Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

FriendCustomer

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View attachment 30209 FriendCustomer FriendCustomer . He was too busy for me to dig around in his cloth today but saw this. Not something I could use but very nice.
As you probably know this is another type of fabric that is not being produced as before. I have one Reid and Taylor twist suit and 3 others in the rougher Sportex variety. I also have an enormous stock of of this type cloth (more than the Toniks). I will spare you all the pictures unless the demand is overwhelming as some of the suits and cloth has been posted before in the cloth thread. I would probably pass on this one as the pattern based on the photo is not particularly appealing to me. Bench worthy cloth nonetheless for the right customer. these kind of specialty cloths : Tonik and especially Scottish twist, are really not that hard to find if one is interested, they are really no longer practical for most people. More challenging is finding quality old school london shrunk business suitings in classic patterns in lighter and mid weights. vintage flannels and linens are also not so easy to source.
 

Jupiter

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As you probably know this is another type of fabric that is not being produced as before. I have one Reid and Taylor twist suit and 3 others in the rougher Sportex variety. I also have an enormous stock of of this type cloth (more than the Toniks). I will spare you all the pictures unless the demand is overwhelming as some of the suits and cloth has been posted before in the cloth thread. I would probably pass on this one as the pattern based on the photo is not particularly appealing to me. Bench worthy cloth nonetheless for the right customer. these kind of specialty cloths : Tonik and especially Scottish twist, are really not that hard to find if one is interested, they are really no longer practical for most people. More challenging is finding quality old school london shrunk business suitings in classic patterns in lighter and mid weights. vintage flannels and linens are also not so easy to source.
Please post your Sportex again.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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As you probably know this is another type of fabric that is not being produced as before. I have one Reid and Taylor twist suit and 3 others in the rougher Sportex variety. I also have an enormous stock of of this type cloth (more than the Toniks). I will spare you all the pictures unless the demand is overwhelming as some of the suits and cloth has been posted before in the cloth thread. I would probably pass on this one as the pattern based on the photo is not particularly appealing to me. Bench worthy cloth nonetheless for the right customer. these kind of specialty cloths : Tonik and especially Scottish twist, are really not that hard to find if one is interested, they are really no longer practical for most people. More challenging is finding quality old school london shrunk business suitings in classic patterns in lighter and mid weights. vintage flannels and linens are also not so easy to source.
I would like to get hold of some Silver Gander again or anything remotely in that Reid & Taylor twisted style for some winter jackets. If anyone's a private stash, please PM.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Just for a jacket or did you mean for a suit? Some of the patterns can work as standalone jackets but they are suiting cloth and really work better that way.
I was thinking of a standalone jacket, I've one pair of pants that can practically stand-up by themselves already.

That kind of cloth has gone so far over the horizon of living memory, I think it could work as a jacket. You're certainly going to stand-out from the crowd.
 

Buitenlander

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On Naples, do you have a tailor that has made you things before and you came back and he makes you almost a completely different jacket than he did the last time? Is every suit or jacket going over the same things?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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On Naples, do you have a tailor that has made you things before and you came back and he makes you almost a completely different jacket than he did the last time? Is every suit or jacket going over the same things?
That would be a strong indication that manufacture is being outsourced to those Tuscany hill sweat shops with no QC as regards signature style when it arrives back at the tailor's.
 

Buitenlander

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Of course. It's the neapolitan tailoring roulette. Enjoy!
That would be a strong indication that manufacture is being outsourced to those Tuscany hill sweat shops with no QC as regards signature style when it arrives back at the tailor's.
I am in the north. This guy does his own work. He makes the jacket, his wife makes the pants. Last time a fine suit. This time short jacket. The guy is close to 80. It’s not like a hipster Pitti tailor.
 

FriendCustomer

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On Naples, do you have a tailor that has made you things before and you came back and he makes you almost a completely different jacket than he did the last time? Is every suit or jacket going over the same things?
That would be a strong indication that manufacture is being outsourced to those Tuscany hill sweat shops with no QC as regards signature style when it arrives back at the tailor's.
Yes this happens from time to time with tailors I’ve used in naples and it has had absolutely nothing to do with sending things out to factories. It’s ussually because they just don’t note your preferences or their corrections. My basic measurements don’t change, but let’s say I ask a tailor at the fitting to make the jacket a bit longer and the pants a bit wider and there is a bump on one of my shoulders. He’ll make the corrections but if he then doesn’t remember, write it down, or adjust his pattern or measurements then the next time the same issue may appear or perhaps he’ll misremember and do something different. But of course it is in his interest to get right the next time so he doesn’t have to redo his work. One would hope that after a few times (not 11) he should start to remember your preferences or at least write them down. But it is always good to remind the tailor. I find this problem is more commmon with old stubborn tailors.

I have also used a tailor (not from Italy) who believes that a suits style should be dictated by the cloth. Some cloths call for a harder shoulder or more drape or shorter coat or wider lapels, etc... for him some should look more 30s or 60s or 70s, etc... he is usually good about expressing this to me before he starts, and let’s me decide. I couldn’t even imagine having these type of conversations with a tailor from naples. And each of his suits has a style that is usually a bit different than the others unless I tell him I want it like a previous one.
 

doghouse

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Yes this happens from time to time with tailors I’ve used in naples and it has had absolutely nothing to do with sending things out to factories. It’s ussually because they just don’t note your preferences or their corrections. My basic measurements don’t change, but let’s say I ask a tailor at the fitting to make the jacket a bit longer and the pants a bit wider and there is a bump on one of my shoulders. He’ll make the corrections but if he then doesn’t remember, write it down, or adjust his pattern or measurements then the next time the same issue may appear or perhaps he’ll misremember and do something different. But of course it is in his interest to get right the next time so he doesn’t have to redo his work. One would hope that after a few times (not 11) he should start to remember your preferences or at least write them down. But it is always good to remind the tailor. I find this problem is more commmon with old stubborn tailors.

I have also used a tailor (not from Italy) who believes that a suits style should be dictated by the cloth. Some cloths call for a harder shoulder or more drape or shorter coat or wider lapels, etc... for him some should look more 30s or 60s or 70s, etc... he is usually good about expressing this to me before he starts, and let’s me decide. I couldn’t even imagine having these type of conversations with a tailor from naples. And each of his suits has a style that is usually a bit different than the others unless I tell him I want it like a previous one.
The second part of this I'm in strong agreement with.
 

Buitenlander

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In the Dutch holiday lands of Friuli again?
Ha. Not this time. My brother is playing a festival near Rimini so my sister came to meet me. She wanted to see an opera so we have been in Verona, Padova, Cittadella, Bassano del Grappa and some others I can’t remember. Now down on the party beaches by Cesena and Rimini.
 

Buitenlander

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1CCC8433-B965-4703-B007-1678F0CDDE2B.png

Added some length to the jacket and made the lapels a little wider. I loved the color as a bolt of cloth. Not sure I love it as much on. I’ll wear it a couple times this week and see if I feel like a sportscaster.
 

FriendCustomer

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View attachment 30286
Added some length to the jacket and made the lapels a little wider. I loved the color as a bolt of cloth. Not sure I love it as much on. I’ll wear it a couple times this week and see if I feel like a sportscaster.
when lengthening a jacket and broadening the lapels, i would also consider lowering the the buttoning point a bit. Also whats going on with the buttons? sleeve ones look black and front buttons look white.
 
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Buitenlander

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when lengthening a jacket and broadening the lapels, i would also consider lowering the the buttoning point a bit. Also whats going on with the buttons? sleeve ones look black and front buttons look white.
0CCF557E-5D38-42C2-8316-B704271B3E9A.jpeg

Ha, do contrasting buttons exist? I bet it does, I’ll look on Friday when I’m at a bar. They are mop. Look different in the light.
I asked him about the buttoning point. When I asked him to add some length he took out his tape, measured and said ok. Did the same with the lapels. When I asked about the buttons he measured and shook his head. Said it was good where it was. I took his word for it. I’ll push him on it when I go back. Every tailor I have been to in Italy wants high buttoning points. Is that something you have to talk about every time?
 

Jupiter

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View attachment 30307
Ha, do contrasting buttons exist? I bet it does, I’ll look on Friday when I’m at a bar. They are mop. Look different in the light.
I asked him about the buttoning point. When I asked him to add some length he took out his tape, measured and said ok. Did the same with the lapels. When I asked about the buttons he measured and shook his head. Said it was good where it was. I took his word for it. I’ll push him on it when I go back. Every tailor I have been to in Italy wants high buttoning points. Is that something you have to talk about every time?
The buttoning point is supposed to be calculated according to your morphology and height. It's part of some universal measurements rules. It's difficult to judge if the buttoning point on your jacket is really that high given the angle of the photo in the mirror. How do you feel it?

Strange impuntura on the patch pocket. I've never seen this feature elsewhere.
 
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Scherensammler

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The buttoning point is supposed to be calculated according to your morphology and height.
Natural waist calculation: 1/4 body height for the waist line in your draft, measured from the nape (the vertebrae that sticks out a little at your neck).
Depending on style this can go up or down a bit for a classical jacket.
There is also a way to "feel" the waist, independent from the figure (skinny or fat): Move your thumb down the spine. Around the waist there is a pressure point which, when you hit it right, makes everyone react and move slightly forward.
 

Jupiter

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Natural waist calculation: 1/4 body height for the waist line in your draft, measured from the nape (the vertebrae that sticks out a little at your neck).
Depending on style this can go up or down a bit for a classical jacket.
There is also a way to "feel" the waist, independent from the figure (skinny or fat): Move your thumb down the spine. Around the waist there is a pressure point which, when you hit it right, makes everyone react and move slightly forward.
That's what I meant.
 

Jupiter

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Received this beast from Tofani yesterday in a 750 gr Fox navy flannel. Super heavy, super sharp, super strong. Great proportions, balance and finishing, top customer service. Very happy with them. A bit hot for a winter cosplay, it'll wait.

DSC_0128.JPG
 

Buitenlander

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First test of the houndstooth Harrison’s Thistle. Will be a couple c longer. 1 c wider in the chest. It fits good now but as soon as I fill my pockets it will be too tight. Pants were just too tight, going back later today. Ordered an overcoat. Will have a test later this week.
 

The Shooman

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Some work of a local Mystery Tailor.

If the fellow ironed his coat it would look like it was painted on.
Mystery tailor 9.jpg


Clean back.
Mystery tailor 11.jpg

10 year old bespoke coat which really captures the tailor's classic style and painted on fit. Collars always sit against the back of the neck!
Mystery tailor 12 - 10 year old.jpg
 
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