Pimpernel Smith
Tone Deaf Daddy
- Messages
- 10,809
Didn't think Santoni where that expensive to begin with.
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Didn't think Santoni where that expensive to begin with.
Why do these brands still insist on the tiny button down collars? Even Bernie Sanders wears a longer collared OCBD.The Best Men’s Button-Up Shirts
There may be no harder-working staple than the humble button-up shirt. Here are the five sturdiest, softest, and most stylish we found.www.nytimes.com
you are completely devoid of personality.Why do these brands still insist on the tiny button down collars? Even Bernie Sanders wears a longer collared OCBD.
The Best Men’s Button-Up Shirts
There may be no harder-working staple than the humble button-up shirt. Here are the five sturdiest, softest, and most stylish we found.www.nytimes.com
"Why you should trust us
I’m a style writer, which means I compare, test, and report on wearable items. To prepare for this guide, I talked with friends about their favorite button-up shirts. I brushed up on the difference between button-up shirts and button-down shirts. I learned about dress shirts, Oxford button-downs, and linen shirts (as well as Zoom shirts). I spent a month obsessing over minute features that distinguish one shirt from another. After separating the wheat from the chaff during my personal testing, I put together a diverse panel of testers to give me feedback on the best button-up shirts"
Ok.you are completely devoid of personality.
Eh? People really seem to have got stupider over the last 20 years, like how every black leather shoe is now an 'Oxford'. Can they really not distinguish attributes anymore?I’m a style writer, which means I compare, test, and report on wearable items. To prepare for this guide, I talked with friends about their favorite button-up shirts. I brushed up on the difference between button-up shirts and button-down shirts.
One of the reasons I thought it was interesting.Eh? People really seem to have got stupider over the last 20 years, like how every black leather shoe is now an 'Oxford'. Can they really not distinguish attributes anymore?
"Why you should trust us
I’m a style writer, which means I compare, test, and report on wearable items. To prepare for this guide, I talked with friends about their favorite button-up shirts. I brushed up on the difference between button-up shirts and button-down shirts. I learned about dress shirts, Oxford button-downs, and linen shirts (as well as Zoom shirts). I spent a month obsessing over minute features that distinguish one shirt from another. After separating the wheat from the chaff during my personal testing, I put together a diverse panel of testers to give me feedback on the best button-up shirts"
Had noticed that T&A had started to do women's ranges on line, a sure sign that they need a bigger audience, also their labels inside the shirt are now a little bit cheaper, just one colour. Think it will be difficult for them to get traction globally for ladies in the haute cauture.Seems like a no brainer:
Can these women save Savile Row?
https://www.ft.com/content/0516de77-ee67-4d8d-98bc-95890b19c26e
“I wanted to create this really welcoming, beautiful space for women – an unintimidating, cosy environment that was light and bright,” says Daisy Knatchbull of The Deck, the made-to-measure tailoring house she launched in 2019. Based on Savile Row, the atelier has cream and dark-blue walls, inviting plush furnishings and tables strewn with huge white hydrangeas, Diptyque candles and glossy magazines. It’s a far cry from the oak-panelled rooms adorned with gilded antiques and stags’ heads that have colonised this muscular mile of tailoring for gentlemen that has existed for more than two centuries. Sales of men’s suits in Britain have plummeted by 2.3m units over the past five years, according to market research firm Kantar. The shifts in workwear trends alongside the pandemic, combined with high overheads and a decline in tourist numbers, have left Savile Row in a state of perilous decline. Kilgour, Hardy Amies and Chester Barrie have closed their Savile Row stores in recent years (although some retain an online presence). Gieves & Hawkes, one of the world’s most prestigious tailors that once boasted Charlie Chaplin and Winston Churchill as clients, seems at risk of closing permanently after its parent company was put into liquidation. Could expanding its services to women help save the endangered Savile Row?
The shop is a bit more eclectic than just being the home of the Ivy League style in London and the UK. If not, Europe. The modernist art prints add to the cluttered charm.Cult Shop: the home of Ivy League style in London
https://www.ft.com/content/9ec5b7d9-5c67-41a6-85d9-9984534a3323
For most professions, I think it's gone now, the hybrid working finally killed it. You've got events, etc, where a suit is desirable. But in that article, there's blood on the carpet everywhere in the suit and booted game. And decent shoes are going the same way, at street level hardly anyone's wearing anything other than white trainers/sneakers. Even my accountant comes trotting into the office with his Greve sneakers.The end of the suit: has Covid finished off the menswear staple?
While formal clothing was already in decline in the years before the pandemic, working from home has accelerated the trend, and in the office smart casual ruleswww.theguardian.com
TL;DR: No.
i absolutely disagree with this sentiment.But at the same time, I think the number of people who are becoming interested in traditional men's style is increasing.
this i agree withIndeed, we have this forum, whose ostensible purpose is to call out the false shepards and sirens who beckon new converts to their tackiness and shillery.
i absolutely disagree with this sentiment.
Well, remember that this is not in absolute terms. More people are leaving than coming overall. But the number of people coming seems to be increasing over time. How else do you explain the success of the channels that I mentioned? Even shoe polishing and repair channels have become really popular, which is another gateway.i absolutely disagree with this sentiment.
It waxes and wanes. I think we probably don't have the burst of the late aughts going, but I think there is a noticeable uptick since a few years ago when Foo went Patagonia vest on us.
Well, remember that this is not in absolute terms. More people are leaving than coming overall. But the number of people coming seems to be increasing over time. How else do you explain the success of the channels that I mentioned? Even shoe polishing and repair channels have become really popular, which is another gateway.
The plight of classic menswear retailers and tailors would speak otherwise.Well, remember that this is not in absolute terms. More people are leaving than coming overall. But the number of people coming seems to be increasing over time. How else do you explain the success of the channels that I mentioned? Even shoe polishing and repair channels have become really popular, which is another gateway.
Enough with the WFH sweatpants. Dress like the adult you're getting paid to be
Why it's time to put away the cargo shorts and yoga pants and find your shoes.www.latimes.com
The writer was, and still is getting absolutely roasted on Twitter. This was my favorite one that just resurfaced:
its less a matter of schlubiness and more the weather i think. its hot here all the time. the people in offices wear suits, sure. if i go into a professional building i'll see a ton of suit wearers. short of that the only time i see suit wearers at night is if its the people who are coming directly from work or its some kind of funeral. i was in a ruth's chris on the weekend recently and i saw more hawaiian shirts than even sports jackets.But what else do you see? Grand Potentate sees shlubs everywhere he looks. Not surprising because the general public has always dressed like schlubs. Most men who wear suits are schlubs.
Well duh
In the UK and here in the Netherlands it started later in the 90s. My accountant when he started in the early 90s, it was still all pinstripe suits and if you didn't have any you'd be told to get some or hit the road. Now all of that's gone. In my sector it started to go in the mid 90s, it some organisations the directors still wear suits, likely sans tie, but below they don't.Here is pic from the death of suits article of a chap at Poole sewing a jacket. Maybe a doghouse jacket? What jumps out at you?
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You can't measure up someone in their house but you can in a hotel room on a US junket? Savile Row shops were contracting out way before COVID.
The workplace was becoming less formal and suits falling out of favour for a while and it is no longer the default office outfit. It has been marginalized but that started in the '60s.
It's fast fashion at all price levels. Bad baby poo tan shoes with curled up pointy toes are still ubiquitous indeed.In the UK and here in the Netherlands it started later in the 90s. My accountant when he started in the early 90s, it was still all pinstripe suits and if you didn't have any you'd be told to get some or hit the road. Now all of that's gone. In my sector it started to go in the mid 90s, it some organisations the directors still wear suits, likely sans tie, but below they don't.
Then you have the young professional, likely in a big consultancy, or Big Four type organisation - they'll be getting their suits from Suitsupply. And it shows as they're the house style i.e. tight fitting, too small and yes, undistinguished cloth, the scuffed tan shoe look. It's ubiquitous here, among a certain stereotype.
The Dutch Prime Minister, Mark Rutte, get's his suits from Oger. They're one of the few men's outfitters ''tailors'' doing well here in the Netherlands. Where they make their money is selling to footballers - they create several complete looks/outfits and go and visit them at home and then they buy 10 of them for top dollar. They're not suits, it's off-the-peg street wear.
The suit died in the UK - or at least became moribund- during the financial crisis, when it was 'death to all wanker-bankers'.
Full Patagonia Vest...?!?!?!?It waxes and wanes. I think we probably don't have the burst of the late aughts going, but I think there is a noticeable uptick since a few years ago when Foo went Patagonia vest on us.