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The percentage of iGents who actually do bespoke is small in my opinion. I agree the best way is through human interaction not e-interaction.
Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day
- Thread starter Thruth
- Start date
The percentage of iGents who actually do bespoke is small in my opinion. I agree the best way is through human interaction not e-interaction.
while we are at it. I remember several sf'ers who in fact ordered through a trunk show e.g. Cleverley, but then they had mailed the finished shoes to them without further assessement. needless to say that most of these orders didn't fit properley - hi apportnoy - and then the wait until their next itinerary begun. this procedure expanded the turn around up to over two years in some cases. this is the real 5k bespoke experience, imo.
I've been in contact with a Cleverley client who is at his fifth fitting in person. N.Y. and London. not only that they are/were not capable to implement his orthotics in the shoe, they fiddle around since 18 months and there is no end in sight.
I cannot imagine that I would accept a pair of bespoke shoes with an interchangeable insole. would you?
afaik, Scafora stopped visiting the U.S. and A., avaviva
thread is unfinished: http://www.styleforum.net/t/213608/paolo-scafora-upcoming-nyc-visit/15
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I have an MTM shirt or two that proved to fit worse than any RTW available, but I had the decency to quietly acknowledge that I'd cheaped out and screwed up and move on. I'd be livid if instead of <$100 on a shirt I'd blown suit money, whatever that may be, and gotten some barely wearable tripe like this. The button is at the sternum, the cuffs and the skirt are the exact same length. The vest barely shows. Very little lays smoothly. It already looks like a thrift store suit bought in the wrong size and poorly tweaked by the local dry cleaners.
Sartodi Napoli
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Slicknman has two pairs of Scafora for sale
oops. well, he always striked me as a shill, anyway.
ps: from his sales thread: Do not ask me to measure insole/outsole because it is a meaningless and unreliable measurement.
sure, my friend. wtf.
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He just doesn't want to be responsible for accepting returns
well, I'm not familiar with the b&s rules. I assume this is qualified as a private sale?
fwiw, he is selling one of his Vass, too
not sure, if I would trust his sizing expertise.
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The "no measurements" "know your size" rules are used far and wide on EBay and the forums to counteract someone saying give me my money back 'cause the shoes don't fit. As for B&S he's just looking to prevent any aggro from a buyer I think
I probably do not get your point.
my personal take on sm: as soon as you do some cross reading across the board you can see a posting pattern which qualifies him as promoter, sales pusher or whatever this function is called. he doesn't seem to be friend with spoo. otherwise they would be offered by bling swap.
plus no one on sf will buy used bespoke shoes at this price point. not gonna happen.
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Why would people buy used bespoke anything? Unless it is of some historical significance.
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Some kind of body doppleganger? I could see a jacket or a pant where you could just have it taken in/up/etc. if the measurements were just a bit off.
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no different than buying someone's used RTW clothing, except it has the cache of a high quality, expensive bespoke garment. as Rambo says, if the measurements are close and as long as the original owner didn't have any major peculiarities it might work.
Now, I have some exquisite, vintage bespoke ties that could be had for.....
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RTW clothing is cut to a greater allowance than bespoke clothing. Far more people will fit comfortably in someone's used RTW 38R jacket than in someone's bespoke 38Rish jacket.
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True. But, I think for the average person who is buying used, if the typical measurements supplied are close they will buy. Most people are not acutely aware of what a proper fit is anyway. "Can I button the cost and pants? Yes. Works for me"
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Wrong way of looking at it. Say, for instance, someone you know with a relatively similar body size to yours ended up getting fat and not being able to fit in his jackets any more. Now you were the same measurements in the chest but he has slightly longer arms and legs due to being a bit taller. And he's got a fantastic bespoke suit collection. Would you take a flyer on some of his stuff if you knew you could get tons of use out of them with only a few dollars in alterations to the lengths of the sleeves and pant legs? A lot of people might do that for a finely crafted piece of clothing.
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There are a bunch more small things than chest and shoulder and length (or even 4 measures of each). Tons and tons and tons of little things. Shape. RTW just goes big and general with them, so it'll fit a lot more people and be easy to alter from. The same isn't true of bespoke.
Also, the scenario you present isn't a likely one. I guess I was imagining someone on eBay or B&S saying "oh shit, bespoke" and pulling out his credit card. Then telling all his friends about his bespoke Huntsman or something.
There are exceptions. Betel looks pretty fucking great in pocketsquareguy's jacket.
Also, the scenario you present isn't a likely one. I guess I was imagining someone on eBay or B&S saying "oh shit, bespoke" and pulling out his credit card. Then telling all his friends about his bespoke Huntsman or something.
There are exceptions. Betel looks pretty fucking great in pocketsquareguy's jacket.
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Yes, its unlikely, but its possible. That's what I was shooting at. Its just like buying any clothing on eBay. If you find a bargain and you see that its within your spec range, then you take a flyer on it. Whether its bespoke, MTM, or RTW. Its only really a matter of materials and/or construction details at that point.
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The little things are lost on many of those who would buy used bespoke.
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"Here is the kind of post that I just do not understand:
Hi guys I came here while researching Bacco Bucci. Turns out people here hate them.
I guess I am pretty novice when it comes to quality shoes - I know ferragamo, tods, mezlan but I couldn't put those in order of quality. I am curious as to what one should know about higher end brands, as far as I'm concerned I look over most gucci versace hugo stuff in favor of specific shoe makers.
What I am specifically looking for right now is a dressy brown shoe, that will look great with jeans or dress pants. It has to be comfortable.
I liked mezlan austin ostrich shoe but they are out of my price range at $400.
my budget is around $200."
So he was researching Baco Bullshit and it brought him to SF. Now, when confronted with the front page, is it hard to see the search function?
How is it in this day and age with e-resources available at a click that people do not take the time to see if their question has been asked a thousand times before making post 1001?
I mean he navigated registration. Could he not poke around a bit to see what he could find?
Is this the relative intellect of today?
Someone go tell him AE seconds are what he is looking for.
Hi guys I came here while researching Bacco Bucci. Turns out people here hate them.
I guess I am pretty novice when it comes to quality shoes - I know ferragamo, tods, mezlan but I couldn't put those in order of quality. I am curious as to what one should know about higher end brands, as far as I'm concerned I look over most gucci versace hugo stuff in favor of specific shoe makers.
What I am specifically looking for right now is a dressy brown shoe, that will look great with jeans or dress pants. It has to be comfortable.
I liked mezlan austin ostrich shoe but they are out of my price range at $400.
my budget is around $200."
So he was researching Baco Bullshit and it brought him to SF. Now, when confronted with the front page, is it hard to see the search function?
How is it in this day and age with e-resources available at a click that people do not take the time to see if their question has been asked a thousand times before making post 1001?
I mean he navigated registration. Could he not poke around a bit to see what he could find?
Is this the relative intellect of today?
Someone go tell him AE seconds are what he is looking for.
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Geez, you'd think there'd be a sticky thread with all the pat stock answers to easy questions. In this case, the reflexive igent answer is spot on. And as
W
walker
notes, AE is ubiquitous on the fora.
Admittedly, part of the problem is that the recently initiated rush in to show of what they just learned instead of lending solidarity to a "use the search function, noob" front.
Admittedly, part of the problem is that the recently initiated rush in to show of what they just learned instead of lending solidarity to a "use the search function, noob" front.
Don Cologne is his name.
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True dat.
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I think Fok has something in mind. He is asking for volunteers to become noob mentors or something.
this place is already full of mentors. is he planning an offspring academy?
BLSoda
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I think one of the most annoying things about SF is the noob to elitist (mentor) transition.
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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, no?
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More like a clutch on minions perhaps. Kind of like if MF Doom recruits some junior evil Doomer posse. Or Hell's Angels prospects
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But if that transition didn't occur, we'd just be left with GBR.
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He is a great screening tool
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This is very true. I've grown to appreciate him. But I can't help but wonder what he gets out of all this.
most of the time. it's just disturbing, imo. it's lower than a 50:50 ratio
BLSoda
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GBR?
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In the SF Unfunded Liabilities thread there are people trying to track down some Dormeuil Tonik fabric.
One member, with nearly 2000 posts, was surprised that Tonik can be shiny.
Tonik is a mohair blend and mohair has a natural sheen. When combined with wool, the fabric has an iridescence.
Was a choice of Mods, gangsters and anyone else who wanted a more snazzy suit. Far less shiny now as compared to the past.
I guess I am just surprised at what I think is fundamental knowledge that someone who has frequented the forums for a long enough time to put forth 2000 posts (at a non-Stitchy pace) should have gleaned by now.
esteemed iGent #1: Hey, flannel is kinda fuzzy.
Esteemed iGent #2: Wow, thanks for that, good to know.
Can't touch, feel, smell anything from in front of a computer.
One member, with nearly 2000 posts, was surprised that Tonik can be shiny.
Tonik is a mohair blend and mohair has a natural sheen. When combined with wool, the fabric has an iridescence.
Was a choice of Mods, gangsters and anyone else who wanted a more snazzy suit. Far less shiny now as compared to the past.
I guess I am just surprised at what I think is fundamental knowledge that someone who has frequented the forums for a long enough time to put forth 2000 posts (at a non-Stitchy pace) should have gleaned by now.
esteemed iGent #1: Hey, flannel is kinda fuzzy.
Esteemed iGent #2: Wow, thanks for that, good to know.
Can't touch, feel, smell anything from in front of a computer.
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Bespoken pa says:
I often wonder how beneficial bespoke is in terms of shoes for people with average feet?
What is an average foot? Not too long, not too short, not too narrow, not too wide?
His moniker is Bespoken pa, so what does he bespeak?
"Hey SF, do I need to tweek my shirt sleeves by 3 microns? When I look at them under the electron microscope they seem a bit long"
"Nah, unless I have cloven hooves, I'm happy with an average fit for my average feet. I mean how much better can a shoe fit just because they make it expressly for me based on my measurements?"
I often wonder how beneficial bespoke is in terms of shoes for people with average feet?
What is an average foot? Not too long, not too short, not too narrow, not too wide?
His moniker is Bespoken pa, so what does he bespeak?
"Hey SF, do I need to tweek my shirt sleeves by 3 microns? When I look at them under the electron microscope they seem a bit long"
"Nah, unless I have cloven hooves, I'm happy with an average fit for my average feet. I mean how much better can a shoe fit just because they make it expressly for me based on my measurements?"
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Dammit, I knew it was too good to be true. I am so dumb, dumb, dumb!
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So today's peeve concerns a particular type of poster, namely the ones who see a need to insert their profession into their moniker. You know the ones, they add MD or Doc to their alias.
If find this to be in poor taste, especially for a healthcare practitioner. I don't think I've come across a DapperDentist, DandyDitchDigger, nor BesponeMaleNurse.
I guess we can extend it to the likes of LawyerDad et al as well. I don't care if he is a lawyer, a father, a father of a lawyer.
What is their motivation? Adding their profession will somehow make their posts ring with more validity? They are so proud of themselves? They have a lack of imagination? Or they have so little else going on in their lives that they only see themselves as a function of what they do?
Generally not as witnessed by the rather banal contributions many of them make.
Reminds me of the old joke:
A Jewish mother, seeing her son foundering in the water at the seashore, runs along the beach yelling "help, help, my son the Doctor is drowning!"
If find this to be in poor taste, especially for a healthcare practitioner. I don't think I've come across a DapperDentist, DandyDitchDigger, nor BesponeMaleNurse.
I guess we can extend it to the likes of LawyerDad et al as well. I don't care if he is a lawyer, a father, a father of a lawyer.
What is their motivation? Adding their profession will somehow make their posts ring with more validity? They are so proud of themselves? They have a lack of imagination? Or they have so little else going on in their lives that they only see themselves as a function of what they do?
Generally not as witnessed by the rather banal contributions many of them make.
Reminds me of the old joke:
A Jewish mother, seeing her son foundering in the water at the seashore, runs along the beach yelling "help, help, my son the Doctor is drowning!"
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Ankle bracelets now? Really? REALLY???