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Thruth

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Thruth Thruth what’s your take on N1 deck jackets? I’ve never handled one, but it looks like something that might work for our winter snow vacations and last longer than the Lands End crap that keeps wearing out. OTOH, seems a bit trendy now and the days of picking one up a nwot ‘Shoreshank Redemption’ jacket at the local surplus store are long gone.
I like them. Good ones are not cheap. Cheap ones have synthetic Sherpa lining instead of wool/alpaca which is a no-go for me just from a performance POV and not being all anal about authentic reproductions.

I think Bob Dong and Bronson have wool linings and you are slender enough to be able to fit their cuts. These two brands are amongst the best of the entry to mid-level ones.

Pike Bros. have a nice repro (waxed) that is cheaper than Buzz and the Real McCoys.
 

Otto

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Thruth Thruth what’s your take on N1 deck jackets? I’ve never handled one, but it looks like something that might work for our winter snow vacations and last longer than the Lands End crap that keeps wearing out. OTOH, seems a bit trendy now and the days of picking one up a nwot ‘Shoreshank Redemption’ jacket at the local surplus store are long gone.
By crap, do you mean their barn coat? I actually just ordered one.... :okay:
 

Dropbear

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By crap, do you mean their barn coat? I actually just ordered one.... :okay:

We live in a warm climate, and just visit the snow for two weeks a year. My wife has bought herself and the kids several LE insulated jackets which haven’t really impressed me - seems they barely last two weeks.

I usually get by with a heavy sweater and short Barbour, but for someone not used to rugging up for the cold it feels super bulky.

I hope your barn coat works out! I think they have a good exchange policy if it doesn’t.
 

doghouse

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We live in a warm climate, and just visit the snow for two weeks a year. My wife has bought herself and the kids several LE insulated jackets which haven’t really impressed me - seems they barely last two weeks.

I usually get by with a heavy sweater and short Barbour, but for someone not used to rugging up for the cold it feels super bulky.

I hope your barn coat works out! I think they have a good exchange policy if it doesn’t.
Quit being a tit and go get some Patagonia
 

Thruth

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I thought Patagonia is mostly worn by tits?
Patagucci is still well made gear. You can’t beat their R1 and R2 as fleece goes. Their softshell ski pants are excellent. Their organic cotton & hemp fabric shirts and pants are well made.
 

Dropbear

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Quit being a tit and go get some Patagonia
I don’t live in the subarctic like Thruth, with his excessively practical and utilitarian gear. I’m looking for something that will do double duty for building snowmen on vacation and the odd cold evening here. Or, more likely, I’ll just continue to make do with what I have.
 

doghouse

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I thought Patagonia is mostly worn by tits?

Probably, but it's still the best gear on earth. Especially since all their competition went cheap, even Arcteryx.

Patagucci is still well made gear. You can’t beat their R1 and R2 as fleece goes. Their softshell ski pants are excellent. Their organic cotton & hemp fabric shirts and pants are well made.

#R1forlife. I've got some Capilene that's approaching 25 years old.

I actually just culled several organic cotton long sleeve shirts for Goodwill. Even being 10 years old they look new. They are actually still in my garage, so free to a good home if anyone wants them.
 

fxh

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I actually just culled several organic cotton long sleeve shirts for Goodwill. Even being 10 years old they look new. They are actually still in my garage, so free to a good home if anyone wants them.
Put them on eBay and tell The Shooman The Shooman they are knitted in the Scottish Isles by old grannies - he'll buy them for $300 each
 

Thruth

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Probably, but it's still the best gear on earth. Especially since all their competition went cheap, even Arcteryx.



#R1forlife. I've got some Capilene that's approaching 25 years old.

I actually just culled several organic cotton long sleeve shirts for Goodwill. Even being 10 years old they look new. They are actually still in my garage, so free to a good home if anyone wants them.
I wore capilene in the Arctic. Solid base layers. I wear a R1 after work from now until spring. their shit does last and last.
 

Thruth

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I don’t live in the subarctic like Thruth, with his excessively practical and utilitarian gear. I’m looking for something that will do double duty for building snowmen on vacation and the odd cold evening here. Or, more likely, I’ll just continue to make do with what I have.
Pattagucci does a deck jacket in organic cotton with synthetic insulation and fleece pile

26996_MJVK_CS1.jpg

26996_MJVK_OPEN.jpg





just bought a Rab Kinder Smock



RAB-QDA-82_7ERust_480x565.jpg


Both will work well for snowmen and cold evenings.
 

Dropbear

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Dear Big Suit Daddies,

I am clueless when it comes to the world of better quality suits and am a wearer of tacky tailors who outsource to China.

I’d like to pick up a lightly used ‘English’ suit: preferably with a ticket and/or hacking pockets in grey or blue.

What are some good brands to save in my search field?
 

doghouse

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Dear Big Suit Daddies,

I am clueless when it comes to the world of better quality suits and am a wearer of tacky tailors who outsource to China.

I’d like to pick up a lightly used ‘English’ suit: preferably with a ticket and/or hacking pockets in grey or blue.

What are some good brands to save in my search field?
So this is a way open ended question. Are you looking for Respoke? Off the peg? What sort of style and cut? Tommy Nutter or Anderson Sheppard?
 

belinmad

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Yes, please do say more. Intent? Budget range? Size? Do standard sizes fit you more or less ok?
 

Dropbear

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Off the peg and more of a beer and pizza budget than champagne. 38R usually works for me as a base to slim.

As for style … I’m imagining some with ‘English’ proportions and structure but preferably a little less stuffy.
 

belinmad

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Off the peg and more of a beer and pizza budget than champagne. 38R usually works for me as a base to slim.

As for style … I’m imagining some with ‘English’ proportions and structure but preferably a little less stuffy.

If sizes are not a problem, I’d go to ebay with “bespoke” in the suits category and see what pops up that catches your eye, and do some research when you find something interesting. That’s how I started, and managed to get decent stuff before I went the tailor way.
 

Dropbear

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If sizes are not a problem, I’d go to ebay with “bespoke” in the suits category and see what pops up that catches your eye, and do some research when you find something interesting. That’s how I started, and managed to get decent stuff before I went the tailor way.

I may even go M2M with Thick as a thieves again, but it’s fun looking for a ‘deal’.

What are some OTR brands to look for, that might come close to what I’m looking for (and have done a bad job of articulating)?

I think I’ve had a search for ‘Dunhill’ (made by Zegna) and ‘ticket pocket’ for a few years that never deliver.
 

belinmad

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Hmmmm, tough one.
Maybe Gieves, dege &skinner, Richard James, Kilgour, Huntsman, Ede & Ravenscroft, Redmayne

Not sure who else does MTM.
 

Rambo

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So this is a way open ended question. Are you looking for Respoke? Off the peg? What sort of style and cut? Tommy Nutter or Anderson Sheppard?
i think he'd work in a vox-esque style A&S job. similar proportions iirc.

38R usually works for me as a base to slim.
how can you only be a 38R you're taller than I am??? do you descend from the tyrannosaurus rex family of humans?
 

doghouse

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Hmmmm, tough one.
Maybe Gieves, dege &skinner, Richard James, Kilgour, Huntsman, Ede & Ravenscroft, Redmayne

Not sure who else does MTM.

Harvie and Hudson do pretty middle of the road British stuff as well
 

Pimpernel Smith

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If sizes are not a problem, I’d go to ebay with “bespoke” in the suits category and see what pops up that catches your eye, and do some research when you find something interesting. That’s how I started, and managed to get decent stuff before I went the tailor way.
Ebay use to be good for T&A, Gieves & Hawkes and Hermes ties. It seems a bit light on those fronts these days.
I may even go M2M with Thick as a thieves again, but it’s fun looking for a ‘deal’.

What are some OTR brands to look for, that might come close to what I’m looking for (and have done a bad job of articulating)?

I think I’ve had a search for ‘Dunhill’ (made by Zegna) and ‘ticket pocket’ for a few years that never deliver.
Cordings will give you the ticket pocket. Their standard three button jacket is not for everyone. That top button sometimes feels like overkill.

When it comes to OTR you need to find a block that works for you with a brand that isn't going to change between seasons and models e.g. Cordings.

Dunhill had some good clothing back in the late 2000's, had a couple of shirts when I was back 15 3/4 neck and great cufflinks of course. Their website looks good, but a warning to me, is when there's no option on length. For sure, that's a sign it will be in boy's sizes and way too short.

J.Press - I've a couple of jackets and a blazer, but the customs costs for me make it suddenly nearly a grand for an OTR jacket. I don't think so. Rate them top notch on OTR front.

I've a number of RL jackets and blazers from outlet villages I've picked-up at outsandingly good prices. Their 44L is generally a great size for me and I don't even have to shorten the sleeve length. But paying €995 for the current RL67 sports jacket is just over priced. But in general, with Ralphy, whilst it's too ubiquitous these days, it's still excellent quality for select items.

Gieves & Hawkes, don't go near. Might still be good for bespoke, but the Chinese ownership has killed it for off the peg. Quality and style, just not there, especially colour schemes.

That wife of the owner of Thick As Thieves has got a bit of a burlesque look about her. Here that look is adopted by queer culture ladies.
Harvie and Hudson do pretty middle of the road British stuff as well
Last time I was on Jermyn Street I wanted to check them out as the store looks really well laid out and jackets are very reasonably priced. But I had to get to London City quick, so missed them. I bought from them late last year some shirts on a reasonable deal, but only one of them is any good. And a bit of an internet search and the same patterns and exact same manufactured shirts could be sourced for €25. So not going to use them again and also no long jacket sizes.
 

Dropbear

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That wife of the owner of Thick As Thieves has got a bit of a burlesque look about her. Here that look is adopted by queer culture ladies.

Yeh. Jason is a sharply dressed and interesting guy. Personally, I’m not really into the female skinhead aesthetic.

48D55A44-0948-4994-97F5-F9E1F453B0FF.jpeg
 

Sauce

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I may even go M2M with Thick as a thieves again, but it’s fun looking for a ‘deal’.
If you have that kinda wonga to splash I'd find a good indie menswear store that offers MTM. Options are large on styling and measurements.

If of course you live somewhere with such a store.
 

Dropbear

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If you have that kinda wonga to splash I'd find a good indie menswear store that offers MTM. Options are large on styling and measurements.

If of course you live somewhere with such a store.

There are a lot of those Indochino type shops around here. Benefit of getting store measured and being able to get the fit tweaked when it arrives from Asia is good, but they don’t really impress me with their fabric selection or construction (lots of fused and a few half canvases options).

I am still leaning towards the TaT charcoal mohair. At $550 it hits all the right boxes. I dig the ‘punk rock’ of suits thing. Would probably go single button. I’m assuming they are still full canvas, though the website doesn’t say that anywhere.

Still, I’m mostly just looking to get this to put on a hanger and be ready for emergencies. So no sense of urgency.
 

belinmad

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There are a lot of those Indochino type shops around here. Benefit of getting store measured and being able to get the fit tweaked when it arrives from Asia is good, but they don’t really impress me with their fabric selection or construction (lots of fused and a few half canvases options).

I am still leaning towards the TaT charcoal mohair. At $550 it hits all the right boxes. I dig the ‘punk rock’ of suits thing. Would probably go single button. I’m assuming they are still full canvas, though the website doesn’t say that anywhere.

Still, I’m mostly just looking to get this to put on a hanger and be ready for emergencies. So no sense of urgency.
I wasn't familiar with TaT, looking at it now.
First is I'd suggest the "traditional cut", stay away from the "house cut" which is basically 1 size too small/short for anyone older than a 14yo.
In the 600 range I'm not sure you'll be able to do much better, I'd still try to find something second hand of better quality.
Also, isn't S&M half canvassed? It's in that price range, no?
 

belinmad

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A cursory look on ebay yields some interesting options... checking measures carefully and with a good alterations tailor, you should be better off quality wise, I think






 

Dropbear

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I wasn't familiar with TaT, looking at it now.
First is I'd suggest the "traditional cut", stay away from the "house cut" which is basically 1 size too small/short for anyone older than a 14yo.
In the 600 range I'm not sure you'll be able to do much better, I'd still try to find something second hand of better quality.
Also, isn't S&M half canvassed? It's in that price range, no?
Hahaha, yes, fxh fxh used to call my old TaT jackets ‘bum freezers’, while even I cringe at the skinny lapels these days. But the trad cut looks a little tamer, while still suiting a slimmer physique and having a little edge to it.

True, OTR S&M starts at a couple hundred for half canvas.
 
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Sauce

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There are a lot of those Indochino type shops around here. Benefit of getting store measured and being able to get the fit tweaked when it arrives from Asia is good, but they don’t really impress me with their fabric selection or construction (lots of fused and a few half canvases options).

I am still leaning towards the TaT charcoal mohair. At $550 it hits all the right boxes. I dig the ‘punk rock’ of suits thing. Would probably go single button. I’m assuming they are still full canvas, though the website doesn’t say that anywhere.

Still, I’m mostly just looking to get this to put on a hanger and be ready for emergencies. So no sense of urgency.
I was thinking that they'd use a MTM service made in Europe. The shop I use has it made in Italy, full canvas. Theres a company called Munro that offer MTM, not sure if its full canvas and I've never used them but I've seen their stuff in a shop and it looked ok.
 

Sauce

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You might find something on Drop93...

 

robertito

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I was thinking that they'd use a MTM service made in Europe. The shop I use has it made in Italy, full canvas. Theres a company called Munro that offer MTM, not sure if its full canvas and I've never used them but I've seen their stuff in a shop and it looked ok.
munro is the company that Patrick Johnson uses if i remember correctly? Made in China and Italy. Not idea about quality. i remember from reading it here https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/08/response-from-p-johnson.html
 

robertito

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A cursory look on ebay yields some interesting options... checking measures carefully and with a good alterations tailor, you should be better off quality wise, I think






too much of a gamble in my opinion. I tried a couple of times too and my experience wasn't worth. Got once a beautiful jacket, perfect measure on paper but designed for somebody 30 kilos heavier than me and with a big pouch. Nobody wanted to alter it as the only alteration possible was through the long front dart and it implied removing the patch pockets.

all on a 100% hand made jacket.

i.e. The first 2 are USD 700 and not returns accepted.

On the other hand aristoi bcn aristoi bcn has a beautiful Anderson and Sheppard that he got second hand (i think)
 

Rambo

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You might find something on Drop93...

Never heard of this site before. Is it new?
 

belinmad

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too much of a gamble in my opinion. I tried a couple of times too and my experience wasn't worth. Got once a beautiful jacket, perfect measure on paper but designed for somebody 30 kilos heavier than me and with a big pouch. Nobody wanted to alter it as the only alteration possible was through the long front dart and it implied removing the patch pockets.

all on a 100% hand made jacket.

i.e. The first 2 are USD 700 and not returns accepted.

On the other hand aristoi bcn aristoi bcn has a beautiful Anderson and Sheppard that he got second hand (i think)

True, I’ve had some lemons (2 smalto jackets cut for an orangutan), but for the most part if you look at measures and have a good alterations tailor you should be good. Then again, if this will be the one shot, I agree that it might be too much of a gamble. Ymmv.
 
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