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ter1413

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This just restocked in my size. I already have the trousers. I thought I was done with clothes purchases for the year, but $200 to make the suit or for an odd jacket is tempting . Yes or no?


Yes....if you can confirm that the trousers and jacket material are from the same batch and actually match.
 

fxh

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This just restocked in my size. I already have the trousers. I thought I was done with clothes purchases for the year, but $200 to make the suit or for an odd jacket is tempting . Yes or no?

Go for it. You could check if its the same number/batch etc as the trousers but even if it isn't that not a big issue with linen.
 

Dropbear

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I need a few beater ties for winter. Silk, patterned (already have too much repp and geo, time for some paisley or floral maybe), 3-3.5”.

I’ve bought knit ties from The Tie Bar before and they were pretty meh. Are their standard ties better? Or, any suggestions in a similar price range?
 

Journeyman

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^How about eBay?

I've bought a number of Brooks Brothers and RL Polo (blue label) ties from eBay. Some were older, some were brand new with tags. I've also bought ties from various other brands, including British brands, usually in printed silk or silk madder.
 

Dropbear

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^How about eBay?

I've bought a number of Brooks Brothers and RL Polo (blue label) ties from eBay. Some were older, some were brand new with tags. I've also bought ties from various other brands, including British brands, usually in printed silk or silk madder.
Good idea. Any other brands you’d suggest to look out for?
 

Pauly Chase

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^How about eBay?

I've bought a number of Brooks Brothers and RL Polo (blue label) ties from eBay. Some were older, some were brand new with tags. I've also bought ties from various other brands, including British brands, usually in printed silk or silk madder.
I have to second this. eBay is your best friend for ties with some great prices if you have the patience to search. I got two silk/wool Borrellis for 15 bucks a pop last year, both NWT.
 

Journeyman

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Good idea. Any other brands you’d suggest to look out for?
If you are looking for printed silk ties in neat patterns, look for brands such as:
- Drake's (nice, but often over-priced);
- Marinella (I have a lot of these and they are very nice);
- Bigi Milano;
- Barney's (depends - they do a lot of woven patterns but I have a couple of nice printed small paisley patterns);
- Paul Stuart;
- J.Press (particularly if you want more "trad" patterns).

There are various other brands but I can't recall them at present.

Have a look for knit ties, too, as knit ties typically look great with more casual outfits. I have a number of really nice, "crunchy" knits that I bought from Ben Silver during a sale years ago (when the AUD was much stronger against the USD), but they're originally made by Sozzi or another European (German?) company that I can't remember - there aren't that many companies that actually make knit ties.
 

Dropbear

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^
Great info, thanks very much!

On a different note: if You saw a tagged 40R J Press tweed jacket on eBay claiming to be a 17” shoulder, would it be fair to assume that was a poor measurement and it’s probably wider? Or is that just my wishful thinking?
 

Untermensch

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I need a few beater ties for winter. Silk, patterned (already have too much repp and geo, time for some paisley or floral maybe), 3-3.5”.

I’ve bought knit ties from The Tie Bar before and they were pretty meh. Are their standard ties better? Or, any suggestions in a similar price range?
And now for some alternatives to the big names:

Poszetka (made in Poland) www.poszetka.com
Embassy of Elegance (made in Poland) https://embassyofelegance.com
H.N. White (made in England) https://www.hnwhite.co.uk
Ardentes Clipei (made in Italy) https://ardentesclipei.com/cat/cravates
 

Pimpernel Smith

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If you're looking for big beefy ties there's no better than Turnbull & Asser, but try and stick to their classics and now that they include the some of the classic ranges in their sales, they're pretty much affordable for a tie that you may well be handing down to the next generation:


The only issue is with the robust construction of T&A ties, in that you need a strong lengthy collar to frame it.
 

yeahokaywhatever

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1 A suit trouser with

double forward pleats
but cuffs

...formal or informal?

2 If pleated trousers must always have cuffs, does that mean pleated trousers are always casual?
 

Journeyman

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If pleated trousers must always have cuffs, does that mean pleated trousers are always casual?
That sounds like some sort of rule that may have existed in the first half of the 20th century. To be frank, if you're wearing a suit nowadays, you're dressed formally. Of course, there are degrees of formality - a tan linen suit is considerably less formal than a dark navy suit made from worsted fabric - but if you're wearing a suit that has pleated trousers with cuffs, you're still dressed formally.
 

Untermensch

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Cuffs are not informal
They are, in the sense that formal = morning dress, black tie, and white tie.

Otherwise, anything goes. Why, just the other day, Crompers was saying that he never commissions trousers sans cuffs and that he can now say 'Buongiorno" in Neapolitan...
 

Dropbear

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My eBay Barbour Border jacket just arrived. Before I start waxing, do you think the sleeves are an ok length or could they go down a half inch?

3535339C-2B90-47F8-BEE8-30E25B26CD81.jpeg
046AF42A-7BBD-482D-A1D3-32F38C7CCD14.jpeg
 

Dropbear

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Try it on w/something other than a shirt. Liner/blazer/jean jacket/light down vest/etc. See how you feel then. That is unless you only will wear with a shirt. Nothing wrong ether way.
The fit is fine - room for a sweater underneath even with the plush shag liner buttoned in. I’m probably over thinking it, but the sleeves might be too short? Or maybe that’s just a product of the wide cuffs.
 

ter1413

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Do post pics with at least 1 of those items. Right now, sleeves look AOK. Maybe a lil short with something underneath other than a shirt.
 

Thruth

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My eBay Barbour Border jacket just arrived. Before I start waxing, do you think the sleeves are an ok length or could they go down a half inch?

View attachment 32493View attachment 32494
What ter1413 says. Throw on a LS shirt or the sweater you will wear and see how much sticks out. Barbour is notorious for short sleeves. These look like they are a bit short for you.
 

Journeyman

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Before I start waxing, do you think the sleeves are an ok length or could they go down a half inch?
Ideally, the sleeves could be slightly longer.

However, because the jacket is made of cotton - waxed cotton, even more so - there will be a clearly visible line where the sleeves originally finished. I suppose that the lines could fade over time, with use and with repeated coats of wax.
 

Untermensch

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Barbour is notorious for short sleeves.
Barbour does the only jackets I can wear straight orf the peg without shortening the sleeves. It's not Barbour that does short sleeves. It's everyone else that does sleeves, in Charlie Croker's words, "for monkeys".
 

Dropbear

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Ideally, the sleeves could be slightly longer.

However, because the jacket is made of cotton - waxed cotton, even more so - there will be a clearly visible line where the sleeves originally finished. I suppose that the lines could fade over time, with use and with repeated coats of wax.
Yeh, they will have to add a piece:
1C50FBC5-769E-48C8-82A1-9E8E084A0B84.jpeg


Lengthen the sleeves
Thank goodness you asked!
One inch?

While they are at it, I guess I’ll get the storm cuffs changed to knit cuffs. This $70 jacket will end up costing twice that to alter, hahah.
 

sirloin

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Nothing wrong with the added piece. It's first when you start to have patches and such, that barbours start to look good.
 

Great White Snark

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Barbours all look shit.
There’s better jackets to keep you warm and/or dry.
Unless you’re a gamekeeper or a cosplay farmer wannabe you can do so much better.
Plus, they stink!
 

fxh

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Barbours all look shit.
There’s better jackets to keep you warm and/or dry.
Unless you’re a gamekeeper or a cosplay farmer wannabe you can do so much better.
Plus, they stink!
I find myself in general agreement even if my comments would be more diplomatic.
 
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