If sizes are not a problem, I’d go to ebay with “bespoke” in the suits category and see what pops up that catches your eye, and do some research when you find something interesting. That’s how I started, and managed to get decent stuff before I went the tailor way.
Ebay use to be good for T&A, Gieves & Hawkes and Hermes ties. It seems a bit light on those fronts these days.
I may even go M2M with Thick as a thieves again, but it’s fun looking for a ‘deal’.
What are some OTR brands to look for, that might come close to what I’m looking for (and have done a bad job of articulating)?
I think I’ve had a search for ‘Dunhill’ (made by Zegna) and ‘ticket pocket’ for a few years that never deliver.
Cordings will give you the ticket pocket. Their standard three button jacket is not for everyone. That top button sometimes feels like overkill.
When it comes to OTR you need to find a block that works for you with a brand that isn't going to change between seasons and models e.g. Cordings.
Dunhill had some good clothing back in the late 2000's, had a couple of shirts when I was back 15 3/4 neck and great cufflinks of course. Their website looks good, but a warning to me, is when there's no option on length. For sure, that's a sign it will be in boy's sizes and way too short.
J.Press - I've a couple of jackets and a blazer, but the customs costs for me make it suddenly nearly a grand for an OTR jacket. I don't think so. Rate them top notch on OTR front.
I've a number of RL jackets and blazers from outlet villages I've picked-up at outsandingly good prices. Their 44L is generally a great size for me and I don't even have to shorten the sleeve length. But paying €995 for the current RL67 sports jacket is just over priced. But in general, with Ralphy, whilst it's too ubiquitous these days, it's still excellent quality for select items.
Gieves & Hawkes, don't go near. Might still be good for bespoke, but the Chinese ownership has killed it for off the peg. Quality and style, just not there, especially colour schemes.
That wife of the owner of Thick As Thieves has got a bit of a burlesque look about her. Here that look is adopted by queer culture ladies.
Harvie and Hudson do pretty middle of the road British stuff as well
Last time I was on Jermyn Street I wanted to check them out as the store looks really well laid out and jackets are very reasonably priced. But I had to get to London City quick, so missed them. I bought from them late last year some shirts on a reasonable deal, but only one of them is any good. And a bit of an internet search and the same patterns and exact same manufactured shirts could be sourced for €25. So not going to use them again and also no long jacket sizes.
Thruth what’s your take on N1 deck jackets? I’ve never handled one, but it looks like something that might work for our winter snow vacations and last longer than the Lands End crap that keeps wearing out. OTOH, seems a bit trendy now and the days of picking one up a nwot ‘Shoreshank Redemption’ jacket at the local surplus store are long gone.
