Rambo
a down payment on a lease is bullshit. I gave a 2k downpayment on my cc and i pay 300 dollars a month. And its mine. Now you are giving 2 to 3k iof downpayment in something that is never gonna be yours, plus side is that some of that money is tax deductible. Lease its only good for people that have plenty of money. My friends have a fleet of 7 cars at least and they all lease because they change them every year.Car Talk
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Rambo
a down payment on a lease is bullshit. I gave a 2k downpayment on my cc and i pay 300 dollars a month. And its mine. Now you are giving 2 to 3k iof downpayment in something that is never gonna be yours, plus side is that some of that money is tax deductible. Lease its only good for people that have plenty of money. My friends have a fleet of 7 cars at least and they all lease because they change them every year.
yes i do get it. current lease deal through honda america is $199 a month with $2000 down on an LX, as I talked through with Thruth above. here once again is the LX term:
financing is currently at .9% on a buy. the lowest price i've been able to source for an EX is roughly $24500. MSRP is 26500. So compared to the LX in the Honda add we can assume a $2500 difference. Lets say I pay out tax and all the other fees, which at 7% would be roughly $2000 anyway, we're looking at financing about $25000 for five years.
https://www.google.com/#q=calculate+auto+loan
That's a $420 a month payment for five years.
If we calculate the real lease payment on the EX with $2000 down, I think I can source it at $210 a month, so that would be first month + down + acquisition fee (210 +595 +2000) = $2805 divided by the term of the lease (36) = $77.92. Added into the monthly of $210 gives us ($210 + 77.92) = $287.92 . Divide that by the MSRP of the EX ($26,500) = .0108565 and multiplied by 10000 to give us the payment per $10000 of car = $108.65. Anything below $110 per $10000 of car on a lease is a good deal, especially on an in demand car like an Accord.
financing is currently at .9% on a buy. the lowest price i've been able to source for an EX is roughly $24500. MSRP is 26500. So compared to the LX in the Honda add we can assume a $2500 difference. Lets say I pay out tax and all the other fees, which at 7% would be roughly $2000 anyway, we're looking at financing about $25000 for five years.
https://www.google.com/#q=calculate+auto+loan
That's a $420 a month payment for five years.
If we calculate the real lease payment on the EX with $2000 down, I think I can source it at $210 a month, so that would be first month + down + acquisition fee (210 +595 +2000) = $2805 divided by the term of the lease (36) = $77.92. Added into the monthly of $210 gives us ($210 + 77.92) = $287.92 . Divide that by the MSRP of the EX ($26,500) = .0108565 and multiplied by 10000 to give us the payment per $10000 of car = $108.65. Anything below $110 per $10000 of car on a lease is a good deal, especially on an in demand car like an Accord.
Rambo
a down payment on a lease is bullshit. I gave a 2k downpayment on my cc and i pay 300 dollars a month. And its mine. Now you are giving 2 to 3k iof downpayment in something that is never gonna be yours, plus side is that some of that money is tax deductible. Lease its only good for people that have plenty of money. My friends have a fleet of 7 cars at least and they all lease because they change them every year.
if you want to figure out depreciation value go here:
https://www.edmunds.com/honda/accord/2017/sedan/st-401649924/cost-to-own/
figure roughly $12k over 5 years.
https://www.edmunds.com/honda/accord/2017/sedan/st-401649924/cost-to-own/
figure roughly $12k over 5 years.
- Depreciation
- $3,817
- $2,489
- $2,192
- $1,943
- $1,743
- $12,184
If it is outside the warranty you have to pay for maintenance and repairs.
You will often get dinged at end of lease for "excessive" tire wear and they want you to replace the tires at a higher cost than if you did it yourself.
You will often get dinged at end of lease for "excessive" tire wear and they want you to replace the tires at a higher cost than if you did it yourself.
I lease my cars. Here are some of the 'stunts' I pull. I live in England so obviously, things may/will be different if you live elsewhere.
Check the service schedule, you'll typically find that you have a month/1000 mile grace period on servicing. Therefore, you can have your car serviced every 13 months (mileage dependent of course) This strategy will push you beyond having to service the car just before you give it back (presuming you are on a 12, 24, 36...month lease deal).
Get the car MOT'd just before you hand it back, this will highlight any potential problems, if the tyres pass the MOT for example, the lease company cannot insist that you change the tyres as they are legally acceptable.
Look after the vehicle as though you have purchased it, obviously.
And don't spec any optional extras on the car.
Here is a guide (Britain)
http://www.bvrla.co.uk/service/fair-wear-and-tear-guides.
Check the service schedule, you'll typically find that you have a month/1000 mile grace period on servicing. Therefore, you can have your car serviced every 13 months (mileage dependent of course) This strategy will push you beyond having to service the car just before you give it back (presuming you are on a 12, 24, 36...month lease deal).
Get the car MOT'd just before you hand it back, this will highlight any potential problems, if the tyres pass the MOT for example, the lease company cannot insist that you change the tyres as they are legally acceptable.
Look after the vehicle as though you have purchased it, obviously.
And don't spec any optional extras on the car.
Here is a guide (Britain)
http://www.bvrla.co.uk/service/fair-wear-and-tear-guides.
My wife backed the Volvo into her father's truck, so that was that. Goddammit. We just replaced it with a Lexus CT200h. It's built on the Prius power train, and can't get out of its own way unless you tune the transmission to "Sport" -- literally, turning a knob -- and then the dashboard lights up red and it becomes a very nice little car. 43 mpg, beautiful fit and finish, fun as hell. It's like a cross between a private jet and a go-kart. It actually gets better mileage in gridlock than it does at freeway speed, which is ideal around here.
We did pretty well flipping condos back in the day, and paid cash for our cars about 8 (Jesus, almost 9) years ago. Since then, we've been taking what would have been our car payments -- $350/month -- and putting it into an indexed fund to save up for the next cars, which we originally figured we'd need within five years or so. So, essentially, we've been making payments, but to ourselves, picking up interest instead of paying it for the last nine years. Well, we know what the market has done in the last nine years. We're good for the next couple of iterations of cars at this point. I'm having some work done on my 2003 Grand Cherokee: seals, new fan clutch, dash lights, and fixing a minor delamination of the clearcoat. It's running beautifully, even having just turned 200K, and I see no reason to replace it.
It was really nice walking into a Lexus dealer, pointing to the car we want, and having the finance guy call our bank and work it out while we had cappuccinos. I felt like such an adult. We went with a CPO because we're still on the early list for a Tesla 3 and we want to see how it shakes out; we want to be able to dump this one if the Tesla is everything we dreamed. The CPO included an extra 2-year warranty on top of the remainder of the original. Lexus's CPO program is outstanding.
We did pretty well flipping condos back in the day, and paid cash for our cars about 8 (Jesus, almost 9) years ago. Since then, we've been taking what would have been our car payments -- $350/month -- and putting it into an indexed fund to save up for the next cars, which we originally figured we'd need within five years or so. So, essentially, we've been making payments, but to ourselves, picking up interest instead of paying it for the last nine years. Well, we know what the market has done in the last nine years. We're good for the next couple of iterations of cars at this point. I'm having some work done on my 2003 Grand Cherokee: seals, new fan clutch, dash lights, and fixing a minor delamination of the clearcoat. It's running beautifully, even having just turned 200K, and I see no reason to replace it.
It was really nice walking into a Lexus dealer, pointing to the car we want, and having the finance guy call our bank and work it out while we had cappuccinos. I felt like such an adult. We went with a CPO because we're still on the early list for a Tesla 3 and we want to see how it shakes out; we want to be able to dump this one if the Tesla is everything we dreamed. The CPO included an extra 2-year warranty on top of the remainder of the original. Lexus's CPO program is outstanding.
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They'd only take five grand on a card, so we used one with 2% cash back, had the bank wire the rest, and then paid off the balance the next morning and drove the new car into town, where CitiBank effectively bought us lobster eggs Benedict, roughly a half gallon of mimosas, and a matinee showing of Logan.
We make it a point to fuck these guys over a couple of times a year; most egregiously, we built the house on a mileage-reward card, paying every balance off immediately, and went surfing in Kauai for a month when we were done. I keep expecting one of our card companies to leave a horse's head in our bed.
We make it a point to fuck these guys over a couple of times a year; most egregiously, we built the house on a mileage-reward card, paying every balance off immediately, and went surfing in Kauai for a month when we were done. I keep expecting one of our card companies to leave a horse's head in our bed.
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No way Tesla will be able to keep up with the maintenance for all the model 3s. They can barely service all the S and X at the moment. I'd ask for a refund of your deposit.
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What do you guys pay for insurance? I'm getting quoted between $300-$800/month (Progressive is the cheapest, Geico the most expensive), which is more than my car payments would be. Even a stupid Prius is $280. Why is there such a big disparity between insurers for comparable coverage? Do some just discriminate against furreners? I have zero tickets/accidents ever, and European requirements for a driving license are much more rigorous than the laughably short US tests.
its very dependent upon where you live. for me, my rates are around $1800 for 6 months just because south florida is accident central. And that's on a damn toyota camry. $800 a month is nuts. look into some other state wide companies. I found my best rate through my state's farm bureau. cost $50 to join for a year but they do home and auto.
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Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. I could just get legal minimum for 6 months and then hope premiums will have dropped enough to insure a more reasonable amount, but it seems risky. It's also odd they only insure up to 500k. In Europe you can easily do 1-2mm, while medical costs are much lower here. The US is a weird country when it comes to insurance.
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I think the standard PI and car insurance over here is €5mm.
You're going to get hammered in a new country at first as they won't likely reognize non-claim bonuses from other countries. My first car insurance over here was something like €450+ a month.
You're going to get hammered in a new country at first as they won't likely reognize non-claim bonuses from other countries. My first car insurance over here was something like €450+ a month.
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The state minimum is only $30k, how crazy is that? The max they offer is $500k. One bad accident and you can be stuck with millions of debt. There's actually extra insurance one can get to cover someone else's underinsurance. Yanks sure are getting a bad deal when it comes to insurance.
Pauly Chase
doghouse
Thruth
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-full-size-pickup-truck/
The Best Full-Size Pickup Truck
LAST UPDATED: JUNE 29, 2017
We spent more than 150 hours researching over 100 configurations of pickups, consulting with outside experts, and driving every full-size model ourselves—most more than once. We concluded that the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD (in our recommended configuration, at about $45,500) is the best choice for most drivers who want a truck for personal use. The Titan delivers the best combination of value, features, work-truck capabilities, and everyday drivability of any of the models we compared.
Last Updated: This month
After updating this guide to include all 2017 crew-cab models, our new top pick is the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD. Our previous pick, the Ram 1500 Big Horn 4WD, is now our runner-up. Our upgrade pick is a nicely optioned version of the Ford F-150 Lariat.
doghouse
Thruth
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-full-size-pickup-truck/
The Best Full-Size Pickup Truck
LAST UPDATED: JUNE 29, 2017
We spent more than 150 hours researching over 100 configurations of pickups, consulting with outside experts, and driving every full-size model ourselves—most more than once. We concluded that the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD (in our recommended configuration, at about $45,500) is the best choice for most drivers who want a truck for personal use. The Titan delivers the best combination of value, features, work-truck capabilities, and everyday drivability of any of the models we compared.
Last Updated: This month
After updating this guide to include all 2017 crew-cab models, our new top pick is the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD. Our previous pick, the Ram 1500 Big Horn 4WD, is now our runner-up. Our upgrade pick is a nicely optioned version of the Ford F-150 Lariat.
Pauly Chase
doghouse
Thruth
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-full-size-pickup-truck/
The Best Full-Size Pickup Truck
LAST UPDATED: JUNE 29, 2017
We spent more than 150 hours researching over 100 configurations of pickups, consulting with outside experts, and driving every full-size model ourselves—most more than once. We concluded that the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD (in our recommended configuration, at about $45,500) is the best choice for most drivers who want a truck for personal use. The Titan delivers the best combination of value, features, work-truck capabilities, and everyday drivability of any of the models we compared.
Last Updated: This month
After updating this guide to include all 2017 crew-cab models, our new top pick is the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD. Our previous pick, the Ram 1500 Big Horn 4WD, is now our runner-up. Our upgrade pick is a nicely optioned version of the Ford F-150 Lariat.
doghouse
Thruth
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-full-size-pickup-truck/
The Best Full-Size Pickup Truck
LAST UPDATED: JUNE 29, 2017
We spent more than 150 hours researching over 100 configurations of pickups, consulting with outside experts, and driving every full-size model ourselves—most more than once. We concluded that the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD (in our recommended configuration, at about $45,500) is the best choice for most drivers who want a truck for personal use. The Titan delivers the best combination of value, features, work-truck capabilities, and everyday drivability of any of the models we compared.
Last Updated: This month
After updating this guide to include all 2017 crew-cab models, our new top pick is the thoroughly redesigned 2017 Nissan Titan SV Crew Cab 4WD. Our previous pick, the Ram 1500 Big Horn 4WD, is now our runner-up. Our upgrade pick is a nicely optioned version of the Ford F-150 Lariat.
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The ad men have got everything right with this for the demographic interested in a Fiat 500:
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How fast do insurance rates drop? If for example, I have to pay $500/month for the first 6 months because I have no history in the US, will it drop to a more reasonable rate after those 6 months?
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No more "Freude am Fahren"! What happened? Went up a steep board walk?
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Isn’t that what insurance is for?
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If you hit a pothole it should be covered. This is effectively the same thing. Both wheels and tires were damaged at the same time, so both will be covered. I’m sure he had a receipt of the tire purchase to prove it was new.
Unless you have a cheapo policy that excludes things like trees, guardrails and potholes.
Unless you have a cheapo policy that excludes things like trees, guardrails and potholes.
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It does if the accident was big enough to damage the wheels.
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Oh yeah, let’s pay for insurance and not use it. Silly ‘mericans. Insurance firms must love you.
First, it wasn't a pothole. Second, insurance, cheapo or no, doesn't cover road debris usually. If it flies of a vehicle you are covered, laying in the road randomly usually not. This incident is a gray area, because it fell off a truck just before I hit it. I should get the rim and side panel covered if I grovel enough.
that's how it works in this country. you file claims and they raise your rates. homeowners is even worse. if you file more than two claims in two years they're likely to non-renew your policy. plus you'll have trouble getting insurance from other carriers as well.
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You guys are weird.