The SF/AAAC/FNB trainwreck thread

fxh said:
Calling Scherensammler Scherensammler - any explanation of above??
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Is that about the sleeve check not matching?
Not a defect as it's done on purpose by the cutter. The sleeves will be recut to match the armhole/ checks after the fitting.
It's a sort of safety feature for the cutter. There is enough inlay at the sleeve hem to get back the length that is needed.
If the sleeve has the correct pitch the check is transferred to the sleeve and hopefully to the paper pattern as well.
 
thanks - Makes sense - it was what I thought but didn't want to come across a a suitscientist
 
fxh said:
thanks - Makes sense - it was what I thought but didn't want to come across a a suitscientist
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Like this one?

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Scherensammler said:
Is that about the sleeve check not matching?
Not a defect as it's done on purpose by the cutter. The sleeves will be recut to match the armhole/ checks after the fitting.
It's a sort of safety feature for the cutter. There is enough inlay at the sleeve hem to get back the length that is needed.
If the sleeve has the correct pitch the check is transferred to the sleeve and hopefully to the paper pattern as well.
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Lesson learned through expert demounting. At least I am not what GMD has called a "bespoke journalist"!
 
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Well it is not SF/AAAC/FNB but still a proper trainwreck in my book:
DL: With the growing numbers of online menswear labels, what makes your products stand out from other? and what are the trademarks of a Shibumi necktie?


BF: First of all, we make the designs ourselves, we don’t just buy fabrics.
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DL: What quality signs should a customer look for in a necktie and how to get value for money?


BF: A necktie should always be handmade and in my opinion, it should even has hand rolled edges instead of tipping, since it's more artisanal, traditional and beautiful.
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DL: Tell us about the creative process behind the make of your products?


BF: There is no real habit, it depends. Sometimes i find a beautiful flower shape on a building and then i want to use that as a tie pattern. Other times I might find a great color combination in a painting and then I think of a way to use that coloration in a pocket square or necktie.
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My personal highlights from this gem: http://www.thedebonairslounge.com/single-post/2016/08/09/When-Two-Arts-Meet---Shibumi-Berlin

Since when does picking fabrics from Adamley swatch books count as designing? Does it mean I am a designer because I picked a fabric from an LP book last time I had suit made and I told the tailor to make the lapel a little bit narrower than last time? I think this is a clear case of "si tacuisses..."

 
güero said:
Well it is not SF/AAAC/FNB but still a proper trainwreck in my book:




My personal highlights from this gem: http://www.thedebonairslounge.com/single-post/2016/08/09/When-Two-Arts-Meet---Shibumi-Berlin

Since when does picking fabrics from Adamley swatch books count as designing? Does it mean I am a designer because I picked a fabric from an LP book last time I had suit made and I told the tailor to make the lapel a little bit narrower than last time? I think this is a clear case of "si tacuisses..."
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Yes, but you please must refer to the tissue as Hadamley.
 
SF's new "Journal" is already being used to push affiliate merch on the unwashed masses. Recent one that went out has a whole article about the virtues of a raincoat sold by NMWA.
 
The Machine said:
SF's new "Journal" is already being used to push affiliate merch on the unwashed masses. Recent one that went out has a whole article about the virtues of a raincoat sold by NMWA.
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I saw the "Journal" being mentioned on SF recently and thought that in a year or two, SF will be like GQ, except a bit snobbier and with less "hip to the street" speech.
 
Actually, I spoke too soon - it's happening already.

I just looked at the SF front page and there's a link to an article entitled "5 Must Have Fall Sneakers That Aren't Tennis Shoes", with the tag-line "If you've fully embraced urban techwear, you'll love no.5!"
:omegarage:

http://journal.styleforum.net/5-must-have-fall-sneakers-that-arent-tennis-shoes/

Really? Really, SF? Just when did you decide that it would be good to become a combination of GQ and the awful style advertorial section from the newspaper?
 
Journeyman said:
Actually, I spoke too soon - it's happening already.

I just looked at the SF front page and there's a link to an article entitled "5 Must Have Fall Sneakers That Aren't Tennis Shoes", with the tag-line "If you've fully embraced urban techwear, you'll love no.5!"
:omegarage:

http://journal.styleforum.net/5-must-have-fall-sneakers-that-arent-tennis-shoes/

Really? Really, SF? Just when did you decide that it would be good to become a combination of GQ and the awful style advertorial section from the newspaper?
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Wasn't really unexpected after they changed platforms, no?
 
UrbanConsumption - Peter Zolotto - is now writing top top menswear journalism & advice for SF. He has coined a new Sarto-worthy term: the peepee napkin:

http://journal.styleforum.net/the-tie-and-how-to-tie-it/

....Speaking of today and recent trends: you never saw the back blade longer than the front. Never. EVER. That doesn’t mean it didn’t happen. In fact it did – all the time, due to our short stature as kids. But we tucked it in our pants, and even had a name for it: the “peepee napkin"...
 
Hey InstaHate InstaHate what kind of twisted sexual perversions must Claghorn have offered/accepted/survived to become a poster boy? I thought he was a straightedge type?
image.webp
 
SodoSEmite said:
Less than you it seems.

You got to reckon you all sodosemites got a deep charisma, the men you love to hate, as Erick Von Stroheim classic film.
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doesnt it feel weird talking about yourself in the third person all the time?

edit: no need to answer. guess it isnt so strange after all if youre weird and mixed up like you are

carry on
 
New affiliate vendor on SF looks to be a piss poor copy of Linjer and their business model. Complete with atrocious color choices mixed in and shoddy looking leather.

Some of the unwashed masses have already started to give them shit, but one gem managed to catch my eye.

'Finished', 'artisanal', 'bespoke'

These words smack of double speak. There is nothing bespoke about your product, and it is doubtful that a workshop setup for true bespoke work can suddenly switch to a production line turning out $300 bags.

So you've created doubt just based on the way you present your product. Not good for generating sales.

Honeyed words don't add value.

Be straightforward and let your product speak.

Take a look at NMWA and Epaulet. Both vendors are effusive about their product but never hide behind fancy words and sentences.
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Yes, you got that right. NMWA who peddles OTR suits as being made to "bespoke standards" should be held up as the perfect example of a company that wouldn't bullshit its customer base.


:ahahahaha:
 
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