Tweed Jacket

thruth said:
Well the iGent connotation is not in the negative sense. A stylish fellow then.

It all depends on what your heaviest worsted is and how that compares to a tweed or faux tweed worsted. Shetland is a lightweight tweed (looser weave). Harris makes a light one. So does Lovat.

Something in the 350 g/sq. meter (10-11 ounces).

For comparison, tropical wool is in the 7-9 ounce per (240 to 300 g). Many suiting fabrics are in the 9 to 13 ounce range. EG. Super 120s. So not necessarily that much heavier at the light end of the spectrum
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Gotcha. Will need to hunt one then. It's kinda hard tofind one around here so eBay is the option or SuitSupply but I think they don't make tweed jackets.
 
Fresh out of the box from England


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Didn't realize it was unusual for hacking pockets to be on a two button. I've seen them plenty on two and three. They fit the fabric here (assuming it's tweed?).
 
Rambo said:
Definitely looks like a jacket to me. Nice work.
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It does? Shit, I asked for pants!


Chorn said:
Didn't realize it was unusual for hacking pockets to be on a two button. I've seen them plenty on two and three. They fit the fabric here (assuming it's tweed?).
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Seems to be pretty common to me. We had a conversation about it when I ordered it, Simon was in favor as well.

Allen Smithee said:
I was asking. I thought the 2B was an American thing and hacking pockets British. I guess not.
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Where the hell is this coming from lately? I had some dude on B&B who did "high end made to measure" ..... Hold on, gotta compose myself.... ...lulz... say that. Two button is a British as it can be since about 1950, I can't even recall seeing a three button on the Row. I'm sure there are some old tweed country suits done for period pieces that are threes running around there, but I haven't seen any regular items on display. Just ones and twos. American on the other hand, three roll two has dominated the twentieth century. This decade has sen an uptick of two buttons, and general British influence I think, but classic American is the three button.
 
Kennedy was an interesting one. He gets the iGentry of the Ivy leanings all hard like the Duke does for the bulk of the landed internet gentry. But a lot of what he did wasn't Ivy, which is interesting. Chenners actually does a pretty good bit here on him. And the article is enhanced by the fact we don't see Chenners creepy bulging eyeballs.

http://www.ivy-style.com/jack-and-john-the-sartorial-dichotomy-of-jfk.html

There's only a handful of houses I considered to start with, and Poole has a house style that I like, sort of a nice middle ground between the Huntsman tunic and Sheppard sack. I fits my personality well and I feel really comfortable in it. So naturally I thought of them first when I crossed the rubicon on actually getting stuff made. The thing that has kept me though is I get on very well with the guys. It's pretty hard to overstate how important relationships are in this.
 
Thanks for the link. Had not read that and still was going off the 2 button because of the back brace theory.

You are bang on about relationships. If you cannot get on with who is tailoring your clothes, move on.
 
My memory says that JFK (or his tailor) chose the paddock cut in an attempt to add visual height.
 
Was just watching FS1 before the Man U Liverpool match, and saw Mike Hill wearing the classic American three button job. It did stand out as most sportscasters are in the currently in vogue two button.

Some other pic of him here.

MikeHill.jpg


Related, you know who has some terrible shit? Mike Krzyzewski.

mike_krzyzewski.jpg
 
I always found Dean Smith to be a better dresser than Coach K. Not great. But better.
 
Well you got no goddamn where to go but up from that.

Ball don't lie.
 
Though I don't know how I could rationalize it, I really want a tweed hacking jacket this winter. I played around in a few MtM sites doing a 'dream jacket': olive/black herringbone, 3 button, hacking pockets with ticket pocket, slim cut with reasonably slim lapels, throat tab, etc.

Getting slightly more realistic, there is this CT jacket at $400. I'm tempted, but I think I'll keep buying cords and tattersalls while waiting for a better deal to turn up somewhere.
 

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Why not go for it? I've been doing mostly tweeds lately, they are super versatile, especially in the new so called "urban" tweed ranges. 2 button, SB, slash pockets. Goes with anything.
 
I'm kinda caught between two polar price points - tailoring a dodgy vintage jacket from eBay and full-on genuine Brit MtM. I wish there was more middle ground, <$400.
 
Well, the eBay option is always accompanied by risk. But not to dissuade you, it can certainly work well.

I have no idea about the Tyrwhitt quality so I can't help there.
 
I love this ensemble, but would probably look like an old fart or a Fedora Lounge Refugee:

Hacking-Jacket-outfit-by-Sean-Connery-845x506.jpg
 
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It doesn't really suit my personal taste, with straight pockets and no guarantee on whether you can get the shape into it you want.

The Connery outfit is great, most of the boxy look is really because he has such broad shoulders. Get a slightly more shaped jacket with more natural shoulders, and it'd be killer.
 
^ this. If properly tailored for you shape and choosing different shirt/time combinations you can avoid what you fear it might look like.
 
Dropbear Dropbear , what are your dimensions? Might help in making suggestions where you might look for RTW jackets in addition to EBay.
 
I'm procrastinating doing some unpleasant chores today - obsessing and researching tweeds and hacking jackets instead.

I'm still leaning towards the CT jacket above, though my only experience with them is shirts: good cut, fair quality but overpriced.

Another option is to buy a couple meters of fabric and go Thick as Thieves - I already have 3 jackets and a suit from Jason, so I'm familiar with his product. The challenge will be convincing him to make it longer and even harder, adding a throat tab. I think I'd so with a solid dark olive thornproof to make it a little more countrified.

Thanks for reading my ramblings!

Edit to add: thanks thruth!! 17.75" shoulder, 38" chest, 32" waist, short arms.
 
How about Bespoke Mears MtM? Comes out to $400 with all the features I'd want in a good fabric (can't find an olive thornproof scrolling with my phone, but I'm sure it's there). I can't tell if that price includes VAT, but even if not the price still sounds good and a lot better than other options I've seen.
 
I think they did the construction for Bookster. With options it will be closer to $500, no?
 
Too many pop-ups and freezes to navigate that site on my phone, but it would appear to be $400 with an extra $25 for slim lapels. That price covers some nice tweeds - herringbone, thornproof, heavy keepers and melange. plus that prove appears to include VAT! Too good to be true?

I'll confirm pricing structure tonight. That's almost half the new Bookster price.
 
thruth said:
I think they did the construction for Bookster. With options it will be closer to $500, no?
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$511 delivered!

I'm still stuck on the mid-weight olive herringbone, but that super-heavy melange is rather amazing. I imagine it would feel like a peacoat.
 
I got an email reply from Lynne Meare this morning (sent at 8am GMT on a Sunday!). She is ordering six swatches to send to me at no charge.

I enquired about the narrow lapel option and she enclosed this pic. Additionally, she advised that it wouldn't work with the collar tab.

Oh dear, now I think I might be wanting two new jackets!
 

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