WDYBT: What Did You Buy Today

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
7,599
1628591961490.png
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
The cloth has a nice silky shine, but I don't like the collar, too small and with the stitching too near to the edge.
I kind of agree, most of my collars are wide. I didn't really notice, until I took the photo. I don't think anyone else will notice, I don't intend to wear them with a tie. So let's see.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
Arrived yesterday, three new Joshua Ellis scarves:

20210812_114310.jpg

20210812_114337.jpg


20210812_114405.jpg


The magenta and the purple/loden ones are in light cashmere, the light grey/orange one is in merino wool.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
I bought two pairs of shorts from Kilgour. They arrived today, they are very well made but the sizing is weird. I am not too sure if I should size up or just get a refund as there is no free returns.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
For Nostalgia I just bought made in Uk Thomas Pink Imperial 200 and Grosvenor shirts off eBay...
 
Last edited:

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
Was feeling a little down and was near the local Albini office today, and remembered the shirt maker I'm trying previously recommended Thomas Mason if I want to upgrade the fabric, so naturally I went in and had a look. This was my first time buying cloth directly and I must say it's way more time-consuming than I expected, mainly because I didn't have any goal in my mind. Any experience on the quality (e.g. any better alternatives), or thoughts on styling?


Top to down:
1. Gold Linen
I was aiming to test whether the "pale yellow shirt is more versatile than white" statement is true. Everything seemed too yellowish for my liking so I picked this very light brown X white linen. The colour is a bit lighter IRL.

Note: I really liked the white version of a AW2021 Cotton-Wool mix (probably called Balmoral) a lot. It had a really soft touch, very matte and not too transparent, but I already have an Alumo Oxford in white made up, and an upcoming white cotton-linen. Also, on the swatch book it was characterised as "warm"; I didn't know enough about shirting and was aiming for something more year-round, so I gave it a pass. I also liked a green linen in "Sahara" and "Everyday", but limited myself to one length only since I already have many uniqlo/GU linen shirts.

2. Victoria 120/2 Indaco
Inspired by a nice denim shirt I saw on the forum so I picked this up. The code I jotted down was the 2nd lightest shade; the colour on the cloth I received was way more saturated (which makes it more casual IMO) and way deeper. Not sure if it'll fade to the swatch's colour or some mistakes occurred. Not what I was expecting at all but not important enough to make a fuss.

Note: I realised I've accidentally skipped a book (from another Albini subsidiary) which also had some denim shirtings when the guy was cutting this piece, but I didn't want to make any changes since I've already sat there for an hour.

3. Amber (some Cotton Linen mix)
Pretty soft hand and seemed breathable enough for the tropical climate at my location. I wanted to try a grey shirt but nothing really caught my eye, so I ended up choosing this greyish light blue that has a somewhat matte look.


Small note on my experience:
This was overall fun but daunting, since I didn't have any plan on what I need made. I saw some DJA fabrics in the "Noble" books and the price caused me to skip all the Noble books altogether. I only later realised that some lines in those books were similar to what I have ordered, and maybe closer to what I was having in mind. I want to upgrade my wardrobe, but not in one go, so that's it for now.

Edit:
Some poplin, stretch, or oxford felt nice, probably gave them a try next time if anyone recommends them. I like the chambray 140 too. Not sure how these perform against Alumo though.

Shirtings.jpg
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
33,073
Was feeling a little down and was near the local Albini office today, and remembered the shirt maker I'm trying previously recommended Thomas Mason if I want to upgrade the fabric, so naturally I went in and had a look. This was my first time buying cloth directly and I must say it's way more time-consuming than I expected, mainly because I didn't have any goal in my mind. Any experience on the quality (e.g. any better alternatives), or thoughts on styling?


Top to down:
1. Gold Linen
I was aiming to test whether the "pale yellow shirt is more versatile than white" statement is true. Everything seemed too yellowish for my liking so I picked this very light brown X white linen. The colour is a bit lighter IRL.

Note: I really liked the white version of a AW2021 Cotton-Wool mix (probably called Balmoral) a lot. It had a really soft touch, very matte and not too transparent, but I already have an Alumo Oxford in white made up, and an upcoming white cotton-linen. Also, on the swatch book it was characterised as "warm"; I didn't know enough about shirting and was aiming for something more year-round, so I gave it a pass. I also liked a green linen in "Sahara" and "Everyday", but limited myself to one length only since I already have many uniqlo/GU linen shirts.

2. Victoria 120/2 Indaco
Inspired by a nice denim shirt I saw on the forum so I picked this up. The code I jotted down was the 2nd lightest shade; the colour on the cloth I received was way more saturated (which makes it more casual IMO) and way deeper. Not sure if it'll fade to the swatch's colour or some mistakes occurred. Not what I was expecting at all but not important enough to make a fuss.

Note: I realised I've accidentally skipped a book (from another Albini subsidiary) which also had some denim shirtings when the guy was cutting this piece, but I didn't want to make any changes since I've already sat there for an hour.

3. Amber (some Cotton Linen mix)
Pretty soft hand and seemed breathable enough for the tropical climate at my location. I wanted to try a grey shirt but nothing really caught my eye, so I ended up choosing this greyish light blue that has a somewhat matte look.


Small note on my experience:
This was overall fun but daunting, since I didn't have any plan on what I need made. I saw some DJA fabrics in the "Noble" books and the price caused me to skip all the Noble books altogether. I only later realised that some lines in those books were similar to what I have ordered, and maybe closer to what I was having in mind. I want to upgrade my wardrobe, but not in one go, so that's it for now.

Edit:
Some poplin, stretch, or oxford felt nice, probably gave them a try next time if anyone recommends them. I like the chambray 140 too. Not sure how these perform against Alumo though.

View attachment 41289
What’s the plan for the shirts? Casual? Pair with sport jacket? With a suit?
 

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
What’s the plan for the shirts? Casual? Pair with sport jacket? With a suit?
I'd say mostly on the casual side...likely bare shirt or with a sports coat, maybe a casual suit when I have one. I never have to dress up for my job (senior managements pracitcally forced us to wear polos ffs) so whatever I wear is for leisure.

If it makes sense, I expect to wear the linen one the most since it's very humid and warm most of the time; the light blue one in most different occasions since the fabric seems most versatile; then the denim one for maybe more casual outfits.

I'm mostly set on having no pocket + normal barrel cuff + no placket (except maybe the denim) since they are so soft. But I'm not too inspired on what collar style to get...considering experimenting one-piece collar or "Great Gatsby" type long collar but I'm fine with something more normal too if these are too obnoxious.

If it helps I currently have a "good" button down linen in blue and a business spread collar in a higher yarn count white oxford. I dress for fun but don't want to end up with something unwearable too lol.
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
33,073
I'd say mostly on the casual side...likely bare shirt or with a sports coat, maybe a casual suit when I have one. I never have to dress up for my job (senior managements pracitcally forced us to wear polos ffs) so whatever I wear is for leisure.

If it makes sense, I expect to wear the linen one the most since it's very humid and warm most of the time; the light blue one in most different occasions since the fabric seems most versatile; then the denim one for maybe more casual outfits.

I'm mostly set on having no pocket + normal barrel cuff + no placket (except maybe the denim) since they are so soft. But I'm not too inspired on what collar style to get...considering experimenting one-piece collar or "Great Gatsby" type long collar but I'm fine with something more normal too if these are too obnoxious.

If it helps I currently have a "good" button down linen in blue and a business spread collar in a higher yarn count white oxford. I dress for fun but don't want to end up with something unwearable too lol.
for casual i think the top and bottom linens would be great. i've always been a fan of that sandy linen color on top. i personally think a standard collar is good for all occasions but if you want to get fancy maybe doghouse doghouse could give you some ideas.
 

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
for casual i think the top and bottom linens would be great. i've always been a fan of that sandy linen color on top. i personally think a standard collar is good for all occasions but if you want to get fancy maybe doghouse doghouse could give you some ideas.
Thanks Rambo. Any tips on interlining?

I'm used to uniqlo ones that are super soft (or no lining?), so was quite surprised to find that the collar and cuff on my custom linen shirt to have some structure. It's by no means stiff, and has soften slightly after 2-3 washes, but it still doesn't seem as casual as I had envisioned. I'm not sure if that's normal and I'm just used to terrible shirts, or it's built to be slightly less casual. Pics for reference.
 

Attachments

  • linenshirt1.jpg
    linenshirt1.jpg
    87.6 KB · Views: 4

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
33,073
Thanks Rambo. Any tips on interlining?

I'm used to uniqlo ones that are super soft (or no lining?), so was quite surprised to find that the collar and cuff on my custom linen shirt to have some structure. It's by no means stiff, and has soften slightly after 2-3 washes, but it still doesn't seem as casual as I had envisioned. I'm not sure if that's normal and I'm just used to terrible shirts, or it's built to be slightly less casual. Pics for reference.
thats just a personal preference thing. some people like the floopy collar look and some people aren't. on a "casual" shirt i think a stiff collar and cuff looks ridiculous, and especially on a linen, but i know some people are going to disagree with me on that one.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
View attachment 41299
These babies arrived today. My first JL pair.
Lopez? Nice. I turned a pair down on sale in a shop in Barcelona for 400 euro in museum calf about ten years ago. Stupid, stupid man. You should try and get to their factory shop. Not long by train from London, think its under an hour. Trickers is quite close to it and Churchs' is five minutes from the station. Not a massive choice in them but I've always found something I like at Lobbs.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
Lopez? Nice. I turned a pair down on sale in a shop in Barcelona for 400 euro in museum calf about ten years ago. Stupid, stupid man. You should try and get to their factory shop. Not long by train from London, think its under an hour. Trickers is quite close to it and Churchs' is five minutes from the station. Not a massive choice in them but I've always found something I like at Lobbs.
Yup, Lopez, Caviar Museum Leather (whatever that means), plum color.

Good shout about the factory shop! I'll put it down in the list of day trips. Thanks!
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
Yup, Lopez, Caviar Museum Leather (whatever that means), plum color.

Good shout about the factory shop! I'll put it down in the list of day trips. Thanks!
Best to get a taxi from the station to Lobbs. Its about a fiver. The factory shop is about 100 meters down the road from the factory on the same side of the street. Its a modern unit complex set back with a gated entrance, you can't miss it. If you walk back upto the main road theres a bus stop on the other side and you can get that back into town. Their regular, like every ten minutes. I can't remember the number. Trickers is walkable from Lobbs. I got a nice pair of loafers from there, should have got some boots for the winter here really. Schoolboy error.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
Best to get a taxi from the station to Lobbs. Its about a fiver. The factory shop is about 100 meters down the road from the factory on the same side of the street. Its a modern unit complex set back with a gated entrance, you can't miss it. If you walk back upto the main road theres a bus stop on the other side and you can get that back into town. Their regular, like every ten minutes. I can't remember the number. Trickers is walkable from Lobbs. I got a nice pair of loafers from there, should have got some boots for the winter here really. Schoolboy error.
Worth driving there? What else is in the area?
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,723
Worth driving there? What else is in the area?
Church’s, Trickers, Crockett & Jones and Lobb are all walkable from the railway station. Lobb is just north of the racecourse park in a quiet street. Prices have gone up considerably but still better than retail, though they might not have the model you want.

Trickers is good value and open every day as is Church’s. C&J is Friday and Saturday only. Edward Green now has a shop and is also walkable. Better than trying to park up in my opinion- unless you want to visit other shoe firms in Northamptonshire.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
Worth driving there? What else is in the area?
When I went Edward Green had a factory shop, I think its a little outside the town. I've never been. You'd have to check opening times. Joseph Cheaney is in Desborough which is Leicester way, maybe 20-30 minutes away. C&J is only open Fridays and Saturdays. Northampton itself is a small market town. Its not a great town to be honest, a bit dull. Though each time I've been its just been on the mission for shoes so it may have other stuff to see and do. You might need a permit to park on the roads Lobb, Churchs' and Trickers are on. I don't know that for a fact but maybe. I seem to recall G&G have a factory shop as well. It might be in Kettering.

You could always ring the shops and ask about parking, best to check opening times anyway.

Theres also this place in Rutland, I've never been but might be worth a look while your in the area. If you take the car. I believe their shoe stock are end of lines and seconds.


My Berkleys (i think their called that) from Lobbs factory shop are seconds. They had a very slight nick on the sole edge that I put polish on and you couldn't see after. The faults are super minor. I'd go by car I think, but I'm pretty lazy.
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
11,572
for casual i think the top and bottom linens would be great. i've always been a fan of that sandy linen color on top. i personally think a standard collar is good for all occasions but if you want to get fancy maybe doghouse doghouse could give you some ideas.

Thanks Rambo. Any tips on interlining?

I'm used to uniqlo ones that are super soft (or no lining?), so was quite surprised to find that the collar and cuff on my custom linen shirt to have some structure. It's by no means stiff, and has soften slightly after 2-3 washes, but it still doesn't seem as casual as I had envisioned. I'm not sure if that's normal and I'm just used to terrible shirts, or it's built to be slightly less casual. Pics for reference.

My preference on linen is either button down collar or camp collar. I find traditional collars are to floppy with linen and you really don't want to use collar stays, it's sort of against the whole point of linen to have a rigid collar.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
7,599
When I went Edward Green had a factory shop, I think its a little outside the town. I've never been. You'd have to check opening times. Joseph Cheaney is in Desborough which is Leicester way, maybe 20-30 minutes away. C&J is only open Fridays and Saturdays. Northampton itself is a small market town. Its not a great town to be honest, a bit dull. Though each time I've been its just been on the mission for shoes so it may have other stuff to see and do. You might need a permit to park on the roads Lobb, Churchs' and Trickers are on. I don't know that for a fact but maybe. I seem to recall G&G have a factory shop as well. It might be in Kettering.
A few years ago I drove to Northampton on the meandering way to London from Scotland. Went to EG. From memory I thought they had a parking lot at factory - I may be wrong.

I didn't think it was "outside town" but then I'm from Australia and everything in UK seemed just next to each other. Even in the "wilderness" or country you never seemed to be further than a 20 min short walk away from a pub !!!
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
Was feeling a little down and was near the local Albini office today, and remembered the shirt maker I'm trying previously recommended Thomas Mason if I want to upgrade the fabric, so naturally I went in and had a look. This was my first time buying cloth directly and I must say it's way more time-consuming than I expected, mainly because I didn't have any goal in my mind. Any experience on the quality (e.g. any better alternatives), or thoughts on styling?


Top to down:
1. Gold Linen
I was aiming to test whether the "pale yellow shirt is more versatile than white" statement is true. Everything seemed too yellowish for my liking so I picked this very light brown X white linen. The colour is a bit lighter IRL.

Note: I really liked the white version of a AW2021 Cotton-Wool mix (probably called Balmoral) a lot. It had a really soft touch, very matte and not too transparent, but I already have an Alumo Oxford in white made up, and an upcoming white cotton-linen. Also, on the swatch book it was characterised as "warm"; I didn't know enough about shirting and was aiming for something more year-round, so I gave it a pass. I also liked a green linen in "Sahara" and "Everyday", but limited myself to one length only since I already have many uniqlo/GU linen shirts.

2. Victoria 120/2 Indaco
Inspired by a nice denim shirt I saw on the forum so I picked this up. The code I jotted down was the 2nd lightest shade; the colour on the cloth I received was way more saturated (which makes it more casual IMO) and way deeper. Not sure if it'll fade to the swatch's colour or some mistakes occurred. Not what I was expecting at all but not important enough to make a fuss.

Note: I realised I've accidentally skipped a book (from another Albini subsidiary) which also had some denim shirtings when the guy was cutting this piece, but I didn't want to make any changes since I've already sat there for an hour.

3. Amber (some Cotton Linen mix)
Pretty soft hand and seemed breathable enough for the tropical climate at my location. I wanted to try a grey shirt but nothing really caught my eye, so I ended up choosing this greyish light blue that has a somewhat matte look.


Small note on my experience:
This was overall fun but daunting, since I didn't have any plan on what I need made. I saw some DJA fabrics in the "Noble" books and the price caused me to skip all the Noble books altogether. I only later realised that some lines in those books were similar to what I have ordered, and maybe closer to what I was having in mind. I want to upgrade my wardrobe, but not in one go, so that's it for now.

Edit:
Some poplin, stretch, or oxford felt nice, probably gave them a try next time if anyone recommends them. I like the chambray 140 too. Not sure how these perform against Alumo though.

View attachment 41289
I prefer Albini and Grandi and Rubinelli, now owned by Canclini. I am not really a fan of Canclini.

I have limited experience with Monti/Sic Tess and Testa Spa/Atelier Romentino.

The more artisan Bonfanti and Carlo Riva/Fermo Fossati 1871 are too expensive.

There are some other players, but these seem to go bust frequently. I miss Ferno.

With Linen there are few specialist mills such as Solbiati.

Most Italian fabrics are now produced in Central Europe or Egypt.
 

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
I prefer Albini and Grandi and Rubinelli, now owned by Canclini. I am not really a fan of Canclini.

I have limited experience with Monti/Sic Tess and Testa Spa/Atelier Romentino.

The more artisan Bonfanti and Carlo Riva/Fermo Fossati 1871 are too expensive.

There are some other players, but these seem to go bust frequently. I miss Ferno.

With Linen there are few specialist mills such as Solbiati.

Most Italian fabrics are now produced in Central Europe or Egypt.
Thanks...Might try out Solbiati next time. I've only seen their Jacketing / Suiting being heavily promoted.

Re fabrics being produced elsewhere - is that the raw material or the milling process? I assume the implication is that quality has gone down, but the cloths with "Giza" in the name I tried yesterday were very nice IMO.
 

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
My preference on linen is either button down collar or camp collar. I find traditional collars are to floppy with linen and you really don't want to use collar stays, it's sort of against the whole point of linen to have a rigid collar.
Do you have any interlining with button down / camp collar? Also, wouldn't it be bard to wear a long sleeved camp collar shirt?

Personally I'm ok with collars being somewhat floppy unless it's for business. Probably doesn't make sense but I want my clothes to be made sharp but have some "flow" in it. I'm not very well-versed with the menswear language...and the English language.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
I prefer Albini and Grandi and Rubinelli, now owned by Canclini. I am not really a fan of Canclini.

I have limited experience with Monti/Sic Tess and Testa Spa/Atelier Romentino.

The more artisan Bonfanti and Carlo Riva/Fermo Fossati 1871 are too expensive.

There are some other players, but these seem to go bust frequently. I miss Ferno.

With Linen there are few specialist mills such as Solbiati.

Most Italian fabrics are now produced in Central Europe or Egypt.
Solbiati do some nice cottons as well. I'm having a pair of pants made in denim by them at the minute. Made be ready to pick up today I think. I've been told the mill is owned by Loro Piana now.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
Church’s, Trickers, Crockett & Jones and Lobb are all walkable from the railway station. Lobb is just north of the racecourse park in a quiet street. Prices have gone up considerably but still better than retail, though they might not have the model you want.

Trickers is good value and open every day as is Church’s. C&J is Friday and Saturday only. Edward Green now has a shop and is also walkable. Better than trying to park up in my opinion- unless you want to visit other shoe firms in Northamptonshire.
1631779970623.png

This would be it, I guess? 1:40 drive from home.
Cheaney is indeed in Desborough, about 30’ away from Northampton according to google maps.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,723
View attachment 41314
This would be it, I guess? 1:40 drive from home.
Cheaney is indeed in Desborough, about 30’ away from Northampton according to google maps.
Yes. By rail you could visit Church’s first or last. The other three are close heading North, with Edward Green a bit further out. Walking saves constantly looking for a parking space.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
Re fabrics being produced elsewhere - is that the raw material or the milling process? I assume the implication is that quality has gone down, but the cloths with "Giza" in the name I tried yesterday were very nice IMO.
The raw materials for superfine shirting comes Egypt and the USA. Albini has a factory in Egypt, I assume producing fabric instead of yarn. The Italian spinner Filmar has also opened a plant in Egypt. Albini has or had production in Letohrad and Dvůr Králové. Whilst Monti was based in Borovnice, but according to Google is now permanently closed.

Giza, can be either extra long or long staple cotton. For shirting this will be Giza 45 or Giza 87. Giza 70 is also an ELS.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
384
Yes. By rail you could visit Church’s first or last. The other three are close heading North, with Edward Green a bit further out. Walking saves constantly looking for a parking space.
Is Greens hard to get from the station Kingy? Walkable?
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
606
The raw materials for superfine shirting comes Egypt and the USA. Albini has a factory in Egypt, I assume producing fabric instead of yarn. The Italian spinner Filmar has also opened a plant in Egypt. Albini has or had production in Letohrad and Dvůr Králové. Whilst Monti was based in Borovnice, but according to Google is now permanently closed.

Giza, can be either extra long or long staple cotton. For shirting this will be Giza 45 or Giza 87. Giza 70 is also an ELS.
Monti appears to have a location still at
Studenec
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
11,572
Do you have any interlining with button down / camp collar? Also, wouldn't it be bard to wear a long sleeved camp collar shirt?

Personally I'm ok with collars being somewhat floppy unless it's for business. Probably doesn't make sense but I want my clothes to be made sharp but have some "flow" in it. I'm not very well-versed with the menswear language...and the English language.
I do interlining with button down but not camp.

I did miss you were talking about long sleeve. In that case I would definitely be looking at button down for myself, but that's just me.

The floppy collar thing takes away from the sharpness imo. More than that it's just annoying to wear in my experience.
 

alex1942

Active Member
Messages
27
I do interlining with button down but not camp.

I did miss you were talking about long sleeve. In that case I would definitely be looking at button down for myself, but that's just me.

The floppy collar thing takes away from the sharpness imo. More than that it's just annoying to wear in my experience.
Thanks for your input...I might go with button down again in that case.

On a side note - what do you guys do with leftover fabric? The minimum order for the denim cloth is more than I need and I'll be left with a long strip of it...around 40cm*150cm. Can't think of anything around that size except maybe a bra.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
983
Thanks for your input...I might go with button down again in that case.

On a side note - what do you guys do with leftover fabric? The minimum order for the denim cloth is more than I need and I'll be left with a long strip of it...around 40cm*150cm. Can't think of anything around that size except maybe a bra.
Keep it - you never know when you might need extra fabric to fix/alter your garments.
 
Top Bottom