The SF/AAAC/FNB trainwreck thread

He does, and I still remember all the compliments we got in Tuscany when we took Nick Wooster out for a walk in it.
 
Something odd going odd with SF - when I try to bring up the site, it appears for a few seconds and then I am re-directed to some sort of spam site.
 
http://journal.styleforum.net/what-to-expect-from-bespoke/

Top top post on bespoke by Urban Consumption. Illustrated with examples on how to properly commission a double-breasted carcoat & matching trousers suit

IMG_6018.webp
 
New affiliate, Gabor Halmos of Sartoriale

http://www.styleforum.net/t/530287/sartoriale-official-affiliate-vendor-thread

He started posting top top eyetie brands. Sarto delivers warm greetings

http://www.styleforum.net/t/530287/sartoriale-official-affiliate-vendor-thread#post_8603943

always liked to see the ebay pics of the Neapolitans from Gabor-Sartoriale. Could never believe those recent past years I would end studying and practising with most of them. Also to this forum by the same.

So I wanted to give thanks to this person by giving me that inspiration.

Then Gabor did the unthinkable, oh, no!

IMG_6039.webp


Apparently Sarto posted his feelings on Chiaia and was promptly deleted. Disgusting intrusive moderation

IMG_6038.webp


But do not fear, DW gets the full scoop as Sarto was smart enough to email my JUNK folder:

MY ANSWER HERE:

Dear, I admire you as I said on your welcome post, I have learnt a lot before I decided to move Naples to learn Alta Sartoria, but with all my respects to you, and the Neapolitan high tailoring industry, both the people on this picture have deeply dishonoured both Naples as city and the High Tailoring industry (this also said by the big names there), so my humble opinion would be for you to do not represent those and change by other people who really love this art that is not the business they believe it is, to alleguedly scam tourists or people with very low knowledge of the tailoring, as I am pretty sure you are not but the contrary. That is, just because that, I consider people as those two represented, that by any reason can represent the Neapolitan High Tailoring, but maybe, street gambling or other shady business that sadly also happens on Naples, but I insist, not on tailoring, not on delivering (or even just delivering as was seen on that thread) proper garments.

I am pretty sure you will agree and understand when you read the thread. I got also tons of histories about those two, but can´t say in public, of course any is good, again, sad for the tailoring industry. Also most of the garments I have seen are made industrially, as jackets with the collar attached industrially, just got a lot of handstitch to disguise. Note the poor sleeve fit in all the pics. Not wanting to ruin you, but the contrary, I am sure you only got garments believing were good and for real, with all the marketing they like to surround themselves, but the truth is exposed here:

That “jacket” was inspected on several High Tailoring schools on Naples, as well as places as K, A etc, also in clubs of gentleman. For basic education and respect to you, I can´t publish it. Just hoping there is not other honest customer who gets what this person got from them, reading just the lies from one of his internet pushers, was worse even than the garment itself. Lack of any basic human dignity as you that got tons of tons of best seller ebay feedback and any of the contrary, would see. I am sure this will be a surprise for you, but sadly, this is the truth:

More details here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265077/alert-scam-in-naples-tailoring-one-member-involved-as-scammer

Thank you very much.
 
http://www.styleforum.net/t/265077/...ailoring-one-member-involved-as-scammer/0_100
[quote name="Cravate_Noire" url="/t/265077/alert-scam-in-naples-tailoring-one-member-involved-as-scammer/0_100#post_4804638"]This is pretty good!

I wish I never met Spalla Camicia in real life though (yeah, he's back).
He is incredible, but I dont want to get into that.

Zuschneider, are you U. from Berlin/Minnesota? :)


In any case a little disclosure:
None of the photos show on him the jacket actually made for him being worn(!).
First it was perfect, but then he changed his oppinion to "two sizes too large".
After he realized that we are not going to go with him everyday to bars, restaurants etc. as we would be best friends while he was in Naples and also did not plan to do so in the future he started with the loose cannon mode (imagine you meet Spalla in real life for the very first time after you read him on the internet...my mistake, I see now).
The photos showing him wearing it, were taken after he brought it to his alterations tailor in Spain to get it slimmed (and whatever else he had done).
Actually I did never see a photo of the jacket on him as it is after it was delivered.
Obviously he only took out fabric at the back, causing a balance problem that results in the bizarre V shaped front and closed quarters, the stripe pattern looks accordingly bad due to that "modification".
The other photos show the unfinished and yet unpressed jacket in the workshop, these were taken for Spalla by en employee and send to him via mail.
This was made mtm and shipped to him, no fittings btw. [though we still will never see how it looked before his "tailor" put his hand on it] .


After I received dozens of emails from several accounts (once he realized I blocked one) from Spalla, all of them consisting the worst insults a la "I am going to gas you fucking homos, my family were Nazi refugees in Spain" I am not interested in any further communication.
I even had to disable the anonymous comment option on my blog...I had to move dozens of anonymous comments from "Adolf Hitler" and "Rudolf Hess", consisting of furious racist insults of the worst kind to the spam folder.
Some mails went straight to my lawyer, but unfortuantely it is not easy to get our hands on him as he is not based in Germany.

[/quote]
 
fxh said:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/265077/...ailoring-one-member-involved-as-scammer/0_100
[quote name="Cravate_Noire" url="/t/265077/alert-scam-in-naples-tailoring-one-member-involved-as-scammer/0_100#post_4804638"]This is pretty good!

I wish I never met Spalla Camicia in real life though (yeah, he's back).
He is incredible, but I dont want to get into that.

Zuschneider, are you U. from Berlin/Minnesota? :)


In any case a little disclosure:
None of the photos show on him the jacket actually made for him being worn(!).
First it was perfect, but then he changed his oppinion to "two sizes too large".
After he realized that we are not going to go with him everyday to bars, restaurants etc. as we would be best friends while he was in Naples and also did not plan to do so in the future he started with the loose cannon mode (imagine you meet Spalla in real life for the very first time after you read him on the internet...my mistake, I see now).
The photos showing him wearing it, were taken after he brought it to his alterations tailor in Spain to get it slimmed (and whatever else he had done).
Actually I did never see a photo of the jacket on him as it is after it was delivered.
Obviously he only took out fabric at the back, causing a balance problem that results in the bizarre V shaped front and closed quarters, the stripe pattern looks accordingly bad due to that "modification".
The other photos show the unfinished and yet unpressed jacket in the workshop, these were taken for Spalla by en employee and send to him via mail.
This was made mtm and shipped to him, no fittings btw. [though we still will never see how it looked before his "tailor" put his hand on it] .


After I received dozens of emails from several accounts (once he realized I blocked one) from Spalla, all of them consisting the worst insults a la "I am going to gas you fucking homos, my family were Nazi refugees in Spain" I am not interested in any further communication.
I even had to disable the anonymous comment option on my blog...I had to move dozens of anonymous comments from "Adolf Hitler" and "Rudolf Hess", consisting of furious racist insults of the worst kind to the spam folder.
Some mails went straight to my lawyer, but unfortuantely it is not easy to get our hands on him as he is not based in Germany.
Click to expand...

What does that even mean.
 
doghouse said:
What does that even mean.
Click to expand...

Sarto enlisted Cravatte Noir in having his famous black pinstriped abortion MTM smells like riot tire on Napoli plastic fussing suit/jacket with bags under the arm made by Chiaia. It was the start of the hatred towards both parties. His most famous hate parade
 
One of our friends in deep analice. It is entitled:

Two Idiots Self-Humillated (from the author)

http://www.styleforum.net/t/67010/double-breasted-style/3000#post_8663671

SartodiNapoli

Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli

Awful diameter of biceps to elbow, looks Madrid untailoring. Why any of this Savile or Madrid is able to do a proper sleeve?

I can´t understand the hype on those while they are the laughs of every single Italian real master tailor I have shown those atrocities.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aristoi bcn
Apart from the big sleeve (in pair with the classic length of the coat) the suit looks very good to me. Look at how the collar hugs the neck and the beautiful sleevehead. Nothing comparable to Larrainzar or Gallo.

The body is ok ( for me it just looks a random rtw Canali or similar from the prior decade, let me tell you), the sleeves are what I always say. Crappy, see it has a lot of cms extra from the armhole to the elbow even standing. Unless they really believe, as it seems from the post below, that is good tailoring.

Here is the proof.

This people always seems to have just a single sleeve pattern for all his clients wherever their real size are.

Better than Gallo, but yet leaves a lot to be desired, same style and same fails. This was the richest Spaniard, 50.000 employees before the government stole all his empire, as per example the famous brand Loewe.

If the “tailor” did this on him, imagine on a pedestrian client...





Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb


He's moving his arm while he's walking you dumb ass.

Before insulting others, learn tailoring and get a teacher to tech you education. Period

And my report by insulting others.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay.

Oh how I missed the interweb tailors

Also missed the best South Italian Alta Sartoria schools and masters that I got as those and missed working on the Neapolitan industry. Anything to add to this “interweb" ridicule?

Why the best masters in the world, (any English by far), gets the laughs when I show them this sartorial crimes that only “interweb” hype followers without, any education and any nothing as on this double flawless victory?

Rubinacci fans and clients can´t be on a conversation about proper tailoring, explained all the time, here we go one more time...

Let’s do an easy cake for this kind of “interweb igents”, Would have any success a line of rtw suits who had as base model those sleeves?

No right?

This people are unable to id (just by reading their hyped tailors over and over) a poor fit from a good one, just seem to follow names and hypes as 99% of people who buys a Ferrari but believes Maserati is a pizzeria located on the next corner.

Three owneds by the price of one.



Flawless victory.

Fatality.

 
This one was sent to me by the same "friend" and is entitled "Chorn and his anal toy"

IMG_6167.webp
 
The inanity continues over at AAAC
https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?235521-UK-Driven-Shoot-What-to-wear
UK Driven Shoot, What to wear.
Hello All,

There are few events which can be as much of a sartorial minefield as a traditional driven shoot in the UK. Showing up on the shoot day in inappropriate gear can be embarrassing, but this is easily avoided with a little research.

I spent almost two years researching this subject and collecting items to wear on my two days shooting in North Yorkshire. Equally as important as looking the part is for a participant to remain warm and dry. Be advised, one should carry a change of clothes when in the field in case of torrential downpour.

Here are the item I put together for my days in the field starting from the bottom to the top.....

Boots: Le Chameau Wellingtons, Men's Chasseur Leather Boots, purchased on Amazon, retail

Socks: Schoffel Ptarmigan with garters, Purchased, Morston's Town and Country, Holt, Norfolk, retail, Second pair of wool shooting sock purchased at Steward Christie and Co. Edinburgh.

Breeks: Holland and Holland, One pair tweed, second pair loden, Purchased Ebay

Underwear: Underarmour boxer briefs

Braces: Holland and Holland, Purchased Ebay

Shirt: 2 Harkila tattersal, gift, retail UK

Gilet: Holland and Holland, loden lined, Purchased Ebay

Coat: 1. Holland and Holland Tweed, Purchased Ebay, 2. Harlika Pro- Hunter, gift, retail, UK

Thermal Top: Icebreaker Merino Wool, Purchased Franconia, Berlin

Leather Gloves:

Ties: 1. Fort and Stone, Wool, gift UK, retail, 2. J. Press, Silk, J. Press, Washington DC store, retail

Sunglasses: Tom Ford, prescription, purchased retail, Bangkok.

Hats: 1. Borsalino flat hat, purchased Rome 2. Brimmed hat

Here is a brief video I put together featuring all of the above items in use in the field. All served me very well and I give my full recommendation for any of the above items. They all kept me warm, dry and feeling confident.

https://youtu.be/19peOh_TpeM

I hope this helps someone. Happy (and safe!) shooting!

Cheers!

BSR
Last edited by Mr. B. Scott Robinson; January 21st, 2017 at 05:39.
 
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Jimmy Frost Mellor said:
The inanity continues over at AAAC
https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?235521-UK-Driven-Shoot-What-to-wear
UK Driven Shoot, What to wear.
Hello All,

There are few events which can be as much of a sartorial minefield as a traditional driven shoot in the UK. Showing up on the shoot day in inappropriate gear can be embarrassing, but this is easily avoided with a little research.

I spent almost two years researching this subject and collecting items to wear on my two days shooting in North Yorkshire. Equally as important as looking the part is for a participant to remain warm and dry. Be advised, one should carry a change of clothes when in the field in case of torrential downpour.

Here are the item I put together for my days in the field starting from the bottom to the top.....

Boots: Le Chameau Wellingtons, Men's Chasseur Leather Boots, purchased on Amazon, retail

Socks: Schoffel Ptarmigan with garters, Purchased, Morston's Town and Country, Holt, Norfolk, retail, Second pair of wool shooting sock purchased at Steward Christie and Co. Edinburgh.

Breeks: Holland and Holland, One pair tweed, second pair loden, Purchased Ebay

Underwear: Underarmour boxer briefs

Braces: Holland and Holland, Purchased Ebay

Shirt: 2 Harkila tattersal, gift, retail UK

Gilet: Holland and Holland, loden lined, Purchased Ebay

Coat: 1. Holland and Holland Tweed, Purchased Ebay, 2. Harlika Pro- Hunter, gift, retail, UK

Thermal Top: Icebreaker Merino Wool, Purchased Franconia, Berlin

Leather Gloves:

Ties: 1. Fort and Stone, Wool, gift UK, retail, 2. J. Press, Silk, J. Press, Washington DC store, retail

Sunglasses: Tom Ford, prescription, purchased retail, Bangkok.

Hats: 1. Borsalino flat hat, purchased Rome 2. Brimmed hat

Here is a brief video I put together featuring all of the above items in use in the field. All served me very well and I give my full recommendation for any of the above items. They all kept me warm, dry and feeling confident.

https://youtu.be/19peOh_TpeM

I hope this helps someone. Happy (and safe!) shooting!

Cheers!

BSR
Last edited by Mr. B. Scott Robinson; January 21st, 2017 at 05:39.
Click to expand...

2 years researching? He could've walked into any shooting shop and walk out with a full outfit 30 mins later.
 
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As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
2 years researching to look like a ruddy farmer off to the cattle market. Magnificent!

I like all the references to buying stuff in Berlin, Bangkok and Rome. And this beaut: "Underwear: Underarmour boxer briefs".

Still, it's a nice part of the world Yorkshire, not only the Yorkshire Dales, but the countryside east of Harrogate all the way down to Beverley before you end up in the dump that is Hull. You can still find the olde merrie England spirit in these places and I can understand people getting excited about taking part in a shoot in these places.
 
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