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Thruth

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So someone commented to me that a city suit should not have turnups... Can anyone explain the difference between city and country? Is this just formal vs informal?
I was taught that if pleated, cuffs. But iGents cuff everything. City vs country? think brown. brown is for farmer. tweed suit. Or a suit that would be out of place in the most uptight of business settings. Like wherever Fwiffo works. He would not know a country suit if it bit him on the ass.
 
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Untermensch

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I was taught that if pleated, cuffs. But iGents cuff everything. City vs country? think brown. brown is for farmer. tweed suit. Or a suit that would be out of place in the most uptight of business settings. Like wherever Fwiffo works. He would not know a country suit if it bit him on the ass.
If you're going to take that approach, do whatever you wish. When in Rome etc.
 

Dropbear

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I bought this Abraham Moon gun check at the end of last season and absolutely love the fabric. I thought I could live with the fit (40Slim when I’m a 40LongSlim), but the more I wear it the more I feel it’s just not good. Too short, too boxy in the torso as a result.

Do I keep it or sell it?

9BFDD36D-75D4-4218-A203-C633809A21B4.jpeg
 

Thruth

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I bought this Abraham Moon gun check at the end of last season and absolutely love the fabric. I thought I could live with the fit (40Slim when I’m a 40LongSlim), but the more I wear it the more I feel it’s just not good. Too short, too boxy in the torso as a result.

Do I keep it or sell it?

View attachment 31262
You can have it altered to lose the boxiness but if its short in the ass you don't have much choice other than to sell it, donate it or bin it.
 

Dropbear

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Well that was easy. I just sold it for the $300 I paid for it. Now I decide if I want another gun check winter jacket or start thinking about another summer weight sports coat.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I bought this Abraham Moon gun check at the end of last season and absolutely love the fabric. I thought I could live with the fit (40Slim when I’m a 40LongSlim), but the more I wear it the more I feel it’s just not good. Too short, too boxy in the torso as a result.

Do I keep it or sell it?

View attachment 31262
We've all been there and done that.
 

Untermensch

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All right. Here goes. How does one press a jacket? I've scoured the t'Interwebs and pored over the instructional videos (yes, including Crompers's), but the t'Interwebs seems to be full of contradicting advice: use steam to get the creases out, use no steam, steam will blow the seams, don't do it, do it, do it this way, no, do it that way, and my brain has now exploded.

I just need to freshen up the damn thing at the back, around the vents etc., where the fabric crumples as I sit on my prominent builder's seat. And perhaps touch up the front quarters and the sleeves. I'm not touching the shoulders.
 

formby

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^
When I need one of my suits/sports coats cleaning and/or pressing my tailor de jour handles it. I do not trust dry cleaners with the pressing of bespoke jackets.
 

fxh

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It’s pretty easy to touch up your own stuff. Learn the difference between ironing and pressing. Get a solid flat surface. Get a decent pressing/ironing cloth.. the back of an old thick cotton shirt with do, or and old white t shirt or best a big bit of thick linen.
 

Dropbear

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When did gorges start rising?

Ten years ago, you could spot a thrifted jacket over something new pretty quickly. Two buttons, slim lapels, short length and sleeves, very fitted, less shoulder padding and lining, etc. now that the pendulum is swinging back, the gorge seems to be the biggest tell that you are wearing grandpa’s old jacket and not the latest trendy iGent brand.
 

doghouse

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I don't trust them either. I do it myself.
Thomas Mahon's videos are pretty good overall, just Google them, they are on Youtube.

The main things to look after are a press cloth for dark fabric, and care around shaped areas. A lot of your jacket shape come from stretching the cloth with an iron, and you can take it out if you get over zealous. Certain parts of the sleeves, and front darts especially. Do not just wantonly steam under any circumstances, you can wreck something quick. You make steam by wetting your press cloth or dauber and then pressing with iron. It will localize steam where you want it and not shoot all over.

Other than that, just press and dont iron. As you get more comfortable you can work the whole jacket, it's really not super difficult, just takes time to get a feel for working with the cloth.
 

Untermensch

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So, er, no new info out there. I knew about Thomas Mahon's videos.

It's the lightly-canvassed jackets made out of softer fabrics that are hardest. I've done both unlined and heavily-canvassed, and the results were pretty good. Oh well, I'll keep looking.

Since you've been so helpful, may I share I trick with you chaps. Use a scouring pad (like Scotch Brite) instead of a brass brush to clean and revive your suede shoes. Go lightly, and it works like a charm.

Use it on crepe soles, and they'll come out looking like new. Try it.
 

doghouse

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So, er, no new info out there. I knew about Thomas Mahon's videos.

It's the lightly-canvassed jackets made out of softer fabrics that are hardest. I've done both unlined and heavily-canvassed, and the results were pretty good. Oh well, I'll keep looking.
Really, what's in the various video is all there is to it, I don't think finding any other video is really going to help any. You could probably ask your tailor for tips, but it's just practice mostly once you have the basics.

I assume you have a proper sleeve board, not one of those tiny ones, a good iron, press cloth, dobbie, ham etc... Proper equipment makes it much easier.

Light fabric is definitely more difficult, it's really about proper technique at that point. No real secrets unfortunately.
 

fxh

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What doggie said. The main thing is understanding the difference between ironing and pressing. The equipment you can bodgy up or hack yourself if you are half handy. I have a cheap plastic spray bottle for water that can just produce a mist if wanted. Mist onto the material you are presssing and use a ironing cloth. Not much more to it except a bit of practice, commonsense and caution.
 

fxh

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Indeed it is. FWIW, I think their cords are their best product by far. I wear mine all the time. My go to Sunday night lounging around pants they are so comfortable.

Merry Christmas my friend!
Yeah - back at ya for the good wishes. Just had 3 days and 700 ks of 3 lots of relos xmas. Survived. In recovery mode now. I controlled myself and only had like one argument {{Note:: I did lots of discreet eye rolling and all the others know to avoid arguing sport with me as they consider me an unaustralian weirdo on that score}} and then it was relatively benign - about standard deviations, normal curve and average, mean, mode and median. I think I won and it was with an engineer nephew.
 

fxh

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Indeed it is. FWIW, I think their cords are their best product by far. I wear mine all the time. My go to Sunday night lounging around pants they are so comfortable.
Sunday night pants?? - The fly opens easily?

I like cords - especially in these slouchy non formal times. I like small (ish) wale for Smart Casual - Frog Pockets for preference but 5 pockets is more achievable. I hate cord that attracts fluff and has weak washed out colours. Cordings is the only place I know that the website has a pretty bloody good representation of the colours.
 

Lumpen

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Are we a social experiment where most +40 men turned ghey after being expossed into their childhood to subliminal ghey beard, bondage, S & M ,leather, steroids and fisting toys as He-Man and the Masters of the Universe?
fisting .jpg
 

Dropbear

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Boxing Day sale, though I already bought this in green as well as a similarly coloured camel jacket, probably my last chance to get it in my size and cheap. I’m still on the fence:

0AA08075-6C1A-4632-8E5C-58904110345E.jpeg
 

Untermensch

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Let's talk about Albert Thurston braces. The manufacturer's online shop is shoite, and there is no brick-and-mortar shop. Quite a few brands sell them under their own name, only they don't say so. Including the likes of TM Lewin, although they no longer do.

So where do you chaps buy your braces?
 

Lumpen

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Let's talk about Albert Thurston braces. The manufacturer's online shop is shoite, and there is no brick-and-mortar shop. Quite a few brands sell them under their own name, only they don't say so. Including the likes of TM Lewin, although they no longer do.

So where do you chaps buy your braces?

In the same leather shop as He-Man and Thruth does, on the Dungeon of Disease.nl
 

Dropbear

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I think I know the answer already, but I’ll ask:

Cuff or no cuff on summer linen dress trousers? These aren’t beach pants or anything like that.
 

Dropbear

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Soaps would have to be better than alcohol-based cleaners.

I don't see why you couldn't wash it with soap. At worst you're just going to have to re-wax when done.

Maybe hit the affected area first with a hairdryer to melt the wax and then wipe that off - the puke shouldn't me in the fabric, just the wax. Then decide if you need to do any further cleaning or just apply fresh wax. to the spot.
 

Thruth

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Is a tie usually 3 inches wide? What’s the normal width?

What are the length ranges for height?
Depends on how big or small you are and the width of your lapels. Tie and lapels should be close in width. Not exactly the same is fine. quarter inch +/-

3 inches is on the slim side for regular folks unless you are an Ivy acolyte where you might select a 2 7/8 (check out Ask Andy and some of the specific widths quoted) or a 3, "although Drakes is flogging 7cm ties which tie makers will cheat up and call a 3" inch tie. 3.25" (8cm) is skinny for some but Brooks Brothers classic lapels match this. 3.5" - 3.75" is iGent comfort zone. 9 to 9.5 cm.

tie and lapels should be close in width. not exactly the same is fine. quarter inch +/-

57"/58" length is your average tie length for the average man but it really does depend on your torso length. If you are over 6 feet tall you should be looking at long ties 60" + (62" is a popular tall man's length). If you have a neck over 17" or a big belly you need to look at long ties too. Under 5'7" you may need to consider a shorter tie than normal.

If you are buying ties from Johnny Cacarutti in an especially unique Neapolitan couch fabric with many years on its shoulders you may want a longer length because thick tissue ties tie shorter.
 
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