Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Permanent Stule Sham awards and best blog is Die Worker Wear

From the Derik:

“It's pretty straightforward. I don't write or publish sponsored posts, or include sponsored content in my posts. I return or donate to charity all review garments. I disclose when I write about an advertiser. And I don't let my business relationships get in the way of my editorial objectivity.”


Haha what fuck ironing is this!
 
C CM78

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Elite company

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why does this look so weird to me? is it the rise of the pants or the angle of the photo?

Pants rise, pants cut too close, pants to short. Jacket quarters cut away in inelegant manner that add to the overall feminine appearance, enlarges the hips and highlights the problem with the pants.

Or it could all be the camera angle and stance Olololo....
 
I think its a mix of everything.
it's a bad suit that in a different angle doesn't look too bad, but here, in fact yes, a bit strange.
 
why does this look so weird to me? is it the rise of the pants or the angle of the photo?

I've been seeing him on IG for quite some time, one of the few iGents that wear Belvest and similar brands...but with that said, his trousers are almost always too short, given the width at cuffs.

He also seems to have long legs. But it could be the angle...whoever took the picture seems to photograph from hip height.
 
I've been seeing him on IG for quite some time, one of the few iGents that wear Belvest and similar brands...but with that said, his trousers are almost always too short, given the width at cuffs.

He also seems to have long legs. But it could be the angle...whoever took the picture seems to photograph from hip height.
He is very beautiful and sexy. And he doesn’t wear belvest .
Yes , pants are too short .
 
Pants rise, pants cut too close, pants to short. Jacket quarters cut away in inelegant manner that add to the overall feminine appearance, enlarges the hips and highlights the problem with the pants.

Or it could all be the camera angle and stance Olololo....

Top suit science.
 
The problem with internet forums, and one in particular, is that there are far more "experts" than there are people who actually know what they are talking about, and the "experts" are usually the loudest.
 
That's the whole problem these days. Everyone wants to be the teacher and play the role of the expert. No-one wants to be the student anymore. Everyone is a self appointed guru now because they think they know more than they do.

Why is this? It is because of youtube, blogs and forums where people can broadcast their thoughts to the world and play the role of being `all knowing'.

To me....be the student and find a good teacher and you'll know more than those `so called' experts anytime. When one plays the student one will always learn heaps more than 99% of those gurus. It's great being the student, but no-one wants to be one anymore.

Frankly l am quite tired of it. Ego is keeping people clueless.
 
Totally agreed. Good point
.
It’s possible I could be a student and learn a lot about footwear from you and your seemingly vast experience and collection.

But since you can’t even spell the fucking word ‘shoe’ correctly, my instincts lead me to search elsewhere for my cordwaining professor.
 
Totally agreed. Good point
.
It’s possible I could be a student and learn a lot about footwear from you and your seemingly vast experience and collection.

But since you can’t even spell the fucking word ‘shoe’ correctly, my instincts lead me to search elsewhere for my cordwaining professor.

See, the thing is that many read the internet and then decide to play the role of teacher, BUT they don't do the work in the field and gain real experience and really learn what is what. With shoes for example, one will just regurgitate what others have said, but they don't understand at a deep level why things are the way they are, and this is the real big problem I have with forums.

A man has to find his own way and develop his own thinking! A man needs to work things out for himself and not be swayed by opinion. A man must find his own thinking and be able to fully justify his opinion with deep logical reasoning. See...most of these internet people lack this, they don't have a deep understanding of things because they often can't explain things in detail.

The only shoe knowledge I got from the internet was the construction diagrams. The rest came from common sense (the biggest thing), lots of thinking about things for myself, lots of visualisation skills, experimenting in the field and talking to professionals widely in the field. You can't learn much about footwear from reading the internet, one must be able to work it out for themselves. You've either got it or you haven't...Why?...because understanding footwear is mainly logic and visualisation skills. All the footwear professionals did was is fill in a few gaps I had in my knowledge. Being able to work most of it out yourself is the key.


Great White Snark said:
But since you can’t even spell the fucking word ‘shoe’ correctly, my instincts lead me to search elsewhere for my cordwaining professor.

Hey snarky, my username is Shooman so l use the signiture word "shoo". Better not to take it too seriously.
 
That's the whole problem these days. Everyone wants to be the teacher and play the role of the expert. No-one wants to be the student anymore. Everyone is a self appointed guru now because they think they know more than they do.

Why is this? It is because of youtube, blogs and forums where people can broadcast their thoughts to the world and play the role of being `all knowing'.

To me....be the student and find a good teacher and you'll know more than those `so called' experts anytime. When one plays the student one will always learn heaps more than 99% of those gurus. It's great being the student, but no-one wants to be one anymore.

Frankly l am quite tired of it. Ego is keeping people clueless.

People know what they know and don't know what they don't know.

The internet seemingly makes it easy to jump to expert without actually learning through trial and error.

You actually have to commit to lifelong learning and desire to learn.

The internet and Igentry is perfectly suited for surface learning.

If you don't self study or actually speak with craftsman, all you are doing is channeling second hand information.
 
Dw tried to teach igents about gemming failure, but it was wasted info on many igents. Instead of using DW's knowledge as a starting point, many igents simply decided he was wrong and that they knew better.

Why not go to the factories and major quality workshops and find out if gemming failure is true. I did. Actually, l didn't even have to ask them in some cases, they simply volunteered the info and said it was "common" or "happens all the time".

BUT some igents actually did ask cobblers about gemming failure and many cobblers wrongly stated it was a myth. See...the igents were asking the wrong questions, so they got the misleading answers.

When cobblers say gemming failure doesn't exist, you ask them the following question.
1). Did you strip back the cork to check? This tests whether they really know that gemming failure exists and it tests whether they are cutting corners when they do refurbishments. See, some cobblers don't want to do rebuilds and recorkings Too costly in terms of time lost and they lack the equipment for proper rebuilds)...all they do is a resole without checking for commonly occuring gemming failure, THEREFORE igents report cobblers say gemming failure doesn't exist, but what it most likely means is that the cobblers are not taking the time to be thorough to check for failure. Lots of cobblers are like that.

In the old days when goodyear welted shoes were common the factories used to sell gemming tape because gemming failure is so common. But igents don't ask the right questions and do proper research so they don't know the real situation. Manufacturers of highend goodyear welted footwear will initially play dumb about gemming failure, but when you let them know that you know they do come clean.
 
I didn't really start learning about suit science until I started dissecting and tailoring my own stuff.
Worst thing is that I tried to play the expert in the past, before that happened. And for that I'm sorry.
 
I didn't really start learning about suit science until I started dissecting and tailoring my own stuff.
Worst thing is that I tried to play the expert in the past, before that happened. And for that I'm sorry.

My tailor read some of the forums and he thinks igents are idiots who don't know what they are talking about.

Various other bespoke makers also think igents and `so called' experts are idiots. And when igents start saying that bespoke cordwainer X is not real bespoke or a real shoemaker, I can well understand why the industry types loathe igents so much. Lots of industry people hate the clothing forums. Too many people with big mouths talking too much.
 
Dw tried to teach igents about gemming failure, but it was wasted info on many igents. Instead of using DW's knowledge as a starting point, many igents simply decided he was wrong and that they knew better.

Why not go to the factories and major quality workshops and find out if gemming failure is true. I did. Actually, l didn't even have to ask them in some cases, they simply volunteered the info and said it was "common" or "happens all the time".

BUT some igents actually did ask cobblers about gemming failure and many cobblers wrongly stated it was a myth. See...the igents were asking the wrong questions, so they got the misleading answers.

When cobblers say gemming failure doesn't exist, you ask them the following question.
1). Did you strip back the cork to check? This tests whether they really know that gemming failure exists and it tests whether they are cutting corners when they do refurbishments. See, some cobblers don't want to do rebuilds and recorkings Too costly in terms of time lost and they lack the equipment for proper rebuilds)...all they do is a resole without checking for commonly occuring gemming failure, THEREFORE igents report cobblers say gemming failure doesn't exist, but what it most likely means is that the cobblers are not taking the time to be thorough to check for failure. Lots of cobblers are like that.

In the old days when goodyear welted shoes were common the factories used to sell gemming tape because gemming failure is so common. But igents don't ask the right questions and do proper research so they don't know the real situation. Manufacturers of highend goodyear welted footwear will initially play dumb about gemming failure, but when you let them know that you know they do come clean.
One of the problems there, as I'm sure you know, is that DW speaks such bullshit at many times its hard to know when to listen to him. But as you say - if you are interested in things - you take things apart - shoes, suits, cars, houses etc. You also try to build things - even if its only a hobby attempt, you talk and look and listen. And you read authoritative works. And you think. All skills in short supply.

Funny aside: Nerd memories: I still remember the day we were in the Florsheim shop talking about the good old days, V cleats, Imperials etc and then to illustrate the point you pulled a pair of original Imperials with V cleat out of our scruffy plastic shopping bag. The look on the bloke's face was priceless.
 
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What is gemming failure?

I'm keen to learn.

The welt in a goodyear shoe has to be stitched to the insole; it can be stitched to the insole itself, by means of a channel cut directly into it (hand welting) or to a length of canvas tape that is glued to the insole (gemming).
If the canvas tape comes loose then you have gemming failure.
 
The welt in a goodyear shoe has to be stitched to the insole; it can be stitched to the insole itself, by means of a channel cut directly into it (hand welting) or to a length of canvas tape that is glued to the insole (gemming).
If the canvas tape comes loose then you have gemming failure.

Thank you. Fascinating. I did a bit of rummaging through the old t'Internets, and it seems none of the Northamptonshire shoemakers use hand welting.
 
Dw tried to teach igents about gemming failure, but it was wasted info on many igents. Instead of using DW's knowledge as a starting point, many igents simply decided he was wrong and that they knew better.

More likely they never had shoes with gemming failure and they did not know anybody else who had.

Then they got tired of his constant posts about gemming failure.

To cap it all, they found out who DWF was. They saw his photos online and decided he was a weirdo from Oregon who made cowboy boots that might suit Wyatt Earp but had little relevance to their own lives.
http://www.bootmaker.com/newpage.htm#Who Are We

Heck, he might even be a poster on Fedora Lounge.
 
e.g. whatever is going on in that Antonio Meccariello thread! I see Fok has had to step in to tell people to chill with legal threats?!
 
D.W. Frommer II. What kind of II doesn’t just go by Jr? Even Donald Trump Jr doesn’t go with II.

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Still, that mustache is legit.
 
Er, the jacket needn't follow the small of the back like a second skin. It's a modern affectation that does more harm than good.

I like some extra tissu there to avoid making the ass look huge. Just a slight pinch for shape. As long as the shoulders and back are correctly fitted the ease should hang nicely.
 

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