The knitwear thread

I have been looking at the different ply’s of shawl collar jackets and what I think can be made to be worn.

Ballantyne Royce or McGeorge Westway are both 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) trims plus 2/16’s x1 (168tex)

McGeorge 12007 was in pure new wool but in cashmere would be double above 2/16’s x 4 (672tex) trims plus 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) this stitch for body is the same weight as I knitted for the Velvethall Alpacas bobble hats in attached picture.

I did a sample swatch plied up to see max for 3n hand flat machine 6 ends of merino (210tex) roughly 1296 Tex but had to lock down tension cams due to the size of stitch. I think in cashmere it would be to heavy a big garment that it would not be wearable and Matt or end up felted and lost the structure of the stitch and body shape.

So attached pictures of the Royce/Westway, 12007 and sample swatch for comparison. Plus the Velvethall Bobble hat.

All would need to be knitted in sample swatches then sample size if it was to be taken forward in 12007 cashmere weight.

Trust this helps ?

Alpaca link

Store — Velvethall Alpacas

Garments from Velvet Hall Alpacas
velvethall-alpacas.co.uk velvethall-alpacas.co.uk
 

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The Shooman said:
I like all the styles, but by far my favourites are:

- thick shawl collar cardigan in cashmere (1st favourite)
- turtleneck in cashmere (2nd favourite)
- thick cable knits in cashmere (3rd favourite)
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Sorry, thick fingers for the previous feedback lol
 
The Master Knitter said:
I have been looking at the different ply’s of shawl collar jackets and what I think can be made to be worn.

Ballantyne Royce or McGeorge Westway are both 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) trims plus 2/16’s x1 (168tex)

McGeorge 12007 was in pure new wool but in cashmere would be double above 2/16’s x 4 (672tex) trims plus 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) this stitch for body is the same weight as I knitted for the Velvethall Alpacas bobble hats in attached picture.

I did a sample swatch plied up to see max for 3n hand flat machine 6 ends of merino (210tex) roughly 1296 Tex but had to lock down tension cams due to the size of stitch. I think in cashmere it would be to heavy a big garment that it would not be wearable and Matt or end up felted and lost the structure of the stitch and body shape.

So attached pictures of the Royce/Westway, 12007 and sample swatch for comparison. Plus the Velvethall Bobble hat.

All would need to be knitted in sample swatches then sample size if it was to be taken forward in 12007 cashmere weight.

Trust this helps ?

Alpaca link

Store — Velvethall Alpacas

Garments from Velvet Hall Alpacas
velvethall-alpacas.co.uk velvethall-alpacas.co.uk
Click to expand...
Hello David,
Maybe we are aproaching this the wrong way. I mean, 35 years ago Ballantyne -regarded here as the best- came to you as a Master Knitter, with a commission from Harrods -no ordinary client- to deliver a cashmere shawl collar cardigan, and you came with the Royce.
Lets say that in 2022, Ballantyne were not defunct, and came to you again, with a proposal to deliver the most decadent, luxurious cashmere shawl collar cardigan. With your 50+ years of experience what would you make? Ply wise, cashmere yarn etc.
Kind regards
 
The Master Knitter said:
I have been looking at the different ply’s of shawl collar jackets and what I think can be made to be worn.

Ballantyne Royce or McGeorge Westway are both 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) trims plus 2/16’s x1 (168tex)

McGeorge 12007 was in pure new wool but in cashmere would be double above 2/16’s x 4 (672tex) trims plus 2/16’s x 2 (336tex) this stitch for body is the same weight as I knitted for the Velvethall Alpacas bobble hats in attached picture.
Click to expand...

This is interesting. It seems like making the Mcgeorge in cashmere could be the way to go, it seems like this could be the weight limit before structure and beauty are lost. All my cashmere shawl cardigans are much heavier than wool, so I can see making the McGeorge in cashmere is a good idea.

The Master Knitter said:
I did a sample swatch plied up to see max for 3n hand flat machine 6 ends of merino (210tex) roughly 1296 Tex but had to lock down tension cams due to the size of stitch. I think in cashmere it would be to heavy a big garment that it would not be wearable and Matt or end up felted and lost the structure of the stitch and body shape.
Click to expand...

You are the expert here so l will wisely heed to your warnings. I am glad you mentioned this. Best to play it safe. The main thing is to have a beautiful cardigan while being heavy.

Questions

1). So, that McGeorge cardigan in cashmere will be about as heavy as it gets without negatively affecting structure and beauty....is this correct? Making something heavier in cashmere (6 ends instead of 4 ends) could end up in matting and bagging??

2). ....(deleted)

3). What about some cardigans being called 2/28’s x 6 (12 ply in laymen's terms) like this for example below. Are the body panels really less than 6 ends, so the cardigan below does not really have 12 ply (layman's terms) body panels?
https://oconnellsclothing.com/oconnells-12-ply-cashmere-cardigan-natural-ch01537-dkmeddye.html

4). How will the weight and stitch of the Mc George in cashmere compare to the cardigan above? Will it be heavier or less thick? I may ask dumb questions, but us laymen want to be clear on these things.

The Master Knitter said:
So attached pictures of the Royce/Westway, 12007 and sample swatch for comparison. Plus the Velvethall Bobble hat.

All would need to be knitted in sample swatches then sample size if it was to be taken forward in 12007 cashmere weight.

Trust this helps ?

Alpaca link

Store — Velvethall Alpacas

Garments from Velvet Hall Alpacas
velvethall-alpacas.co.uk velvethall-alpacas.co.uk
Click to expand...

That big stitch looks like a loser knit than the others. You talked about locking down the tension due to the size of the stitch. I think l can see what you mean, it doesn't seem ideal...it looks lose and seems like it could lose structure/shape if made in a cardigan.

I really like those first two samples.
 
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Elote said:
Hello David,
Maybe we are aproaching this the wrong way. I mean, 35 years ago Ballantyne -regarded here as the best- came to you as a Master Knitter, with a commission from Harrods -no ordinary client- to deliver a cashmere shawl collar cardigan, and you came with the Royce.
Lets say that in 2022, Ballantyne were not defunct, and came to you again, with a proposal to deliver the most decadent, luxurious cashmere shawl collar cardigan. With your 50+ years of experience what would you make? Ply wise, cashmere yarn etc.
Kind regards
Click to expand...

E Elote I think David has explained this really well, and we are definitely approaching this the right way. Why? Because we are exploring the limits of what can be done when making the ultimate cardigan, and David has told us what can be done and what likely can't be done. My initial dream of having an extremely heavy cardigan probably can't be done, and it might explain why shawl cardigans haven't been made in heavier weights than the usual 6 and 12 ply (common laymen terms)/.
 
My latest additions. Cordings made in Hawick Lambswool and two Lands End Supima cotton fine gauge jumpers.

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Panama Panama you have different tastes in knitwear to me, but l hope you enjoy them.

86 watchers on this Lockie 6 ply shawl cardigan. Sold for an expected amount, and a good deal.
image_2022-07-11_082812832.webp
 
A nice cashmere knit made by Malo. If it fit me l would want to buy it. Such a fabulous jumper.

I have a beautiful thick cableknit by Malo and it hasn't pilled at all.
Malo cableknit polo 1.webp
Malo cableknit polo 2.webp
 
I have a sweater similar to this Malo. Mine is a marled orange/ rust color in plain knit (no cable...).
It is very nice to wear. However the knitting lacks tension somewhat and the sweater has a tendency to stretch.
This is not always the case with Malo though, in my experience. Other thick sweaters have never stretched at all despite being handwashed numerous times.

Speaking of marled sweaters, I have received this Hermes a few days ago. It will be a few months before I get the chance to wear it though. It is very hot here these days. Tomorrow I will head to the mountain and work from there. At least the nights are always cool
 

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A few John Smedley in blue. These are from the last few months...

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More arrivals due this week.
 
I had lost count of my John Smedley Outlet orders. I appear to have 24 orders in my order history, but a few are missing as they were payed by Amazon pay. The outlet is a real bargain...

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Panama Panama wow, you've been buying so many jumpers lately. You must love them. They can be addictive. Thanks for posting the pics.

I was seriously considering buying a BIG daddy jumper, but l need to break my addiction, so l am going to pass on it. I am going to pass on many things for now on, including shoos.
 
Panama said:
I am going to call it a day until the next sales...
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You can do that, but l am a cultivator so l am not supposed to do that. A cultivator is supposed to give up all human attachments, meditate and reach a higher realm where he goes back to his original self (our original self is not attached to earthly things), and he eventually becomes one with the cosmos. The original nature has been recovered, and he can now make his journey back home when this lifetime has finished.
 
The Shooman said:
You can do that, but l am a cultivator so l am not supposed to do that. A cultivator is supposed to give up all human attachments, meditate and reach a higher realm where he goes back to his original self (our original self is not attached to earthly things), and he eventually becomes one with the cosmos. The original nature has been recovered, and he can now make his journey back home when this lifetime has finished.
Click to expand...
Well I have purchased 20 items, this allows me to wear something completely different every day at work each month. As I already probably another 50 other items of knitwear, I can wear something different for three months. That's all of winter or autumn...
 
Panama said:
Well I have purchased 20 items, this allows me to wear something completely different every day at work each month. As I already probably another 50 other items of knitwear, I can wear something different for three months. That's all of winter or autumn...
Click to expand...

You remind me of myself not so many years ago. I wanted a different high quality outfit for months on end, or a different shoo each day. You are kind of like the Queen...gotta have a different outfit each day so people don't think you are wearing the same clothes all the time. I understand the mindset.

funny time 1 = people will get a surprise. They will ask, Panama wears a different jumper each day for months on end, how many jumpers does that bloke own???

funny time 2 = I played mind games once with band mates. I wore a different shoo each time for about 2 years straight. I could tell they were thinking...."how many shoos does that guy own, he wears a different high quality shoo each time he comes to band". I got a great kick out of that.

These days l tone down my mind and think more along a minimist mindset. Sure, l have enough shoos, sox and jumpers to fill a shop, but my mindset is vastly different now, it has to be when one is a cultivator. I want to have a simple mindset free of sentimentality, so l try to buy much less, but I purchase high quality items that l can mix and match. I find trying to find a different outfit for each day too taxing, ie, it becomes a pursuit, and pursuits lead to complicated thinking, which leads to crowded minds, and this is no good when l meditate. I am supposed to reach tranquility (a mind free of human thoughts), but impossible when one always pursues earthly fancies. I really enjoy a mind free of crowded thinking, it is a great state to experience....one gets a level of happiness that isn't ties to stuff...it is a natural bliss independent of everything. See, normal happiness is dependent of stuff or experiences, but a more satisfying happiness is the opposite.



 
Looks like Berk is continuing their scam. Just found an old email from last month offering 30% discount “exclusively to selected customers” for the McQueen 4 ply cashmere sweater and the McQueen 8 ply cashmere cardigan. Amazing how they can keep this up over the years…
 
Has anyone ever tried one of the “Good Originals” from Merz B Schwanen?
 
güero said:
Has anyone ever tried one of the “Good Originals” from Merz B Schwanen?
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Which exact product line? The current knitwear range is made in Portugal. They are also very green, which could result in having recycled cotton, cashmere or wool in your purchased items.
 
Panama said:
Which exact product line? The current knitwear range is made in Portugal. They are also very green, which could result in having recycled cotton, cashmere or wool in your purchased items.
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The exact product line "Good Orginals", as I wrote above, which is made in Germany. So no experience?
 
güero said:
The exact product line "Good Orginals", as I wrote above, which is made in Germany. So no experience?
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There is no knitwear for Good Originals on the website. There's Good Originals underwear but I can't get it to fit over my head...
 
A rare opportunity came up to buy Hermes made-in-Scotland, so naturally l bought it. It is a welcome addition because it is a polo shirt, and l am sure the orange can pair well with cream trousers for spring.
Looks like this one is also a Hermes made by Barrie, and looks to be the typical nice spongy thick ply.

I collect Hermes' made-in-Scotland cashmere jumpers because they are rare. I probably won't get the teddy with it.


Hermes made in scotland orange cashmere polo 1.jpg
Hermes made in scotland orange cashmere polo 2.jpg

Hermes made in scotland orange cashmere polo 3.jpg
 
The Shooman said:
A rare opportunity came up to buy Hermes made-in-Scotland, so naturally l bought it. It is a welcome addition because it is a polo shirt, and l am sure the orange can pair well with cream trousers for spring.
Looks like this one is also a Hermes made by Barrie, and looks to be the typical nice spongy thick ply.

I collect Hermes' made-in-Scotland cashmere jumpers because they are rare. I probably won't get the teddy with it.


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I do like that burnt orange, not quite the Hermes orange, slightly more subdued.
 
Thruth said:
If you've never worn loop wheeled or for that matter tubular knits, you should. There are only two loop wheeling factories in the world and MbS is one of them.
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Great, that’s what piqued my interest and I was hoping for someone to tell me they are indeed good. Was originally looking for a zipped hoodie, because mine is now disintegrating beyond repair. Will probably order just a tshirt for starters.
 
The Shooman said:
A rare opportunity came up to buy Hermes made-in-Scotland, so naturally l bought it. It is a welcome addition because it is a polo shirt, and l am sure the orange can pair well with cream trousers for spring.
Looks like this one is also a Hermes made by Barrie, and looks to be the typical nice spongy thick ply.

I collect Hermes' made-in-Scotland cashmere jumpers because they are rare. I probably won't get the teddy with it.


View attachment 44299View attachment 44300
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This is a gorgeous sweater. In a staple Hermes color!
I considered bidding on it but was afraid it would be too big for me as I am closer to an L.
I am sure you will enjoy it a lot
 
A question to the group: I am travelling to Scotland in a week for a short holiday. I will pass by Hawick and then head North west to the highlands and will then spend a few days on an island.
Can any of you recommend any vintage store that might have interesting knitwear?
Or even factory stores...? I am planning to visit Johnston's although the quality is not the best...
Does anyone know whether Barrie has a factory store?

Thanks a lot
 
Swiss said:
A question to the group: I am travelling to Scotland in a week for a short holiday. I will pass by Hawick and then head North west to the highlands and will then spend a few days on an island.
Can any of you recommend any vintage store that might have interesting knitwear?
Or even factory stores...? I am planning to visit Johnston's although the quality is not the best...
Does anyone know whether Barrie has a factory store?

Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Barrie is unfortunately not open to the public...

 
Well my purchasing sabbatical didn't last very long, but they were giving away these cashmere slip overs...

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