The Master List of Forum Approved Clothes Makers, Shoe Makers, and Tailors

[Grand Potentate]

Let’s try to keep this thread focused on task fellas

 

[aristoi bcn]

F. Ololzer would be a good name.

 

[Scherensammler]

Let’s try to keep this thread focused on task fellas

Isn't there a thread for shilling Sarto's ties already?

 

[Jupiter]

F. Ololzer would be a good name.

Good Lord! Don't reveal his true name young boy or at least spell it correctly: F. Olololzer. Do you want to end your life in a camorrista garbage in the Scampia suburb?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Good Lord! Don't reveal his true name young boy or at least spell it correctly: F. Olololzer. Do you want to end your life in a camorrista garbage in the Scampia suburb?

That would be an honourable end for a moron like me.

 

[Jupiter]

That would be an honourable end for a moron like me.

One uro for you. Keep the money.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

'Round about midnight last night outside the Hague's very own F.G. van den Heuvel:

 

[The Shooman]

Just wanted to bookmark this, super luxury bed sheets that cost a fortune.
The Rise of 1000-Count Sheets
https://www.departures.com/lifestyle/home-front/rise-1000-count-sheets

Got my first real luxury bed sheets. The old fashioned thick crispy hotel version of sheets.
https://www.frette.com/bed/bed-sets.html
https://www.frette.com/hotel-classic-sheet-set-white.html

http://nymag.com/strategist/article/what-are-the-best-bed-sheets.html

These pillow cases are stunning. $700 retail for a pair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AERIN-Scro...fffc4724|iid:1&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607

 

[The Shooman]

This doesn't relate directly to clothes, but l would like to put it here because it relates to old world craftsmanship. I haven't had direct experience with these companies as yet, but they are handy sites people may be interested in.

Like with shoos and clothing, this stuff is right up my alley. Been a massive fan of this type of furniture since l was a kid.
https://www.chesterfieldsoflondon.c...re-collection?page=1&sort_by=price-descending


Something more affordable is this local company-

I am thinking of getting this locally for my computer chair at home:


Another beautiful piece is this:

https://www.chesterfieldfurniturefactory.com.au/chesterfield-sofas-chairs/page/3/

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

This doesn't relate directly to clothes, but l would like to put it here because it relates to old world craftsmanship. I haven't had direct experience with these companies as yet, but they are handy sites people may be interested in.

Like with shoos and clothing, this stuff is right up my alley. Been a massive fan of this type of furniture since l was a kid.
https://www.chesterfieldsoflondon.c...re-collection?page=1&sort_by=price-descending


Something more affordable is this local company-

I am thinking of getting this locally for my computer chair at home:


Another beautiful piece is this:

https://www.chesterfieldfurniturefactory.com.au/chesterfield-sofas-chairs/page/3/

I'm a Chesterfield fan myself, I have a Queen Anne in the music room and a rather large footstool that is currently home to a dozen Mosaic box sets. Last forever, cannot be beat. Shame the rest of my house is a modernist nightmare.

 

[Fatcat]

Dear Gentlemen,


As I mentioned to you in my introduction, I am here to seek advice from seasoned gentlemen in order to avoid many faux-pas in my quest for classic elegance.


I appreciate more and more why some individuals or outfits appeared in the most disagreeable post of the day. I understand some are just being tacky peacocks, some are tailors wannabe emerging from Napoli suburbs and producing uber-expensive crap, mostly known for their 20K insta-followers and finally there are just ridiculous outfits.


Tackyness aside and given that I favor Italian style over English, could you tell me which bespoke tailors/MTM/RTW and brands are a good choices in suits and jackets, pants, shirts, coat, shoes, ties.


Personally, here is my selection :


Suits :


Pal Zileri single

Pal Zileri double

Timothy Everest 3 pieces (half-canvassed)

Corneliani flannel double


Sport coat :


2x Caruso summer single

2x Caruso winter single

Caruso summer double

Overcoat :

Caruso double camel
Stile Latino double unlined


Pants :


Luxire in VBC flannel


Shirt:


Need your advice. Luxire?


Ties:


Drakes and Marinella


Shoes:


Crockett & Jones.


What do you think of my collection? Any alternatives ? Please note that I have never paid full price for those and that I do not care about the brand. The reason for choosing them was that those were at least 50% or 70% off and full canvas.


Regards,


Fatcat

 

[Great White Snark]

You can have all the name brand gear in the world but if it doesn’t fit well or you haven’t combined things thoughfully you’ll look worse than someone who wears Banana Republic and Express.

So yes, you’ve listed out some reputable clothing brands. Other than that we don’t know shit unless you want to post pictures for critique.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Fit is critical when it comes to dressing well.

If money is an issue (then bespoke is not an option) I'd try these brands thorough Yoox (they restock multiple sizes and designs every season):

- Caruso, Corneliani, Cantarelli for suits (unfortunately they don't stock enough neapolitan makers to be reliable source for it).
- Borrelli, Barba, Finamore for shirts.
- Cappelli for ties.

 

[Jupiter]

Fit is critical when it comes to dressing well.

If money is an issue (then bespoke is not an option) I'd try these brands thorough Yoox (they restock multiple sizes and designs every season):

- Caruso, Corneliani, Cantarelli for suits (unfortunately they don't stock enough neapolitan makers to be reliable source for it).
- Borrelli, Barba, Finamore for shirts.
- Cappelli for ties.

The RTW online quest is not only time-consuming but also, I think, a deadend (with the most disappointments), at least for suits, if the guy is looking after the right fit. Bespoke may be the longest and the most expensive option (it depends on the tailor) but it's the most rewarding way. Of course all depends on where you live and if you can have access to a decent tailor.

 

[Fatcat]

I am planning to post in the WIWT indeed.
Those are all RTW altered so they won’t be flawless in terms of fit. I will let you judge. Same for combination of color etc...

My question is more: this is what I have tell me if it is good for what it is as a cloth, not a cloth on me. We can talk about the fit and style later.

The main reason for my question is that I have read more critics than positive review about some bespoke tailor or maker. I am therefore wondering what is left?

From your experience on the subject, again tackyness aside ( e.g if Rubinacci makes good stuff even though he seems more interested by instagram) I am interested to know what is good.

 

[Fatcat]

I do get all my Caruso stuff from Yoox. I lived in Central London for the past 5 years. Finding a good alterations tailor was no issue. Again I will let you judge

 

[Jupiter]

I am planning to post in the WIWT indeed.
Those are all RTW altered so they won’t be flawless in terms of fit. I will let you judge. Same for combination of color etc...

My question is more: this is what I have tell me if it is good for what it is as a cloth, not a cloth on me. We can talk about the fit and style later.

The main reason for my question is that I have read more critics than positive review about some bespoke tailor or maker. I am therefore wondering what is left?

From your experience on the subject, again tackyness aside ( e.g if Rubinacci makes good stuff even though he seems more interested by instagram) I am interested to know what is good.

Some good bespoke known values which can make consensus:
- Corcos (top SF gent ref) +3k
- Paone +2k (does London TS)
- Vergallo +2k (does London TS)
- Tofani =2k (for new customers + #bi#homo#)
- Crimi = 1,6k
- Eduardo di Simone atelier (not a tailor himself) = 1,4k
- Master Oreo = True Mystery Price (TMP)

All very little operations (the cutter is the maker for the most parts) excepted di Simone (his work doesn't inspire me - same for Vergallo - but seems globally correct).

I won't shill for my tailor since it's a bit hit-or-miss with him.

 

[Jupiter]

I am planning to post in the WIWT indeed.
Those are all RTW altered so they won’t be flawless in terms of fit. I will let you judge. Same for combination of color etc...

My question is more: this is what I have tell me if it is good for what it is as a cloth, not a cloth on me. We can talk about the fit and style later.

The main reason for my question is that I have read more critics than positive review about some bespoke tailor or maker. I am therefore wondering what is left?

From your experience on the subject, again tackyness aside ( e.g if Rubinacci makes good stuff even though he seems more interested by instagram) I am interested to know what is good.

Pal Zileri and Caruso are good RTW makers. Never tried the other brands.

 

[Fatcat]

Some good bespoke known values which can make consensus:
- Corcos (top SF gent ref) +3k
- Paone +2k (does London TS)
- Vergallo +2k (does London TS)
- Tofani =2k (for new customers + #bi#homo#)
- Crimi = 1,6k
- Eduardo di Simone atelier (not a tailor himself) = 1,4k
- Master Oreo = True Mystery Price (TMP)

All very little operations (the cutter is the maker for the most parts) excepted di Simone (his work doesn't inspire me - same for Vergallo - but seems globally correct).

I won't shill for my tailor since it's a bit hit-or-miss with him.

Thanks for this list. Any shirt maker to recommend?

First experience with Simone Abbarchi was not good. 2 months to receive one shirt. Shirt was way too baggy still after 2 washes.

Went to tailor and sent the shirt back with pins. Shirt came back again 2 months after and it was too tight + horrendous darts going down to the end of shirt like a women shirt.

Also details dissapeard in the re-process. E.g « mouches » were gone.

Second experience was with Olga Milano. Shirt arrived in 3 weeks. Too tight at the chest, hips but collar way too large + awful fabric and finishing is far from standard boggi RTW shirts.

Since I had a very good experience with Luxire for a pant I am thinking of getting shirts made there. What do you think?

 

[ConchitaWurst]

awful fabric

did she pick the fabric for you??

 

[TheUntermensch]

Isn't Simone Abbarchi the God of Shirts in the iGent community? What's going on here?

And can we have some recommendations for UK-based tailors and shirtmakers?

 

[FriendCustomer]

Thanks for this list. Any shirt maker to recommend?

First experience with Simone Abbarchi was not good. 2 months to receive one shirt. Shirt was way too baggy still after 2 washes.

Went to tailor and sent the shirt back with pins. Shirt came back again 2 months after and it was too tight + horrendous darts going down to the end of shirt like a women shirt.

Also details dissapeard in the re-process. E.g « mouches » were gone.

Second experience was with Olga Milano. Shirt arrived in 3 weeks. Too tight at the chest, hips but collar way too large + awful fabric and finishing is far from standard boggi RTW shirts.

Since I had a very good experience with Luxire for a pant I am thinking of getting shirts made there. What do you think?

would love to see some photos of your luxire pants. Did you send them a favorite pair to copy? For the shirt will you send them a shirt to copy or just provide your measurements?

 

[Jupiter]

Thanks for this list. Any shirt maker to recommend?

First experience with Simone Abbarchi was not good. 2 months to receive one shirt. Shirt was way too baggy still after 2 washes.

Went to tailor and sent the shirt back with pins. Shirt came back again 2 months after and it was too tight + horrendous darts going down to the end of shirt like a women shirt.

Also details dissapeard in the re-process. E.g « mouches » were gone.

Second experience was with Olga Milano. Shirt arrived in 3 weeks. Too tight at the chest, hips but collar way too large + awful fabric and finishing is far from standard boggi RTW shirts.

Since I had a very good experience with Luxire for a pant I am thinking of getting shirts made there. What do you think?

Me think online MTM must be avoided at all costs.

 

[Jupiter]

Isn't Simone Abbarchi the God of Shirts in the iGent community? What's going on here?

And can we have some recommendations for UK-based tailors and shirtmakers?

Steed seems a good value on the british market. Saw some failed suits but very few. Sharp cut but a bit clumsy for me.

 

[Fatcat]

did she pick the fabric for you??

No I have chosen the basic white poplin but I thought that it would be better. It was online not at the atelier

 

[aristoi bcn]

Steed seems a good value on the british market. Saw some failed suits but very few. Sharp cut but a bit clumsy for me.

I prefer the things I've seen from S.Hitchcock, not a bad fit from him and he has tons of pictures in his IG, though the Steeds look more down to earth guys.

 

[TheUntermensch]

I prefer the things I've seen from S.Hitchcock, not a bad fit from him and he has tons of pictures in his IG, though the Steeds look more down to earth guys.

Steven Hitchcock is up there with the best, but you're paying Savile Row prices.

I swear by GD Golding myself. Cheaper than Savile Row, and just as good. And Mr Golding really does everything himself, so you're dealing directly with the boss every step of the way.

But there must be other hidden gems in the provincial towns. And Scotland?

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Dear Gentlemen,


As I mentioned to you in my introduction, I am here to seek advice from seasoned gentlemen in order to avoid many faux-pas in my quest for classic elegance.


I appreciate more and more why some individuals or outfits appeared in the most disagreeable post of the day. I understand some are just being tacky peacocks, some are tailors wannabe emerging from Napoli suburbs and producing uber-expensive crap, mostly known for their 20K insta-followers and finally there are just ridiculous outfits.


Tackyness aside and given that I favor Italian style over English, could you tell me which bespoke tailors/MTM/RTW and brands are a good choices in suits and jackets, pants, shirts, coat, shoes, ties.


Personally, here is my selection :


Suits :


Pal Zileri single

Pal Zileri double

Timothy Everest 3 pieces (half-canvassed)

Corneliani flannel double


Sport coat :


2x Caruso summer single

2x Caruso winter single

Caruso summer double

Overcoat :

Caruso double camel
Stile Latino double unlined


Pants :


Luxire in VBC flannel


Shirt:


Need your advice. Luxire?


Ties:


Drakes and Marinella


Shoes:


Crockett & Jones.


What do you think of my collection? Any alternatives ? Please note that I have never paid full price for those and that I do not care about the brand. The reason for choosing them was that those were at least 50% or 70% off and full canvas.


Regards,


Fatcat

Can't fault Drake's ties and Crockett & Jones.

I was full-on Pal Zileri RTW 14-15 years ago, like the others have said a dead-end. I have one POW suit left, not worn since an interview in 2007 and herringbone jacket which I still occasionally sport.

 

[The Shooman]

Haven't used this place yet, but it is a very highly regarded leather craft maker. It has made handbags for the Queen for decades and has the royal warrant. It also sells some mens things and does bespoke bags etc.

https://launer.com/#

 

[ConchitaWurst]

Haven't used this place yet, but it is a very highly regarded leather craft maker. It has made handbags for the Queen for decades and has the royal warrant. It also sells some mens things and does bespoke bags etc.

https://launer.com/#

what are you planning on getting them make for you The Shooman ?

 

[Fatcat]

would love to see some photos of your luxire pants. Did you send them a favorite pair to copy? For the shirt will you send them a shirt to copy or just provide your measurements?

I took the measurements on existing pant and I sent pictures and specs found on internet. It was quite good for a first order. I will post pictures shortly

 

[Jupiter]

I took the measurements on existing pant and I sent pictures and specs found on internet. It was quite good for a first order. I will post pictures shortly

What's the logic behind the "it's quite good for a first order"? My understanding is that, like all Luxire customers, you asked them to reproduce a RTW trouser and obtain a middling result, hoping to improve the process and obtain an perfect fit after 2 or 3 trials. At the end you'll have burned 300 pounds you could have invest into a bespoke pant. The only way to work with them correctly I think is to send them directly the pant that pleases you so they replicate it. Online MTM based on measurements will always give mediocre results.

 

[Jupiter]

I took the measurements on existing pant and I sent pictures and specs found on internet. It was quite good for a first order. I will post pictures shortly

And PLEASE NO GURKHA BELT!

 

[TheUntermensch]

What's the logic behind the "it's quite good for a first order"? My understanding is that, like all Luxire customers, you asked them to reproduce a RTW trouser and obtain a middling result, hoping to improve the process and obtain an perfect fit after 2 or 3 trials. At the end you'll have burned 300 pounds you could have invest into a bespoke pant. The only way to work with them correctly I think is to send them directly the pant that pleases you so they replicate it. Online MTM based on measurements will always give mediocre results.

I've had Luxire make me a couple of trousers. I took the measurements off my best bespoke pair, so the result is better than middling. They followed the measurements to the letter, and the quality of the workmanship is excellent. Of course a real bespoke tailor would tweak those measurements at the final fitting, watching you flex and strut and whatnot, and taking into account esoteric things like the thickness and elasticity of the fabric.

But at that price point, I think Luxire are not too shabby.

 

[Fatcat]

What's the logic behind the "it's quite good for a first order"? My understanding is that, like all Luxire customers, you asked them to reproduce a RTW trouser and obtain a middling result, hoping to improve the process and obtain an perfect fit after 2 or 3 trials. At the end you'll have burned 300 pounds you could have invest into a bespoke pant. The only way to work with them correctly I think is to send them directly the pant that pleases you so they replicate it. Online MTM based on measurements will always give mediocre results.

Agreed but I would have more pants to wear and they can always be re-altered if needed.
Again I sent measurements of existing garnements already altered by experienced tailor, and they have replicated what I have specified. I am slowly getting my wardrobe to evolve and I can’t imagine having bespoke trousers which cost more than the Caruso jacket I buy on sales.

 

[Fatcat]

And PLEASE NO GURKHA BELT!

Large waistband but no gurkha

 

[Jupiter]

Steven Hitchcock is up there with the best, but you're paying Savile Row prices.

I swear by GD Golding myself. Cheaper than Savile Row, and just as good. And Mr Golding really does everything himself, so you're dealing directly with the boss every step of the way.

But there must be other hidden gems in the provincial towns. And Scotland?

Scottish bespoke? Since no one answered you I must: G. Livingston of course where Scherensammler operates. Look at this gorgeous Tartan trousers!

 

[Scherensammler]

Scottish bespoke? Since no one answered you I must: G. Livingston of course where Scherensammler operates. Look at this gorgeous Tartan trousers!

View attachment 28629

Customer owns a furniture shop, so he picked upholstery cloth. The colours are nicer in real life.
We are pretty much the only real bespoke tailors in Scotland.

 

[MES]

Customer owns a furniture shop, so he picked upholstery cloth. The colours are nicer in real life.
We are pretty much the only real bespoke tailors in Scotland.

Interesting - quite a few tailors offer 'bespoke' services in Edinburgh, but they have always seemed like MTM from the descriptions. The ones I've been curious about were

Sergio Tosoratti (broken website now but it definitely used to offer bespoke... I've walked past a couple of times and the work in the window has never seemed very interesting )
Stewart Christie (1400 for a 2 piece, apparently)
Peter Johnston (looks trendy and expensive )

do you know anything about them?

 

[Scherensammler]

Stewart Christie (1400 for a 2 piece, apparently)

Apparently used to be good in the olden days, but must have lost good talent since then.
Limited first hand experience, one of their (unhappy) customers came to us wearing a Stewart Christie made outfit.
None of us was very impressed with the work.
He must be pleased with our work, he has re-ordered several times now.