Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

In retrospect, I should have been more suspicious about "of larger build".
But then, men lie about their penOr size all the time!
 
Scherensammler said:
In retrospect, I should have been more suspicious about "of larger build".
But then, men lie about their penOr size all the time!
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I guess your master lets you have the privledge of measuring the inside leg. Probably gives you the alterations on all the shit stained pants too. So jealous.
 
FriendCustomer said:
Bravo, not suprisingly much better answers than Aussie ass crack weirdo Ovlov received over on SF.
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Thought you must have been quoting someone, but didn't realise you were quoting ovlov.

I've noticed quite a few "larger" men wear low-rise trousers so that the waistband sits under their belly. What they should do, of course, is wear properly-fitting trousers that sit up on their waist, but with current trends, it can be difficult to find ready-to-wear trousers like that (and I suppose that there's the psychological component of getting low-rise trousers with a 36" waist versus natural-waist trousers with a 42" waist, too!)
 
FriendCustomer said:
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But thanks anyway bros. Bravo, not suprisingly much better answers than Aussie ass crack weirdo Ovlov received over on SF.
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Alas, I did not bitted your trap, but I legit really want to know what answers you got over there.

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Journeyman said:
Thought you must have been quoting someone, but didn't realise you were quoting ovlov.

I've noticed quite a few "larger" men wear low-rise trousers so that the waistband sits under their belly. What they should do, of course, is wear properly-fitting trousers that sit up on their waist, but with current trends, it can be difficult to find ready-to-wear trousers like that (and I suppose that there's the psychological component of getting low-rise trousers with a 36" waist versus natural-waist trousers with a 42" waist, too!)
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An off-the-shelf solution is the Brooks Brothers Elliott fit, also the German brand Eduard Dressler does some high waisted flannels in the winter. Otherwise, your stuck with low rise hipster pants and that tight bulge around your balls. I imagine Cordings would be there too, but have no experience here.

It's something I would spend money going bespoke if I couldn't get what I wanted.
 
Scherensammler Scherensammler - I don't have a problem with my arse crack showing like FriendCustomer FriendCustomer . Here that option is by law limited to Plumbers and officially trademarked as Plumbers Crack. But I do have a question - if I may...

I have a couple of nice Sportcoats (or as the Americans say Odd Jackets) new unworn, acquired cheaply or for nix, that aren't just right. One is a lovely navy cashmere the other a great grey/brown herringbone light weight city tweed patterned. They need sleeve shortening - no real problem in itself but also I feel they are say 1"- 2.5 cm too long and one is a bit loose across shoulders and chest/waist. Patch pockets so pocket position can be altered if needed.

Over the years I have come to the position - due to bad experiences and perhaps with out much science - that doing more than one alteration to a jacket is not a wise move.

Do you (and anyone else) have a professional position, or any advice, on Too Much Jacket Alterations At Once?
 
fxh said:
I have a couple of nice Sportcoats (or as the Americans say Odd Jackets)
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Sportscoat is actually very American. Only time you hear odd jacket is on the internet. Jacket is more British usage anyway.
 
fxh said:
Do you (and anyone else) have a professional position, or any advice, on Too Much Jacket Alterations At Once?
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You can go as far as stripping a jacket completely, even a RTW one. But in many cases you'll have to live with fowl compromises. Narrowing the shoulders means the armhole gets deeper and bigger, so the sleeve needs altered (and shortened less). Shortening the jacket at the bottom influences the proportions (button and pockets) negatively.
The big question is: Do you have a tailor who can do it and are you willing to pay for all the hours of work going into it?
 
I have a lightly-constructed jacket that was, when I got it, a little too wide in the shoulders. If I remember correctly, rather than taking in the shoulders, my tailor actually took in some fabric at the seam running down the middle of the back, which had the effect of pulling the shoulders in a little and, of course, of taking out the fullness in the back.

It worked very well, but may perhaps be problematic for a more structured jacket (although I really don't know).
 
Monkeyface said:
Ex-VAT, so you can add another 22%...7300 bespoke and 3600 RTW.
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The business had been bought by the Stefano Bemer + Ambrosi venture. They try to compete with Rubinacci on insane prices reserved to Chinese, Russian and Arab parvenus. Apparently the old master Vestrucci doesn't play any significant role in the new business excepted for the marketing of false authenticity. Besides he doesn't take anymore new clients.
 
So given that Ambrosi is involved, can clients expect to wait six months or more for their enormously expensive pents, and then be insulted when they contact him to ask what's happening?
 
Journeyman said:
So given that Ambrosi is involved, can clients expect to wait six months or more for their enormously expensive pents, and then be insulted when they contact him to ask what's happening?
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Of course! That's the rule. As Sartodinapoli mentioned a long time ago: the pleasure is in the pain! These delirious prices are only for deep masochists. They expect to be mistreated. It's the only road to reach the paradise of the true italian handicraftsman.
 
It probably means we've really hit peak menswear. Let's see how long it takes before this bubble bursts. I hope they haven't paid vestrucci too much for his name, otherwise they'll be belly up soon.
 
Thank you, C&A, I also picked that up on the playback. Coat will be sent back to Naples to have the collar shortened. Its a quick fix and I've had to do this a few times. Due to my posture, its often difficult to pick this up during the forward fitting where one is mostly standing still and not moving.

Thank you for your observation.

Unfortunately, I am having issues uploading my latest video as per @Fok+Rambo's explicit statement that they would be most welcome in this thread. I will leave you with a mere still and the accompanying prose until the technological snafu is sorted.

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Today we will speak about the cream dinner jacket. While there are a multitude of appropriate occasions for one, the pinnacle of white tie formality was its original crown purpose.
The Earl of Nottingham Forest is said to be the first to request such a garment so as to separate himself from the plebes and black getups which may be soiled due to manual labor or the lack of wealth enough to maintain a proper wardrobe and staff to keep it in order. Said to have created quite a stir when first worn to an event hosted by King Edward -VIILCL, it went on to gain great popularity amongst royals and aristocratic types across the globe.
With the great 20th century egalitarianism came the desire for the underclass and nouveau riche to dress as proper people. This form of jacket was truly galvanized and popularized when worn by Roger Moore playing the James Bond character in 8pussy. In the decades since, a proper gentleman cannot be with one. Today, I present my bespoke white dinner cream jacket from Sartoria Segreto Napoli in its purest form. In the image, paired with matching trousers for warm weather days which were changed to proper black + whhhhite bow tie for the evening's formal dinner.
Again, the video will be poasted here as soon as is possible but for more details on the history and construction of the jacket, please, see my videos in the Unfunded Liabilities thread where all of my videos are present for your perusal.

Best Sartorial Tidings,

B. Alan Cee
 
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gambit50 said:
Thank you, friend, I also picked that up on the playback. Coat will be sent back to Naples to have the collar shortened. Its a quick fix and I've had to do this a few times. Due to my posture, its often difficult to pick this up during the forward fitting where one is mostly standing still and not moving.

Thank you for your observation.

Unfortunately, I am having issues uploading my latest video as per @Fok+Rambo's explicit statement that they would be most welcome in this thread. I will leave you with a mere still and the accompanying prose until the technological snafu is sorted.

View attachment 24068

Today we will speak about the cream dinner jacket. While there are a multitude of appropriate occasions for one, the pinnacle of white tie formality was its original crown purpose.
The Earl of Nottingham Forest is said to be the first to request such a garment so as to separate himself from the plebes and black getups which may be soiled due to manual labor or the lack of wealth enough to maintain a proper wardrobe and staff to keep it in order. Said to have created quite a stir when first worn to an event hosted by King Edward -VIILCL, it went on to gain great popularity amongst royals and aristocratic types across the globe.
With the great 20th century egalitarianism came the desire for the underclass and nouveau riche to dress as proper people. This form of jacket was truly galvanized and popularized when worn by Roger Moore playing the James Bond character in 8pussy. In the decades since, a proper gentleman cannot be with one. Today, I present my bespoke white dinner cream jacket from Sartoria Segreto Napoli in its purest form. In the image, paired with matching trousers for warm weather days which were changed to proper black + whhhhite bow tie for the evening's formal dinner.
Again, the video will be poasted here as soon as is possible but for more details on the history and construction of the jacket, please, see my videos in the Unfunded Liabilities thread where all of my videos are present for your perusal.

Best Sartorial Tidings,

B. Alan Cee
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You should have given credit to C&A for pointing out the collo. I hear he likes "likes"
 
FriendCustomer said:
Hey guys. Not sure if this is the correct place to post a question but I would think you would all be knowledgeable enough to know the answer.

I just had my first fitting for my first bespoke project with a local tailor. I'm a big guy and therefore always wear a low rise trouser. This always ends up running the risk of showing of a bit of the nefarious 'builder's crack', though it seems to be a problem that varies greatly from trouser to trouser. I noticed when I sat down that there was a little slippage, though for whatever reason I did not raise it with my tailor.

So anyhow my question is, is this something that can be fixed by design? like is it possible to ask my tailor to have a slightly higher rise in the back than the front (which looks fine) or is that a stupid idea? Or is the a way to reshape the seat of the pants to fix this?

Thanks in advance for the help. if there is a more appropriate forum for such a question please let me know.

Cheers
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fxh said:
I'm sure Scherensammler Scherensammler will be along and is a proper person of skill. The old (and new) fishtail trousers are much higher at the back. Most jeans also have a significant difference between back or front.

I'm not suggesting you copy the bloke below but ...
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Scherensammler said:
As can be seen in the picture, the classical high back (fishtail) trousers need to be worn with braces. That allows them to be worn by all figure types.
There are only 2 other options to avoid the trousers showing crack in the back (and avoiding braces), one being a low cut front and a slightly higher cut back worn with a belt, the second one the same cut but with side adjusters.
Out of those 3 options the braces variant is likely the most comfortable (and elegant) one, as it allows the trousers to be worn on the belly and also eliminates the danger of slippage in the back with a flat seat.
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1. WuRST
2. ByTE
3. EVER!!
 
will be meeting my como tailor comming sunday to take delivery of my new dinner suit in top exquisite darren beaman old stock perfect midnight black and a prova for this vintage horse blanket i got through FriendCustomer FriendCustomer

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ConchitaWurst said:
will be meeting my como tailor comming sunday to take delivery of my new dinner suit in top exquisite darren beaman old stock perfect midnight black and a prova for this vintage horse blanket i got through FriendCustomer FriendCustomer

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my como tailor really picked a fancy hotel this time

some small adjustmemts to the dinner suit will be made

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i was very happy how the horse blanket tweed turned out

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ordered some pants. two winter cottons and three guabello flannels

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and a raglan sleeve overcoat in a lp wool cashmere herringbone

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ConchitaWurst said:
my como tailor really picked a fancy hotel this time

some small adjustmemts to the dinner suit will be made

View attachment 25349

i was very happy how the horse blanket tweed turned out

View attachment 25346 View attachment 25347 View attachment 25348

ordered some pants. two winter cottons and three guabello flannels

View attachment 25350 View attachment 25351 View attachment 25352 View attachment 25353 View attachment 25354

and a raglan sleeve overcoat in a lp wool cashmere herringbone

View attachment 25355
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Blue flannel is the sechs.
 
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Fitting yesterday. Minor alterations to the jacket and pants. Vest still needs to be finished.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
my como tailor really picked a fancy hotel this time

some small adjustmemts to the dinner suit will be made

View attachment 25349

i was very happy how the horse blanket tweed turned out

View attachment 25346 View attachment 25347 View attachment 25348

ordered some pants. two winter cottons and three guabello flannels

View attachment 25350 View attachment 25351 View attachment 25352 View attachment 25353 View attachment 25354

and a raglan sleeve overcoat in a lp wool cashmere herringbone

View attachment 25355
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Your Como tailor needs a proper shirtmaker.

You like to meet in your hotel bed old mens?

I guessed so... and you seem verryhappy even!
 
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ConchitaWurst said:
Newc, you sporting your Gassmann links/studs?
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Negative - when I purchased them a while back, either the cufflinks or the studs were out of stock, so I cancelled my entire order. At this point, debating whether or not I should pull the trigger on the Gassmann links/studs.
 
CesareRomiti said:
Avec les pockets au patch?
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Ya I know... I asked tasche a patta but he chose to make tasche a toppa. In 6 months between the basted fitting and the finishing of the jacket the info has been lost. Pure neapolitan "lottery" tailoring. This is also the riskiness of trunk shows with long delays. I need rigor. I'll visit master Oreo directly next summer but I fear he'll also do what he wants and considers the best.
 
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