friend customer's advanced euro member thread

belinmad said:
Golia, Capelli
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shirts and ties totally different game


belinmad said:
Cerrato
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no experience with the lord of pantaloni on spanish quarter. His insta very amusing

belinmad said:
If the better standard comes from serving international clients, then great, that's what Mimmo should be doing too (by the way he has plenty of international clients and does not shut up about them either). I imagine he would like to keep on making money with his business, right?
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Int’l clients doesn’t equal int’l business standards.
 
Well the other tailors you mention do have serious international followings and outlooks concerning their business. There are many tailors in naples who have close to zero international clients. Mimmo is sort of caught in the middle. He has a handful of international clients that do seek him out for his somewhat unique cut, but he personally does not have the business sense to capture a larger piece of the market. Unlike the others you name he does not have younger family members working with him, setting up insta accounts, working with the cromptons of the world and addressing the needs of international clients. He has also made bad decisions in the past associating with gianni cerrutti, mr raro and other scoundrels. I do agree that price fluctuation are standard business practice over there. But they do work both ways, if one is giving steady business or bringing over new clients, one can negotiate a lower price.
 
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ASSHAT said:
Well the other tailors you mention do have serious international followings and outlooks concerning their business. There are many tailors in naples who have close to zero international clients. Mimmo is sort of caught in the middle. He has a handful of international clients that do seek him out for his somewhat unique cut, but he personally does not have the business sense to capture a larger piece of the market. Unlike the others you name he does not have younger family members working with him, setting up insta accounts, working with the cromptons of the world and addressing the needs of international clients. He has also made bad decisions in the past associating with gianni cerrutti, mr raro and other scoundrels. I do agree that price fluctuation are standard business practice over there. But they do work both ways, if one is giving steady business and bringing over new clients, one can negotiate a lower price.
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This makes sense to me. He seems to be a bit of a one of a kind, both stylistically as well as business-wise
 
Walter said:
shirts and ties totally different game




no experience with the lord of pantaloni on spanish quarter. His insta very amusing



Int’l clients doesn’t equal int’l business standards.
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thanks again for these invaluable pieces of Wisdom.
 
belinmad said:
This makes sense to me. He seems to be a bit of a one of a kind, both stylistically as well as business-wise
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Ololololo. Now all of a sudden you do understand that price fluctuation is the norm on napels.

Nvm. Carry on chasing the bugs around the world.
 
belinmad said:
This makes sense to me. He seems to be a bit of a one of a kind, both stylistically as well as business-wise
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stylistically he is definitely a bit of a one off. Im not really aware of other tailors on naples that regularly do the pagoda shoulder (spalla insellata) as part of their “house style”. Obviously a handful of other tailors around the world do it, but usually with enormous amounts of padding. Mimmos is somewhat unique in that zero padding is used to achieve this effect.
 
ASSHAT said:
stylistically he is definitely a bit of a one off. Im not really aware of other tailors on naples that regularly do the pagoda shoulder (spalla insellata) as part of their “house style”. Obviously a handful of other tailors around the world do it, but usually with enormous amounts of padding. Mimmos is somewhat unique in that zero padding is used to achieve this effect.
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This time I will share with you the experience I had in meeting the teacher Domenico Pirozzi of Naples. But it is not the Pirozzi that everyone knows. It has the same name but in my opinion, this of which I speak , is much better . Indeed, for me is one of signposting Neapolitan tailors . I say this after having tried several .

He is not famous and do not even want to become. He is the only one in Naples that is built like a jacket at the end of 1800. That is when the big tailors had not yet invented the Neapolitan jacket we all know.

His tailoring is located in the center of Naples. E ' in a building of 700 in Via Chiaia 197.

I approached him about a year ago. I did it because seeing his jacket to wear one of my clients was struck . That jacket was perfect . Then my client introduced me to the Master Domenico Pirozzi .

Its cut and its processing are unique. Often the jacket in great dressmakers passes through 10 different hands . And so the jacket runs the risk of losing personality. In short, the more the jacket goes into different hands and becomes more of a jacket package.

Pirozzi instead he does it all . From beginning to end . And he does it with passion and profession. What he does ask . It makes you saddled the shoulder , the shoulder-to- shoulder shirt and overturned. But with a unique class .

This is because it is not enough to cut and sew fabric hand . Otherwise they would be able to everyone. Instead Pirozzi is able to convey a touch of genius that makes each piece special. And when I'm down the street with his dress often people turn around. I say this because often Apita .

Then his two breasts are the most beautiful I've ever seen in my life . They make you feel like a king even when you're not !

To understand what I'm saying I want to show pictures of my double realize that I have done recently.

The fabric I bought from Il Vecchio Drappiere of Milan. It ' a shop that specializes in vintage fabrics for clothing. See that this is a fabric that has more than 50 years.

Look at the shoulders, neck and all the details of processing.
 
ASSHAT said:
stylistically he is definitely a bit of a one off. Im not really aware of other tailors on naples that regularly do the pagoda shoulder (spalla insellata) as part of their “house style”. Obviously a handful of other tailors around the world do it, but usually with enormous amounts of padding. Mimmos is somewhat unique in that zero padding is used to achieve this effect.
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Yep, this is what led me to commission a suit with him in the first place. I have a video or two of him building a spalla insellata, just with the iron and the basic structure we puts together on the cloth, I'll try to post it if I find it. But it's a curiosity, isn't it? You wouldn't build a whole wardrobe of spalla insellata suits...
 
belinmad said:
Yep, this is what led me to commission a suit with him in the first place. I have a video or two of him building a spalla insellata, just with the iron and the basic structure we puts together on the cloth, I'll try to post it if I find it. But it's a curiosity, isn't it? You wouldn't build a whole wardrobe of spalla insellata suits...
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indeed. It will perfectly fit in your cabinet of sartorial curiosities
 
belinmad said:
Yep, this is what led me to commission a suit with him in the first place. I have a video or two of him building a spalla insellata, just with the iron and the basic structure we puts together on the cloth, I'll try to post it if I find it. But it's a curiosity, isn't it? You wouldn't build a whole wardrobe of spalla insellata suits...
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i guess some like s. parisi do. But it really depends on how extreme he does it especially the sleeve head. If its not too built up with all the wrinkles, it really doesnt look that different from a standard shoulder. In any event he can do the other shoulder styles as well.

a very extreme version (not me):
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me in a more mild version:

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ASSHAT said:
A classic spalla insellata

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The great thing is really his hand in the cut and shape the fabric. The fabric in his hands becomes like a stone in the hands of a sculptor. The stitching you like a second skin.

And this fabric is fantastic. Both fabrics have found them by VecchioDrappiere of Milan. They are very specialized in vintage. And you think that this fabric of the jacket that you see is an old Zegna in 1950. It 'really fantastic.

The pants are a surprise instead. I'm always in wool vintage. I've always found the VecchioDrappiere of Milan. Even that is a Zegna in 1950.

Next week I'm going to do the second test Pirozzi ... I can not wait to be over. I will show you the pictures of the second test ... so you will also discover the pants.

What do you think?
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Walter has stated he is from Austria. Or is that just fake like the rest of him?
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How come you consider these people Ceasare and Walter part of a pack of trolls of which i am member yet you seem to take everything they say literally at face value. Except when it comes to my comments about my vintage ties and cloth. At best you are a naive man. I thought you liked to dig deeper for the truth, alternative sources and the like.
 
ASSHAT said:
How come you consider these people Ceasare and Walter part of a pack of trolls of which i am member yet you seem to take everything they say literally at face value. Except when it comes to my comments about my vintage ties and cloth. At best you are a naive man.
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It is an internet forum. When people make statements on the maestros of Napoli about their experiences and need to display you're not a bespoke tourist and such like, I take it at face value but with a pinch of salt.

What comments have I made about you - as Asshat - about your vintage ties and cloth?
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
It is an internet forum. When people make statements on the maestros of Napoli about their experiences and need to display you're not a bespoke tourist and such like, I take it at face value but with a pinch of salt.
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Is it part of your therapy at Dorestad - Parnassia, that they let you post here?
 
ASSHAT said:
i don’t know about that being part of his therapy , but they should definitely consider limiting his access to you tube.
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You run with the herd son. In the echo chamber of this little arena, you might think you have some status.

But your ad hominem shows that you're not really a player, certainly not a Big Daddy.

FNB is a Big Daddy, you slagged him off too. A day or two ago.

Do you think he would lower himself to engage with the likes of me at this level? He's too self assured of where he is at. Clearly you're not.


Walter said:
View attachment 34984
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Whilst I know definitely you are not English...lacking in the breed of good sportsmanship and the game.

I do believe you posted very recently on here, there were two types of Austrians, the ignorant country folk who looked to Hungary and you the urban Johnny Lobb Paris type who looked to the west? You were of course in the latter. Being an unrepentant gs urban snob.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
You run with the herd son. In the echo chamber of this little arena, you might think you have some status.

But your ad hominem shows that you're not really a player, certainly not a Big Daddy.

FNB is a Big Daddy, you slagged him off too. A day or two ago.

Do you think he would lower himself to engage with the likes of me at this level? He's too self assured of where he is at. Clearly you're not.




Whilst I know definitely you are not English...lacking in the breed of good sportsmanship and the game.

I do believe you posted very recently on here, there were two types of Austrians, the ignorant country folk who looked to Hungary and you the urban Johnny Lobb Paris type who looked to the west? You were of course in the latter. Being an unrepentant gs urban snob.
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You really have a reading comprehension problem. Never claimed to be a big daddy. Never slagged off FNB either, but please quote me if you can find it. You are certainly correct though, no point in engaging someone of your low level and unstable personality. FNB probably wouldn’t engage with you, but he certainly did slag off morons over on SF commissioning hopsack suits.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Keep scouring the internet, dig deep.

And when you grow some balls post your own sartorial vision.

Which is clear, being spineless, you'll never do.
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Firstly thats a picture of güero güero . Secondly i have posted many of my pictures, even in this thread. If you cant determine my sartorial vision from them thats your problem. You are really losing it son and its becoming a bit tiring correcting you.

i am also well aware of your sartorial vision, which i find somewhat interesting, its the execution of your vision which i find very lacking (bordering on pitiful).
 
ASSHAT said:
You really have a reading comprehension problem. Never claimed to be a big daddy. Never slagged off FNB either, but please quote me if you can find it. You are certainly correct though, no point in engaging someone of your low level and unstable personality. FNB probably wouldn’t engage with you, but he certainly did slag off morons over on SF commissioning hopsack suits.
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Are you a bunch of secondary school teachers in the real world? No one talks about ''reading comprehension problems'' unless they're teaching kids, or their mothers. And you keep on going back to it and restating so clearly it's you or your herds bag or job.

You did slag FNB off because he had an ebay store. You gloated over it and what kind of person would lower themselves to do that, what would they get from it? In your pompous superior tone. You don't really understand some people like to do that, even though they might not need the money. It's a hobby and a rewarding one at that.

Unlike you with me, I don't think enough of any of you to scour your past posts or avatars for evidence of your twisted characters. If it's to hand, yes, otherwise, my memory is good enough.

ASSHAT said:
Firstly thats a picture of güero güero . Secondly i have posted many of my pictures, even in this thread. If you cant determine my sartorial vision from them thats your problem. You are really losing it son and its becoming a bit tiring correcting you.

i am also well aware of your sartorial vision, which i find somewhat interesting, its the execution of your vision which i find very lacking (bordering on pitiful).
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Sorry, I can't tell the difference between two arseholes in a herd and a pack.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
FNB is a Big Daddy, you slagged him off too. A day or two ago.

Do you think he would lower himself to engage with the likes of me at this level? He's too self assured of where he is at.
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ASSHAT said:
FNB probably wouldn’t engage with you, but he certainly did slag off morons over on SF commissioning hopsack suits.
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“Film Noir Buff” said:
I don't know why you think the first element is a factor for cloth choice but if that gets you off, then awesome. And if the second point reads "stuble" then yeah, it's a good fabric choice. If you meant "subtle" then wearing hopsack for a suit is a good way to subtly place oneself as a sanitation worker wearing his Sunday best.
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olololololo fnb engaging on sf with ultra low life tats teacher rob / nyr / ny islander


:ahahahaha: :ahahahaha: :ahahahaha:
 
Pimpernel Smith Pimpernel Smith demonstrating his high sartorial iq and sartorial vision. This is no sorry office drone in a sad little uniform. This is a man who blazes his own trail, maintains that spark of Englishness while living abroad among the continental savages and commands respect in the board room without drawing unwanted attention.

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check the subtle fit of his clothes, the beautiful lapels, the hints of color, the impressive shirt and tie combinations. And the most impressive detail, the contrast color button hole, a perfect and subtle bespoke detail. WOW.
 
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ASSHAT said:
Pimpernel Smith Pimpernel Smith demonstrating his high sartorial iq and sartorial vision. This is no sorry office drone in a sad little uniform. This is a man who blazes his own trail, maintains that spark of Englishness while living abroad among the continental savages and commands respect in the board room without drawing unwanted attention.

View attachment 34987View attachment 34988View attachment 34989

check the subtle fit of his clothes, the beautiful lapels, the hints of color, the impressive shirt and tie combinations. WOW.
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I love it, keep digging, keep going...make it all about me!

Because it certainly isn't any longer about your sartorial vision, is it? Not that it ever was.

Your little gaggle doesn't really exist. Yes, you'll get some traction for a time on here with baloney about only going to maestros of Napoli who deal internationally (utter BS by the way), or those who have a side door for the bespoke players, but you will never get the kudos of the London tailors.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
I love it, keep digging, keep going...make it all about me!

Because it certainly isn't any longer about your sartorial vision, is it? Not that it ever was.

Your little gaggle doesn't really exist. Yes, you'll get some traction for a time on here with baloney about only going to maestros of Napoli who deal internationally (utter BS by the way), or those who have a side door for the bespoke players, but you will never get the kudos of the London tailors.
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I don’t know, my London tailor seems to like me.
 
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