Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

rdiaz said:
no, straight and crooked is about the neckpoint, doesn't have anything to do with backwards shoulder seam
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Oh no - here we go - you summon the ghosts of Suitscientists past - Manton, Foo etc etc
 
fxh said:
Oh no - here we go - you summon the ghosts of Suitscientists past - Manton, Foo etc etc
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I like suit science. It saves me bucks and is a nice entertainment. Do not underestimate the power of the red pen for marking out pafucked shoulders.
 
fxh said:
You mean the great Crooked vs Straight shoulder debates?
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rdiaz said:
no, straight and crooked is about the neckpoint, doesn't have anything to do with backwards shoulder seam
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As the great suit-scientist and philosopher Immanuel Kant once said, "Out of the crooked cloth of Italian tailoring, no straight thing was ever made".
 
Rdiaz took the picture: in fact it's not so blue but pale pink.

Screenshot_20180209-194524.webp
 
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Hi, posting for the first time here. A bespoke shirt I got made from a Florence based tailor got ridiculously shrunk after 2-3 washes. The first shirt he made was OK, it had other issues but did not shrink. Think it should be fine to ask him to make me a new one ?
 
mw0217 said:
Hi, posting for the first time here. A bespoke shirt I got made from a Florence based tailor got ridiculously shrunk after 2-3 washes. The first shirt he made was OK, it had other issues but did not shrink. Think it should be fine to ask him to make me a new one ?
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Yes, you should
Lets see what he will say
Any neapolitan shirtmaker would say things like:
You have been bodybuilding
You have gotten fat
You are pregnant
Its supposed to fit like that

Good luck
 
CesareRomiti said:
Yes, you should
Lets see what he will say
Any neapolitan shirtmaker would say things like:
You have been bodybuilding
You have gotten fat
You are pregnant
Its supposed to fit like that

Good luck
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Thanks for that, I’ll carry the other shirt he made as a proof
 
I am new here so not sure if names are ok to post. In any case, very happy with the service I received.

I registered last time and by chance had a username similar to someone else’s which was pointed out in the most polite manner!
 
mw0217 said:
I am new here so not sure if names are ok to post. In any case, very happy with the service I received.

I registered last time and by chance had a username similar to someone else’s which was pointed out in the most polite manner!
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Absolutely OK to post top top arthisans' names.

Also verri important to mention how many hand passes/manipulations to make your shirt.

Everything is compared to the SartoStandard™ of construction so we must know details
 
mw0217 said:
I am new here so not sure if names are ok to post. In any case, very happy with the service I received.

I registered last time and by chance had a username similar to someone else’s which was pointed out in the most polite manner!
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names are ok to post. whether you choose to is up to you. some of us love Italian tailoring and really do appreciate the open exchange of relevant information on the subject.

ah yes, you were the other InstaHate :cheers:and I was the polite poster.:hi:
 
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I was reading this thread when I found this beautiful jacket made with a nice Solaro fabric. The most shocking thing about this jacket are in the backstitch of the lining and the tip of the flap. A good tailor would take care of these details in this way. Compare both pictures.


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Enrico Cuccia said:
View attachment 28527 View attachment 28526


I was reading this thread when I found this beautiful jacket made with a nice Solaro fabric. The most shocking thing about this jacket are in the backstitch of the lining and the tip of the flap. A good tailor would take care of these details in this way. Compare both pictures.


View attachment 28528

View attachment 28529
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Wow thats hell of a difference, it takes a real aficionado to feel these “fine” things! Kudos, caballero!
 
I have no idea if the owner of the jacket is in this thread. I don't want my comment about it bother anyone. I just found it interesting and open a debate.
 
Enrico Cuccia said:
View attachment 28527 View attachment 28526


I was reading this thread when I found this beautiful jacket made with a nice Solaro fabric. The most shocking thing about this jacket are in the backstitch of the lining and the tip of the flap. A good tailor would take care of these details in this way. Compare both pictures.


View attachment 28528

View attachment 28529
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that is what we call Sprezza Napoletano, not to be confused with the real thing which is called @sprezza.spain (since 2016).
 
ConchitaWurst said:
what about the labels?
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this i can explain for you. the olde maestro was about to sew in Orginal Solaro labels from Smith Woollens, when he realized it was caccioppoli uncloth, he proceed to vomit and take mass drop in the attic. thereby providing the ancient london shrunk tissue residing there with an authentic patina and scent, impossible to mask with even the most potent juices. those extinct tissues are now in my possession.
 
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I don't like the shoulder expression at all.
It's probably a technically good and comfortable fit but looking at it, it looks like you wouldn't be able to raise your arms (though you probably can without any discomfort, I just mean that's what it looks like)
 
rdiaz said:
I don't like the shoulder expression at all.
It's probably a technically good and comfortable fit but looking at it, it looks like you wouldn't be able to raise your arms (though you probably can without any discomfort, I just mean that's what it looks like)
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My arms are fused in this position, so all good .
 
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