Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

[fxh]

I've never seen an American use a knife and fork properly anyway. They cut stuff up like little kids then transfer the fork to the right hand and shovel it in!

 

[MFDoom]

hey, it gets in there - most of the time, anyway.

 

[FriendCustomer]

oldies but goodies, some of the greatest posts ever made in the history SF :

Originally Posted by Tibor wrote:

Hgalek, You sir are a jealous arrogant idiot. He is turning 40 and could easily pass for 25, not to mention he is married to a drop dead gorgeous wife. PRO TIP come to SD and say things like "Hitting puberty might help though" around me and the people I know; on my mothers life I could make one phone call and send you back to puberty with your balls cut off and stuffed in your face, later to be found in a ditch on the outskirts of Tijuana by Polica Federal. No joke, have respect for everybody and yourself or deal with the consequences of your actions. That is grown man talk so handle your business accordingly..

Originally Posted by Tibor wrote:

I worked as a public saftey officer patrolling public property and enforcing the califorina penal code system for a semi-public managment corportation that administers my community of Little Italy. I was never a peace officer just an enforcer sometimes in uniform for my nieghbohhod Little Italy as the DA, SDPD, the local Sicilians, Neapolitans and Chaldeans gave me the go ahead to do what it takes to keep our community safe and my salary was paid by the local Catholic Church: Our Lady of the Rosary.

there is also a great one of him in white tie at a taco stand but I can't find the photo.

 

[Arnathor]

Tibor seems like the sort of guy who would actually uphold his oath, i.e. he'd be a constitutional cop. But, I'm purely speculating. LKP , do you think he is corruption rich?

 

[FriendCustomer]

found it : Taco Tuesdays

 

[Arnathor]

This man must be in deep with Cosa Nostra. Don't tell Fok or Tira, his head might explode.

 

[Arnathor]

I was never a peace officer just an enforcer

 

[Algernon Crisp]

You have to hand it to him, he wears it with a lot of style.

 

[Arnathor]

hear hear.

 

[Thruth]

 

[Journeyman]

You have to hand it to him, he wears it with a lot of style.

He does. Unfortunately, he appears to have been born a little over a century too late, but I've got to admire his determination.

He should get in touch with Matt Deckard, if he hasn't already or, at the very least, try to emulate him. Matt used to have an MTO business making vintage-style, repro-clothing and he also had a thing for hats. He ended up being employed by Stetson as a hat designer.

 

[prince nez]

Is Matt Deckard a replicant? Roy Batty knew.

 

[Journeyman]

Is Matt Rick Deckard a replicant? Roy Batty knew.

Depends on whether you go by the original book (Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?) or the movie.

In the book, he's not. In the film, it appears that he could well be. I haven't seen the Director's Cut, but people I know who've seen it have said that Ridley Scott makes it clearer in the DC that Deckard's a replicant.

 

[LKP]

Tibor seems like the sort of guy who would actually uphold his oath, i.e. he'd be a constitutional cop. But, I'm purely speculating. LKP , do you think he is corruption rich?

Poor as a dog

 

[foxandhound]

I usually dislike these very saturated blue shirts, but in this case I think it works. I think it compliments the suit well and the regimental tie, which isn't an obvious choice, caps off what is a great summer look.

Bonus points for:

- Actually wearing socks.
- Embracing the wrinkles.
- A watch whose size looks elegant rather than gaudy.

Nitpicks:

- I'm unsure of the technical term (cut against the bias???) for the way the shoulder is cut, but it looks awful on most people in real life. My tailor has this type of shoulder as their standard and I always make sure to request that they don't do this on any of my commissions. Interestingly, his sons don't opt for this type of shoulder either. However, a visit to their atelier gives one a chance to see lots of examples in the wild and it's left me less than impressed. I'd be interested to hear some of my fellow DW members' thoughts on the matter.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I'm unsure of the technical term (cut against the bias???) for the way the shoulder is cut, but it looks awful on most people in real life.

Since he's seated I can't quite make out the shoulder type. More pics of the issue would be helpful.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

I usually dislike these very saturated blue shirts, but in this case I think it works. I think it compliments the suit well and the regimental tie, which isn't an obvious choice, caps off what is a great summer look.

Bonus points for:

- Actually wearing socks.
- Embracing the wrinkles.
- A watch whose size looks elegant rather than gaudy.

Nitpicks:

- I'm unsure of the technical term (cut against the bias???) for the way the shoulder is cut, but it looks awful on most people in real life. My tailor has this type of shoulder as their standard and I always make sure to request that they don't do this on any of my commissions. Interestingly, his sons don't opt for this type of shoulder either. However, a visit to their atelier gives one a chance to see lots of examples in the wild and it's left me less than impressed. I'd be interested to hear some of my fellow DW members' thoughts on the matter.

Since we're nitpicking:

Needs a pocket handkerchief.
Turn ups a bit deep for me.
Would prefer cuff links.
The back blade looks longer than the front, although only slightly.

But overall he looks very good. You're right about the blue, it works perfectly there.

 

[foxandhound]

Here are a few photos of what I mean. Notice how the seam on the shoulder appears to have a coathangeresque line to it. I believe it may have been a staple of a lot of A&S suits a couple of decades ago.

When I have a bit more time, I'll try and find some better pictures but hopefully this illustrates what I'm talking about.

Since he's seated I can't quite make out the shoulder type. More pics of the issue would be helpful.

 

[Monkeyface]

That kind of shoulder looks great on people with straight and relatively broad shoulders. Not so good on sloped and narrow shoulders.

 

[fxh]

That kind of shoulder looks great on people with straight and relatively broad shoulders. Not so good on sloped and narrow shoulders.

"Mr N Oodles to the white phone at the desk in the foyer - an important message for you."

 

[LKP]

Since we're nitpicking:

Needs a pocket handkerchief.
Turn ups a bit deep for me.
Would prefer cuff links.
The back blade looks longer than the front, although only slightly.

But overall he looks very good. You're right about the blue, it works perfectly there.

How very idiotic feedback

 

[ConchitaWurst]

Since we're nitpicking:

Needs a pocket handkerchief.
Turn ups a bit deep for me.
Would prefer cuff links.
The back blade looks longer than the front, although only slightly.

But overall he looks very good. You're right about the blue, it works perfectly there.

pocket handkerchief with linen or coton suit only for igents

pocket handkerchief, unless white linen, only for non serious business or if you are prince charles

better option is to skip the hanky

 

[LKP]

pocket handkerchief with linen or coton suit only for igents

pocket handkerchief, unless white linen, only for non serious business or if you are prince charles

better option is to skip the hanky

Thank you for explaining my thoughts!

 

[fxh]

I usually dislike these very saturated blue shirts, but in this case I think it works. I think it compliments the suit well and the regimental tie, which isn't an obvious choice, caps off what is a great summer look.

Bonus points for:

- Actually wearing socks.
- Embracing the wrinkles.
- A watch whose size looks elegant rather than gaudy.

Nitpicks:

- I'm unsure of the technical term (cut against the bias???) for the way the shoulder is cut, but it looks awful on most people in real life. My tailor has this type of shoulder as their standard and I always make sure to request that they don't do this on any of my commissions. Interestingly, his sons don't opt for this type of shoulder either. However, a visit to their atelier gives one a chance to see lots of examples in the wild and it's left me less than impressed. I'd be interested to hear some of my fellow DW members' thoughts on the matter.

I dislike the cigarette, the green tie and blue socks.
No pocket hankie is just right.
Since iGentts discovered the pocket hankie they use it like Americans use fat and sugar - too much, on everything and inappropriately
Socks a lighter colour than trousers would be better.

But overall - a good look.

 

[foxandhound]

With verrihappy on hiatus I thought I might try and up the volume on this thread. Although, he did have more of a propensity to post in the disagreeable rather than the agreeable thread more often.

I think the colour of the jacket are a good match. Basics done well. The lapels are on the larger side but they're not at the clavicle hugging height and balance the whole look effectively. The button-down collar has a decent roll to it and the tie is a safe yet effective choice. It does seem a little on the skinny side, but each to his own. Some may quibble that the sleeves are too long, but I'm of the opinion that longer sleeves are the better way to go. Often, the iGent approved 'whatever' cm of shirt cuff showing in the robopose leaves a ridiculous amount showing in day to day movement whilst wearing the jacket. I'd be interested in seeing what shoes he wore with this ensemble. I reckon he didn't screw the pooch on that one given that most of the other outfits he posts online look pretty good with the shoes he's chosen. Overall, this is the security guard done well.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

With verrihappy on hiatus I thought I might try and up the volume on this thread. Although, he did have more of a propensity to post in the disagreeable rather than the agreeable thread more often.

I think the colour of the jacket are a good match. Basics done well. The lapels are on the larger side but they're not at the clavicle hugging height and balance the whole look effectively. The button-down collar has a decent roll to it and the tie is a safe yet effective choice. It does seem a little on the skinny side, but each to his own. Some may quibble that the sleeves are too long, but I'm of the opinion that longer sleeves are the better way to go. Often, the iGent approved 'whatever' cm of shirt cuff showing in the robopose leaves a ridiculous amount showing in day to day movement whilst wearing the jacket. I'd be interested in seeing what shoes he wore with this ensemble. I reckon he didn't screw the pooch on that one given that most of the other outfits he posts online look pretty good with the shoes he's chosen. Overall, this is the security guard done well.

the guy is just another emereken attention whore

 

[ConchitaWurst]

Thank you for explaining my thoughts!

whats the saying, great minds and all that

 

[Grand Potentate]

the guy is just another emereken attention whore

View attachment 7405

So?

 

[Scherensammler]

I'm unsure of the technical term (cut against the bias???) for the way the shoulder is cut, but it looks awful on most people in real life.

I only know it as backward angled shoulder. Standard for English soft tailoring/ drape and most Southern Italian tailors.
It creates problems in the neck area, if the actual shoulder line is completely behind the natural shoulder line. Usually tailors use a formula to calculate the back neck (or they just measure it on the customer), but some folks just use a standard size that is significantly smaller.
The main problem with that is that the front part needs to go around the neck to meet the back, and most tailors/ coat makers struggle to get that right without causing distortions or stretching it out.
The backward angle of the shoulder seam makes it also harder to make room for the shoulder bone in the canvas. That's why you see so many guys with sloping/ forward shoulders having those ripples in the shoulders of their Italian style jackets.
The natural position of a shoulder seam is best placed along the ridge created by a main muscle going from the neck to the shoulder bone:

As you can see, there is a hollow area just in front of the shoulder bone.
The rear shoulder is a bit longer (big muscle), that's why the rear shoulder of a pattern is usually a bit longer (ca. 1cm) than the front. This amount needs to be fulled in to give the anatomically correct shape.

The more the shoulder seam angles backwards or is placed behind the "natural" line, the less fullness is in the shoulder seam to make the jacket sit nice.

(Apologies for the rather technical excursion)

 

[Algernon Crisp]

How very idiotic feedback

pocket handkerchief with linen or coton suit only for igents

pocket handkerchief, unless white linen, only for non serious business or if you are prince charles

better option is to skip the hanky

Wrong and wrong.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

Thank you for explaining my thoughts!

This doesn't explain your thoughts. Possible explanations are:

1. Dementia.
2. Intoxication.
3. Mental dilapidation due to advanced syphilis.

 

[Algernon Crisp]

No pocket hankie is just right.
Since iGentts discovered the pocket hankie they use it like Americans use fat and sugar - too much, on everything and inappropriately

But overall - a good look.

It matters not what they do. Hitler's embrace of the autobahn is not an argument against roads.

 

[foxandhound]

I only know it as backward angled shoulder. Standard for English soft tailoring/ drape and most Southern Italian tailors.
It creates problems in the neck area, if the actual shoulder line is completely behind the natural shoulder line. Usually tailors use a formula to calculate the back neck (or they just measure it on the customer), but some folks just use a standard size that is significantly smaller.
The main problem with that is that the front part needs to go around the neck to meet the back, and most tailors/ coat makers struggle to get that right without causing distortions or stretching it out.
The backward angle of the shoulder seam makes it also harder to make room for the shoulder bone in the canvas. That's why you see so many guys with sloping/ forward shoulders having those ripples in the shoulders of their Italian style jackets.
The natural position of a shoulder seam is best placed along the ridge created by a main muscle going from the neck to the shoulder bone:

As you can see, there is a hollow area just in front of the shoulder bone.
The rear shoulder is a bit longer (big muscle), that's why the rear shoulder of a pattern is usually a bit longer (ca. 1cm) than the front. This amount needs to be fulled in to give the anatomically correct shape.

The more the shoulder seam angles backwards or is placed behind the "natural" line, the less fullness is in the shoulder seam to make the jacket sit nice.

(Apologies for the rather technical excursion)

Thanks for the explanation. Monkeyface whilst you do protest, in real life this looks like someone is twisting someone from the back of the neck and if there's any type of collar gap it exacerbates hugely. It looks like someone has a deformity in the shoulder region. Given the examples I posted, on the typical Korean body type (either: Big head, short neck, long body and and incredibly short yet stocky legs, or rake thin and pathetically slight shoulders) it looks terrible. I'd also be interested to know, on how many Oxbridge rowing squad members you see around London rocking this look successfully? Given that it's only through bespoke that you'd achieve such a look. If you can show me more than a few examples on a few different body types where it looks good, then I'd be prepared to eat my hat. Otherwise I think you're talking a fair amount of shite to be perfectly honest.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

Wrong and wrong.

shame, you had such a promising start here a few weeks ago

 

[ConchitaWurst]

It matters not what they do. Hitler's embrace of the autobahn is not an argument against roads.

as a sarto fanboi hitlers embrace of the autobahn should actually be the one and only argument for roads. ask him a copy of mein kampf if you havent already read it

 

[Monkeyface]

Thanks for the explanation. Monkeyface whilst you do protest, in real life this looks like someone is twisting someone from the back of the neck and if there's any type of collar gap it exacerbates hugely. It looks like someone has a deformity in the shoulder region. Given the examples I posted, on the typical Korean body type (either: Big head, short neck, long body and and incredibly short yet stocky legs, or rake thin and pathetically slight shoulders) it looks terrible. I'd also be interested to know, on how many Oxbridge rowing squad members you see around London rocking this look successfully? Given that it's only through bespoke that you'd achieve such a look. If you can show me more than a few examples on a few different body types where it looks good, then I'd be prepared to eat my hat. Otherwise I think you're talking a fair amount of shite to be perfectly honest.

Lol, why oxford rowing squad members specifically? They're mostly lanky dudes.

There are plenty of examples on SF where it looks nice. A&S cut their shoulders like that, and it looks very nice. Go look at pics of HRH the PoW. But of course you know more about suits than prince Charles or Savile Row tailors?

 

[ConchitaWurst]

So?

so i cant semi objectively look at any of his fits

 

[Grand Potentate]

so i cant semi objectively look at any of his fits

Fair enough. But even an attention whore can put together a nice outfit.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

Fair enough. But even an attention whore can put together a nice outfit.

fair enough. but i cant see it

 

[Algernon Crisp]

shame, you had such a promising start here a few weeks ago

You're absolutely right. Just look at well-known igent Bela Lugosi making a fool of himself on SF last week.

This craze for wearing pocket handkerchiefs with a linen suit, invented in 2012 by igents, has gone too far.