The Winter Coat Thread

[Ambrosius08]

I really wanted to get another Duffel. My existing one is well made, but from a high street store chain. Having decided to go made in UK I haven't found a 100% wool duffel. Gloverall for example is only 80%.

I think a blend of wool-poly can be a positive trait in an overcoat, as long as it has less than 20% poly in it. Much more durable against stress by friction.

 

[florisgreen]

A great classic, this double breasted overcoat, here in a version by Orazio Luciano.

 

[belinmad]

Thinking of having something like the one on the left cut, using the latest LL tobacco flannel

thoughts?

 

[florisgreen]

^
Nice cloth. I wouldn't use a fur collar though.

 

[belinmad]

^
Nice cloth. I wouldn't use a fur collar though.

of course you wouldn’t

 

[QuandoDio]

Thinking of having something like the one on the left cut, using the latest LL tobacco flannel

thoughts?

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Very dandy. But I think it suits your personality/style and you could wear it with confidence.

 

[belinmad]

Very dandy. But I think it suits your personality/style and you could wear it with confidence.

Thanks
What do you mean by “dandy”? What are the features that make it so? Not sure I understand how you are applying the term in this case. Thanks again

 

[QuandoDio]

Thanks
What do you mean by “dandy”? What are the features that make it so? Not sure I understand how you are applying the term in this case. Thanks again

Was just a throwaway comment but the fur collar can be considered dandified by many. It is a mostly unusual feature in most overcoats - other than, say the menswear crowd or Pitti folk. The same way I have never seen a Casentino cloth in the flesh or on non-menswear people.

 

[belinmad]

Was just a throwaway comment but the fur collar can be considered dandified by many. It is a mostly unusual feature in most overcoats - other than, say the menswear crowd or Pitti folk. The same way I have never seen a Casentino cloth in the flesh or on non-menswear people.

Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the clarification.

I see an opportunity to make it more versatile as a coat if I have the fur collar to be detachable. Maybe.

 

[Dropbear]

I agree with both points. To the masses out there, a fur collar probably looks a little dandy or effeminate. It is also warm, comfortable and very practical. If it’s removable, it makes the price more versatile.

I’m coming at this from my current interest in leather jackets with removable mouton collars, but I i k it holds true for coats as well.

 

[Ambrosius08]

Thinking of having something like the one on the left cut, using the latest LL tobacco flannel

thoughts?

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Definitely go for it. The fabric is stunning, and in my experience a detachable fur collar is very useful in the cold months.

No one with a functional brain will say it looks effeminate on you. For that to happen, it would require a feeble physique, a reserved personality, and somewhat girly mannerisms.
I would think it more likely for some annoying vegans being passive-aggressive at you for wearing fur.

 

[florisgreen]

Besides cloth, cut and fit, also details are eminently important.

Half belt and cuffs in an Attolini coat:

 

[Panama]

Besides cloth, cut and fit, also details are eminently important.

Half belt and cuffs in an Attolini coat:

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I bought a rain coat from a high street mens clothing store in my twenties. Everyone commented it's was a ladies coat so often I gave it to my Step Mother.

 

[Ambrosius08]

I bought a rain coat from a high street mens clothing store in my twenties. Everyone commented it's was a ladies coat so often I gave it to my Step Mother.

That must have felt disencouraging. To be fair, when you are in your teens/early twenties, pretty much anything besides jeans, a hoodie, and some canvas sneakers will be labelled "gay" or "a girls' X" by your peers.

 

[florisgreen]

Two examples from Sartoria Panico:

Strangely it seems that the double breasted coat has lost its non-functioning buttons.

 

[florisgreen]

A lovely, rugged garment, the peacoat, also known as caban jacket, has the raw charm of the seamen, for whom it was created.

If I'm pretty open for variations in style, on the other hand I think that some garments just look perfect in their original form.

Two interpretations by MacAngus & Wainwright (of course according to the specifications of the customer):

Already the first one looks too refined to me in its cashmere blend cloth and with those contrasting buttons, also at the cuffs, and the second is definitely extravagant in that melange orange shaggy mohair/merino/cashmere mix fabric.

 

[Panama]

A lovely, rugged garment, the peacoat, also known as caban jacket, has the raw charm of the seamen, for whom it was created.

If I'm pretty open for variations in style, on the other hand I think that some garments just look perfect in their original form.

Two interpretations by MacAngus & Wainwright (of course according to the specifications of the customer):

View attachment 40862

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Already the first one looks too refined to me in its cashmere blend cloth and with those contrasting buttons, also at the cuffs, and the second is definitely extravagant in that melange orange shaggy mohair/merino/cashmere mix fabric.

I agree, the Pea Coat is a times less addition to any wardrobe. Are you sure the orange monstrosity is meant to be a Pea Coat?

 

[belinmad]

A lovely, rugged garment, the peacoat, also known as caban jacket, has the raw charm of the seamen, for whom it was created.

If I'm pretty open for variations in style, on the other hand I think that some garments just look perfect in their original form.

Two interpretations by MacAngus & Wainwright (of course according to the specifications of the customer):

View attachment 40862

View attachment 40863View attachment 40864

Already the first one looks too refined to me in its cashmere blend cloth and with those contrasting buttons, also at the cuffs, and the second is definitely extravagant in that melange orange shaggy mohair/merino/cashmere mix fabric.

Dan is a fantastic tailor, and his coats are superb.

He has cut two long coats and a peacoat for me so far, and I love them.

 

[belinmad]

I agree, the Pea Coat is a times less addition to any wardrobe.

100%.

This one by Antonio Panico is next on my list, once I can go back to Napoli.

 

[florisgreen]

I like this one.

 

[florisgreen]

Are you sure the orange monstrosity is meant to be a Pea Coat?

Well, they call it so, and I can see the style elements of a peacoat.

 

[Sauce]

100%.

This one by Antonio Panico is next on my list, once I can go back to Napoli.

Thats a super nice coat. If you can get me that scarf while your there we'll both be happy.

I got myself a Moorer a couple of seasons back for the Nordic winters. Best investment I've made coatwise. Removable fur lined collar which is zipped with magnets in the lining to keep it upright. Best Siborian goose down quilted, the outer is wool with 10% cashmere. Serious bit of kit. I'm really snugg in it when it drops to minus 15. But once it gets to +10 its too much.

 

[belinmad]

Thats a super nice coat. If you can get me that scarf while your there we'll both be happy.

I got myself a Moorer a couple of seasons back for the Nordic winters. Best investment I've made coatwise. Removable fur lined collar which is zipped with magnets in the lining to keep it upright. Best Siborian goose down quilted, the outer is wool with 10% cashmere. Serious bit of kit. I'm really snugg in it when it drops to minus 15. But once it gets to +10 its too much.
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Built like a tank. I wish I had a need for something like this. London doesn't get nearly as cold. And I try to avoid NY's blizzards when I can.

 

[Panama]

I agree, the Pea Coat is a times less addition to any wardrobe. Are you sure the orange monstrosity is meant to be a Pea Coat?

I have three Pea Coats. My current one is from Gurteen, so not too expensive. I have a Burberry and another that I can't recall the manufacturer. This was put in the boot of a car to be slightly damaged by an oil spill. Being a boarder both unused coats are in a cupboard somewhere.

 

[QuandoDio]

Built like a tank. I wish I had a need for something like this. London doesn't get nearly as cold. And I try to avoid NY's blizzards when I can.

It's a problem isn't it? With each passing year, I seldom wear an overcoat all autumn/winter if I am mostly in London.

I, too have three peacoats.Two navy, one by RL and the other by Gieves&Hawkes. My B&W Herringbone one by Richard James is the one I wear the most and even then I have worn it once or twice in the past 3 years.

 

[Sauce]

It's a problem isn't it? With each passing year, I seldom wear an overcoat all autumn/winter if I am mostly in London.

I, too have three peacoats.Two navy, one by RL and the other by Gieves&Hawkes. My B&W Herringbone one by Richard James is the one I wear the most and even then I have worn it once or twice in the past 3 years.

Sounds like hell. Sometimes I forget how lucky I am to have 2 to 3 months where its minus 8 at best.

 

[belinmad]

Another pea coat - this one is a RTW I picked up at Rubinacci a few years back. It is incredibly comfortable, and the cut is quite elegant, I think, with just the right amount of waist supression.

I had to get the sleeves shortened a bit.

Excuse the iGent pose. I promise I am not trying to find the meaning of life in the ground beneath me.

 

[Ambrosius08]

This is a great one. Just the right amount of texture in the fabric to make it visually interesting, while staying true to the original design in navy melton.

I also agree about it having the perfect amount of waist suppression - often these coats either look overly boxy or ridiculously close-fitting. Yours has a great balance.

 

[güero]

I was a bit undecided having a fur collar, but I am convinced now:

 

[Dropbear]

I found a new Billy Reid Bond Peacoat at half retail and I am sorely tempted. I actually don’t mind that it is unlined and midweight as I would get more use out of it here. It is definitely tempting me.

 

[Dropbear]

I bought the above and like it a lot, for my mild-weather needs. However, if I were doing it over, I’d consider getting a single breasted car coat which you can wear open as well as closed.