The knitwear thread

Got myself a really nice cardigan from ebay. Have been watching this for over a week, but the asking price was too high. They finally dropped it to something more reasonable and l pounced. I knew if l didn't buy it now l would regret it....some wise guy would have snagged it within the hour probably.

The rare Scott & Charters shawl cardigan in wool. My first one form this maker.
Shawl cardigan - Scott & Charters 2.jpgShawl cardigan - Scott & Charters 1.jpg

I love nothing better than a wonderful shawl cardigan. Having shawl cardigans in cashmere makes perfection, but sometimes l am forced to settle for wool.
 
Got myself a really nice cardigan from ebay. Have been watching this for over a week, but the asking price was too high. They finally dropped it to something more reasonable and l pounced. I knew if l didn't buy it now l would regret it....some wise guy would have snagged it within the hour probably.

The rare Scott & Charters shawl cardigan in wool. My first one form this maker.
View attachment 42917View attachment 42916

I love nothing better than a wonderful shawl cardigan. Having shawl cardigans in cashmere makes perfection, but sometimes l am forced to settle for wool.
Very nice, Shooey. Had a similar one years ago.My appetite has been whetted.
 
Very nice, Shooey. Had a similar one years ago.My appetite has been whetted.

It is the type of clothing that is special. It is rare and stylish so it is worth sinking good money into one, especially a thick made-in-Scotland piece that does the job in keeping one warm. There are so many cheap imitations out there, so don't fall for the trap of saving money in skimping. Treat yourself and get the best.

Scott & Charters
Scott & Charters 6 ply shawl cardigan.webp

A nice unique shawl cardigan for sale here. See the extra heavy ply (they call it gauge).

"Super thick but super soft to the touch our shawl collar rib stitch cardigan is a luxuriously thick 3N - the thickest needle gauge - knit using 1.2kg of 100% Merino Lambswool" 320 GBP
Shawl cardigan - extra thick ply - Cloth and Cut 1.webp

Shawl cardigan - extra thick ply - Cloth and Cut 2.webp

 
Proof that cedar does not stop moths.

This Lockie was stored with cedar wood, but the owner reported that moths still got to it.
Shawl cardigan - Lockie - moth holes 1.jpg

Moth holes:
Shawl cardigan - Lockie - moth holes 2.jpg

Freezing items doesn't work either because household freezers don't get low enough to kill the larvae.

Avoiding moth holes
The best way to avoid moths are tough zip lock cotton bags with lavender muslin bags inside. Or, shake your jumpers every month to dislodge any eggs.
 
It is the type of clothing that is special. It is rare and stylish so it is worth sinking good money into one, especially a thick made-in-Scotland piece that does the job in keeping one warm. There are so many cheap imitations out there, so don't fall for the trap of saving money in skimping. Treat yourself and get the best.

Scott & Charters
View attachment 42930

A nice unique shawl cardigan for sale here. See the extra heavy ply (they call it gauge).

"Super thick but super soft to the touch our shawl collar rib stitch cardigan is a luxuriously thick 3N - the thickest needle gauge - knit using 1.2kg of 100% Merino Lambswool" 320 GBP
View attachment 42931

View attachment 42932


C&C are fab!
 
Proof that cedar does not stop moths.

This Lockie was stored with cedar wood, but the owner reported that moths still got to it.
View attachment 42935

Moth holes:
View attachment 42936

Freezing items doesn't work either because household freezers don't get low enough to kill the larvae.

Avoiding moth holes
The best way to avoid moths are tough zip lock cotton bags with lavender muslin bags inside. Or, shake your jumpers every month to dislodge any eggs.
I store all my knitwear in plastic tubs. And certain Alan Paine jumpers come in their own zip up bags.I lost too many jumpers to moths, especially my camel jumpers.
 
I store all my knitwear in plastic tubs. And certain Alan Paine jumpers come in their own zip up bags.I lost too many jumpers to moths, especially my camel jumpers.
That's one of the reasons I gave up on the higher end jumper world. The moths here are relentless and they seem adept getting into any wardrobe and targetting jumpers with extreme precision. I don't have a problem when I've paid for a Uniqlo jumper and it gets ate, but a sweater €300+ and I'm going to be mightily pissed. None of my expensive jumpers have lasted more than a couple of seasons here. I'm afraid, it feels like wasted money.
 
Hello guys, long time lurker here, real happy as I just found my grail and just wanted to show it to you. A ~25/35 year NOS cashmere shawl collar cardigan from Caerlee Mills. Best of the best + 3... Miracles do happen. Regards
 

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Just look at the workmanship...
 

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Hello guys, long time lurker here, real happy as I just found my grail and just wanted to show it to you. A ~25/35 year NOS cashmere shawl collar cardigan from Caerlee Mills. Best of the best + 3... Miracles do happen. Regards

Yes,l have been eyeing that for about a week. How do you know it is Caerlee Mills? How many ply is it supposed to be, 6?

There is another Sulka there for $2,500, but the maker can't tell me what ply it is or other details l want to know. He has a cheek asking for so much money when he can't provide an answer to any questions. If you want to sell something for big bucks, the buyer needs to know some details.
 
Sulka was famous for luxury, securing the highest product available from the best manufacturers, print silk ties from Hermes, Cashmere from Ballantynes.
This cardigan is a 6ply monster, as has a length of 32inches, so about 6-7 inches longer -20% heavier- than your regular Lockie/Drakes, so perfect on my 6'3" frame.
 
The Sulka's at $2,500, are they overpriced? It is more than I paid for mine for sure, and a pretty sum indeed, but just to keep it in perspective, the last batch of Shawl Collar ballantynes that I know off, were in 2006/2007 under the Ballantynes heritage label and those sold for £1,300 and did came only in navy -maybe also in grey but I have not seen one.
I have some Kiton's shawl and mock collar cardigans from their millonaire cashmere and Attolini's/Malo zip cash cardigans. Those had a rrp above $2,500 and no w ere near as substantial as my Sulka shawl collar.
For reference, to me, the best cashmere shawl collar at the moment is the one from begg&co, -scott & charters- at close to £1,200.
NOS Sulka/Ballantyne's at $2,500 are they overpriced, I do not know. The one's you'd mention are 3 inches shorter than mine and in colours I do not fancy. Will I paid for them? I haven't so far. Sometimes, we are spoiled at trying to 'always' get the once in a life time deal for pre1980's NOS Ballantynes 2-4 ply cashmere for under $100 in the colour of our choice. Is it possible Yes, realistic No. If you have score one of those deals, you know the rush/happiness it gets you, so maybe you should keep that route, as for some people happines is in the hunt.
The last Sulka store close in 2002 NYC -Paris close in 1995-, Sulka used to secure the best of the best from the best. How many NOS pre2000 Ballantynes, cashmere shawl collar are left out there, not many for sure. By the way, we have not even touch the subject of vintage vs new cashmere.
So the question you should be asking yourself is, how much its too much for Old World Luxury.
Happy hunting!

ps.- You already own a red Ballantynes shawl collar, if you secure that for a good deal, maybe you'll get diminishing returns on the Sulka.
 
The Sulka's at $2,500, are they overpriced? It is more than I paid for mine for sure, and a pretty sum indeed, but just to keep it in perspective, the last batch of Shawl Collar ballantynes that I know off, were in 2006/2007 under the Ballantynes heritage label and those sold for £1,300 and did came only in navy -maybe also in grey but I have not seen one.
I have some Kiton's shawl and mock collar cardigans from their millonaire cashmere and Attolini's/Malo zip cash cardigans. Those had a rrp above $2,500 and no w ere near as substantial as my Sulka shawl collar.
For reference, to me, the best cashmere shawl collar at the moment is the one from begg&co, -scott & charters- at close to £1,200.
NOS Sulka/Ballantyne's at $2,500 are they overpriced, I do not know. The one's you'd mention are 3 inches shorter than mine and in colours I do not fancy. Will I paid for them? I haven't so far. Sometimes, we are spoiled at trying to 'always' get the once in a life time deal for pre1980's NOS Ballantynes 2-4 ply cashmere for under $100 in the colour of our choice. Is it possible Yes, realistic No. If you have score one of those deals, you know the rush/happiness it gets you, so maybe you should keep that route, as for some people happines is in the hunt.
The last Sulka store close in 2002 NYC -Paris close in 1995-, Sulka used to secure the best of the best from the best. How many NOS pre2000 Ballantynes, cashmere shawl collar are left out there, not many for sure. By the way, we have not even touch the subject of vintage vs new cashmere.
So the question you should be asking yourself is, how much its too much for Old World Luxury.
Happy hunting!

ps.- You already own a red Ballantynes shawl collar, if you secure that for a good deal, maybe you'll get diminishing returns on the Sulka.

Good post, and your thoughts are the way l think about this too. Two issues here that are important to me:

1). there will not be this type of quality of cashmere shawl cardigan available anymore. Something tells me l may regret not having a chance to own this.
2). Purchasing one of these would bring diminishing returns. Something important to me is a very heavy cashmere cardigan. While my 6 ply Ballantyne shawl is nice and beefy and very luxurious, l would like something even heavier. The problem is...those 12 ply shawl cardigan from Scott and Charters and O'connell's won't be made as well as that Sulka, and this also bothers me because quality is important. Do I pay $3,400 ASD (extra with poor exchange rate) for a great and extremely rare 6 ply cardigan? l am not sure l want to do that. I think l would prefer to pay extra and get two 12 ply cardigans from O'Connell's. Sometimes we can't have everything, and maybe l should just appreciate the Ballantyne that l have and get a 12 ply.

It is interesting how Ballantyne's heaviest offering was the 6 ply, yet the Caerlee Mills factory was obviously making shawl cardigans up to 12 ply. I recall someone at Fedora Lounge buying six cashmere shawl cardigans from Sulka in 12 ply on sale at their closing down sale.

My recent Scott & Charters wool shawl cardigan is definitely a nice piece l enjoy very much, but it is not luxury because it is not cashmere and not as well made as my Ballantyne.

I feel there are probably some really good cashmere shawl cardigans being made from Scotland, and those would be made by John Laing. Rare. The ones by O'Connell's (Lockie) and Scott & Charters are well priced, but some shawl cardigans are very expensive and might be made by John Laing. It costs big bucks to get the good stuff, and it is hard to get these days. Imo a proper shawl cardigan should be beefy and in cashmere; it costs the earth, but it is worth it.

Just my thoughts and ramblings.
 
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The world's most luxurious cardigan

Idea = speak to Australia's luxury retailer (Harrolds) about having Barrie in Scotland create a 12 ply cashmere shawl cardigan in extra thick ply and high gauge count made to hermes' standards. The ultimate thick beefy cardigan weighing 4.5 pounds. Have a very limited number made in a few sizes. Get Style Forum and AAAC involved in a special order process to help Harrolds sell the items. I have wanted to do this for ages. I was initially in the process of doing this, but the person l was dealing with passed away. Maybe a couple of top stores could take part in this to make this work.

This type of cardigan will be extremely expensive, but it will be something very substantial and a once in a lifetime purchase. It will be the ultimate in decadence, and something cherished for many years.
 
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Hello All,
I like the idea above of commissioning the ultimate shawl collar cardigan from Barrie... I would definitely be a customer!
A couple of days ago, I bought this unusual Ballantyne intarsia and a little earlier, this grey Sulka cardigan.
The Sulka cardigan has arrived, it is absolutely mint but unfortunately runs small for a 44. The quality and construction reminds me of the best Hermes Scotland cardigans
 

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One question: does anyone know where the quality of McGeorge's current production stand?
If I am not mistaken they are producing in Scotland...
Thanks for any insights
 
Hello All,
I like the idea above of commissioning the ultimate shawl collar cardigan from Barrie... I would definitely be a customer!
A couple of days ago, I bought this unusual Ballantyne intarsia and a little earlier, this grey Sulka cardigan.
The Sulka cardigan has arrived, it is absolutely mint but unfortunately runs small for a 44. The quality and construction reminds me of the best Hermes Scotland cardigans

I saw this Intarsia, and my eyes lit up instantly, and I would have bought it if it was in my size. It got sold very quickly, so l knew whoever bought it was a Ballantyne connoisseur, and l immediately thought of YOU. It is a work of art and beautiful. You are so lucky, you now have a nice collection of Ballantyne intarsia.

The McGeorge stuff is now made in Scotland. Don't know anymore than that.

Congratulations on the Sulka, i've been thinking of buying some of vintage Sulka too.
 
Recently l checked online and my eyes opened up big and wide because l found some of the rarest gems on the internet, the Ballantyne intarsias in cashmere. If they had fit me l would have bought them both in a flash. I can search for years and are lucky to find a handful like these:


The extremely rare made-in-Scotland Ballantyne Intarsia in cashmere.
This is said to be a 4 ply, and weighs 15 oz instead of the usual 2 ply which weighs about 7 oz. 4 ply cashmere intarsias by Ballantyne are extremely rare

Ballantyne intarsia - baseball design 1.jpgBallantyne intarsia - baseball design 4.jpg

I think this was made in the 1990's to early 2,000's,l cannot be any more specific than that.
Ballantyne intarsia - baseball design 3.jpg


I also wanted to buy this little gem. I bet Grand Potentate Grand Potentate loves this one. ;) It is said to be a 4 ply and weighs 14 oz. Extremely rare to find a 4 ply intarsia from Ballantyne in cashmere.
Ballantyne 4 ply intarsia - dogs design 3.jpgBallantyne 4 ply intarsia - dogs design 1.jpg

Once again, likely made between 1990's and early 2,000's.
Ballantyne 4 ply intarsia - dogs design 2.jpg
 
I bet Grand Potentate Grand Potentate loves this one. ;) It is said to be a 4 ply and weighs 14 oz. Extremely rare to find a 4 ply intarsia from Ballantyne in cashmere.
YES HE DOES!

The extremely rare made-in-Scotland Ballantyne Intarsia in cashmere.
This is said to be a 4 ply, and weighs 15 oz instead of the usual 2 ply which weighs about 7 oz. 4 ply cashmere intarsias by Ballantyne are extremely rare

Ballantyne intarsia - baseball design 1.jpgBallantyne intarsia - baseball design 4.jpg
ALSO EXTREMELY FOND OF THIS ONE. a little less so of the color, but hey, you can't have it all.
 
who doesn't love dogs? and that's an american baseball sweater shooey. big baseball fan. BIG. teal, not so much.

plus, its better than a looking like a cocksucker who golfs:
But l have a Welsh intarsia of a man who golfs. Look! :problemo:
Corgi cashmere intarsia 1.jpg

It reminds me that l need to pull it out for winter. A nice thick cashmere.
 
yes but this looks like Bobby from King of the Hill, so its acceptable.

Yep, the fellow in the intarsia has zero sex appeal. Women wouldn't be attracted to him in real life.

Got a real cashmere treat on tonight, and enjoying it thoroughly.
- Loro Piana baby cashmere turtleneck (navy)
- Ballantyne 6 ply shawl cardigan (burgundy)

also have on great wool socks by Gallo, marvelous shoes, and nice thick winter cords. So comfy. Love the cold weather, l can indulge in all my favourite clothes.
 
1970's Lyle & Scott cashmere argyle

Bought this today. It is really good when washed out photos are taken with a camera flash because it makes the jumpers look awful and little interest is generated. It means low prices can be had. It is so nice to get a top cashmere jumper for low prices again like in the old days of jumper buying (3 years ago).

When l receive this the colours will be vibrant and not washed out like in these photos.

Lyle & Scott argyle 1.webpLyle & Scott argyle 2.webp
 
1980's Ballantyne cashmere argyle
I just bought this baby today.
A 1980's Brand new in bag, Ballantyne 4 ply argyle V neck jumper. Just as The Shooman likes, "a top cashmere jumper for low prices".
So, a rare find indeed, and quite happy about it!
 

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^^
Looks like my size too. Lucky l never saw it. ;) It's 4 ply too, wow!!! Congratulations, you scored a NOS 1980's, the best imo because it is the newest made to the original quality during the golden age of cashmere.
 
J&D McGeorge 12 Ply Cardigan
Another rare find and a 1980s Classic! A Chunky 2 pounds 4.3 ounces of blissful cashmere. This is my first trully 2nd hand piece, and I'm not sure If I just swallow the red pill!
As a 2 tone, -red accents- would you guys recommend dry cleaning or it is ok to hand wash?
 

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The world's most luxurious cardigan

Idea = speak to Australia's luxury retailer (Harrolds) about having Barrie in Scotland create a 12 xply cashmere shawl cardigan in extra thick ply and high gauge count made to hermes' standards. The ultimate thick beefy cardigan weighing 4.5 pounds. Have a very limited number made in a few sizes. Get Style Forum and AAAC involved in a special order process to help Harrolds sell the items. I have wanted to do this for ages. I was initially in the process of doing this, but the person l was dealing with passed away. Maybe a couple of top stores could take part in this to make this work.

This type of cardigan will be extremely expensive, but it will be something very substantial and a once in a lifetime purchase. It will be the ultimate in decadence, and something cherished for many years.
This is a great Idea and I would be happy commissioning a Cardigan for myself.
Wll be expensive, but not much more expensive than some of the top Italian/French offerings available today, and will be so much better quality.
I would recommend trying to contact Simon Crompton, as he is English, familiar with quality clothes and the commissioning process. Lately, he has commissioned some pieces and have sold them at his blog/store. It'll be a good idea for him to post on his blog
Also a good idea, to let him know that there's a market and already some interested buyers. Cromptom, been English and in the trade, would know if Barrie, Corgy, Lockie, Begg &Co (Scott & Charters) are the way to go. We just need to come up with ideas for the most Luxurious Cardigan. Should it be a Shawl or Mock Collar. 12 or 16 ply. Long -mid butt- or a more cropped style. Tight or relaxed fit. Colour?
Quality is paramount, as for example, Oconnels has a 12 ply, but Imho, not the best craftmanship.
I'm happy going with the best of the best cashmere yarn available and much prefer if possible, a (vintage 1920's style) mid butt/relaxed style, than the modern cropped/tight style. No preference for Shawl or Mock. At least 12 ply but love it if 16. Colour, as long as not pink, I'm ok with most.
So let the process begin...
 
J&D McGeorge 12 Ply Cardigan
Another rare find and a 1980s Classic! A Chunky 2 pounds 4.3 ounces of blissful cashmere. This is my first trully 2nd hand piece, and I'm not sure If I just swallow the red pill!
As a 2 tone, -red accents- would you guys recommend dry cleaning or it is ok to hand wash?

It is with a heavy heart that l see you bought this wonderful piece. I have been eyeing it off for many months and have spoken to the seller about it at length. It is the ultimate grail piece, ie, a heavy dense vintage cashmere item. Sadly it was slightly too small for me. I thought about stretching it professionally to an extra size, but the wait list would have been about 12 months. I really love that 12 ply cardigan. Wish l owned it.
 
:o:o Sorry mate!
It is also, on the edge side for me, but then again, I figure the odds of getting another cashmere cardigan by J&D McGeorge in excellent condition, close to 3 pounds, and I just had to have it. Worst case scenario, I'll wear it open. J&D McGeorge close shop in the late '80s, so close to 25 years before Caerlee mills.
I do not understand why you passed on it, as you keep telling everybody, about how hard it is to get a heavy (+ 2 lbs) 12 ply cashmere, from a top producer, from the golden age. I guess, the simple answer, it is that this cardigan was not meant for you. I do have to thank you on passing on it. I do also have to thank you, for passing on the yellow Sulka, that baby is 3 lbs 6 ozs.
Would you dry cleaned the J&D Mc George, -been a 2 toned- or would you hand wash it.
Regarding the seller, what is your opinion on him, I see him as having a great eye and a very well curated offering.
Best regards
P.s- By the way, could you please pass along the contact information, of the person/company who can professionally strech vintage cashmere cardigans? Thank you.
 
:o:o Sorry mate!
It is also, on the edge side for me, but then again, I figure the odds of getting another cashmere cardigan by J&D McGeorge in excellent condition, close to 3 pounds, and I just had to have it. Worst case scenario, I'll wear it open. J&D McGeorge close shop in the late '80s, so close to 25 years before Caerlee mills. I do not understand why you passed on it, as you keep telling everybody, about how hard it is to get a heavy (+ 2 lbs) 12 ply cashmere, from a top producer, from the golden age. I guess, the simple answer, it is that this cardigan was not meant for you.

I am not sure why l passed on it either. l made a mistake. I could have worn it unbuttoned too, but it is a compromise.

I do have to thank you on passing on it. I do also have to thank you, for passing on the yellow Sulka, that baby is 3 lbs 6 ozs.

3 pounds 6 oz???? :o Now that is starting to make me think...maybe it is a 12 ply. 😍

Would you dry cleaned the J&D Mc George, -been a 2 toned- or would you hand wash it.

Definitely hand wash it.
Regarding the seller, what is your opinion on him, I see him as having a great eye and a very well curated offering.

He is a nice bloke and a good seller who sources great knitwear. He has kept a few grail pieces for himself too. I only thing l don't like is that his prices have gone up a lot over the past year (he is a bit on the expensive side) and he sometimes highly fluctuates his prices. That cardigan you bought fluctuated between $320.00 - $550.00 over a few weeks.

Best regards
P.s- By the way, could you please pass along the contact information, of the person/company who can professionally strech vintage cashmere cardigans? Thank you.

Sandy is the sole proprietor. A nice lady too. She might be able to block the piece up a size, but then again it is a cardigan so it might be more difficult to do that. .
 
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E Elote Let me just say this....

if you like knitwear as much as l do, then l am happy you bought it. Given that the cardigan was unusual and not bought for a long time, and given you bought it because you realised it was a rare grail piece, it tells me that it went to the right person.

To me, knitwear is like shoes, if you buy the best ones it can be really rewarding. I really cherish my knitwear. It is difficult to get good stuff now, especially the high quality beefy knitwear. Even the 12 ply Brunello Cucinelli knitwear looks thin, and it probably pills quite a bit too (most of mine pills). Those 12 ply O'Connells look nice, but quality is a concern too; too much skimping going on.

The world's most luxurious cashmere cardigan
To me there is a small gap in the marketplace for a truly luxurious hefty cashmere cardigan of high gauge and ply count, but will people pay $5,000 - $6,000 + for a properly made winter cashmere cardigan?? How many need to be ordered, and how many of each size etc? So many things to think about. AND, what about the quality of the cashmere and the processing methods....even Ballantyne 2007 6 ply cardigans have some pilling; this is a sign of the times, it is no longer the 80's when mills had access to great cashmere that hardly pilled. Loro Piana seems to have the best cashmere IMO, and they grow their own source and have great quality control; none of my LP stuff pills at all, but some of the Hermes made-in-Scotland stuff does pill a bit.

Loro Piana has the great cashmere, but Hermes makes cashmere jumpers to the old standards of the vintage knitwear, SO....can l combine the two?? Can l source the best cashmere from LP at a premium price and have it spun in Scotland in a heavy ply by Todd & Duncan, and then have Barrie make the cardigan??? The market would be very small, only the biggest knitwear junkies would pay the $$$$ for such luxury. Marketing this project would be important too, and it is do-able because it is a market niche', and the customers could be found imo.
 
The Scott & Charters v's the 1960's Mc George shawl cardigan v's Ballantyne cardigan

The Scott and Charters is a nice wool cardigan, but it is just a basic well made cardigan, and it is certainly not luxury like a Ballantyne cashmere 6 ply. To me, it mainly comes down to the knitting. The SC doesn't feel as substantial (1) as the Mc George or my Ballantyne, and it only has plastic buttons where-as my other two have leather buttons. The Mc George is solidly made; and the Ballantyne is also solidly made and quite heavy, and it is obvious a lot of expense went into making it. I also have a 6 ply N Peal cashmere cardigan that might be even heavier than my Ballantyne, but it is not as luxurious despite it not pilling at all. It is difficult for me to pin point all the fine details of well made knitwear, but one knows luxury when he experiences it. To me, luxury 6 ply knitwear needs to be solid, made to last decades, minimal pilling, needs to feel incredible, and made from the best materials; it needs to be cashmere.

Footnote
(1) Substantial = not just solid, but feels amazing and luxurious. Difficult to put into words, but a knitwear connoisseur know it when he experiences it.
 
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