christ almighty.

I found one of my old suits the other day. Polyester and God knows what else. It was covered in leprous white patches, like mould, only it wasn't. I think it must be some kind of chemical reaction from the plastics.

Now of course I only wear fine wools and linens because I'm sponsored by Scabal di Napoli bla bla bla....

There was a fad for waistcoats in the early 2000s. Remember that? So every dickhead (that includes myself) went out and bought one. I only ever wore it once.
 
I never owned 100% poly suits...
wool-poly yes, and I have to admit the cloth itself wasn't that bad for beater suits. it didn't look too cheap and pants lasted forever. too bad the cut was terrible as well.
 
TheUntermensch said:
Probably the most useful thread of all. I thought I might pitch in. Give a European outlook, as it were. Mine's the very bare minimum "capsule collection", as the iGents call it.


  • cotton underwear of your choice (M&S of course)
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I don’t think so. This may have applied when M&S stuff was 90% Made in Britain but those days have long gone.

These days their underwear will have product information stamped onto the garment and feature uncovered elastic. You might as well buy anywhere that suits. See Jeremy Paxman rant about M&S underwear
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/jan/21/paxman-raises-smalls-problem-with-ms
 
Kingstonian said:
I don’t think so. This may have applied when M&S stuff was 90% Made in Britain but those days have long gone.

These days their underwear will have product information stamped onto the garment and feature uncovered elastic. You might as well buy anywhere that suits. See Jeremy Paxman rant about M&S underwear
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/jan/21/paxman-raises-smalls-problem-with-ms
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How right you are about the uncovered elastic. But is there any alternative at that price point? At least M&S skiddies provide enough room for the old chap and his two sidekicks. Other manufacturers seem to cut their patterns on female manikins.
 
TheUntermensch said:
How right you are about the uncovered elastic. But is there any alternative at that price point? At least M&S skiddies provide enough room for the old chap and his two sidekicks. Other manufacturers seem to cut their patterns on female manikins.
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One would have hoped someone of Paxman's stature would dedicate the subject of his interviews to more lofty matters than the decline and fall of M&S grundies. Like he's too thick, stingy or lazy to shop elsewhere for a better product.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
One would have hoped someone of Paxman's stature would dedicate the subject of his interviews to more lofty matters than the decline and fall of M&S grundies. Like he's too thick, stingy or lazy to shop elsewhere for a better product.
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Paxman claimed it was a private conversation with the M&S CEO. He was a tiresome interviewer who got a reputation for asking searching questions just because he was rude rather than deferential.
 
Can we have a thread about underwear? It is the basis, the foundation as it were, upon which the sartorial edifice is erected, I mean built.

I have a few M&S boxers from around ten years ago which have held up pretty well. Nice and soft and roomt, with no exposed elasic (that's the killer). The cotton fabric seems to be thicker than the current incarnation.
 
omg ten year old boxers. they probably come off like cupcake's paper
 
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TheUntermensch said:
Can we have a thread about underwear? It is the basis, the foundation as it were, upon which the sartorial edifice is erected, I mean built.

I have a few M&S boxers from around ten years ago which have held up pretty well. Nice and soft and roomt, with no exposed elasic (that's the killer). The cotton fabric seems to be thicker than the current incarnation.
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Not really, I'm not interested in other people's need to describe the intricate details how they need more support around their crotches and bollock areas. There's specialist websites for this type of thing.
 
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