The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Dropbear

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Definitely not growing on me, especially the dented toes.

They remind me of the boots that 1910s cosplayer who used to be a member here would wear - was it LelandJ? He loved expensive boots that cost $1000 but looked as though they'd been worn by a coalminer or a peasant farmer.

Yeh, I’ll admit that the soft toe is something I’m less sure about. Vintage engineer boots are all like that. I don’t think they started using celastic until the late 1950s.

The soft toe gives it a really nice side profile for those all important Instagram pics. But in real life the only person who sees it from that angle is the dude passed out drunk on the floor.
 

Thruth

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Definitely not growing on me, especially the dented toes.

They remind me of the boots that 1910s cosplayer who used to be a member here would wear - was it LelandJ? He loved expensive boots that cost $1000 but looked as though they'd been worn by a coalminer or a peasant farmer.
Leland like Guidi

1622253819446.png
 

The Shooman

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'Other than the absence of these shoes fitting you, they are the same as bespoke and only cost $4,000. '

OMG. There really are mugs born every minute.
The close cut waist of the Gaziano & Girling still doesn't look near as good as the bespoke waists due to the nature of the rtw last. See how there is still a gap and the shape is very flat above the close cut waist. I notice these things, it will never quite have the bespoke shape.
image_2021-05-29_130322.png



the rtw waist treatment is obvious here. Flat and not curved in with an extra close cut waist like numerous bespoke shoes have. Still a great effort, but the true bespoke look will never be achieved on a rtw last. Just saying.
Gaziano & Girling optimum waist 1.jpg
 

Sammy Ambrose

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The close cut waist of the Gaziano & Girling still doesn't look near as good as the bespoke waists due to the nature of the rtw last. See how there is still a gap and the shape is very flat above the close cut waist. I notice these things, it will never quite have the bespoke shape.
View attachment 38458


the rtw waist treatment is obvious here. Flat and not curved in with an extra close cut waist like numerous bespoke shoes have. Still a great effort, but the true bespoke look will never be achieved on a rtw last. Just saying.
View attachment 38459
Kirby needs to be cautioned then. He is misleading those who might go for the Optimum. Prince Charles visited G&G. Perhaps we could find a way of getting him to stop pestering Johnny Lobb to patch his footwear and find some time to get on to G&G and tell them that Kirby is shilling their shoes but spreading misinformation.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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Herring Carlisle.( Sanders Fakenham with a triple sole. )
20210529_091254.jpg


Took a little breaking in but now stones and broken glass have learnt to keep out of the way.
 

Dropbear

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Definitely not growing on me, especially the dented toes.

They remind me of the boots that 1910s cosplayer who used to be a member here would wear - was it LelandJ? He loved expensive boots that cost $1000 but looked as though they'd been worn by a coalminer or a peasant farmer.

OK, speaking of soft toe boots. Here is the pair of 1950s Chippewa boots allegedly worn by James Dean and Brass Tokyo’s modern repro.
6F39D038-B905-44CC-89CD-F96C1BAB9E2C.jpeg
1E75EF4A-F8BD-4404-AAE9-889EE4348B3E.jpeg


Again, nice side profile that no one but the drunk sees. and I would actually be nervous spending a few grand on those boots and the toe box feeling too low for comfort.

D1770EBE-707A-48C8-B742-921DDC8073AB.jpeg
B2E8B0B7-3C80-462B-A140-63A7016321F7.jpeg
 
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The Shooman

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Simply amazing S Sammy Ambrose , you are very lucky. Have you taken any blokes under your wing and taught them the ways of shoomen?

I suspect many young blokes look up to you and think, "gee...this bloke is amazing".

You have many pairs. Wow.
 

Dropbear

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Peng always sends a special little gift with each custom shoe order. Often a belt, wallet or little Chinese nicknack. This one was next level:

 

Sammy Ambrose

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Topped twice? Must be worn a lot in that case.

I miss Woolworths stick on soles. I have had to reglue them occasionally but they never wore through. On one occasion when one fell off I removed both and now use the shoes for gardening.
After a while a Topy or Vibram sole guard loses its rough surface and the soles become as slippery as leather on marble or polished ceramic and either need to be roughened again or replaced.

The Woolies' stick- ons had to be cut and were a bit thicker than a topy as I remember. I think I did it once but I'm afraid my cobbling skills were not even premature baby Daddy level.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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I’ve got a few Loakes, and I think Herrings (did they make some for Herring?) on the 026 last. It’s one of the best fits for me.
Yes. The Loake Exeter brogues became Herring Richmond. Herring also did an ankle boot called Stratford on the 026 last. Don't know if that was just rebadging or only made for Herring.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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I’ve got a few Loakes, and I think Herrings (did they make some for Herring?) on the 026 last. It’s one of the best fits for me.
The Loake 026 last is a comfortable last for me and my foot fits acceptably . But a last which is equally comfy but is as close to bespoke for me as I need to become is the Sargent 109 which is waisted ideally for me. Here are shoes made on both lasts.
SmartSelectImage_2021-06-03-17-41-24.png
SmartSelectImage_2021-06-03-17-42-42.png
 

Kingstonian

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The Woolies' stick- ons had to be cut and were a bit thicker than a topy as I remember. I think I did it once but I'm afraid my cobbling skills were not even premature baby Daddy level.
The original Woolies stick-ons were sold pre-cut by size. No cutting necessary. Also included small rasp to rough up shoe leather and tube of glue.

There were later one-size-fits-all stick-ons that had to be cut to size. They were no good at all.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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I have the Loake Kempton chukka on an 026 last.
Does anyone know how shoe makers come to a decision about last shapes? Do they study human feet?

I have a couple of pairs of Loakes made in India. One last is called London and the other Claridge. Posh names.

I wonder if we could persuade a maker to do a Crusty last, or even a Shooman last? And would they sell?
 

fxh

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Yes. The Loake Exeter brogues became Herring Richmond. Herring also did an ankle boot called Stratford on the 026 last. Don't know if that was just rebadging or only made for Herring.
I have two pairs of Stratford, one black one brown, had them for years. Super comfortable. Give me great ankle support which I need.
 

fxh

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I have the Loake Kempton chukka on an 026 last.
Yeah I have that in dark brown suede.

A case of a shoe looking better in the real world than it does in advertisements. That’s true of all mine on 026.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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I have two pairs of Stratford, one black one brown, had them for years. Super comfortable. Give me great ankle support which I need.
I bought a black and a brown Stratford in 2014. At one time I would routinely buy a black and a brown of a shoe, but that's a habit I've luckily broken now. With the Stratfords they were on sale at half price.

The brown has had had a fair amount of wear as I use it as a casual boot. The black has had less wear and I should really let it see the light of day more often.

As you say a comfy boot with a good bit of support.
 

fxh

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I think they only came in Black and Chestnut. I only wear them with suits or sport coats In winter. I’ve darkened the Chestnut a lot over the years.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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A bit of off-road site walk so a Dainite.
Barker Nairn 29 last.

20210605_073039.jpg
These are £300 but Herring had mistakenly priced them at £80 on their website. I ordered and they explained the error, but still sold at the advertised price. A good company to do business with.
 

The Shooman

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A bit of off-road site walk so a Dainite.
Barker Nairn 29 last.

View attachment 38625These are £300 but Herring had mistakenly priced them at £80 on their website. I ordered and they explained the error, but still sold at the advertised price. A good company to do business with.

You have good taste in shoos. Yet another classic style, and argyle sox too.

Loake Exeter. 1880 collection. 026 last. 16 years old. Topeyed twice.View attachment 38558
Really grainy leather apparent in photo above. Look at those deep creases.
 
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Sammy Ambrose

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The Loake look grainier in the glare of the spotlight than in normal light. But you are right about the creases. I mistakenly bought a G rather than F width so there's a bit too much shoe for my foot. But very comfortable though.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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Loake Exeter. 026 last. About 14 years old.

20210606_075303.jpg
Argle cotton socks by Byford, an Indian brand I believe. Maybe $2 a pair. Long-lasting and comfortable.
 

Kingstonian

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Yeah I have that in dark brown suede.

A case of a shoe looking better in the real world than it does in advertisements. That’s true of all mine on 026.
I have the Kempton in tan grain on a leather sole. A case of a shoe looking better in advertisements than in the real world.

I have a Berwick chukka in dark brown suede on Dainite. That is far more useful.

Tan footwear has limitations.
 

fxh

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Tan really only works with “streetwear”, I don’t even like it with Smart Casual.
 
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