fake tailors and craftsmen (who also happen to be tackies) Exposed

[Sartodi Napoli]

Meanwhile, i found this real non manipulated conversation between two " men" incluiding the arstocrat, taken from his blog.



Bueno, tan solo es una reflexión. No me extrañaría que algún lector apasionado de los perfumes, se haya preguntado alguna vez "¿A qué olerá José María López-Galiacho?"
Saludos cordiales.
José Fco.

23/10/13
Blogger El Aristócrata dijo...
Estimado José Francisco,

Gracias por su comentario. La verdad es que no lo he hecho nunca no porque no piense que el perfume no sea importante sino porque es un tema muy subjetivo. Seguramente a usted mi perfume no le entusiasmará y probablemente yo prefiera el mío al suyo.



One (ghey) ask the arstocrat, to what would you smell?

The arstocrat answers; I am sure you will be delightled by me perfume, or probable i will prefer your perfume.

----

NO MANIPULATION, THIS IS FOR REAL, I wonder if the first was Robertito, of course.

 

[Thruth]

It is nice to see Sarto back to his normal crazy self

 

[Scherensammler]

My contact in Naples told me that there are rumors that SdN can actually control time and space.
Which would explain why I constantly have the feeling that I've seen his posts before!

A friend of mine is a bespoke tailor and it's quite amazing what features customers might ask for. One wanted his sleeves set so that he could comfortably read the papers while he was chauffeured to his office.
Naturally, those sleeves would look terrible with arms down and would have landed on SdN's hate list.

A lot of MTM operations sell their products as bespoke (Maßanzug) and everything is fine, unless the customer complains because something went wrong and it cannot be fixed. Try to explain why a "bespoke" suit that came with the promise of perfect fit looks worse than RTW.
Due to a lack of talented (and knowledgeable) tailors they rely on fresh out of apprenticeship "tailors" or "dressmakers" or in worst case scenario on students who get a 1 hour training on how to measure.

Fraudsters are usually quite charming and convincing, so they are good sales people. And not knowing too much about their product (especially when it's suits) actually helps them. If you don't know better it's harder to call it lying.
A lot of the staff are girls or women who will tell the customers anything to get the suit out of the door and the cash in the till.
Try to explain to your wife that you paid for that train wreck of a suit because that hot chick in the shop said you look great...

Decent tailors (and businessmen) care about their product and their reputation, while the scammers will just close their shops and open another business elsewhere under a different name.

If I was younger, better looking and actually charming I'd open a "bespoke" shop for ties and or suits in Naples.
I'd call myself Luigi Calamari, because I could then have a squid image on my suit label or on my ties.

A bit like this Sergio Leone Italo- western drop-out:

I've never seen him in a good fitting outfit.

 

[Arnathor]

Lino Lettuce took his crap-coloured shoes and dipped them in Saudi Arabian oil.

 

[Russell Street]

A lot of MTM operations sell their products as bespoke

Yeah, custom maybe but if there is not a unique pattern made from scratch, not bespoke.

A lot of the staff are girls or women

Well that's almost a surefire tipoff that the place is sketchy. To be a bit AAAC, what do women know about menswear?

I do like the slightly rounded lapel corners. I bet LelandJ does too, despite the wide lapels and all.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

Post 204 gets the Sarto Award.

Congratulations, you are letting behind tackiness.

 

[prince nez]

If I was younger, better looking and actually charming I'd open a "bespoke" shop for ties and or suits in Naples. I'd call myself Luigi Calamari, because I could then have a squid image on my suit label or on my ties.

 

[Scherensammler]

Not bad, but I was thinking something more sophisticated. Mind you, I'm trying to sell my goods to tackies and simpletons...

 

[Scherensammler]

On a second thought I'd like to change the name of the company to "Che Catso".
Not only is this name already well established in Italian culture, it will surely provide more options for an interesting logo.
Plus it will also be way easier to enter the Asian market.

 

[Scherensammler]

Yeah, custom maybe but if there is not a unique pattern made from scratch, not bespoke.

To be honest I wouldn't care how the pattern was created. Mainly because the "how" is the only component that has the least effect on the final result. I'd rather see a tailor use a tried and tested block and get it right straight away, than one who uses a goofy system of freehand drafting that will end up with more operations than Sylvester Stallone's mum.
It's more of a marketing gimmick of real bespoke tailors, since it's the one thing that MTM companies won't do.
Fully canvassed fronts, (hand) padded lapels and hand made buttonholes, along with hand stitched edges are now all options of "better", more expencive MTM. Even a spalla camicia (or manica mappina) is available since it became some sort of hype.
So, apart from the opportunity to actually see, meet and watch the people who make the garments with their hands and traditional methods, having the chance of giving personal input about the feel of a garment and improve the fit before it is finished would have the highest value for me.
But then, I won't be able to afford a bespoke suit until my new company in Naples makes a profit. Damn, how does one learn to become a tacky?

 

[cond]

and tacky shoes



View attachment 4877

I think you made him sad. Those shoes are now for sale.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

I think you made him sad. Those shoes are now for sale.

where?

 

[cond]

where?

Edward Green Double Monk, UK8/EU42 - Stilmagazin

 

[LKP]

Edward Green Double Monk, UK8/EU42 - Stilmagazin

l0l yuo sruf stilmagazin
very don colon

 

[Thruth]

l0l yuo sruf stilmagazin
very don colon

does Sartodi Napoli speak German? i found it funny his old pal is selling his shoes and the front page of stilmagazin says (is that Sarto on the left?):

 

[LKP]

does Sartodi Napoli speak German? i found it funny his old pal is selling his shoes and the front page of stilmagazin says (is that Sarto on the left?):
View attachment 5010

BEST BRANDS!
LA VERA SARTORIA PROLETANA
SAINT CRISPY
VIOLA MILANO BESPOKE BRACCIALETTI
D\AVINO MANY 56++++++ HANDMADE TOUCHES SHIRETTYDXZ

 

[Scherensammler]

This is so wrong (from the Sarto in Viaggio website):

LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA
Under the guiding hands of the father-son team of Orazio and Pino Luciano, their boldly named La Vera Sartoria Napoletana has become ’the’ brand for tailoring connoisseurs worldwide. Launched in 1992 by master tailor Orazio Luciano, who had many years experience at renowned companies such as Isaia and of course Kiton, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana provide men all over the world with the quintessence of Neapolitan tailoring. Their completely handmade garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke. La Vera Sartoria Napoletana roughly translates to ”The real Neapolitan tailor”, and real Neapolitan tailoring is exactly what you will get.

Not sure who came up with that rubbish, the Lucianos or this man, Michael Jondral:

I totally hate it when RTW businesses/ companies use that kind of wording.

 

[LKP]

This is so wrong (from the Sarto in Viaggio website):

LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA
Under the guiding hands of the father-son team of Orazio and Pino Luciano, their boldly named La Vera Sartoria Napoletana has become ’the’ brand for tailoring connoisseurs worldwide. Launched in 1992 by master tailor Orazio Luciano, who had many years experience at renowned companies such as Isaia and of course Kiton, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana provide men all over the world with the quintessence of Neapolitan tailoring. Their completely handmade garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke. La Vera Sartoria Napoletana roughly translates to ”The real Neapolitan tailor”, and real Neapolitan tailoring is exactly what you will get.

Not sure who came up with that rubbish, the Lucianos or this man, Michael Jondral:

I totally hate it when RTW businesses/ companies use that kind of wording.

someone has to pay the old man's dysport

 

[ConchitaWurst]

This is so wrong (from the Sarto in Viaggio website):

LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA
Under the guiding hands of the father-son team of Orazio and Pino Luciano, their boldly named La Vera Sartoria Napoletana has become ’the’ brand for tailoring connoisseurs worldwide. Launched in 1992 by master tailor Orazio Luciano, who had many years experience at renowned companies such as Isaia and of course Kiton, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana provide men all over the world with the quintessence of Neapolitan tailoring. Their completely handmade garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke. La Vera Sartoria Napoletana roughly translates to ”The real Neapolitan tailor”, and real Neapolitan tailoring is exactly what you will get.

Not sure who came up with that rubbish, the Lucianos or this man, Michael Jondral:

I totally hate it when RTW businesses/ companies use that kind of wording.

what's wrong? they had a one time miss with sarto's orphaned pinstriped jacket, but that's all.

 

[Scherensammler]

I don't care about Sarto's crappy jacket, it's this part that urks me:

Their (completely handmade) garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke.

Marketing themselves as "the best there is" is one thing, but throwing "bespoke" into the mix is just wrong. And given the needles and stitch lengths used and to be seen in this video I'm worried about "real" Neapolitan tailoring.
My mum uses darning needles that are smaller then the ones they use stitching the pocket jets. A good half inch stitch length is just sloppy work.

 

[FriendCustomer]

BEST BRANDS!
LA VERA SARTORIA PROLETANA
SAINT CRISPY
VIOLA MILANO BESPOKE BRACCIALETTI
D\AVINO MANY 56++++++ HANDMADE TOUCHES SHIRETTYDXZ

this trunk show is crap, where is the master, Mr Raro, for the total look Mararo? #rareisnotimpossible

 

[Journeyman]

This is so wrong (from the Sarto in Viaggio website):

...

Not sure who came up with that rubbish, the Lucianos or this man, Michael Jondral:

I'm beginning to really dislike Solaro suits.

It probably doesn't help that they're typically worn by #menswear types who put little decorative things in their lapel buttonholes.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

This is so wrong (from the Sarto in Viaggio website):

LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA
Under the guiding hands of the father-son team of Orazio and Pino Luciano, their boldly named La Vera Sartoria Napoletana has become ’the’ brand for tailoring connoisseurs worldwide. Launched in 1992 by master tailor Orazio Luciano, who had many years experience at renowned companies such as Isaia and of course Kiton, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana provide men all over the world with the quintessence of Neapolitan tailoring. Their completely handmade garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke. La Vera Sartoria Napoletana roughly translates to ”The real Neapolitan tailor”, and real Neapolitan tailoring is exactly what you will get.

Not sure who came up with that rubbish, the Lucianos or this man, Michael Jondral:

I totally hate it when RTW businesses/ companies use that kind of wording.

Wow, an ace poker of degenerate people.

All on the list incluiding that ghey tacky who happens to have a lessy daughter( this is for real) is absolutely crap and degenerate people.

Viola
Orazio the fused Neapolitan untailoring. " Their completely handmade garments are offered as RTW and MTM, but the results sometimes surpass what even the most discerning customers have come to expect from bespoke", THAT IS COMPLETEY SURE, AS FOR SURE ANY BESPOKE CLIENT WOULD EXPECT A FUSED JACKET 3 SIZES MORE WITH POLYESTER LINING.


The shit-maker of gheyanni who i regret having met, another compulsive liar from 12 words he say, 15 are completely bullshit and also is unable to keep his word ( in case he has).
Some awful shoes that used to being represented by my scammer Cravatte Noir ( he was unable to sell 2 pairs on a season)

NEVER TRUST TACKYS, LESSON NUMBER 1.

POLL/ GAME, FIND THE ONLY NON DEGENERATE AND bad GHEY ON THIS JONDRAL DISGISTING COLLECTION OF WEIRDOS. This is what he believes on his sick anal world what style means.

Edit; i forgot the link;

GAZZETTINO: You are a very stylish boy

Note, advanced students of Sarto Guide to Diagnose Weirdos, how to avoid being scammed, raped or kidnapped by social dangerous goblins, you will see that " style" is nowadays a synonym of tacky, unmen, degenerate, and the totally contrary to humble family man elegant man on real tailored suits,

This video has been projected on the cathedra of personality disorders of my uni, as test to diagnose schyzotypals, histrionics and other subgroups. The cathedratic found excited and borrowed the video for his biblioteque. This is for real.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

what's wrong? they had a one time miss with sarto's orphaned pinstriped jacket, but that's all.

Sure, on any of those jackets you will find more wasted tires for fusing that on the Formula1 race on Monaco.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

who happens to have a lessy daughter( this is for real)

what's that??

 

[Scherensammler]

It probably doesn't help that they're typically worn by #menswear types who put little decorative things in their lapel buttonholes.

That "perl in the lapel buttonhole" idea he took from Engelbert Ott (Austrian bespoke tailor), who used it as a trade mark.

 

[prince nez]

Mods - requesting custom title: "social dangerous goblin".

That is all.

 

[fxh]

Recent picture of sarto

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

On the NYTIMES, they do an article about Naples, and feature a poor untailor called Davide Toffani, poor poor, and Tackynacci.

crap

New York Times: Napoli è il paradiso della sartoria | Napoli da Vivere

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

View attachment 5024 Spanish tailors, and their shills. and the shill with no nose bone of so much snorting and writting bullshit high.

This junky tried to take pics on Pitti with some of my friends, who contacted me and told me, this no nose was completely coked up and was trying to do pics with me, most disgusting asshole in time.
This is the one who recommended red shoes for office, ( Ronald McDonald does)View attachment 5023

This is the bankster who scammed me 600.000 euros and did to millions of people, dressed by a similar house.

THE SHILL SAYS, PERFECT, I DON´T SEE ANY WRINKLE.- ( JAJAJAJA, SEE THE SLEEVES, TROUSERS ETC) SEE HOW THIS SHILLS LIE TO GET FREE GARMENTS.

See this tacky shill on a horrible square Langa te tanga jacket, his tacky socks and poor man shoes ( it seems until today, he hasn´t find any shoemaker to shill to get free shoes, so he walks with a 59 euros ugly ones)

Also pay attention, that to dress well for this tacky bloggers, is to mix all kind of patterns at once, as bold stripes on the suit, and checkered socks. This is the school and club of tackyness of the Arstocrat, our official buffon on Naples and this are his two wannabes. Pay attention to the ZARA tie the shill is wearing, and now I am talking as real Neapolitan tiemaker. This is absolute cheapo crap.

View attachment 5029

This no nose shill has written a book of, attention, how to dress.

jajajaa


Note how poor Langa was, that he was unable to pattern match the most easy cake in the world, this bold stripe on shoulder and sleeve.

Now a video of this faker, he said, the most important is to be AUTENTIC, but he is a faker,

`Pay attention, he is scary, damn junky!

Conferencia en la Ciudad de la Cultura de Santiago de Compostela | Vestirse por los pies



. | Vestirse por los pies

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

Edited;
I think Robertito is close friend of the shill, as the shoe brand i think he works for is shilling on his blog

Carlos Santos Shoes Portuguese, not Spanish.

Please give your opinion about, me after being fan of Green and being friend of the master shoe maker of the amazing Kiton shoes, can´t do at this time, for Christian charity i mean. If Crapmina is poor, wait to see this...

Note, are also shilled by one of the most disgusting BLOGGERS, Gianni Fontana, i also said to him personally what i tHought about him and his PROFANATIONS ABOUT CLASSIC STYLE. As you all know, this degenerate is also blacklisted on the serious tailoring world. Just a tacky histrionic wannabe of Lino Lettuce.

Now, the shill of before, on the horrible poorly fitted suit of my previous post. Now he is trying to get for free some pairs for the shilling. Note the Spanish sleeves, were not two, but three people fit on it, see the trouser, a guide of how to avoid on making a trouser.

Note, this weirdo pleats he commisioned on the sleeve. Of course he deserves to be on this section, fakers who also happens to be TACKYS, also note having 3 buttons only.

( Note, the two Spanish shill wannabe arstocrat are commissioning pleats on the sleeve and that weird pleat on the scye i expossed a few days ago)

 

[ConchitaWurst]

On the NYTIMES, they do an article about Naples, and feature a poor untailor called Davide Toffani, poor poor, and Tackynacci.

crap

New York Times: Napoli è il paradiso della sartoria | Napoli da Vivere

wai not mention that the third manufacturer mention is kiton. shall we name them shiton henceforward? they can't be taken serious if mentioned together with these two others.

 

[Scherensammler]

wai not mention that the third manufacturer mention is kiton. shall we name them shiton henceforward? they can't be taken serious if mentioned together with these two others.

I've been wondering the same thing... Evil Simon has several blog entries about them.

If so, then only because of Luca Tackynacci. Davide Tofani is a second generation Neapolitan tailor and I haven't seen anything tacky on his FB page, plus he hasn't been featured on the big shillers' blogs. No need to call him Davide Profani...

Since I'm new to the SdN rage and hate thing, why are the Spanish bespoke tailors getting so much Flak?
Surely, it can't just be the sleeves or the styling and pattern matching of their suits. It's what they do and their customers seem to be quite happy with that. Plus I'm sure that even the honest and noble tailors in Naples make for some customers that are at least a bit dubious.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

I've been wondering the same thing... Evil Simon has several blog entries about them.

If so, then only because of Luca Tackynacci. Davide Tofani is a second generation Neapolitan tailor and I haven't seen anything tacky on his FB page, plus he hasn't been featured on the big shillers' blogs. No need to call him Davide Profani...

Since I'm new to the SdN rage and hate thing, why are the Spanish bespoke tailors getting so much Flak?
Surely, it can't just be the sleeves or the styling and pattern matching of their suits. It's what they do and their customers seem to be quite happy with that. Plus I'm sure that even the honest and noble tailors in Naples make for some customers that are at least a bit dubious.

Note sure of this answer is trolling, malicious or ignorace, or all at once. Will start demounting.

Davide is a POOR tailor, one of the worst i have ever seen, all what i have seen has wrong proportions, is ugly and bad. I regret having met him as well.

2 He is the second generation, well since when does it means is good? I am not the second but the third after my grandpa was the biggest woman industrial shoemaker of the last century on the country, and i got any idea about making women shoes ( or even want, even i worked there as international seller etc, since i was a teen).

3 The Spanish tailors abuse of the fact there is no sartorial culture, to scam their poorly cutted and violating all the tailoring rules they ignore ( huge and low armholes were 3 fit on it etc), dares to say they beat Savile or Naples, or use the names of their famous clients to hook ignorants. This bloggers and their tacky ignorant followers ( from the blog corned sissys) will buy everything they shill leaders, craptom, arstocrat, unbuttoned and this no nose one will feature on their vomiting blogs. Bloggers are guilty and corrupted inmorals, also main tackys.

4 The fact of the client being happy, doesn´t means he got a correct garment. Example, Foo or all the Rubinacci clients, paying a fortune for a defective and ugly garment. Brand whores are called.For 15 years on Spain, wearing crapmani, meant the most of the most, and remember is a fused jacket with an industrial value of 150 euros sold by 1500, their shirts are simply awful and cost circa 300, and more if got a visible and huge logo on the breast.

 

[Scherensammler]

If one of your arguments against Armani (and other luxury brands) is value for money it could easily be applied to high end, fully canvassed garments made in Italy. Kiton, Attolini, Brioni and others are more expensive than most bespoke tailors in Italy and the UK. Granted, a great deal of the mark-up comes from the shops selling their stuff, but the prices vary little between boutiques/ retailers and the company stores.

Davide is a POOR tailor, one of the worst i have ever seen, all what i have seen has wrong proportions, is ugly and bad. I regret having met him as well.

Taste is hardly ever objective, if one looks long and hard enough one can find fault in everything. My guess is that his prices are not on Rubinacci, Panico. Sabino (other tailors available) level, plus he's a two guys operation. Which means that low price and limited output require a more streamlined production. And about the regret, I'm sure it's mutual.

abuse of the fact there is no sartorial culture, to scam their poorly cutted and violating all the tailoring rules they ignore ( huge and low armholes were 3 fit on it etc), dares to say they beat Savile or Naples, or use the names of their famous clients to hook ignorants.

And that doesn't happen elsewhere?

AFAIK, this type of coat is called "Americana" in Spanish, so my guess is that this style has been "imported" at some point in history, when jackets were wide and had deep armholes and big sleeves (most likely in the USA). Just because you don't like it or prefer higher armholes doesn't make it wrong. It's just different to other styles.
The one thing we could agree on is the execution and the fit in some areas, but again, a personal matter.

 

[Russell Street]

...also note having 3 buttons only.

( Note, the two Spanish shill wannabe arstocrat are commissioning pleats on the sleeve and that weird pleat on the scye i expossed a few days ago)
View attachment 5034 View attachment 5035

I like 3 buttons on my cuff, but I'm a shorty.
WTF is that sleeve stuff? And why is the buttonhole so teardrop shaped? I fear that LKP would not approve.

 

[Scherensammler]

WTF is that sleeve stuff? And why is the buttonhole so teardrop shaped? I fear that LKP would not approve.

It's an interesting detail, but nothing more. I find it adds unnecessary bulk to the sleeve cuff and makes alterations impossible (and yes, his sleeves are very short). About the tear drop shape: Perhaps he tried to copy Kiton? The ones I've seen from them weren't much better.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

If one of your arguments against Armani (and other luxury brands) is value for money it could easily be applied to high end, fully canvassed garments made in Italy. Kiton, Attolini, Brioni and others are more expensive than most bespoke tailors in Italy and the UK. Granted, a great deal of the mark-up comes from the shops selling their stuff, but the prices vary little between boutiques/ retailers and the company stores.



Taste is hardly ever objective, if one looks long and hard enough one can find fault in everything. My guess is that his prices are not on Rubinacci, Panico. Sabino (other tailors available) level, plus he's a two guys operation. Which means that low price and limited output require a more streamlined production. And about the regret, I'm sure it's mutual.



And that doesn't happen elsewhere?

AFAIK, this type of coat is called "Americana" in Spanish, so my guess is that this style has been "imported" at some point in history, when jackets were wide and had deep armholes and big sleeves (most likely in the USA). Just because you don't like it or prefer higher armholes doesn't make it wrong. It's just different to other styles.
The one thing we could agree on is the execution and the fit in some areas, but again, a personal matter.

Can the mods ban this troll who only came to bother me, offend the Truth and troll? This is not German but one of my usual tacky haters ( presumible from the Corned Sissy forums), note how he also tried to desacreditate Kiton, sure a true asstroll and ignorant, that only to try to descredit me, on his deep ignorance, invents facts as this huge style imported by the Spanish tailors.

The true, ignored by this asstroll, is that Spanish was quite similar to Neapolitan tailoring , until the end of the 70s, where the good tailors trained in UK, Switzerland and Italy died, and only rest the 5 or 6 untailors i mean all the time, that got any idea of tailoring.

English ( so American) tailoring books from 1899, rules; the armhole MUST be as high as possible. PERIOD.

Also are not wrong as you say those suits plenty of wrinkles, where the rule number 2 of any tailor is to do wrinkeless garments, wherever his style is, not happens on any Madrid tailor.

This asstroll got again the owned of his low life.

 

[Scherensammler]

Also are not wrong as you say those suits plenty of wrinkles, where the rule number 2 of any tailor is to do wrinkeless garments, wherever his style is, not happens on any Madrid tailor.

So what is a manica mappina/ camicia? A non wrinkle-less sleeve?
BTW, there was a style change at the end of the 1980's. That's when almost everybody made wide and loose jackets with deep armholes and wide shoulders. They actually changed their pattern system for this, which is why a lot of the RTW stuff is so messed up even today.

Again, it's easy to criticize. Since you call yourself a tailor I think it's time you step up and show us samples of what you can do.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

So what is a manica mappina/ camicia? A non wrinkle-less sleeve?
BTW, there was a style change at the end of the 1980's. That's when almost everybody made wide and loose jackets with deep armholes and wide shoulders. They actually changed their pattern system for this, which is why a lot of the RTW stuff is so messed up even today.

Again, it's easy to criticize. Since you call yourself a tailor I think it's time you step up and show us samples of what you can do.

This asstroll is nothing but a mad manipulator who has any idea! The change was at the beginning of the 80s, not at the end of the 80s.

I can´t stand this pedant ignorants.

I never said i am a tailor but student, what i am already is shirtmaker. And because you and other similar ghey assholes bother all the time trying to desacreditate me, i laugh on you and humillate you with your own words all the time. OWNED again.

Beat this crap, he also sayd he os over Savile or Naples. The untailor of the ex King of Spain. Absolute tailoring crap.