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Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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What’s Nudie’s high rise straight cut?
here is Nudies selection of straight denim

https://www.nudiejeans.com/selection/straight-leg-jeans#page=2

you should check out Left Field NYC's denim. The Greaser cut. Their version of 501's. Semi-high rise in the 11 inch range, straight fit, slight leg taper. Their Chelsea for a slimmer thigh. The Atlas for same top block as the Greaser but with a bit of taper from knee to leg opening.

https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/greaser
 

Pauly Chase

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I think Grim Tim has a decent rise, maybe not high rise.

Rag Bone RB15 might be the fit you are looking for.
 

Dropbear

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Does the gorge on this J Press jacket date it too much? Does it look too eBay/thrift shop or is that a detail no one would notice?

56368FA4-B426-454C-A6C5-844CB7A28342.png
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Does the gorge on this J Press jacket date it too much? Does it look too eBay/thrift shop or is that a detail no one would notice?

View attachment 32035
Not really. No one is really going to notice. We won't judge you. The buttoning point is also not bad at all for vintage. J Press is still making them like this maybe with a slightly higher gorge.

Screen Shot 2019-05-04 at 10.35.03 AM.png
 

Dropbear

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^
That’s kinda what I was afraid of, reading the measurements - looks short and boxy
 

fxh

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Does the gorge on this J Press jacket date it too much? Does it look too eBay/thrift shop or is that a detail no one would notice?

View attachment 32035
Looks OK. Its not even that low. If you are worried about it - it will look better the less dressed up it is. Eg no tie - open necked shirt, floppy OCBD not stiff spread collar shirts, twill/moleskin/chino/cord trousers etc.

Not jeans. I do not approve of SC with jeans
 

Dropbear

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This is the summer I've embraced linen. I've bought a bunch of pure linen trousers and some linen and linen-cotton shirts. I'm about done with summer purchases with the exception of another extreme heat sports coat.

Thoughts on a casual cream linen jacket like this? Too Roger Moore James Bond or Miami Vice?




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aristoi bcn

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No, I like it and I will have something made next year. But finding the perfect shade of off-white is difficult. Not white. Not cream. Neither oatmeal nor natural. Preferably in a weight of 280g rather than the 380g from W.Bill and in a plain wave.

I want exactly this (100 years back it was probably off-white rather than light cream):

 

Journeyman

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I've got a jacket (actually a suit, but I usually wear it as separates) that is in a sort of pale sand colour. The colour is hard to describe but it's basically in between the colour of the two jackets in the two posts above.

The jacket looks great with blue or navy trousers, and the trousers look great with a blue or navy jacket.
 

Dropbear

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Thanks. They are also selling these two suits, but I think I’ll order the cream jacket above tonight.
6E58DEC3-E610-465E-AF58-F1339444EF6E.jpeg
4D6F5443-0B67-4F0C-8703-C5EC9E25029F.jpeg

Kinda bummed out now that I missed the cigar jacket to match the trousers I already have:

D5FB334F-2C5C-4CA2-B342-CD74D1ED9874.jpeg
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Linen jackets are a bit retrograde, unless of course you want that ruffled worn and creased look. The linen wool/silk/cotton mixes are optimum for me. All the benefits of linen without the creases and short working life of a linen jacket.

When it comes to cream jackets, I always factor in the risk that you are only ever one red wine splash or Italian/Indian meal away from it being ruined. So a couple of hundred Euros max for OTP one.
 

Dropbear

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Putting aside construction and all other factors, what would be the coolest wearing fabric for a summer sport coat? I’m thinking a light cotton seersucker would be cooler than linens or an open weave wool, but maybe not?
 

QuandoDio

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I don't think there is a coolest wearing fabric for a summer SC. That is a unicorn.

But IMO, Wool-Linen in the lightest possible weight - though will tailor badly.

I don't find cotton seersucker that warm tbh. Though others do.
 

Untermensch

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If you put aside construction and other factors, then all natural fibres are equally cool. The property which determines how 'cool' the fabric feels is the thermal conductivity. The difference between the thermal conductivity of cotton, wool, linen, and silk fibres is minimal.

Now the weave does change the thermal conductivity because of the air trapped between the fibres. It also changes the water absorption properties of the material, which changes the way it feels (cool or not), even when the sorption of the fibres may be the same. But you said to put aside all other factors.
 

fxh

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Putting aside construction and all other factors, what would be the coolest wearing fabric for a summer sport coat? I’m thinking a light cotton seersucker would be cooler than linens or an open weave wool, but maybe not?
The coolest is a short sleeve shirt and NO jacket
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I thought the cool properties of linen only worked above a certain temperature? Below that it doesn't work. Of course weight comes into it as well, also colour.

There's plenty of new jacket and suit cloths with various grades of summer, heat and ultra violet protection. I was thinking of getting something made up this season, as I'm bit like Elvis Costello, Jake and Elwood, I like to keep my jacket on unless I'm sitting down. But now I think next year.
 

Untermensch

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I was thinking of getting something made up this season, as I'm bit like Elvis Costello, Jake and Elwood, I like to keep my jacket on unless I'm sitting down. But now I think next year.
Yes, one always looks better in a jacket. I thought perhaps an unlined jacket by a cheapo bespoke tailor. Since it'll be casual I won't mind the imperfections, and the absence of lining and structure will make his job much easier and keep costs down. I don't like the boxiness of most RTW summer jackets, and I don't like the fabric on the unlined ones (it's usually navy wool open weave which snags like a bastard).
 

Dropbear

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Still needs pressing and tailoring, but I think I’ll get a lot of use out of this over summer (if I don’t spill wine and bbq sauce on it):

91CF9E98-E412-4A83-B549-F16D2C9E0B61.jpeg


Everything but my socks and jocks is 100% linen here!
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Putting aside construction and all other factors, what would be the coolest wearing fabric for a summer sport coat? I’m thinking a light cotton seersucker would be cooler than linens or an open weave wool, but maybe not?
I don't think I would wear a seersucker odd jacket. No jacket will ultimately wear cooler. The difference is what looks better. You have more non-ugly options with tropical wools/open weave in terms of colour, pattern and resistance to wrinkling. Wool-linen, wool-silk-linen are options that look better and are less casual looking. That is the reason I've managed to avoid linen suits and odd jackets all these years. They look great in pictures.
 

fxh

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I dunno - I like linen as a suit and as shirts and trousers.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Are modern J Press jackets hipster short now?

I’m looking at two that are in the clearance sale, but the size chart (at least on my phone) gives no information. Looking at the pics, either the sleeves are long or the body is short.

https://jpressonline.com/products/j-press-blue-wool-cotton-honeycomb-jacket-blue

https://jpressonline.com/products/unconstructed-modern-fit-jacket-red-blue-white-plaid
That plaid one tempted me awhile back, surprised it's still left. I find no issues with J.Press sizing i.e. not too small in length in the body or sleeves. The only issues I have is the horrendous import duties imposed by the Dutch customs which seem to be vindictive and arbitrary for anything coming from the States.
 

Dropbear

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That plaid one tempted me awhile back, surprised it's still left. I find no issues with J.Press sizing i.e. not too small in length in the body or sleeves. The only issues I have is the horrendous import duties imposed by the Dutch customs which seem to be vindictive and arbitrary for anything coming from the States.
Thanks.

I’m going to wait to see if customer service get back to me on the length before the sale expires. I’m leaning towards the cotton-wool jacket - looks like it drapes nicely. The pics of the plaid jacket seem really low-res and unflattering. The pattern matching on the chest also pocket isn’t great, but it would certainly fit my current casual summer rumpled linen vibe!
 

Dropbear

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I just called the store and both of those work for me in length. The linen jacket is Made in Canada. The wool-cotton is their Blue Line, which the sales guy said fits slimmer (a plus for me). Now I just have to decide which one. Sale ends today.

JJK0109SA_RED-BLUE_0105_SS17__79680.1493655195.1280.1280_c8afadd9-dfa2-405c-b264-b2346bfe0d01_...jpg
JKJNHM0417_BLUE_0010_SS17__41982.1493917593.1280.1280_fe01b770-ee6d-43a8-bb60-216940c7c49a_700x.jpg
 

Ryan Owens

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I have to recolour some black shoes that I have scuffed to high heaven, but I want to wear them tomorrow at a wedding. I wonder if anyone has ever used ink to dye their shoes back to a normal colour?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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I have to recolour some black shoes that I have scuffed to high heaven, but I want to wear them tomorrow at a wedding. I wonder if anyone has ever used ink to dye their shoes back to a normal colour?
Just get some black cream polish to restore the colour and then use wax polish over that. You have ample time to do that before the wedding and it will look just fine.
 

Ryan Owens

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Just get some black cream polish to restore the colour and then use wax polish over that. You have ample time to do that before the wedding and it will look just fine.
Aye, that's what I've done. They're not quite up to snuff, but they are a cheap pair of bonded leather shoes so I'm not worried too much.
 

Dropbear

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This just restocked in my size. I already have the trousers. I thought I was done with clothes purchases for the year, but $200 to make the suit or for an odd jacket is tempting . Yes or no?

 
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